วีดีโอ

Thanks, but I already solved this in a future video where I added an after cooler setup instead of desiccant. My problem is that I cant add things to the wall, even with things as small as I have it...as I have to be able to have the flexibility to also roll the compressor out to the parking lot if needed for emergency tire fill ups. That is infrequent enough, and not knowing where in the condo lot we will end up being when needing air, so it has to be mobile vs just a long hose. Also, I do not have space for a second movable standalone portable air tank, so I had to keep everything onboard the compressor setup. The after cooler setup I made definitely works...I have filled the tank from empty 3 times now and zero water made it into the tank. :)

Because I cut the end off that one piece and was tired of waiting for 'bad fitting' amazon parts I went to home depot, bought a 1/4 npt pack of husky fittings and used that to finish the compressor project...ie couldnt return it since I hacked the end off in the lathe (which didnt solve the issue) so may as well make it work anyway. I still do NOT recommend those fittings even if I managed to get it to work eventually buy buying extra parts to use to get it adapted to finally work.

@@josephkrug8579 I have a compressor that is fairly new, but after the motor packed up I decided to change the lot, just kept the tank. That fittings was a headache to match. He he.

Well I am glad you enjoyed it. :) Did you know that even if you buy one of the more expensive $1000 california air tools air compressors....that you still need an after cooler unless you want to spend closer to $3k to get an after cooler they have built in? Or if you have way more garage space than I do, you could buy one of those refrigerated air coolers, but then it is not self contained, and again takes up space I do not have to put it in. I did price out getting another air compressor, and for all that I use it, I could not justify spending $3k on a new compressor that had an after cooler built in that would fit in the space I have....so..I did the intermediate step and added an after cooler to the one I had. If I need a bigger/better air compressor in the future, this after cooler set of parts will scale up to the new compressor too.

The hose was listed as 300 psi working pressure....I figured that would be fine for a compressor that only goes at max to 150psi.

I did, I put he felt wick back in on both bearings before I put it all together and it is working fairly well so far. ie even used the jointer for a project and the oil did not leak out and the bearings did not get above 'touch' temps. The big key was the grooves to help route the oil back in vs having it all go to the outsides.

Nice, the one thing I ran into during the build but do not think I covered, was the threaded insert holes...make sure you have test inserts (ie more than you need to test with) and do a hole at the largest diameter of the insert near its top so they fit without putting too much stress on it...as for mine I broke two inserts testing to figure out how big the holes for them should be...then again they were from another piece of furniture that I took apart vs new, but still. It is something to watch out for, the allen wrench broke out the side on the two test units that were tried to be put in a too small hole in my test wood piece Luckily I had others in my extra bolts/etc box. :)

I made it 'too' nice...Tracey tried it and she likes it better than the other chair she used for garage/yard sitting...so I get to keep this one and get rid of others instead. Oh well, it did 'go' to where it will be appreciated at least. :) And when I get rid of the others, I will still get some floor space back.

Thanks, it will hopefully be enough to save the still usable chair from the trash and allow someone to get a bit more use out of it, and was an excuse to use all the fun garage toys. :)

At the time I did not have a way to do the time lapses that I now have. Sorry if the video was not helpful without that.

Well I got this one fairly cheap...so even with the extras I have bought since then it is still less than what I have seen standalone units sell for. And I did buy one of the all steel replacements and that should solve my issues.

I have heard it the other way too. This one at least does not have the plastic gears etc that the chinese ones do....granted the gears in this are that softer metal, but still, are metal not plastic. For now I will try this one and learn on it and have some fun. I have a supposedly "exact match drop in replacement all steel compound" on order from ebay that will be here in a week or so, that should solve this issue and prevent it from happening again, and hopefully will also solve the binding up issue for the quick change tool post that I was having, as the new one is a straight flat top vs the curves. If it totally pisses me off, this is still a popular lathe and I should be able to get my money back when I re-sell it since it has the complete accessories kit that goes with it.

Thanks, I think I will see how things go for what i choose to do with it. I may just get the steel replacement someone is selling and then it would be "done" :)

I thought about that, but if I raise that it could impact where the tools hit the center line of the material...ie from what I watched/read you want the tool cut to be right at the center line not above it. I also got feedback after the video to just nick the corner off the tool post and that may be easier/less work.

I was about to comment and say just turn out a spacer for the QCTP !

@@JohnDoe-qg6hm Yeah the only thing I am not sure with raising it up further is if that will impact the centerline and the tool position. I think I am correct that I saw on other yourube videos etc that you want to be cutting at the centerline. If that is wrong I am hopeful that someone will correct my understanding of it. :)

Thanks, that is a useful suggestion. since the video the list of possible options has grown: - clean it out and silver solder it after getting it all uniformly hot to help prevent cracks (and then protect it as it slow cools) - clean it out and braze/weld/tig weld it after getting it all uniformly hot to help prevent cracks (and then protect it as it slow cools) - drill and tap/put a bolt down in it to hold it together (that would be a challenge due to the small amount of material in the actual corner that is not also impacted by the dovetail right below it) - make a new one using someones milling machine such as the four MrPete222 videos that he did where he did just that, but he used a bridgeport milling machine to do most of the milling work - buy a fully made all steel one that someone else made - wait until it fully cracks as under normal light cut hobby use it may last for years just like it is now, then do one of the above ideas.

