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Had this one in a Tyco train set back in the late 60's.

The Spectrum car has more details because 'Spectrum' was the higher end line than the 'Silver' series cars. The wider coupler swing on the 'Silver' series car is to allow it to negotiate curves found on commonly found 4' x 8' layouts.

I love these cars. Its actually my favorite livery for ATSF. The body side color is kind of a greenish/gray.

Would it be possible to take an air compressor wheth an nozzle on the end of the are hose do any good for it....

On brass upgrades: you may have covered this in a different video but do you generally replace gearboxes on your locomotives or just use the stock gearbox? I know this depends on the model too.

Hey, did you ever add sound to that 2-8-4 that came DCC ready? I just bought the Walthers release C&O (2746) that also came DCC ready, and was curious what sound decoder to buy for it. Thanks!

Very nice review. Surprised the Rivarossi stacked up so favorably in detail compared to the MTH model. In my head the MTH would have been far superior.

So I’m planing to buy a BLI NW Class A and Y6A/Y6b….but every time I do some research I hear so many bad and good things about BLI. As I am European, I can’t just send them back in case there is a problem. Costums etc are a big problem. So is it safe to buy these models? They had been released before already

MTHs chin ku detail is just lazy design, not a technology limitation. When even Hornby can make lovely, fine British running boards on ~$100 models (j15 & j36), then Mth are just not good at modelling, they could have easily had the running boards be tapered to be thinner at the ends, just like anyone who has made a white metal kit has done.

Rivarossi is rereleasing their Allegheny later this year

You mentioned 1601 as being the one H-8 preserved, but 1604 is also preserved.

Great vid, helped me sort out a newly acquired old Balboa narrow gauge 2-8-0 in short order! THANK YOU!

I pre ordered the bli S1 with a smoke unit but the s1 is a big engine so I think it should be fine for me. I do admit I got a little scared clicking on the video, but I also remembered that S1 is a big locomotive

what a wonderful chorus of chuffing! There's really nothing quite like it.

Gotta love the Allegheny. It's one of those locomotives in the world that sum up the definition of powerful machine.

Awsome locomotives

I love this. Where can I get traction tirescfor my rivarossi allegheny?

PRR Q1 Q2 R.I.P

Nice job! I just did one of my AEM-7s with a Loksound 5 Direct DCC decoder with built in keep alive. It's nice because the LED resistors are built on to the board. I have it on my channel.

based fusion 360 enjoyer

Where did you get your prototype photos from?

I saw your post on model railroader, and these look amazing!, I have been wanting to do something like this for a while, so thanks for sharing how you did yours!

call the front half of the RDC-1 a 'sleeper' - that's why the shades are drawn ;)

bellissima locomotiva, io ne ho una della Rivarossi! L Allegheny è una delle mie articolate preferite!

Can’t wait to hear how you got these and what your thoughts on them are, MTH’s Alleghenies are beautiful

Awesome video! There are very few videos of loksound decoders this old. We really have come a long way when it comes to sound decoders.

DONE THE REMODELING OF B.L.I. CENTIPEDES ROOF LINES AT THE REAR OF THE LOCOMOTIVES .... REMOVING OF THAT WRONG ROOF CONTOUR ,, ITS ALSO MOLDED IN COLOR AND A LITTLE ROOF WEATHERING AND YOU CAN'T TELL AT ALL .....

The newer run DGLE is in fact very dark green. Significantly darker than the 2005 run but it is green almost black, but you can still tell the difference between true black and this DGLE. The thing is there are at least two distinct shades of green that the PRR used and apparently called DGLE/Brunswick Green. I wish I can post a link because I know of a picture that wiukd show EXACTLY what I am talking about. If you can allow you channel to accept links I can show it. This is the same confusion with UP's Armour Yellow. It can be an almost canary yellow to a dark mustard color. Annoying.

The worst thing about this model is that it seriously puts the Bachmann model to shame 😂😂

What is the motor you used? I don't see the details mentioned. I've several C-16 an C-6as. I've converted a C-16 to DCC but am not please with the performance and speed of the Rivarossi motor.

Good review Thanks

i like these a5's, i have 2 rivarossi's im thinking of regearing with a cd rom drive motors. One is an older version with the complex valve gear linkage like yours, the other a newer version with simple valve gear tho it runs much smoother, same motor, same brass gear and worm drive..guess there's something to be had with a brass version, that runs so smooth.

