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Hi Chris and sorry for the late reply. I create my designs in Inkscape and save the file as a .svg. I then 'save as' a .dxf, which is the format my cutting software uses (I'm using the MyPlasm CNC software from Proma Elektronika). If I need to make any changes to the file, I tweak the .svg version and then do a 'save as' a .dxf.....I find Inkscape sometimes doesn't like opening up .dxf files.

Thankyou for your kind words and I'm glad my videos have been helpful for you in deciding to build your own table. What size table are you thinking of building because I sell plans for my table, which has a footprint of 1800 x 1800mm and cutting area of 1330 x 1330mm and based on a ballscrew drive system operating on the MyPlasm CNC controller and plasma interface unit. If you're interested, you can email me for more details....rmhyde58@gmail.com

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns ...because you have to start from the bottom, but also because most of the local DIY stores sell sheet metal in 2m/1m sizes, I want to make these sizes with an extra 10%, and more than likely I will need advice and I will ask, I'm gathering the materials - you know it's not easy - and I'm sure I'll ask something, for the moment to collect some more money, but I'm having trouble with the works, I'm an argon welder by trade, but I'm in Romania and everything is strange at the moment, thank you for your appreciation

When I built my table, I did so, knowing I'd probably build one to take a full size sheet of steel....2400 x 1200mm. I think if I was going to build my table now, I'd definitely build it to take a full sheet of steel. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch, ok....happy to help if I can.

Hi Richard, thankyou for your kind words, and I'm glad you found my video series informative and helpful. I'd never thought of doing a follow up video, but you make an interesting point, so I'll give that some serious thought and make a video, when I can find some spare time.

Hi Emanuel and thankyou for your kind words. I'm glad you found my videos helpful and maybe inspired you to build your own table. I do sell plans for my table build....if you're interested, feel free to get in touch.

Thanks for your kind words....I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Hi Milos, Luke from Swags Engineering in Rockingham fabricated the water bed for me...here's his details: Unit 11, 21 Hurrell Way in Rockingham. His email address is: swagsengineering@gmail.com I hope he can help you.

The table is now 2 1/2 years old and while not used every day, has seen quite a few sheets of metal pass over it. As for things I'd change, maybe the ballscrews from 1605 to 2010, just to make it run a bit faster when cutting thin material, but turning the amps down on the plasma cutter and tweaking the cut speed have given me good results, though. If I built a full size table, I'd go with rack & pinion drive system.

The water bath is there to trap the fumes, sparks and smoke that are produced from the plasma cutting process. Breathing in these fumes isn't good for your health. The water also aids in cooling the metal, especially when cutting thin gauge.

Thanks Shane, I hope you enjoyed the build series.

Thankyou.

Hi Eric, I've been using the SD55 for a couple of weeks now. I did look at the 45XP but they are way more expensive. I'm still working on a couple of cut quality issues I'm having, but overall I'm happy with the new plasma cutter and machine torch.

Hi Melvin, if you want to send me an email, I'd be happy to try and sort your your issues.....rmhyde58@gmail.com

Thankyou...stay tuned for part 3 which will be coming out soon.

Thanks Philip....stay tuned for part 3, which should be out very soon.

Thanks Gary, appreciate your kind words. Stay tuned for part 3 when we get to 'cut stuff'!!

Do you mean the torch lead (that's currently looped under the table)....yeah, I was wondering about that.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns That's correct.

Hi Rusty. Where do you get the two pieces torch holder...how do you name those? Very good video, thanks.

Hi Michel, if you search online for 'stauff clamp' (Stauff is the brand, but there are other brands out there), or 'pipe clamp', you'll find them and they're available in a range of sizes. The 35mm clamps are a perfect fit for the 35mm machine torch that I have. Hope this helps.

Hope you enjoy it.

Thanks Ross. I've just released part 2...hope you can check that one out. Part 3 will be released very soon.

Hi Tim, the machine torch and consumables are interchangeable with Hypertherm plasma cutters, so I'm expecting the cut quality to be very good. I've made some test cuts already and running at book settings, I'm really impressed with what I'm seeing. I'll be uploading part 2 within the next couple of days, and part 3, showing some of the first cuts, within the next 2 weeks, so I hope you can check them out.

If you're referring to the box section I used to make the frame rails, I visually inspected all the steel I used for the build, to ensure it wasn't damaged.

@@RustysOutbackAdventures point being there is a straight tube in the world. that rail is most likely much straighter than the tube. and your deflecting the rail to match the tube. just sayin.

If I remove the top clamping plate, then the lower swing arm will travel up and over past 90 degrees. In fact, I notched the end plates on the top clamping plate to allow the bender to go past 90, to allow for a small amount of spring back from the material being bent...if that makes sense.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns It makes, yes. But, I mean, you cant center hinges just by cutting slots with angle grinder. @7:29

Being able to mill the slots would be the best option, for sure.

