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Did it not come with the terminal screws

Just purchased for £179 on eBay 27/5/24 from eco worthy themselves) just for reference / anyone curious as to price history on these 👍

I have tons of these. They always tested at least their capacity of 1280wh. The last 2 100ah I bought, I hooked them up in series and ran a capacity test and got over 2600wh. Great batteries for the price. I have tons of their solar panels too. While the panels efficiency/rating is not as good as others, their efficiency/price ratio is the best. What I mean is that their 100w panel might be only getting 75w on average, but it only cost $50. Other 100w panels might be getting 85w but they cost $70 making the Eco a better value. Their panels are also smaller in size.

My Eco-Worthy panel arrived with built in damage, mo replacement

Hello, I realize your post was a year ago, but I am going to try to ask for help anyways...... I bought 2 Eco worthy batteries just like the ones you have in the video. 12v100ah, last summer. I also have an Ecoworthy Charger. I only ended up using one of the batteries,as the other was not needed. I used this battery about 5 times last summer( on a snowcone stand), never fully discharged. They were kept indoors all winter, cool dry room.....Well, its Summer here now-neither one will charge, the charger flashed 13.0 then 4.5A ,and that all it does....The batteries measure @ 1/2 full but have both dies when I tried to use them this year, today actually, while serving customers at a market----and the fore mentioned is what happens when I got them home to charge them and try investigate what happened. But I don't know whats happening, or what to do about it, or anything? Cold you please help me? Keep in mind, I am not as advanced as you, not do I have all these interesting gadgets---just a farmers market snowcone stand owner trying to get help. I hop you get this and can reply. Thank you for you time.

If you still have that BMS it's likely some mosfets that have shorted. There are tutorials on here on how to test mosfets. Look up the part number and see what the max voltage is for the fets and I'm guessing they can't handle 48V (I've seen an SFK video about this exact model saying the stock JBD can't but the special SFK version made by the same manufacturer uses different fets that can handle 48V)

Add a switch to that balancer. All of them that I've seen of that style have a solder pad labeled switch. You can short the pads with solder to have it permanently on or you can run a short wire off each pad and then to a small switch. NEVER balance your battery when below 3.45V per cell. You are just unbalancing your battery because when the voltage curve is flat there is no relationship between SOC and Voltage. So you are just playing the voltage game when the whole point of "balancing" is to balance the number of amp hours in each cell.

On Amazon the Ad seems to suggest its got Low Temp cut off, did you see anything like that?

I hope Renogy gives you feedback ones they’ve worked it out. It really isn’t good enough for the BMS not recovering from a cut off. It means one mistake leaving something drawing and the battery is dead.

Just subscribed as your content is fascinating especially for a battery noob here in California. I've never purchased from Aliexpress before so this might be a first. I'm looking at purchasing the DL24MP 600W Battery Capacity Tester and I have several LifeP04 batteries in my cart as well. Are there cables that can connect from the tester directly to the 12v battery terminals? Thanks again

can LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries be installedsetup on their sides?

Brilliant easy to follow video I'm running something similar myself but a lot smaller basically a single Ecoflow 60W 12V panel the new variant with the kickstand built into the back paired with a Powerwerx 150W LFP MPPT controller which charges my airtravel friendly Ultramax 12V 10AH and 12AH batteries from flat in around 3 hours of sun pushing a shade over 45W into the batteries at 14.6V. During the summer I run my laptop and 22 inch screen mainly from batteries and inverters. On a fully sunny day I can get my largest 30Ah Ecoworthy nearly full from flat so solar does work. I have a 100W folding panel which has died only pulls 0.5A in full sun now but the newly designed Ecoflow panels are pretty tough. With only using a 60W panel the whole setup is easy to travel with.

Hi can you help ? When i connect my electric motor ot doesnt seem to work, it the motor only runs when i add the charger, so i know my mini kota works, is there something i’m doing wrong, it says on the app it’s at 75% charge !

