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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2024
- This is one of the least expensive batteries I have tested on the channel and the build quality is really, on par with the more expensive brands i have tested. These batteries are available via Amazon - amzn.to/45zE6tO and eBay - ebay.us/cBWn3I
They also have a 12V 200Ah version on eBay - ebay.us/x0xoH6 and a 24V 100Ah ebay.us/4P4QmB (clicking these links will take you to eBay)
Li-Time Mini Battery link is uk.litime.com/...
or Amazon - amzn.to/4ewMjTM
Clamp Meter -amzn.to/4cyIxqX or eBay ebay.us/wwtUna
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---Solar Charge Controllers -
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Victron 500A Smart Shunt - amzn.to/4crzlES
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Class T Fuses etc
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10 Amp Power Supply Unit - amzn.to/3zdIfrg
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Edecoa 3500W - amzn.to/4cxwM46
Renogy 3000W - amzn.to/3KR9NVY
12V 1000W PSW Inverter - amzn.to/3KSJYow
24V 3000W Inverter - amzn.to/3VA56VF
Eco-Worthy( NEW RELEASE) - 2000W Inverter - uk.eco-worthy....
or from Amazon here - amzn.to/3xwkRVx
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Battery Chargers
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As an amazon Affiliate I will earn commissions from sales made using my links at no extra cost to you and all links are affiliated with vendors.
Thanks for the video, looking at purchasing 2 and having them in parallel in my next camper build. One thing i did notice is they said they can be charged 2 ways, solar and battery charger via 230v, i assume they are ok to charge via a B2B from the vehicles battery/alternator too.
Thanks again, enjoy the videos 👍
Yes absolutely use a B2B charger.
😂 Scott-mans (Scottmans) Wallet comment! Great review!
Thanks for watching!
excellent review and teardown - thank you!
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment, it is appreciated
Thanks pal just ordered via your amazon link, looking forward to it woo hoo 👍🙏
Thanks and please let us know how they perform for you.
Took 5 days to arrive, and ive just ordered another 2, hope they've got you on epic commission 😂
Thank you for destroying your battery so we don't have to!
Your welcome 😆 🤣
Amen brother.
This DC House 100ah battery is on Temu for $153.
I just bought one from eBay, and it was only 189 USD. Also had a 4th of July sale on it. 38 off 189 USD. I'm glad to see it is a great quality battery. I'll be using mine on my 15-foot tri hull fishing boat for lights and trolling motor. My engine doesn't use a battery. It's an 18hp evinrude 1967 model. Tha KS for this video. Have a great day
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. There are some great deals out there now, thanks to ever increasing competition.
How’s it working for you with your trolling motor? I’m looking to get one for mine.
@buddyrogers4538 it does great. Runs my led lights and trolling motor great. It's a big battery but a lightweight.
Thanks for the video, very interesting. Looking on Amazon they say in one of the pictures it has Low temp cut off. Also still advertised as 2 year warranty
I did make them aware of the different info on amazon and eBay at the time, and they said they would update. Obviously, haven't 🙄
Thanks for the review and teardown. Here in canada dc house was the seller of eco worthy batteries on amazon. Now they have their own brand and eco worthy seems to prefer to sell direct from their website. I have several smaller eco worthy that are great. Might try the dc house for next project as they are the cheapest in canada on amazon and construction seems great.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment 😊 it's appreciated
Have you seen their latest Leisure battery, 100ah with a different case?
The case includes USB A & C PD with charging at 45w by USB C. There is also a DC 5mm socket at 5a.
It also has a carry Handel!
Yes I am aware of it but haven't physically seen one yet. If they send me one, I will definitely check it out.
Cracking, well done. Like you, I paid a hell of a lot more for the Ecoworthy. The Ecoworthy 280ah is £470. That's my next purchase. I could barely buy the cells for that.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment it's appreciated
Wow, I took a punt on one of these, I feel like buying another after seeing this. Obviously well constructed.
Built quality has really improved over the last year.
Looks like a great budget buy. No Bluetooth or low temp protection and, more importantly, over discharging, are the only minuses.
The price is very competitive for sure but hopefully people watching and buying these will be careful not to charge them frozen or over discharge.
7.5v will destroy the cells 😮 run LFP under 2.5v per cell and dendrites start to form, do it often enough and the cell will short out 😢
I recon these are failed QC units that have been sold on as per the usual Chinese way of business, it's also why they company thinks there are cylindrical cells in there and there's only 2 ways to charge it IE they don't have a clue about the product, it's fine saying an inverter will shut off before damaging the battery but not every load has a voltage shut down.
The BMS should save the battery not let it get damaged !!
@Dirt-Diggler That would make complete sense, it's a very cheap bms albeit a JBD and yes if it won't protect the cells its useless. I wonder if it could handle a short, maybe i will find that out. It took a charge at least.
Thank you for your work.
Thank you for watching and taking time to comment. It is appreciated.
