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Just tighten down on the kingpin and that will fix it

No problem. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Thankfully, it was a pretty simple one.

Thank you! I've got a face for radio and a voice for silent film, so you and I both are better off having me stay quiet. :)

Yes, it did. Works beautifully now.

Thanks for watching!

Heh...I must have skipped some of the footage from that in the interest of only showing the interesting bits and not wasting peoples' time, but I mashed grease into every nook and cranny of those things before installing them. I just did it manually rather than using a bearing packing tool - I don't repack bearings often enough to justify the mess of a bearing packer. The driver's side inner bearing did need to be cleaned and repacked, but it was previously full of grease as well - it was just older grease. And that's one big advantage to filling the hubcaps with grease (that's actually somewhat debated as to whether you should do that or not) - if you fill them with grease, it acts as a giant grease cup and pushes grease through both the inner and outer wheel bearings as you tighten it down. If you notice, I didn't fully tighten down the hubcaps. That's because by that point, it was already squeezing grease through both bearings and out of the inner seals. Kind of works as a bearing packer tool to fill any additional spaces I didn't get by hand. Some people don't think it's necessary, but I would totally recommend doing it that way, per the factory instructions. Even for rear ones where it wouldn't really push through into the bearings, it still acts as an emergency grease reservoir for if you need some while you're out on the road. But it's definitely helpful for the fronts.

Might I suggest an improvement for future videos, grab some b roll footage of what you're working on and what you've done, and the car itself. there's no shame in handheld footy

Thanks! I actually have a *lot* more footage of this process. Takes me forever to make these videos because I try to edit it down to just the most interesting stuff (or rather the stuff that I feel would be most helpful for someone else trying to do the same thing on their own vehicle) so I'm not wasting everyone's time. Would you rather I made these longer and included more of the process?

¡Gracias por mirar!

I don't seem to have that problem with mine, but I think part of that is because I use oil instead of grease. Since oil's a Newtonian fluid (not just shear-thinning like grease), it seems to flow down through the spindle pretty well. It flows from the flip-top oil cup down the central hole in the top of the kingpin, out through the cross-drilled hole and into the narrowed slot of the kingpin where the upper bushing is, and then down the sides of the kingpin through the internal cavity of the spindle before reaching the bottom bushing. But I could see that not working at all if you were using grease or if your clearances were a little too tight.

Ah, that would make sense. I figured it wasn't original, but hadn't considered that it be a blind insert and not go all the way through. Thanks for the pointer!

Thanks for the suggestion for premiering. I've never done that before and just turned that on for my next video that's going up tomorrow.

Absolutely, this would be really difficult without a lathe and pretty much impossible to do well without a good micrometer to get the press fits right. The mill you could do without for this project, and you could, I imagine, do nearly everything else in this video with a battery-powered drill and a hand file, using it as a sort of rudimentary lathe. But goodness gracious would it ever be difficult. Thanks for watching!

It's been years since I bought it, but I believe it's the 3378OS from Lang's or T-3300-OS from Snyder's. They appear to be the same thing, although I don't think the Lang's one includes gaskets, so if you buy from there, be sure to add one for each side of the screen.

Good idea. So far, since adding the electrical tape, I haven't had any further issues with it.

Thanks!

This Power Wagon doesn't have a winch, and my other one's winch is not yet operational. So I can't answer that. Sorry!

Thanks!

Probably some bolt on some component that's really hard to get to without it, although I don't know what that would be. I know this truck has had its engine rebuilt by one of the previous owners. My assumption is that it has something to do with that, because as far as I can tell there's no "regular maintenance" purpose for it.

@@notsmartenoughworkshop Thanks ..I have a 55 power wagon and learning from you...keep making them...thanks John

It's been a while, and I don't remember exactly. But I think it was around $1,200 for the rebuild plus I had to buy another transfer case from another source as a parts donor. It was a lot more expensive than I expected, but they did a great job.

@@notsmartenoughworkshop That was very helpful. Thank you. Great video thank you for sharing.

Customized version of the one on their website for additional durability.

Weller Truck Parts

I should note, too, that I don't usually list my suppliers because I am not sponsored and intend to remain that way. I want to make sure this channel remains unbiased. But in my honest opinion, this was more expensive to have rebuilt than I expected, but Weller did an excellent job and I have been quite happy with the results.

I'm not sure I'd take what I have on my truck as gospel. I'll try and remember to check my other Power Wagon but I get the feeling that the ashtray was added on later. The mounting seemed more unprofessional than what I'd expect if it was factory and both the paint and mounting screws were different. I don't smoke, but it's old enough to be part of the history of the truck, so on it stays, a relic of a bygone era. And as far as those recalcitrant screws go, there was much struggling (including, as I recall, stubby screwdrivers) that didn't make it on camera. Just getting those screws loose involved many attempts spaced several months apart as I worked on other things. The video's the culmination of probably 6-8 months of failures. Several applications of penetrating oil and weeks of patience didn't help. Manual impact driver didn't work. Couldn't get them out with screw extractors. Considered heat but there was too much flammable material around them. I don't remember what all else I tried, but they were about as close to permanently bonded to the base metal as possible without being welded. Thankfully the cordless Dremel could reach in there and make new slots for them that were good enough for the manual impact driver or I'd probably still be stuck on that project today.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks! Glad you liked it. This process worked quite well.

