i using nanjing fardriver, but i cannot save the parameter, there is comment "code:50 save permitted". when the ebike shutoff, it always back to the beginning set
Make sure you have the latest app update and that you registered it. You also might need internet connection to save settings. If needed try to bind your phone to your fardriver. And make sure to click save. If you don’t see the save button then it means probably one of the above conditions are not met. Latest app Register it with your email, wait for email with code, enter code Make sure your device is connected to the internet Connect to your fardriver and click bind Make your settings change and clice save. If none this works, let me know.
@@RackaPutraPrandika , how old is your controller? The new ones don’t seem to work with the PC. Mine is about 6 months old and it won’t really connect. Is your PC connecting so you can see all the settings and rpm, amps, etc? Mine would not even show any of those.
@@RackaPutraPrandika , if possible get the Bluetooth module. It’s a bit expensive but worth the money because then you can use the fardriver app display while driving to see whats going on and also make tuning adjustments anytime you want.
Phase offset tells the controller how many electrical between the “A” hall sensor is in relation to the stator coil energized by sending current into phase “A”. To run the motor properly when in “sensored mode” (from 0 rpm up until it can go into FOC), the controller needs to know where the rotor magnets are in relation to the stator coils that are trying to push or pull on those magnets. During manufacturing, there are slots cut in the stator to place 3 hall sensors, and the spacing of these slots if based on how wide the magnets are and if it will use 60 degree or 120 degree commutation. This is the fist setting “AngleDetect” because while they both change states every 60 degrees (6-step commutation), the signal they produce at each step is different and the controller must know this. If the stator has 60 degree slots, it can be changed to 120 degree commutation by using bipolar hall sensors and placing the center hall sensor upside-down, because many controllers can’t support 60 degree commutation, but Fardriver can. Most motors have color coded hall sensors wires and phase wires, but the controller assumes a color-blind person connected the phase wires in a random order as well as the hall sensors, so during auto-learn it will send power to the phase wires which will force the rotor to follow and it can detect the on/off state of each hall sensor. If it senses 60 degree it will set the first setting to 60, if 120 degrees it sets it to 120. Next, since the motor will be running in whatever direction thee controller thinks is forward (A->B, A->C, B->C, B->A, C->A, etc), the controller will automatically determine if the hall sensor are changing A->B->C (correct) or reverse C->B->A (incorrect) and the controller will switch the order with software. When manually pairing a controller you would swap yellow and blue hall wires. Now that both the phases and hall order is ABC, we need to make sure the A hall sensor is telling the controller when to send power from A->B phase. This is what PhaseOffset does. The controller changes this with software. But if manually pairing the motor to the controller, you would advance each hall sensor wire one position in the connector, from ABC to BCA. This causes a 120 degree advance. If still not correct, change to CAB to get 240 degrees advance. Thats the only choices when manually pairing. Ok, so now the hall sensors will report the correct position of the magnets to the controller, and the motor will run perfectly smooth. But the motor might run opposite direction for the way you installed it in your EV. So to fix this with software, the next setting “MotorDirection” is changed from 1 to 0 or 0 to 1. Then the controller, which already gathered information in both directions, will apply the settings for whichever direction you choose. If you are manually pairing, to change direction of the motor you must swap Blue-Green phase wire AND Yellow-Blue hall sensor wires. Then if needed advance or retard all 3 hall sensor wires one slot in the connector to get the phase offset correct again. The PhaseOffset will typically be an even 30 degrees increment (0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270, 300, 330), this is mainly affected by the way the manufacturer marked the wire colors and if the builder matched the colors during assembly (which he should do before running autolearn). You might find some want a few degrees more or less, which means the slots machined in the stator were off a few degrees. This is not usually a big deal, since most cheap controllers don’t allow for correction except +120 degrees or +240 degrees by swapping wires. Bear in mind the hall sensors can only detect 6 positions 60 electrical degrees apart. This is 4 degrees of motor rotation in a 16 pole pair motor. So even if off by a few degrees, the controller will still be able to send power to the correct windings to pull or push on the magnetics to ensure it goes correct direction from 0 rpm start. As soon as the motor gets moving, the magnets passing the stator coils send a strong and reliable signal about magnet position and the hall sensors are ignored. The controller enters FOC (Field Oriented Control). You might see some people trying to manually set this instead of trusting autolearn, and if the motor is absolute 💩, with hall sensor slots machined while drunk, this might help smooth the takeoff a bit, but any change should be done with caution to ensure its not because of another setting like LM or KI in PID settings.
This video was made to demonstrate that setting AN correctly should have no restrictions on other settings, namely ratios in speeds, where the owners controller was misbehaving and not allowing him to male changes unless he set AN to 16 for his hub motor, which is the wrong setting. I changed my normal settings to demonstrate AN should not block changes to ratios in speed. If field weakening is off (WeakResponse:7-none), the motor can only go to its rated rpm, even with the rear tire off the ground. And this also relies on the MaxSpeed rpm setting in parameters to either be set high or bypassed by pressing the “boost button”. My normal settings have my maxspeed rpm at 800 (45 kph) in Parameters and the ratio in speed limit
@@apostolospetridis6038 , its a lot to comprehend and usually doesn’t make sense until you have been playing with the settings for a while and observing the results. There are very few real videos on Fardriver tuning because its so individual based on motor, battery, vehicle, environment the vehicle is riding in, rider weight, and rider preferences. As you see most people just set the controller to “Turn and Burn” (max everything) and later wonder why the motor burned.
Thanks you
i using nanjing fardriver, but i cannot save the parameter, there is comment "code:50 save permitted".
when the ebike shutoff, it always back to the beginning set
Make sure you have the latest app update and that you registered it. You also might need internet connection to save settings. If needed try to bind your phone to your fardriver.
