วีดีโอ

You got it!

Glad it was helpful!

Most welcome!

Yep! Setting up a new workshop space at the moment here in South Wales; some food for thought for sure!

Welp…they’re both in the video…and both recorded on the same day, at the same time, from the same distance, with the same mic…so… ;-), I guess you’d best watch to find out.

Or - even though it was a year ago I’m glad you did post it. Cool guy.

I don't know man...by those dates I'm 18,179 years ahead of schedule...

Send those questions along in advance if you'd like Si!

Yeah good idea will do.

Damn straight!

I think it's fair to say Tristan is pretty clever; his setup is really inspiring and as I fit out my new unit in South Wales these next few months you can bet I'm taking some inspiration from the experience gained in just a couple of visits to WheelworksNZ :-)

And I you Dave :-). I've just got hold of an Islandix tool set myself and thus far am getting used to it quite quickly :-D!

NZ is geographically isolated which is sometimes a challenge but often times that distance means we solve problems in different ways. Living on a small (beautiful) island on the bottom of the world certainly has its advantages :-) -Tristan

Elvis did have to stay home for this one ;-)!

Welcome aboard!

Meeting Tristan has left me with a thirst to learn more about electronics and tool building that's for sure!

My pleasure Aaron and stoked that it's helped! Whilst it would be ideal to polish off your wheels before the BLO dries it's pretty slow drying tbh and even if it does dry this isn't going to cause you any problems if you turn your nipples again; one of the joys of the substance and you could always consider topping up a little if you felt it was neccesary but I wouldn't worry about it; a quick google suggets BLO will take 24-72 hours to dry when used on wood; you've likely got longer :-).

Save making a fairly long written post I'm just going to say that a future video is already planned on exactly this subject 👍. Theoretically whichever spokes are handling braking or driving forces from the hub should be outbound: in the real world? Dwwfy 😉

Nice one Benny :-).

I appreciate that hugely Randall and would love to have you on the Patreon; we do AMA's and I'm very happy to chat in a bit more depth on the tech side of things with members on there too so please do shoot me a line if you ever need anything! Whereabout in Japan are you based?

@@RyanBuildsWheels Thanks for that... I look forward to joining... and I may take you up on that help with tech side of things, too... I am based out Nagano prefecture in the North Alps... So, heaps of amazing riding both on and off road. Hit me up if you ever fancy a visit to Japan... Talk to you in the new year. Kind regards, Randall

Gap at the hub with a dishing tool: move the rim in the opposite direction (i.e. gap on the left, move rim to right) Gap at the rim with a caliper arm on your stand: move towards the gap (i.e. gap on the left arm, move to the left). I think at 1918 this is an error on my part still talking about dish using a dishing tool; just something we didn't pick up during the edit.

I wouldn't recommend this. However Roger Musson's SpokeLengthProject website does have the function to calculate and draw out the lacing patterns of mismatched components.

'ppreaciated!

Thanks Steve! I'm glad they're of help and interest :-D. In my own builds I do this all the time; it can really speed things up once you get used to it and can of course be applied to front disk brake builds too (but works better the higher difference you have between bracing angles). For those wondering what we're talking about Wheel Fanatyk has more detail in the link below: wheelfanatyk.com/blogs/blog/wheel-building-tip-no-6-build-rears-from-right-to-left

Thanks Spills and thanks for all the spoke orders over time; helps keep the lights on for sure! That's a super bomber pair of MTB hoops and I too build that spec a whole bunch; well done for swapping out from the god-awful nipples that are supplied ;-)>! Best of luck with your Cytech stuff; you've got this! (would be super interested to hear any feedback you have on how in depth they teach wheelbuilding btw; feel free to email!)

LOL! So he should be ;-).

Aw sick thanks Juan! I helped on some of the smaller design considerations on the BSC Tools wheelbuilding range so glad you've got some of them! Thanks for your support with spoke orders over the years; whilst I'm no longer involved (having moved to wales) www.BristolSpokeCo.com is now run by my pal Pete and continues to offer custom cut spokes to all :-).

What about them would you like to know?