Those gauges were already on the truck when I bought it, and to be honest, I'd rather they weren't there. Once I get the stock gauge cluster working, I will likely end up removing them. They just look way too modern to me. But as a temporary workaround, they're not bad. It would be difficult to show where the oil pressure gauge actually connects since it's buried quite deeply and is even a little tough to see in person. But if you look around the 5:47 mark, you can see what looks like an off-white wire going behind the oil filter housing and just below the ignition coil. That's the Sunbeam oil pressure gauge line - you can see some oil in it further up the line. It connects to a fitting below there, near the distributor. Not sure what that fitting was originally for since that oil line's the only thing connected to it now. As for where the other gauges connect, I really don't know. The whole truck is a rat's nest of years of bodged-together wiring modifications and I haven't quite worked it all out yet. Sorry!

The frame was already on the truck when I bought it. I'd say your best bet on that might be to call Vintage Power Wagons and see if they have a used one. The glass and weatherstripping came from DCM Classics. They might also have a used frame.

I don't usually like to say who suppliers are, because although I'm not sponsored I have worked closely with at least one company to reproduce parts for me which they didn't already offer and have at times bought preproduction parts at a discount to test out. In this case, though, I don't mind saying (because I paid more than normal price because I wanted some things a little bit different than stock) - this came from DCM Classics. The seat is constructed with foam instead of springs and is substantially harder than the original seat, but it still functions just fine, and it's still better than only having one seat for two Power Wagons. Like I said, though, this is similar but not exactly the same as their stock seats. I asked them to use French seams for everything (for durability) and add the orange piping at the top. The shape's also a little different, but that's mainly due to trying to literally build my not-great-quality sketch for how I wanted the seams, although it came out great anyway so I don't mind. Suffice it to say they're very good with custom work if you have something specific in mind.

l used a stock import p/u seat from a 70's datsun any of the small p/u seats are a good fit...

Awesome! Best of luck with your restoration! These are great old trucks, and the more of them that can be saved from rusting away, the better!

What year is your Power Wagon? The ones prior to 1957 used a different transmission without synchros and would be a bit different than the 1967 model in this video.

Thank you! They turned out quite nice in the end - everything works very smoothly.

They like to hide pretty much everywhere. :) That little gem came with the truck. It's stored inside now, so it's unlikely to accumulate more of them. But I see no reason to get rid of it - mud daubers are cool little critters.

Thanks! I'm sure someone who knows what they're doing could do much better, but I can't say I'm too unhappy with it having never done lock wire before this. :)

This one was a little rusty on the outside, but was in much worse shape on the inside. I had to buy another NP200 for the shop to use for donor parts to rebuild this one - several of the hard parts (gears, shafts) were in such bad shape that they couldn't be reused. It worked okay before the rebuild, but it works fantastically well now. Well worth the time, effort, and expense to have it rebuilt.

I was really surprised to find such a close match! It had a long tail I had to cut off, but other than that, it was nearly identical.

I usually try to refrain from mentioning companies (again, #NotSponsored) but this one was from DCM Classics. As far as I know, I believe all of the civilian Power Wagons used heavy paperboard gloveboxes whereas the metal ones would be appropriate for the military versions like the M37. As such, this replacement (which seems to be some sort of a paper fiber/plastic composite) should be pretty close to correct.

Yes, this one will be different than yours. And, yes, it should be original-style for this model year. The late-model ones used a dual-circuit brake system, so the master cylinder's different. In fact, when I had to replace the master cylinder because the old one didn't work and was not repairable, the replacement was available via my local big-box auto parts store. It seems to be exactly the same as what's on a 1967 Dodge D200 some relatives of mine have. As far as the plate goes, when I asked at one of the reproduction parts suppliers I use they had round cover plates for earlier Power Wagons but not later ones, which is why I ended up making my own. (Side note: I try not to mention companies by name, but if you need one of these plates, it's not like the Power Wagon reproduction parts industry's very large, so you should have no trouble figuring out which one it was.) There were other goofy parts of the way the brake system was put together on this truck when I got it, which I corrected before I started this channel, but the brakes as they are right now should be pretty close to the way they were from stock. And as far as I can tell, the hole for this plate should be stock, since the floor plate is flat around the hole instead of having the raised diamond pattern. Thanks for asking!

Thanks! Glad you like it. That's exactly what I was hoping to do with this channel: show people that this stuff just isn't all that hard. It isn't scary, it doesn't require a zillion specialized tools, and you can do this, too. If a novice klutz like me can do it, anyone can! Good luck on your project! Just take it bit by bit, system by system, and restoring one of these isn't too bad. I had to completely redo the wheels/tires, entire brake system, entire fuel system, almost everything in the powertrain at this point, various electrical gremlins, body work, etc. I've still got a lot to go, but the key is to always keep in mind that even if it isn't running yet, you've gotten it one step closer, and if you've done a good job with your fixes the truck will be far more patient with the restoration than you will be.

Thanks! I don't do voiceover on these because, frankly, I've got a face for radio and a voice for silent films. :)

Thanks again!

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it - pulling the transmission was much more intimidating than it was actually difficult, so I'm hoping this video shows that it just isn't that scary of a project. I'm really looking forward to driving this thing with all the drivetrain fixes! Still have more repairs to do before then, but it'll be a nice solid truck when it's all done. And I use the term "done" loosely - with an old piece of equipment, you're never really "done" fixing it! :)