Last April I purchased three LiTime 100 amp deep cycle lipo 4 trolling motor batteries as well as a noco lithium charger from Amazon. One of the batteries froze at 72 % and would not charge. Li Time customer service told me I had to ‘wake it up” by drawing 60 watts for five minutes. This seemed to work. Not long afterwords another LiTime battery went dead @10.25 volts and would not charge at all. I contacted Li Time and after several e-mails gave them my receipt, charger info, order # and picture of battery and this is their response; “Hi Randy, 
Thanks for your info. It helps!✨ 
I will help you return this unchargeable battery, we will cover the shipping cost.” Next I received this from Li Time; “We notice that your order was placed on 7 April 2023, which is one year ago, and according to our refund policy, for orders one year ago, the refund percentage is 60%.Is it acceptable for you? Once the battery is delivered to the warehouse, we will arrange the refund for you, the tax will be refunded by Amazon. For the replacement, you just need to pay $28 to get a new replacement battery.” After complaining about having to pay shipping costs to Li Time I received this; “Hello Randy, 
We've received your returned product and we're ready to arrange a refund for you,before that,we have received your request about the return shipping cost. As you're our valued customer, after a special application, we would like to help you cover the shipping cost of $28 for the replacement battery, but could you pls help write a 5-star review on our website before the refundation? Is is acceptable and convenient for you? If it is possible, pls mention my name Mavis in the review. Thanks in advance for your help!! Here are the steps to leave a 5-star review on our website.” I noticed Li Time asked for a 5 star review BEFORE THEY WOULD SEND ME A REPLACEMENT UNDER THEIR WARRANTY. 

I asked again do I need to write a 5 star review before I get warranty service? Li Times answer was “yes in order to not get charged for shipping I needed to write a 5 star review.” This in ‘my opinion’ amounts to blackmail for warranty service. In my opinion this is an act ( to obtain false higher ratings) of a very disreputable company. I would advise avoiding doing business with this company like the plague, as their warranty policy is truly not 5 years , but only 30 days without penalty ( cost) to the buyer. From Li Time; “If the 30-day return period has passed, if the item is faulty or malfunctioning, the customer needs to pay for the return shipping cost, since you are our valuable customer, we have already covered the return shipping cost for you, normally, the replacement shipping cost will need to be covered by the customer, to make up for a little bit of the loss, if you are willing to leave a 5-star positive review on our official website, we will cover the replacement shipping cost for you again, and we will send you a brand new replacement for free! 
The total shipping cost is $56( for the return and replacement” So my replacement battery was held hostage until I wrote a 5 star review…..this I did begrudgingly. (This is an amended review of the 5 star rating I was blackmailed into writing). Beware of this horrible company, their products, their poor warranty , and potential blackmail to obtain warranty service. Beware that those 5 star reviews you read about ,may be blackmailed by Li Time like mine was , just to get your “kidnapped” replacement battery released from Li Time .

Actually apart from the non VI conversion the PWM is much more efficient, which is why PWM is better for small battery/panels setups (unless your panels are far above the battery voltage).

Is the last terminal set an input or output? What exactly is it for?

Thank you for your work.

Mini is a bit miss leading. It's not a lot smaller than the other 100ah batteries

If you have a 100W solar panel that outputs 20V mppt is not going to make much difference, just marginally at dawn and dusk. But is you have a 320W 40V panel you must have a mppt controller. Several 100W panels can be connected in parallell to increase the charging of the pwm.

I would be more interested in a test with solar connection to see what the differences in the 2 units

what's the best type controller and setup for 2 solar panels mounted on a vehicle that will be in near constant motion and can't be sure it'll be in full-panel sun conditions - eg partial shading might happen. is this something a buck/boost charger is used for and are there any available that would fit where one of these common MPPT type would be used otherwise ?

Interesting, but not a test of solar performance. Repeat the test using solar panels and you will find the MPPT, (maximum power point), controller is able to convert much more panel power than the PWM, into useful battery and load power. The load outputs, other than for controlling lights, say street lights, are rarely used for most applications. Usually loads are connected directly to the battery. What was not investigated is the actual charge process . A PWM controller will have a badly configured charge profile, typically overcharging the battery and reducing battery life. The Victron MPPT, with preset charge profiles for all battery types, will correctly charge the battery. In addition the Victron controller has detailed information on the charge process and battery condition. You also get a 5 year warranty.

Nice batteries. Thanks.