Thanks Gary...we could call them the Rusty Gazza Pig!!!

I love the ease and simplicity of the MyPlasm CNC controller and the plasma interface unit. Once configured, it's so easy to use, as it runs on .dxf files, which I create in Inkscape (a free 2D CAD program). Feel free to get in touch if you want to know more about the MyPlasm system.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns thank you Rusty! I will have to find out if hypertherms plasmacutter comes with a cam software or not and decide later. Ill be following your videos and ask questions later. Appreciate it!

Happy to help if I can.

Thanks Daniel....I'm looking forward to getting it cutting.

Nice bit of gear Rusty, it'll be a game changer for your business, keeps up the great videos mate.

Thanks Jim. I'm really looking forward to getting it fired up...hopefully by the end of the week.

I'm glad you enjoyed the video series and I hope they help you with your build.

Hi Chad, if you send me an email (rmhyde58@gmail.com) I'll send you the parts list I made up.

Hi Ron, yes I built the table myself. If you 're looking for some inspiration for your own build, check out the build series videos on my channel. If you have any questions about my build, feel free to get in touch, ok.

Thanks Ross....this is my first attempt at creating a 'short'...I know lots of people create them so they must be popular.

The customer was going to use metal hooks that fit over his panel fence, and once he works out the desired height, he was going to drill some holes in the frame on each side. The other way to would be secure it to a solid wall, using screws.

Thankyou Gary. I had to make the lines a bit thicker to prevent blowing them away!!

Thanks Rob...it was fun to design and cut this one.

Hey Michel, nice to hear from you. The water pan is made from 3mm mild steel, as are the slats and slat frames. They've all gone a bit rusty, but nothing noticeable at present, after 2 years of use.

Hi Kerry....that's very observant of you. That was an early configuration for the 2nd Y motor, but it's not wired up that way now. Both Y motors are connected up the same way, between the MyPlasm controller and their respective stepper driver units. In order to drive both Y axis motors in the same direction, I have reversed one of the motor coils at the stepper driver unit's motor winding terminals. If you'd like to see a wiring diagram for how it's wired up, email me at rmhyde58@gmail.com and I'll send it to you, thanks.

One more thing....when running 2 motors in the same direction, you have to select 'Inverted Y (in1 home)' in the Axis Function dropdown window that's below the Microstepping Motor Drivers selection on the Electronics tab within the software.

Thanks for the reply. I’m building a similar but smaller table than yours but had to take 11 months off because of a medical issue but I am hoping to have it working in a month or so.

I bought my linear rails and ballscrews off eBay, along with a lot of other parts for my table build. The other option would be somewhere like AliExpress, which is based in China.

Thankyou...glad you enjoyed the video.

Good luck with the plasma table build...it's always satisfying to build it yourself. Someone put me onto cleaning vinegar and it works great....gives a nice clean base to paint over.

Thanks Rob. It was a fun project and something I really enjoyed making. I'm getting better at Inkscape, too.

Hi Richard, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Hope your plasma table is getting a regular workout.

Thanks Jim.

Thanks for your kind words, Tim. Yes, the table is paying its way, even though it's not a full time business venture. I hope your table is up and running soon.

Thanks Shayne...glad you like the videos.

Thanks Ross. It was a really good project and something I hope to do more of.

Thanks Gary, appreciate your kind words.

Hi Ross, I totally agree....it's been something that I've had on my 'to do' list for a while.

Thanks Jim. Yes, it will definitely come in handy on lots of projects.

Thanks Bob, glad you enjoyed the video. I have several more videos in the pipeline!!

Thanks Gary. the bender is something that's been on my 'to do' list for a while and I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

Hi Jordan. Go into your configuration settings (the cog icon next to Communication Status message), open the Machine tab and make sure the 'Axis Soft Limits' box is checked. Also make sure you have entered a value into the X, Y & Z box, which describes the maximum distance each of the 3 axes can travel. Also make sure you have installed and set up your homing switches, too. Hope this helps. If you want to email me, it's rmhyde58@gmail.com

You want to fall in, you'll never come back!!!

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns There is several recipes on P-Spider for plaz-fluid, did you ever try any Laundry Soda? That is what I am using it kills rust and disinfects the water also. I can treat 350 gals with 3 ea. 55 oz box's for less then a $20. Google the following to find the stuff (I'm sure they sale it down-unda too) "ARM & HAMMER Super Washing Soda Household Cleaner and Laundry Booster, Versatile Natural Home Cleaner, Powder Laundry Additive and Cleaner, 55 oz Box)" This is sodium carbonate which has a higher PH than sodium bicarbonate (aka baking soda) swimming pool / spa stores should carry it as well. You want to keep your water's PH above 10 so get some PH test strips as well.. You owe me a TED or two for that advise 😎😎