He's back! :D

Did MTH make that version factory-equipped with the Box-Pok center driver set? That would be one I’d like to track down. Edit: just saw that you added it yourself, I’d love to hear how you did that

I’d love to have a day but sadly my first run K4 is bricked and finding a second run for a decent price is a pain.

Really enjoyed this and got a kick out or your "basketball sized" coal analogy. Nice attention to detail. Granted, the paint was obviously atrocious. I suspect the 2nd run was during a period of declining revenue ...

MTH just loved to do reruns and made them worse each time, some new models along the way but MTH electronics have improved just a little bit. Still would replace it for loksound or TCS in the long run.

Kinda crazy how quality standards can go down so much in a newer model. Just shows that they were making the new run to ride off of the success of the old run.

I've personally used batteries for my cars. Never a fan of track power for my passenger cars

Bachmann pricing has been inflated for years. Their MSRP for an HO car with 1970s/Model Power/Tyco tooling (thick details, no separate grabs or ladders, obviously cast from old molds) is $50.00-60.00, equivalent to Rapido, Tangent or Scale Trains (high-level of detail, including details specific to railroad-proprietary car classes), and 20-30% HIGHER than Kadee (ditto). At least, the Bachmann cars have (plastic!) knuckle couplers. No idea what they're smoking, at Bachmann.

good job, was it hard taking the tender apart?..I have two of these switchers and interested in adding power to the tender and new lights...dont have dcc yet, not interested as im starting small and all my engine are old DC

-One comment I'd like to add to this Part II video, is that Walther's No longer stocks any parts for the Heritage 2-8-4's. NWSL has re-made the axle gear, so if yours cracks, you should be able to replace it with theirs, although a little work to "re-quarter" the drivers! Bachmann though, has re-released their Berkshires again, so they have a pretty good stock on parts right now, as of early 2024!

The Bachmann engines are more correct in most respects! The biggest Error on the LL Heritage engines, is where the running board steps up on the Firemen's side of the loco (all versions!), it should raise up before the pipe from the cylinders! Only the NKP Class S (700-714) went back the same length on both sides, then raised up past the pipe from the cylinders! Don't like the yellowish Headlight on Bachmann's? Pull the shell off, pull the yellow LED out, throw it away, and replace it with a TCS Sunny White 3mm LED! The white-wash on loco tires, is mostly done on Excursion engines! But the added details that will really make the Bachmann engine stand out are: Blowdown pipe added to engineer's side; Cold water pump on the Fireman's side, frame mounted on bracket behind the last driver, and the water line on the trailing truck to the tender. Also add real scale coal cemented over the plastic coal load! And yes you're right---add a deck plate, and Handrails to the cab, tender (all 4 corners, and a short ladder from the coal bunker, down to the tender water tank area, toward the fireman's side! Also a nice weathering job with Pan Pastels will really make details stand out on engines with molded on details. In the case of your PM 1225, alight weathering job will make it look more realistic, where as your NKP 738, heavy weathering would look better, as those freight engines got pretty grimy after a long run. That and RR's didn't keep them as clean towards the ends of there careers!

I have a few of these and the safest and easiest way to get them out of the box is to carefully turn the styrofoam case upside down and allow the cars to gently come out. Another way is to get a long piece of cardboard, place it on top of the styrofoam case and again, turn the case upside down then once turned over, remove the foam case off of the cars which will leave them on the cardboard making it easy to pick them up. I highly recommend this for the 3 car sets.

Hello, love the vids. I was wondering if you had seen the new BLI club conductors club and if you had any opinions on it. Also im lookng to ourchase my first BLI locomotive and was wondering if new Paragon 4 engines are worth it.

Play you are closed at least 30 of them were put aside for passenger surfaces to help with the heavier trains along with the K4 Pacific's

Nice job and very well explained. I have quite a few older brass steam which I'll need to convert to DCC in the near future. I will likely keep about 15 to 20 steam engines (out of about 50 engines) and keep the ones that are appropriate for my mountain style railroad (HO Scale) and sell the larger engines which would not be appropriate for a Colorado style mountain road. My dad used to send me in the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s a lot of trains from him attending many train shows in southern California during that time period. Again, nice job and great details which is very helpful to someone like myself who will have to convert many brass steam engines. Phil NYC / Jersey Shore Area

You say Lima wrong ..its like Lima bean minus the bean

I have installed a 21pin header in my BLI QSI class J and I found a Pin out wired it up and my TCS WOW decoder is getting really warm and the engine wont run I double checked everything ands its driving me crazy.