@RyanBuildsWheels , Thank you for your response, Ryan . Well, I got myself almost a year ago wheelset with dt swiss bladed spokes, and after watching some short videos, I decided to True the wheels. At first, every time I tried to tighten the spokes, I actually bented not only the nippels but the head of the spoke as well. Then, I decided to remove the tubeless tape and tighten the spokes from inside the rim. I should have used oil at the beginning, I guess. Now I ended up with rounded nipples, bented spokes, and the bearings need to be replaced since I noticed that they spin not so much freely on my Wheel Truing Stand. I'm also not sure how exactly is needed for the spokes to be positioned in order not to lose the aero benefits.

MUCH appreciated Paul; it took a while as life threw some curveballs my way this past year but getting this series completed feels really good :-). I'm super glad that you've found the more detailed approach taken in these videos useful and thanks for your feedback and cotinued subscirption :-).

Hey @CulebrasBadGame! HUGE thanks for joining up on Patreon; I really appreciate the support and happy to take the time to answer your question in more detail on there; drop me an email or message on the Patreon page and I'll write back to you in loads more detail early this coming week :-D!

Thanks Stephen! It's good to know you've found it so useful and I hope many others do over time too! It's nice to be able to sort out your friends hoops that's for sure and I've added 'truing damaged wheels' to my list of potential future videos :-).

Hey! My initial suggestion to drive them all down to the same depth; check if that tight/loose has any pattern; perhaps with inbound spokes being the loose ones (this is quite common). I'd then move onto truing as per the videos and not go in with the tensio yet; I will say that on the TM-1 readings of 1 or 2 are exceptionally low and not worth taking; I'd wait until the wheel has at LEAST 50% (if not more) of it's target tension to begin that process.

Bitexhubs.co.uk or by opening up the hub, removing the bearings and looking at the codes on them :-).

Hey Trig! You are NOT (completely!) wrong! In fact I've got a video to make correcting / going deeper into this aspect of lacing but here's a quick downlow on why I shot and mentioned it this way: 1) I wanted to teach a lacing method that had the same starting point for everywhee regardless of what you're building; in this case the starting point is always on the drive side and an inbound spoke. 2) THEORETICALLY (and this is where Sheldon and others are coming from) you want whichever spokes will be taking torque derived from the hub - be it braking or driving forces - to be outbound. To take a disk brake rear hub as an example that means you want drive side trailing spokes to be outbound but DISK dise leading spokes to be outbound. 2a) (because in terms of wheel THEORY the slightly wider bracing angle that outbound spokes have give better 'leverage'...for want of a better technical term right now) 3) Therefore on a FRONT DISK BRAKE wheel you want ALL leading spokes to be outbound! 3a) in my example this is only true on the non drive (disk brake) side....in order to meet point number 1 I start as I do every wheel. However...one could just build a disk brake front wheel from the non drive side to start with just as you would in the way that I describe a rim brake build...and you'll get the result in point 3 above...why I didn't mention this I don't know ;-). Sheldon's point about all trailing spokes being heads out stands true only for a rear rim brake wheel; when it's only experiencing torque from the hub when drive forces are input as you pedal. It's not true for anything disk brake based. CAVEAT TIME!!!! I have - however - in my illustrious time as a professional wrench and dorky pro-wheelbuilder seen wheels laced **every which way!**! Cheap ass factory wheels, high end branded wheels, handbuilt wheels from shops and elsewhere...heck, even my 'own' disk brake lacing method shown here when applied to front wheels...and you know what? I've not seen a SINGLE one of those lacing patterns fail more than any other. Another good example is that many mtb and touring cyclists will lace their drive side leading spokes outbound on their rear wheels because if the wheel suffers chain drop the spokes won't then suck the chain in and so you run less risk of snapping spokes due to chain damage. Therefore I'm very happy to say that (GASP!) on a casual basis when building your own wheels I don't think it really matters and you; but I most certainly WILL put out a video to cover these points in the future so stay tuned!