Yea a bit of brazing and some filing will sort out the crack no doubt but if your no use at brazing perhaps ask a shop to do it ! It can be difficult if the metal is not clean and as the cracked part is not separated you cant clean it very well !

@@JohnDoe-qg6hm My other option is to buy a steel replacement that I saw someone selling as a drop in replacement. It is good to know that is an option if my fix fails, or it finally breaks entirely.

They provide a little tool now? glad the video helped :) I was lucky that I realized when I was first changing the paper that 'i better look and see how it is in there before i mess it up' and so that plus my engineering oriented brain helped me get it working, and now the video can help a lot of other people too. :)

@@josephkrug8579 yeah it’s a stupid little hook tipped thing that was designed by someone who never changed the paper! 😂😂 totally confused me with their attempt to explain how to use it! It’s just so easy to do it the way you demonstrate. I would post a pic of it but I threw it in the trash!

Based on what I found though, you really need to empty and get new cleaning pads in the bottom of the machine too...and some of what I took apart, I do not know how would properly come apart without breaking some of the plastic tabs, etc. ie there was a LOT of ink in the bottom of this printer...way more than just changing the print head would fix.

@@josephkrug8579 thanks. I don't really want to take apart my printer. It may better just to buy a new printer. I did find a TH-cam video showing how to dissemble the MG5420

Yeah I have been draining that. I think the issue was it was cold and humid and I was using enough air that I left it run constantly and that was causing the issue.

Time flies for sure. I did get a inline husky moisture removal accessory from home depot yesterday...didn't get it installed yet, not sure how well it would work yet, or if it is refillable. ie replacing the silica beads with fresh, etc.

Also do NOT buy the Husky air line desiccant filter/dryer, for more reasons why see: th-cam.com/video/7BH1_NNC-r0/w-d-xo.html

Now that it has that on there, there is no worry on the jointer shaft. :) Realistically if I didnt wear the half falling apart shirts in the garage (due to their being grease worthy) it probably wouldn't have been an issue before the fix. There is a stop button on the jointer, but I may change it over to one of the newer paddle switches vs that one it has at some point. Honestly I do not do a lot of jointing work, so I am not sure how often I will use it anyway. :) Hopefully often enough to justify the large used up floor space, but time will tell. If I do not, it is now in good enough condition that I would not hesitate to try and sell it to someone else...ie I know it works just fine now. When I got it, all I knew was it turned on for a few seconds (though I had to pay the lady before she even let me test that).

Yep, I got your comment, that is a good bonus, thanks :)

Not as much lately, no one wanted any boxes, carvings, back scratchers, etc that I was making. I will get back to wood projects again if someone buys a custom box or whatever on my etsy store or if I get motivated, but for now have been trying to get the tools that I bought refurbished. So is that comment more that you want to see more wood projects vs tool restoration? If so, what would be a project you want to see me work on and make?

I do plan to get back to wood projects, and there are a bunch of other videos of past projects on my channel. However if you would like to see something specific, make a suggestion and I may make it.

Thanks, Yep the second oil groove video from yesterday got that solved. :) Since this video i found out on the one vintage machinery forum that I do need to get the blades adjusted closer to even, but that is the kind of change you have to do normally when you change the blades vs part of the restoration fun...so I still think it is done, other than some minor tweaks :)

I was not trying to pad the video out....I was just explaining things as I thought of it while doing the video. ie no full plan ahead of time, no script, just talking it through as I went and thought of things. If I remember right, this was before I got my time lapse setup working, and so the videos were a lot more of me talking about things vs showing. The more recent ones should be better...but for the sections where I am talking through something vs showing, there is again no script and I just try and explain as I think of things for it. Sorry you did not like the video, some others did find it helpful. Please check some of the more recent ones with the time lapses in and see if those are better and more useful for what you wanted to watch.