Very good video, with a surprisingly deep dive into the settings and options of each controller. For most folks, the increased output of the MPPT, particularly during partially shaded conditions, makes this discussion largely academic. Also, I think you'll find a lot of people are opting for lithium iron-phosphate batteries and advanced communication throughout a comprehensive system of components. PWM contollers still work quite well for a more simple, and some would argue, more reliable solution. From a cost/value perspective, I think you're really further ahead to go with an MPPT controller, higher voltages, and the much better LFP batteries.

Ordered one to be installed on a small boat. Can you recommend a good DCDC for the alternator and a AC charger? Or can we use the existing charger for lead acid?

Yes, I learned a few new things here, thank you.

Essentially, MPPT prevents voltage collapse of the panel when power/current is taken from it. As seen by the voltage at the maximum PowerPoint - Vmp, and this varies with the PV type used and its environment.

2x more then DIY. Not cheap

Also to add, i've just seen in your tests your PSU supply voltage (14v) is only just above that of the battery (13.4v) for the PWM controller and yet you wound the PSU up to 28v for the MPPT!!! In the first case, then you haven't even got a PWM converter, you've got a switch and a switch that is basiclly just ON all the time because basically outputV = inputV. Repeat you test with a realistic PV voltage as used for the MPPT test, typically twice your battery voltage, perhaps 3x, and you'll see a very different result as suddenly the switching losses are going to show as well as the resisitve ones, because the unit is actually going to have to voltage match (step down), and reduce it's PWM duty cycle. Worst case will be at 50% duty cycle, (PV = 2 x battery) where the current ripple is greatest and hence I^2r losses increase (losses go up with current ripple, even if the RMS value is identical) Which is where you tested the MPPT controller!

"efficiency" in terms of power transfer losses is ABSOLUTELY not the same in a real systems as "solar energy harvesting performance" Both these units are using a pulse width modulated (switching) DC DC converter, of a BUCK (voltage reduction) architecture, and both will be using very similar components (N channel mofset(s) and wire wound inductor) to achieve that, and as a result, it's clear their power transfer efficiency, when measured statically is going to be very similar! In fact, the unit with the greatest PV input voltage (Victron 100Vdc, cheap unit, 50V) WILL be the less efficient one, because RDSon (the resistance of a mosfet when it is turned on) is higher for a mosfet with a greater Vds (the max voltage it can switch)., so its resistive losses will be greater unless additional effort (and cost) is expended to reduce that resistance (greater number of power switches or better switch performance ie a "better" mosfet So, in your static test, with a steady input voltage, and an effectively fixed output voltage, it's no surprise the units perform similarly. However, in practice there are two rather important effects that will absolutely make the Victron MPPT unit massively outperform the basic PWM; 1) The resistance of a mofset increases as it gets hotter. Look at the thermal design of the victron unit vs the cheaper unit. No contest here, the Victron unit is going to maintain stay a lot cooler and hence, in practise and especially at high PV insolation when output current will be high, the Victron unit is going to deliver a higher efficiency. In fact, dissassmbling the pwm unit and looking at the thermal paths, this unit is going to be terrible for use at anywhere a sustained output near it's theoretical rating 2) A real PV panel or array of panels is absolutely of a complex impedance. The ability of any MPPT controller to dynamically impedance match the PV to the load across a wide range of insolation values and panel temperatures and states (including aging) is, in a real system, running for years in order to get a ROI, going to make an enourmous difference to its harvesting performance!