This is often down to the manufactuer but - for example - DT Swiss have gone on the record to say that their reccomended tensions are for pre-inflation and that one shouldn't increase tension on their rims once you've fitted tyres in case lower pressures or a puncutre then brings you above the reccomended tension. There are a few too many variables for me to give absolute guidance at this point so I'm just going to say it kinda depends on the tyre/rim/pressure/spoke count/total system load combination! For example; my own DT rims is just leave em...I'm about to build a pair of @VelocityUSA Blunt SS (a SUPERB rim...and who doesn't love a good blunt... ;-)!) for my own steed...they're pretty flyweight rims and so can drop more in tension than heavier options might; therefore I'll be checking spoke tenion once I've got the rubber on and bringing it back up if I deem it too low; what's too low? Let's say 100kgf on your high side spokes.

Glad I could help! Tyrone and thanks so much for your comment and subscription! The final episode (part 5) has JUST been finished with editing and will be released Fri 29th!

@RyanBuildsWheels sweet dude, finish up today on the build 😁🤘🏼💥

I can't speak for compatibility of components I don't have physically in front of me sort but just note that tuning spoke tension for rider weight doesn't come into the equation; so long as the rim is suitable for bike and rider and of a good quality, modern design, building it to 120-125kgf should see you A-OK; I'd ask the manufacturer about their own products max tension. I'd likely consider tuning the spoke gauge/type for intended use though and would suggest something such as the Sapim Strong, Sapim E-Strong (if the hub will take it) or 13g Leader.

It's coming; be patient ;-)

Alrite! I'm looking that up ;-) Been listening to Das Koolies a lot of late (long term SFA fan here!)

Wil bear it in mind!

Welcome on board Steve! The depth finder on my bits are a tad deeper than some handheld devices and so the depth finder kinda keeps the whole thing in place until I come off the trigger. Otherwise, nope, that's not an issue I ever experience although if you're not careful and go for too shallow a depth setting then it's definitely easy to mar and scrape nipples as you work up to too high tension too quickly.

No problems reported from the rider thus far @Rykie5 but very well spotted! This was my first ever BERD build and I guess I must have missed that detail back then; interlacing isn't something I do on BERD builds anymore as per their docs :-). Welcome to the channel!

DSN gives you the *option* to spec a longer spoke for sure but also works A-OK with spokes set to the same depth as a standard slotted nipple.

LOL! I think so ;-), you do you!

I like to think I promote the best things in life :-D! THanks very much Jeff! I'm *very* much on a mission to try bringing about the handbuilt wheel revolution for all!

Yep: you also get Roger's book which is updated over time so well worth the small expense I feel 👍🏻.

There's a technique that I employ for some builds that start with radial: I'll have to make a video about this at some point but if starting radial works then that's absolutely a legit way of building too 😊

Nor I! It's all shot so just needs editing and then the series will be complete!

For Sqourx and other 'double' drive nipples set the spokes so as they at *least* go past the poing where a slot would like if you put a slotted nipple alongside; you can also choose to fill the whole head of a double drive nipple; but I prefer to leave, say, 3mm to account for further spoke stretch or the ability to use a longer spoke if needed should that be all you can get hold of.

@@RyanBuildsWheels hmmm, maybe i’m not understanding but it seems that for double drive nipples that method leaves 1-2mm of variance in your measurement and therefore the spoke length calculation may be off by 1-2mm as well. Does this mean double drive nipples tolerate imperfect spoke lengths better? Bonus question, when using double drive - if I understand correctly you would personally recommend rounding *up* spoke lengths if using all DT Swiss components and an odd number was required but all you could get was even numbers?

In a slotted setup that 150mm figure I gave for my ERD Sticks is from the bottom of the slot to the end of the ERD Stick spoke!; make sense?

@@RyanBuildsWheels yep! I found your dedicated video on it 🙏🏻👌🏻

@@RyanBuildsWheels bonus question: if using DT squorx brass nipples, and I need odd length spokes but can only get even length spokes, should I round up or down? (ie: buy 1mm longer or shorter). On my disc build, using DT rr421 asymmetric rims, the front left lands at 287 (using aerocomp here) and the rear right also lands at 287 (using aero comp here). FWIW, both the front right and rear left land at 288 and I’m using aerolites there. Cheers!

My pleasure!