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@@captainvenom4377 it’s possible that your car has more than one issue on different parts of it. One scanner may read only engine related codes and other other may read both engine and transmission related codes

My wife’s Cooper also has both this code and the evaporator leak.

@@theftworthrealtor everyone wants to go change out that leak detection pump right from the get go, but on the newer cars they hardly ever fail! I actually have a more in depth video coming soon!

@@travismachado4406 in theory yes, in practice no. Drilling rotors in particular is the least effective for performance gains as the holes in the drilled rotors only cool the metal around just around the holes, the non drilled areas remain quite hot… meaning uneven expansion and contraction of the rotors (warping and cracking results). They also have less heat capacity as there is less metal to heat up, so they over heat faster, this also means they cool faster yes but that means nothing when your brake fluid is absorbing that heat… and that won’t cool fast! Look at race cars and see what they use, they use primarily plain rotors and sometimes slotted. The slots on slotted rotors allow for the brake pad surface to be cleaned off, they are noisy and can make brake pad life shorter. With plain pads, pad material builds up and can prevent full contact with the rotor surface on plain rotors, this can also lead to pad deposit spots on the rotor face which cause pulsation/vibration in the wheel. The upside is smooth, quiet performance, (as long as everything is working properly) with long service life. These rotors are the least likely to warp

@@travismachado4406 but don’t take my word for it! Here’s an engineer’s take th-cam.com/video/EIa6_C1B6UQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kE4uqHEUkegwQiDn

@@Yeniceri550 sorry forgot to mention that! It’s an 8mm Allen

@@dariusGarage thank you, great channel btw,,subscribed👍

@@mikle65 not that I know of, it’s too detailed and fiddly to fix one of these subwoofers, much easier to just replace

@@willowm.7475 could be that you installed a defective pcv or something fell into the turbo while you were performing the service

@@dariusGarage They change my hose becouse it Was broken this one is going from air filter and unplug the PCV that going in ,and than it Was started .

@@willowm.7475 assuming that you changed the turbo inlet pipe… you likely had a leaky turbo inlet pipe… if that was the case then it is still possible that you had a defective pcv all this time but it was venting/sucking pressure into/from the atmosphere without you knowing. To check this remove your oil cap with the engine running and see if the sound persists, if the sound does not change with with cap on or off then the PCV is good, does it change with RPM? Like I said before something may have fallen into the turbo during the service, remove the inlet and inspect the turbos for damage.

@@dariusGarage I take off the Oil cap nothing change in sound

@@willowm.7475 PCV is likely not your issue, check your turbos

@@PowerfulQuotesBible good point, the only thing I checked after the replacement of the sensors was that the code didn’t return, not really something that most people would care for. I didn’t investigate further into what the numbers look like after the replacement because why invest more time into something that’s no longer a concern? Better spend that time and effort on something else that’s actually broken. But I can understand why you would want those numbers, for your own comparison. As for the idle, it’s much improved, the engine is so smooth now, very happy.

@@rexpontiusful wow that’s pretty hot! All testing here was done cruising until constant temperatures were achieved, slow down to first gear speeds, and then a full send.

@@koppen89 if brake dust is your main priority I’d say go with akebono Euro ceramic, they’re seriously squeaky on the first stop when it’s cold. But I have yet to see a less dusty brake pad. Relative to other pads I find that I’d call these a medium dust pad, trust me there’s way more dusty pads out there

@@zanewarren2774 I wish! Unfortunately my region doesn’t have E

@@88adrian25 I would say your problem lies elsewhere. These should be the first thing to check/replace when experiencing excessive oil consumption. The first thing I’d check is to see if you have any codes stored on your DMEs. Go with a professional high end scan tool, not just a generic one. Address those problems. If you still feel like it’s lacking power even though it’s running smoothly (it should be so smooth you don’t feel the engine running), you should look at the turbocharging system, make sure your turbos are boosting properly, these cars rely heavily on them working right. Essentially make sure they are getting to their 22 psi rating. Also make sure the car is not overheating as they’ll go into fail safe modes if they detect overheating, check your coolant levels when the car is cold. These are complex engines and there are many things to look out for. There’s no shame in taking these cars to a mechanic who knows their way around these engines… should you not know how to fix it.

@@dariusGarage thank you!! So much!! I appreciate the feedback!! I will start off with those tips.

@@shpendiahmeti9228 it depends on your country and region’s fuel quality, if you use fuels with lots of contaminants then you might want to change it as often as every other oil change (16k kms). On the other hand, if you use clean fuel then nothing will cause the filter to clog up, you could probably get away with never changing it, I’ve seen it first hand on my dads diesel BMW with 320k kms, he’s never changed it and the vehicle still runs like a champ. If you want to be on the safe side to see how good your fuel quality is, change the filter and inspect how full it is by opening up the filter like I did, and then you can make an estimate how long it’ll take to get blocked and need changing

@@dariusGaragethank you! It’s been 147k miles and havnt changed it yet - however I have been going to the same gas station 90% of the time.

@@shpendiahmeti9228 at that mileage it’s tempting to check it out that’s for sure :) but it sounds like everything is fine in your area and your filter won’t be too bad.

@@kasmiester8 yes, I thought I put it in this video but I guess not haha! It’s under the bank 2 turbo inlet(driver side North America). Once you remove it it’s right there. You can use a brass t fitting or you can opt for URO aluminum y fitting with new insulated lines

@dariusGarage Sounds good. Would I need to remove the other turbo inlet? Also what about the air filter housing, do you think I'd be able to leave that in place and just unbolt the Driver side (US) turbo inlet? Along with the V band on the charge pipe.

