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@vladimirminkovich8797 around here with an inspection calling the most popular electrical contractors probably around 2k. Materials were around $300 this was a favor for a friend.

@@gotchaplumber huge window AC, those have really bood blowers, 10k BTU or around there. Also those stovetop microwaves with the hood blowers

Specifically from a 240v window ac unit

Wiring may get confusing sometimes. Awesome video!

@@gotchaplumber thank you

The carburetor is awful to remove on these, especially with the huge dumb air box in the way. You need to remove the air box first, then all the cables going to the carbs, then loosen the hose clamps and whack on the carb rack with a rubber mallet until it gets loose. Work it out with much effort. It's tricky. Don't forget to shut off your gas and drain the carbs with the drain on the bottom.

@@crazyDIYguy I removed everything and watched the three screws that you tightened and there is one I have a crusher from these three and I tried to move the big gear with my hand and it was very heavy and it only spins to the right ➡️ Does this indicate good and I can fix it ?

@@wal8610 if it spins to the right it's loose, not good. Keep spinning it to the right until it's very tight

@@TheCindy05 I can't visualize this rn but typically you take vise grips and grab the spring, pulling it back into its holes. You're going to have to take off your whole top cover first to cover that goes over the rear of the tractor.

🤷‍♂️

Okay that wraps it up, fellas.

Do you have a video on the subject of grounding service equipment especially upstream and downstream of the first point of disconnect? I would like to learn once and for all. Thanks.

There are two wires running to that ground rod. I think it's the dual bond that's the problem. If you're already grounded inside then adding an additional ground outside is incorrect. The rest of what he said highlights this exact point.

@@ronaldkovacs7080 Please review NEC 250.24 for the requirements. No specific video available.

My inspectors fail us in this jurisdiction if the meter is grounded and the main disconnect is inside. Doesn't matter what the NEC they are authority having jurisdiction and they can overrule it.

I never saw your comment, That's what I was thinking too. Just buy them out.

@@bradshannon862 probably low on oil, I think all of mine have made that noise though. Maybe the viscosity has broken down over the years too and you need new oil. Might help it

@@dandearman2871 I'm seeing my inspector this week and I'm going to ask him about your exact point you made there. I promise I'll comment what he says

In the meantime my guess would be because it's on the "line side" and not the "load side". The load side begins where the first main disconnect starts, whether that's in your meter socket or at the main panel inside (like in the video).

@@crazyDIYguy Those are just words. The electricity doesn't care what "side" it is on. Perhaps the enclosure is already internally bonded to the neutral?

@@CubbyTech wherever your main disconnect is you ground. So in the video the main disconnect is in the basement, therefore we don't ground the meter socket. If the main disconnect was outside at the meter socket, we'd run all our grounding to those. Then we would have 4-wire "SER" feeding the breaker box from the meter base, the 4-wire ser has a ground wire so the panels would be grounded that way.

But in my exact situation in this video, the meter base isn't grounded at all. Just the breaker box in the basement, that has all the grounds going to it, from the gas, water meter, ground rods, etc. I'm going to make a more thorough video on it.

@@thomasdalton1508 definitely one of the potential problems, the other main problem with grounding that specific setup are parallel paths for the neutral to travel if we grounded both meter base and main disconnect/panel inside.

@@crazyDIYguy That's only a problem if you use too thin a wire for the grounding, right? In the UK, we have minimum thickness requirements for wires that could become alternative neutrals (we mostly use TN-C-S/PME so pretty much everything can end up being a neutral path, so it is a significant concern).

So if I am seeing this video correctly the is connected both at the meter socket and going into the main breaker panel. It can be either but not both unless AHJ or utility requires one or the other. Only created neutral by grounding once.

@@SRCardow1 You can't ground only the meter, surely, or you'll have no ground for the rest of the installation?