A Victron 100/15 ? That's really quite ancient, haven't seen one of those in a long time. The Victron 75/15 and 100/20 are more current. In anycase, the 75/15 and 100/15 can only handle up to 24V batteries (roughly 30-some-odd volts) on the output. The 100/20 is the go-to for 48V batteries. In anycase, there are some other likely serious differences, particularly when it comes to protection circuitry. Most no-name charge controllers are not current-limited devices (means you can over-current the input and burn it up), and also do not have real voltage protection circuitry. The Victron's have full current limiting and control (output current limit can be set in the app). The Victron's also have automatic temperature power derating above 40C ambient (60C on the heat sink, roughly) so it's fairly difficult to blow one up. Not impossible, but difficult. And the Victron has multiple over-voltage protection circuits, including a clamp on the solar input if all-else fails. The Victron is also nearly fully-potted and full of sand to help sink the heat while that little PWM controller probably isn't. And the Victron has much, much better bulk/float handling (its night and day really), particularly as the battery gets full. So some fairly huge differences, actually, above and beyond PWM vs MPPT (DC-DC buck) operation. The temperature compensation on the Victron monitors an external device, such as the temperature sensor connected to a Victron shunt. It won't compensate based on its internal temperature readings since those have nothing to do with the battery, and you can't connect a temperature sensor directly to the charge controller. You need a separate device that is smart-networked or VE.networked in. -- In terms of the "diverting the current"... no, the Victron isn't diverting anything. The "load" output is just a FET switch off of the battery. It is NOT regulated in any way. The load will take current from both sources if it needs to, but its just relative voltage. If the load is less than what the charge controller is outputting, most of the energy will come from the charge controller because the voltage draw-down won't be sufficient to pull from the battery. If the load is greater than the charge controller's output, then the battery will make up the difference. Since the current draw is entirely related to the voltage draw down, and the battery has a different effective internal resistance at different currents, you do get decent current sharing between the two depending on the state of the battery. It won't generally be all one or all the other. -- If you have a full-time DC load and do not need fine ON/OFF control (i.e. depending on the battery's low-voltage disconnect), just connect your load directly to the battery or use the LOAD output of the Victron to articulate a relay. Finally, note that the LOAD output on the low-end Victrons can only handle resistive loads. They can't handle inductive loads or even devices with input capacitors, at least not very well... they are very, very sensitive to short conditions and will turn off. The LOAD output is also pretty easy to burn-out... a failing off these smaller Victron's. The larger Victron's don't have LOAD outputs at all because they realized that they couldn't just use a cheap FET as a solid-state switch without a bit more protection and control circuitry. In anycase, nobody in this day and age should be using PWM charge controllers. The Victron's are pretty cheap and offer an almost unbeatable set of features. -Matt

Maximum Power Point Tracking Pulse Width Modulation

Briefly explained, PWM controller is just regulator, MPPT is conventer and it can utilize higher panel voltages for current.. I have EPEver 20A controller, panel 360W and sunny day panel gives 30 ish Volts what gives roughly 10A , output current from controller is roughly double when my system is 12V and max charge set to 14.2V for Lifepo4 battery. Sorry my bad English im from Finland.

Good job. Quality info given and the PSU you use is a great price using the link provided. I have V.100/20 sitting next to my new Phoenix 48/1200 . Not the perfect buy but I wanted/needed another inverter in a hurry. Better to have something right away, power can go out so so quickly. Thanks for the upload, keep at it, keep improving.

I used a battery jumper, it worked to snap mine out of safe mofe.

Am aceasta baterie si sint foarte multumit de ia ❤❤❤

Thanks for the video! I was going to test one of those! Now i wont even try! Have you seen those wires? Thickness, ... thats unsecure and have very low quality! Like everyone says, chinese only copies and make bad quality products! 😂 never buy chinese products!

I have just repaired one of these. The Negative lead had come off the BMS because of a dry joint. You can really tell they didn't give it enough time with the iron

quality seem not so bad when you look the price

Nice tear down and very informative, pricey though and for that money I would have expected heating pads to be incorporated into it.

Question? Why can you not just bridge the Earth bus bar to the Netural bus bar instead? Wont the RCD ''trip'' and be functional if the ''bridging'' was done this way instead? would it be the wrong side of thr RCD as it were?

Suitable fuse rating should prevent pulling double the max current for any length of time. But the fuses are also a lottery. The BMS will let you pull 100A all day, it does provide short circuit and over or under voltage protection.

Great video thanks. I've got the tiny Ultramax 12Ah and 10Ah batteries both can sustain over 18Ah without getting too warm unlike other knockoff brands. Batteries still going strong after 2 years of daily use.

Nice video, thanks. Amazing just how much wasted space there seems to be inside the casing.

Nice touches in battery build quality tbf, even though they're relatively cheap compared to your previous teardown, but thats built to iso i suppose, the UK belt n braces. Keep them coming brother 🤞👌

Thanks for the review and thorough tear down. Did you state 0.2C discharge...that would be 10A for a 50Ah battery and not 20A or am I mistaken?

😂 Scott-mans (Scottmans) Wallet comment! Great review!

Can you link multiple of these batteries to run a trolling motor?

Very expensive

They could make the casework a bit more attractive as it looks cheap and bargain-basement, despite that they appear to be marketed towards commercial buyers.