0:00 used cell with nickel strip still attacjed. 0:20 using side cutters to grab the nickel edge and roll it off the cell. This helps prevent damaging the cell. 0:35 negative end is safest as far as shorting the cell, but also where you can permanently damage if you make a hole there. 0:55 this lefts the spot welds and remnants of nickel which we will clean later. 0:60 positive end has the highest risk of shorting the cell but lowest risk in making a hole when cleaning. 1:40 now using cordless dremel we smooth out the welds, ensuring we don’t make a hole or grind too much metal off. 1:52 just needs to be flat so the new nickel can make good contact and spot weld correctly. 2:27 top we can grind more because a hole here won’t matter but don’t damage the protective ring and expose the (-) can of the cell
so this is what the guy sold me as a brand new battery !! wow how would one tell if they never were to open the pack up? Moilcell my ars! Harvest LG cells and a waste of 1000$ smh .. to everyone buying batteries, as a noob i would reccomend doing some reasearch before jumping into the purchase phase.. lesson learned .. Great Vid!
On the picture he sent you those were harvested but different color so not your battery. If you had these harvested p42a your pack would have been 10x better than that LG pack. The only way to know if he used harvested cells in your pack is the very very carefully remove some cells from your pack and remove the copper/nickel sandwich, then see if any signs of previous spot welds. It might be hard because it looks like he made so many random pattern welds but if you see 6 dots on the nickel and underneath it has 12 dots, it was harvested. Harvesting cells are not always bad but in this case, since those cells are one of the worst 18650’s ever made, there is no upside to harvested cells. If in the other hand he found a pallet of specialty packs with 10x Molicel p28 per pack, new old stock, and used 300 of those to make your battery, it would have been better than all new LG 💩 cells. But yes, most people will never ever see the mistakes or shortcuts taken during battery construction unless it fails and they have to unwrap it. With your new Amorge battery, you still wont ever know if there was some workmanship mistakes, but since it has an ANT bms like ALL REAL EBIKE BATTERIES, you will be able to see if its performing like it should. You will see: if the balance is correct. if the bricks are capacity and internal resistance matched. If the voltage sag is correct for the cells used, number of cells in parallel, and amps drawn. if any cell self-discharge is occurring. If the pack temperature is too high or too low. Thats why anyone who buys a $1000+ battery without a Bluetooth BMS is making a huge mistake.
@@mrcoco3562 in some cases you can do that, but in this case the old nickel is is not smooth and flat. The new nickel will be W-type 5p designed for my specific cell holders. Each individual strip connecting series and parallel cells is 7mm wide and 0.15mm thick. Nickel plated steel. As such the continuous rating per strip is 5a. This is ok for the parallel connections but the series connection for Molicel P42a needs more, so I will be using 2 or even 3 layers. So adding 2-3 layers on top of old mangled nickel is not good. But in my other pack that had one cell die, i just removed that cell and spot welded nickel on it’s fresh surface and then on top of the nickel on adjacent cells.
It won’t rust unless left open to the atmosphere. The main thing is I get a good connection and can get good spot welds without burning more holes in the bottom of the cells. Lol
Yes, thats why I’ve been ignoring them for so long. Lol. After cleaning they should get another rest period to make sure I didn’t tear a hole removing the nickel, then i can slap together a 13s5p pack.
@@MrDeceptacon88 they are dirt cheap now. Lol 18650battery.com/products/molicel-p42a-21700-4200mah-45a-battery This is the cheapest real ebike battery cell you can buy. I was careless the first time thats why I’m harvesting them now. Lol
@MrDeceptacon88 , if you don’t live in USA then you need to buy them from your local dealer but they are still dirt cheap. The real problem is you can’t fit the battery you need in your battery compartment unless it sticks our left and right side 6” each side. Lol Im actually trying to help this other guy find a good battery but his battery compartment is too small for 20x 2170 in a row so he would need 2x 10s packs connected in series, side by side. But its not efficient use of the space.
Nice one, Good to see you second lifing batterys.
Im gona be doing the same in a few weeks.
gota love the battery progects
Yes, hopefully second life will be longer than the first life. Lol
@@imho7250 hahaha true true
0:00 used cell with nickel strip still attacjed.
0:20 using side cutters to grab the nickel edge and roll it off the cell. This helps prevent damaging the cell.