And make sure to click save. If you don’t see the save button then it means probably one of the above conditions are not met.
Latest app
Register it with your email, wait for email with code, enter code
Make sure your device is connected to the internet
Connect to your fardriver and click bind
Make your settings change and clice save.
If none this works, let me know.
@@imho7250 oh im sorry, i used PC program, because there is no bluetooth modul, only USB modul.
@@RackaPutraPrandika , how old is your controller? The new ones don’t seem to work with the PC. Mine is about 6 months old and it won’t really connect.
Is your PC connecting so you can see all the settings and rpm, amps, etc? Mine would not even show any of those.
@@RackaPutraPrandika , if possible get the Bluetooth module. It’s a bit expensive but worth the money because then you can use the fardriver app display while driving to see whats going on and also make tuning adjustments anytime you want.
Дякую ! Хочу запитати ,що це за параметр phase offset ,за що відповідає , і що від нього залежить?
Phase offset tells the controller how many electrical between the “A” hall sensor is in relation to the stator coil energized by sending current into phase “A”.
To run the motor properly when in “sensored mode” (from 0 rpm up until it can go into FOC), the controller needs to know where the rotor magnets are in relation to the stator coils that are trying to push or pull on those magnets.
During manufacturing, there are slots cut in the stator to place 3 hall sensors, and the spacing of these slots if based on how wide the magnets are and if it will use 60 degree or 120 degree commutation. This is the fist setting “AngleDetect” because while they both change states every 60 degrees (6-step commutation), the signal they produce at each step is different and the controller must know this. If the stator has 60 degree slots, it can be changed to 120 degree commutation by using bipolar hall sensors and placing the center hall sensor upside-down, because many controllers can’t support 60 degree commutation, but Fardriver can.
Most motors have color coded hall sensors wires and phase wires, but the controller assumes a color-blind person connected the phase wires in a random order as well as the hall sensors, so during auto-learn it will send power to the phase wires which will force the rotor to follow and it can detect the on/off state of each hall sensor. If it senses 60 degree it will set the first setting to 60, if 120 degrees it sets it to 120.
Next, since the motor will be running in whatever direction thee controller thinks is forward (A->B, A->C, B->C, B->A, C->A, etc), the controller will automatically determine if the hall sensor are changing A->B->C (correct) or reverse C->B->A (incorrect) and the controller will switch the order with software. When manually pairing a controller you would swap yellow and blue hall wires.
Now that both the phases and hall order is ABC, we need to make sure the A hall sensor is telling the controller when to send power from A->B phase. This is what PhaseOffset does. The controller changes this with software. But if manually pairing the motor to the controller, you would advance each hall sensor wire one position in the connector, from ABC to BCA. This causes a 120 degree advance. If still not correct, change to CAB to get 240 degrees advance. Thats the only choices when manually pairing.
Ok, so now the hall sensors will report the correct position of the magnets to the controller, and the motor will run perfectly smooth. But the motor might run opposite direction for the way you installed it in your EV. So to fix this with software, the next setting “MotorDirection” is changed from 1 to 0 or 0 to 1. Then the controller, which already gathered information in both directions, will apply the settings for whichever direction you choose. If you are manually pairing, to change direction of the motor you must swap Blue-Green phase wire AND Yellow-Blue hall sensor wires. Then if needed advance or retard all 3 hall sensor wires one slot in the connector to get the phase offset correct again.
The PhaseOffset will typically be an even 30 degrees increment (0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270, 300, 330), this is mainly affected by the way the manufacturer marked the wire colors and if the builder matched the colors during assembly (which he should do before running autolearn).
You might find some want a few degrees more or less, which means the slots machined in the stator were off a few degrees. This is not usually a big deal, since most cheap controllers don’t allow for correction except +120 degrees or +240 degrees by swapping wires.
Bear in mind the hall sensors can only detect 6 positions 60 electrical degrees apart. This is 4 degrees of motor rotation in a 16 pole pair motor. So even if off by a few degrees, the controller will still be able to send power to the correct windings to pull or push on the magnetics to ensure it goes correct direction from 0 rpm start.
As soon as the motor gets moving, the magnets passing the stator coils send a strong and reliable signal about magnet position and the hall sensors are ignored. The controller enters FOC (Field Oriented Control).
You might see some people trying to manually set this instead of trusting autolearn, and if the motor is absolute 💩, with hall sensor slots machined while drunk, this might help smooth the takeoff a bit, but any change should be done with caution to ensure its not because of another setting like LM or KI in PID settings.
Друже ! Дякую тобі за детальну інформацію💪
Isnt it dangerous for the motor to work on 100% at all rpm?
This video was made to demonstrate that setting AN correctly should have no restrictions on other settings, namely ratios in speeds, where the owners controller was misbehaving and not allowing him to male changes unless he set AN to 16 for his hub motor, which is the wrong setting. I changed my normal settings to demonstrate AN should not block changes to ratios in speed.
If field weakening is off (WeakResponse:7-none), the motor can only go to its rated rpm, even with the rear tire off the ground. And this also relies on
the MaxSpeed rpm setting in parameters to either be set high or bypassed by pressing the “boost button”.
My normal settings have my maxspeed rpm at 800 (45 kph) in Parameters and the ratio in speed limit
@@imho7250 thanks gor the anwer man!!that was a hole lesson for me!!!
@@apostolospetridis6038 , its a lot to comprehend and usually doesn’t make sense until you have been playing with the settings for a while and observing the results. There are very few real videos on Fardriver tuning because its so individual based on motor, battery, vehicle, environment the vehicle is riding in, rider weight, and rider preferences.
As you see most people just set the controller to “Turn and Burn” (max everything) and later wonder why the motor burned.