Neutral at the top connection failed, his circuits started relying on the ground to earth (which is weak to begin with for adequate neutral). That failed quickly so it found a ground through the aluminum siding which led to the cable companies ground. Aluminum started corroding and the "substitute" neutral started arching heating up the siding. Eventually causing the wood to smolder in the wall for days without us noticing. By the time I noticed the inside of the wall was gone and glowing coals. Saved it with a chainsaw and a hose. This house in the vid is aluminum too, neutral top connections fail constantly, it would easily start arching through that meter socket, slowly heating up the siding and....

@@peacefulbrsea I love the channel name. 👌😆

17.8 or 4.7 gallons

@@kenbowes4130 lol thanks for the advice. That's about as far as I've gotten with that bike. It's been sitting since I've posted the video. I hope to finish it one day. I'm just so busy with other crap.

But when I do finish it, I will keep the key in the pocket thing in mind. 👍😆

I always recommend going overhead. That way it is always accessible. Water penetrates the underground wires inevitably. Every single time.

Omg I'm sorry 🤦🤦🤦 that sucks

Does your big clog have play in it mine moves forward and back

Because that would make too much sense my friend. 😆

@@crazyDIYguylol it’s all about making videos 😢

It goes to an ignition advance module, vacuum advance module underneath the gas tank somewhere.

It's a little black thing

to sensor VOES (Vacuum-operated electric switch).

@@Magnum.318if that vacuum hose isn’t connected to the veos will the carburetor not be able to get gasoline from the tank? I can use a squirt bottle to fill my new mikuni knock off but when I use the petcock with the tank about a gallon of gas no fuel is getting to the carburetor. The engine will run fine with a squeeze bottle just dangling and not being squeezed at all. What does that switch do? What can I do to bypass it if the switch is missing? I am asking this because many years ago I had a Dyna wide glide and, I think, unless the switch had vacuum it wouldn’t get gas. Again, I think. I am not sure because it’s been a long time ago and I’m getting too old to remember shit like this

@@MicheluceRizzuto Dear friend, this system switches the ignition angle depending on the engine load, measures the vacuum after the throttle valve. If the VOES sensor is missing, the tube must be blocked. Without it, the dynamics will deteriorate, you can set the ignition to a slightly earlier flash. This is not related to the fuel supply. Perhaps you have a fuel valve installed that depends on the vacuum, it may not work correctly if the tube is open. You can try to plug the tube with a suitable bolt. And - Dyna is a great bike!

I just pulled mine off or cut the tube. Sorry I responded so late

@@crazyDIYguy No problem and thanks. I still haven't been able to get my Craftsman riding mower to move after trying everything. Porbably gonna just sell it for parts or repair.

@@slhines7 when I was filling mine I had the back jacked up, The mower was running, and I was going in forward and reverse and it would keep taking more and more oil.

I guess the keyway to the rear tires might be sheared off or missing causing the shaft to just spin inside the tire. Or it could be that rear drive belt not gripping or not on the pulley that drives the whole rear end pump

@@crazyDIYguy I double checked both keyways which are still instact. It is just locked up and won't move no matter what. Sometimes it will be free and can be pushed but never actually move when put into gears while running.

If it is like mine in this video with that forward and back handle and I was in your situation, I'd just drill a slot or a half moon type of catch for the lever shaft in forward. Other than that maybe change the fluid in the rear axle see if that helps. Maybe thicker. Might depend on fluid pressure to stay in forward and reverse position.

It's got guides on the back of the blade, pulleys that the back of the band pushes against. The tires are tilted in a way that the band is always trying to push backwards instead of falling off forwards if you understand what I mean.

So instead of the band walking off forward, it just pushes backwards against the guides

Yeah I used flux core, it was e71 tgs

Look up "fish plating" and make sure you do that. It's like a diamond shaped patch on the back of your weld or on the other side of the frame that you're welding

It should as long as the key doesn't have a chip or it's not a battery type key

@@crazyDIYguy when I got this bike, the guy had lost the key for over a year so he tried hotwiring it. He twisted all those wires together. so trying to start it what exactly would that fry?

@@DivergentSoul check fuses, might have fried the ECU, you can probably pick another one up on eBay cheap.

When I was young I worked at a auto body shop and my boss said unibodys were made of peanut butter. Lol