0:35 negative end is safest as far as shorting the cell, but also where you can permanently damage if you make a hole there.
0:55 this lefts the spot welds and remnants of nickel which we will clean later.
0:60 positive end has the highest risk of shorting the cell but lowest risk in making a hole when cleaning.
1:40 now using cordless dremel we smooth out the welds, ensuring we don’t make a hole or grind too much metal off.
1:52 just needs to be flat so the new nickel can make good contact and spot weld correctly.
2:27 top we can grind more because a hole here won’t matter but don’t damage the protective ring and expose the (-) can of the cell
so this is what the guy sold me as a brand new battery !! wow how would one tell if they never were to open the pack up? Moilcell my ars! Harvest LG cells and a waste of 1000$ smh .. to everyone buying batteries, as a noob i would reccomend doing some reasearch before jumping into the purchase phase.. lesson learned .. Great Vid!
On the picture he sent you those were harvested but different color so not your battery. If you had these harvested p42a your pack would have been 10x better than that LG pack.
The only way to know if he used harvested cells in your pack is the very very carefully remove some cells from your pack and remove the copper/nickel sandwich, then see if any signs of previous spot welds. It might be hard because it looks like he made so many random pattern welds but if you see 6 dots on the nickel and underneath it has 12 dots, it was harvested.
Harvesting cells are not always bad but in this case, since those cells are one of the worst 18650’s ever made, there is no upside to harvested cells. If in the other hand he found a pallet of specialty packs with 10x Molicel p28 per pack, new old stock, and used 300 of those to make your battery, it would have been better than all new LG 💩 cells.
But yes, most people will never ever see the mistakes or shortcuts taken during battery construction unless it fails and they have to unwrap it.
With your new Amorge battery, you still wont ever know if there was some workmanship mistakes, but since it has an ANT bms like ALL REAL EBIKE BATTERIES, you will be able to see if its performing like it should.
You will see:
if the balance is correct.
if the bricks are capacity and internal resistance matched.
If the voltage sag is correct for the cells used, number of cells in parallel, and amps drawn.
if any cell self-discharge is occurring.
If the pack temperature is too high or too low.
Thats why anyone who buys a $1000+ battery without a Bluetooth BMS is making a huge mistake.
Why we need to remove those nickel strip?? Why cannot we just overlap 1 nickel strip on top??
@@mrcoco3562 in some cases you can do that, but in this case the old nickel is is not smooth and flat.
The new nickel will be W-type 5p designed for my specific cell holders. Each individual strip connecting series and parallel cells is 7mm wide and 0.15mm thick. Nickel plated steel. As such the continuous rating per strip is 5a. This is ok for the parallel connections but the series connection for Molicel P42a needs more, so I will be using 2 or even 3 layers.
So adding 2-3 layers on top of old mangled nickel is not good.
But in my other pack that had one cell die, i just removed that cell and spot welded nickel on it’s fresh surface and then on top of the nickel on adjacent cells.
Just sand off the high points. Your battery will rust quicker now without the nickel plating
It won’t rust unless left open to the atmosphere. The main thing is I get a good connection and can get good spot welds without burning more holes in the bottom of the cells. Lol
Hi..looks tedious!
Yes, thats why I’ve been ignoring them for so long. Lol.
After cleaning they should get another rest period to make sure I didn’t tear a hole removing the nickel, then i can slap together a 13s5p pack.
@imho7250 molicels cells arent cheap..you should be careful
@@MrDeceptacon88 they are dirt cheap now. Lol
18650battery.com/products/molicel-p42a-21700-4200mah-45a-battery
This is the cheapest real ebike battery cell you can buy.
I was careless the first time thats why I’m harvesting them now. Lol
@imho7250 but its the shipping outside the country and welding that puts me off. Id rather buy EV long pouch cells and connect tab to tab
@MrDeceptacon88 , if you don’t live in USA then you need to buy them from your local dealer but they are still dirt cheap.
The real problem is you can’t fit the battery you need in your battery compartment unless it sticks our left and right side 6” each side. Lol
Im actually trying to help this other guy find a good battery but his battery compartment is too small for 20x 2170 in a row so he would need 2x 10s packs connected in series, side by side. But its not efficient use of the space.