All depends on your need for it and the condition more than what I paid. I did not have a dire need but wanted one...and the price with all the accessories was originally $850 that also included the metal stand it was originally on...i didnt have room for the stand, so without that the guy was nice and dropped it to $650 which I gladly paid. Keep in mind I was planning to pay the $850 with all the accessories I got. The thing to keep in mind with a lathe or a mill...the cost is mostly in the accessories and tooling. So price the accessories you need on ebay etc and see if it is worth it. If you need a lathe like this and it is in good condition, is that price worth it to you. ie if you do not plan to ever mill on it considering even the lathe cuts have to be small, you would not need the milling attachment. A 4 jaw chuck is nice though...so I cant really advise if that is worth it to you. If it did not have all the accessories, since I do not have lathe projects in mind, $850 without all those would not be worth it to me. Keep in mind this lathe is designed to make small parts like screws, bolts, work in soft metals (brass/aluminum, etc). It will do steel but you have to do super small cuts (according to the guy I bought it from). Also keep in mind that you may want to buy this too which increases the cost (I bought this at least) www.amazon.com/Tooling-Package-Atlas-Craftsman-Lathe/dp/B01CF5P94O So I leave it up to you if that price is worth it. If you need a lathe like this, ie vintage real metal (even if the gears are more of a pot metal vs steel), vs the plastic of modern lathes, and they dont come up for sale in your area often, and if you have the money, then it may be worth it. Hope that helps.

Also, how often do lathes like this show up in your local area (or wherever you saw it), if it is very infrequent, that may make it more worth it to buy when you see it, especially if it is in good condition.

@@josephkrug8579 I truly appreciate the reply and info sir. i'm going to check it out saturday. i'm also considering a Micromark 7x14 with gobs of accessories- but he's firm at $1200 but says it's a super deal. Much newer of course. Though I tend to be drawn to the vintage machines for some reason. Thanks again sir!!

Nice, yeah this was somewhat of a happy surprise, not sure the person who got it ever looked at it under a blacklight, they use it for storing frequently used kids toys/puzzles etc in it.

Thanks, yeah when I saw it, I left it for a week, then decided I had to ask if it was still available...and it was. It should have let u go edit the comment after it posts, but hey this way I get multiple comments so I shouldn't complain, take that youtube algorithm. :)

Thanks, yeah when I saw it, I left it for a week, then decided I had to ask if it was still available...and it was. It should have let u go edit the comment after it posts, but hey this way I get multiple comments so I shouldn't complain, take that youtube algorithm. :)

When reviewing the video to answer your question, i realized that this was one I forgot to do in full HD resolution....sigh. Anyway, to answer your question, from what i can find in my purchase history, back in Oct 2022 I used ebay and the specific item description for the order was "94-05 Blazer/Jimmy S10/S15 for Sunvisors with Lighted Mirror Beige/Tan Rt button". ie I just picked one of the listings which just had the mirror assembly vs the entire visor after reviewing a lot of them. Hope that helps.

Thanks that is good to know to try and look more into when I start playing with the lathe. :)

I am glad it helped. I also did a video on some of the gotchas I found when installing the infeed and out feed tables if that would be useful .

Glad it helped. 🙂 You should not feel stupid unless you were the one who originally designed it. People design the craziest things sometimes for tools etc. The important thing is to get it figured out and/or have someone show you how it works, then you know for next time.

Happened to me first few times too. Bc of the curl of the paper it curls itself under the spring and not through the clamping section. I then started to prebend the end section to undo the curl. So it will go straight down.

Also those three plates with the four holes look like wood working faceplates where you’d use wood screws to attach wood to be turned. They could be used on metal parts as well tho.

@@MrEFHATCH1990 Thanks :) I hope to make time to work on the lathe once I finish up with my jointer restoration...the last steps of which are kicking my butt so far.

Thanks, I hope so too. :)

Yeah it is not a full replacement for a planer for rough sawn wood. In a comparison between steel/carbide cutters vs sandpaper, sandpaper would lose every time. If I was going to try that oak, I would not take super aggressive cuts and work my way down/or clean it up some on my bandsaw first (depending on how much thickness I needed to remove). I believe I got some even coarser grit than 80 for it...in one of those multi pack boxes for the paper, but so far I have not had a reason to use it, ie so far I have run the wood through the bandsaw first where I had very much to take off. Good luck with your plan, I am glad you liked the video even if you do not like the sander for what you need. :)

I have had it for a while now and never had an issue changing the paper so far. Sorry to hear your experience is not as nice.

That in the description was the link related to this: So I do NOT recommend this pack: www.amazon.com/dp/B08C4SR5PR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 I do have to say the purple pads which were not all out of round did work well for cleaning off the old paint/etc for the jointer restoration I was working on...but the fact that a third of the pack was out of round was a bit annoying. I would guess that if you somehow ran the disk into something sharp (carefully) to trim the out of round bits off, you could still use those too.

Nice one, Joseph, thank you for the reply. 👍🏻 @@josephkrug8579

I didnt even bother to contact them after they decided my review was not allowed as it mentioned shipping....it was not worth trying to send back, and the rest of it other than the tiny bit that came out should still be usable. ie if you sent it back, it would just get thrown away anyway...and since it was not a food item...I will just deal and use what I got since the epoxy did seal it back up...after of course making the video. :) Sorry to hear yours didnt even arrive.

That is good to know, thanks. :)

Thanks, my wife loves the results so far too.

Thanks, yep when I saw it I couldn't pass it up. I downloaded that book and once I get finished with my jointer restoration, then it will be time to play with the lathe.