@@kasmiester8 you might be able to but honestly it’s not a big deal to take either of them out, taking the air box out will make taking the inlet out easier. They are fragile so be careful when removing it, you may want to order new red/orange seals for the inlet. The charge pipe will also possibly get in the way of the screw for the inlet. Remove the turbo to charge pipe clamp and flex the charge pipe out of the way, then access will be easy

Post cat is 15167 (Bosch) or 11787526262 (oem) www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/o2-sensor-pre-cat/11787614322~bos/ Upstream (pre cat) is Bosch 17187 or 11787576673 (oem) www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/oxygen-sensor-priced-each/17187~bos/

@@pjefsquad tell me about it! It’s a 4 seat car but mine has always had at least 4 passengers plus me the driver😂

We tapped into the #8 ground to create #13. We also had to tap into the #4 to create #7

Just the front 2, for the back we were going to upgrade it to M5 brakes as well (larger rotor and M5 calipers) but ended up trading in the car before we got to it. The back brakes don't look that great even when upgraded as they are just a single piston design like any other car, just painted blue with a larger rotor. Its hard to upgrade the back to something nicer as the caliper must also have e brake functionality and there are no pretty off the shelf BMW rear calipers with E brake built in.

Thank you and hope the job goes smoothly for you!

@@dariusGarage thanks!! Do you recall if part # URO 11537578687PRM came with the cinch crimps or did you buy them separately? They look like 1/2 inch cinch crimps

@@Thomasz126it comes exactly as pictured on the website. I unpackaged that part at around the 18 minute mark, it does come pre clamped and I had to unclamp it.

@@oluskloc great question! The simple answer is no, I was simply looking for a change in 1/4 mile times, recently I retried the 1/4 mile again under more similar conditions to my initial test. It did improve by 0.2-0.3 seconds and a 2mph improvement. It’s more worthwhile to get a tune first and if that’s not enough then you can try these as well as other supporting mods

At that time it was likely me filling diesel with a jerrycan and spilling a little on the driveway. Nowadays it definitely leaks oil from those intercooler pipes as one of the turbos is going bad 😁!

@@Kzimkaz self purge, fill coolant to the top, install cap. Start the car and get it up to operating temperature, let it cool off, then top up again. It should be good to go from that point according to BMW manual but I had to repeat the process once or twice after that.

@@mjtfield yeah my earlier videos I still didn’t have sound worked out too well, my more recent videos should be better, I’ll get back to you on your other questions! Thanks for watching !

Hello! It’s been some time so I’m not 100% sure, however if I recall correctly, we just pulled down on the front section with the pseudo vents to release spring loaded clips and then we pulled the unit towards us. Then we just unplugged the cables. Hope that helps!

Thank you! Means a lot to me :)

@@dariusGarage You're welcome. I know 😊

I’m the same way ! My dad however is another story, he has always said that I’m a wuss when it comes to working with them, and so far (knock on wood) he’s been right :) that’s why we let him deal with them haha

@@dariusGarage I'm sure that if the car isnt "on", the air bags wouldn't deploy. I have the same car but in petro. Just recently cleared the drain port with a tube and water bottle. My button to open the roof requires giggling and holding it down to open and close. Sounds like a contact issue. Probably needs removal and cleaning. Wish you showed how to remove the center roof control.. But looks like everything else, pop out and disconnect.

@@MLeung-vl7we or if you had leakage issues maybe the switch is corroded and not functioning properly, may warrant a replacement of the switch

I can’t wait to get my front bumper! They are proving difficult to find locally :)

@@dariusGarage I ordered mine online, an OEM New. Brought it to m local paint shop and they did an excellent job color matching to my mineral white pearl. But yea, the front MSport bumper really ties it all in.

If you replaced it with a non original component then most certainly, otherwise you likely have issues elsewhere.

At that time I found a forum post on the subject and took a screenshot of that…However, the picture was actually from a BMW official document called a “Technical Training” on the N63TU specifically. You can download/read it here f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1985393&d=1549407521

@@dariusGarage Thanks! Do you have anything S63TU related?

nevermind.. I found it :) the same way as yours

Thank you! These are the parts you can use for this DIY, you can buy them off Rockauto for a fairly affordable price. One of the parts URO doesn’t make/isn’t stocked by Rockauto so unfortunately a Rein alternative is listed. URO 11537578687PRM URO 11537577014PRM URO 11537577013 REIN CHT0684

@@dariusGaragewhats the link?

@@BriceGibson unfortunately RockAuto won’t let you link parts or your cart. Just copy paste the part numbers I provided in the search box.

18mm did the trick for me 💪🏼

There’s a few different screws bits that you’ll need for the job. For the fabric panel you will need a Phillips for the plastic expansion clips, you’ll also need a T20 for 2 screws. For the light itself I mention that I used a T20 at 3:12

Best of luck with your search! A used cassette is most likely the way to go, and even that will cost you close to $1000 if it’s like the X5. I would check out if there’s anyone dismantling one of those cars near you at a wrecking yard or private. Repairing the sunroof will cost you less than replacing it as shipping will be expensive, but repairing it is tedious especially if you’re fixing a snapped cable, this means more time without a car… there’s pros and cons.

@@dariusGarage a german company called BMS Burkhart repairs BMW sunroofs for less than 1000$ in a single day or they sell repair kits, but not for the X1/F45/F46 who share the same pano sunroof. I sent them an email to know if they could send me the parts or repair it but I had no reply. I could totally cross France and Germany to have my pano roof repaired by them.

I was also launching at around 1000 -1800 rpm… but that doesn’t tell the whole story. I didn’t have my foot to the floor like I was supposed to for launch control, plus I didn’t give it much time to build boost. This was done to give it a fair comparison of when I went last time as that’s how I launched then. Furthermore I still have the factory aluminum Guibo and broken differential bushings (like last time) and I feared something would snap if I launched too hard.