I ordered the DC House 24 volt 100ah off ebay and received an ecoworthy battery in an umarked box (shouldn't lithium batteries be marked and use special couriers)? If you follow ecoworthy/dc house state of charge chart you would believe the battery is faulty or only has half the stated capacity. They say 26.42 volts is 30% when in reality 26.1 is around 50% resting voltage. In truth if charging and discharging the voltage is completely irrelevant for state of charge which is why I'm glad I bought a shunt to measure ah in and out. It appears that for a charge/discharge of 0.1C (10 amps) you can probably get more than 100ah out of this battery. Also I learned that while ecoworthy say 29.2 is the charged voltage that seems to be where the BMS will disconnect. If using a solar charge controller you need to set the maximum voltage to be 28.4v or less otherwise you'll be bouncing off the disconnect everytime the sun appears from behind a cloud. Mine is now set for 27.8. Hopefully that is high enough for cell balancing as ecoworthy say their bms balances at 3.6 volts per cell but seeing as most of their information is wrong I'm hoping that it is actually around 3.4 volts per cell. I know that fully charged is around 27.7v if you can look at the charging voltage graph (using the shunt). It hits that voltage and pretty much stops taking any current and the voltage shoots up. A lot to learn about charging/discharging lithium batteries! Now I just need some bigger solar panels so I can charge the battery in one day!
Its a shame the cutoff is so low, that could damage the cells, also they advertise low temp cutoff but it seems to be false advertising. They are £199 now so pretty cheap assuming you can deal with these issues.
Forgive me if I missed something but you said the relatively small BMS gave some doubts regarding series connection. Just to clarify, the manufacturer confirms up to 4 can be used in series and/or parallel. Is this right?
Yes they say that in their marketing materials, same with the Eco-worthy claims but I personally wouldn't use more than 3 in parallel or 2 in series to err on the side of caution
Sorry for daft question but would using 4 of these in a 2s2P configuration going to cause any issues?
I wouldn't imagine so, plus you will be able to monitor each battery. Just make sure you charge each battery and then let them sit in parallel to equalise fully before connecting in series. The BMS may be fine for a 4s set up as claimed by the manufacturer, just I don't have enough data to make a firm call.
Fantastic work mate. Exactly what I was looking for. I do have one worry about these batteries. If they're supposed to last 10 years, isn't a 3 year warranty a bit short? What's the catch? Or is this normal in the battery world?
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I personally take any long-term warranty with a grain of salt. Will any of these companies be around in 5 years? The chemistry used in the cells Lifepo4 will probably last longer than any company selling them. On the whole they are very reliable and with proper care will last many years ( much longer than any Fla) Also I reckon if things we're to go wrong it would most likely happen within the warranty periods given. Some companies give a years warranty, others up to ten years.
How big of an issue is not having a low temperature sensor? I'm in the UK and have solar panels on my camper, would the charge from the panels damage the battery if temperature drops to 0c or below? FYI....The solar charge controller is built into my Renogy DC-DC charger. Great work on the channel, really informative.
Hi, tha for watching and taking time to comment. Unfortunately, Lifepo4 batteries will be damaged below 0 degrees if charged. unless your charge source has low temperature charge protection built in. While you can actually discharge a frozen Lifepo4 Battery, you just can't charge it. I am not sure if your unit has any low temp charge protection but worth investigating. If you have an existing battery you can try insulate it or add a 12V thermostatic relay to control a heating pad during cold snaps. If you have yet to buy a battery, you are best to get one with low temperature charge protection built in via the BMS.
@@DCGUY Hey, thanks very much for the detailed response, I've just checked by chargers manual and it states that is will stop the charging when temperature is below 1c if the battery mode is set to lithium so I think I'm good to go for the DC House battery after all. Thanks again
@@gazzamundo that's awesome
How is this battery performing since the teardown?
I bought the newer model of this battery with built in USB ports. Looking at the specifications, it seems to have the same bms though.
Thanks for the information.
So far so good in my own set up. I didn't know they had units with USB ports.
Would be interested in their 48v battery
You measure 13.27V at the charged state. But in the manual it says the 100% SoC is at 13,46V. Why is that?
The voltage settles, lifepo4 doesn't behave like FLA and that's why you can't really use voltage as an accurate state of charge.
So glad you uploaded a video on this one. Bought it straight away. I remember subscribing 2 years ago. Still so much value! Since it doesnt have a screen. Whats the cheapest shunt u can recommend for this battery. I dont need bluetooth or something. Took a glimpse on a few on ali express but not sure what to buy though.
Any shunt will work for example this amzn.to/49Dppa8 and check on ebay too
I would love to see if it can reach its 400a surge current for 10 seconds.
Most of the info seems pretty random to me. Maybe the cells could do that but whether the bms could is another matter.
A Scotsman opening his wallet. Quality. Great video. Keep them coming.
Thanks
Like to see a 280ah eco worthy i know you done the smaller ones
Thanks for the detailed teardown, if you could buy the eco-worthy battery for a similar price, which one would you go for?
From my own findings there was no difference between them. The DC HOUSE are re badged eco worthy units, exact same warranty period and the dc house usually cost less. So I would go with the cheaper option. Also look at fogstar eco units coming August
These worked fine in a 36v resistor golf cart. Never shut off flooring it or up hills.
Good to know thanks
There's a 200ah one now!!! We need the teardown!
I've seen that too. Would be interesting to see how that's put together
Can these DC house batteries be installed on their side? seems some LI batteries can and other cannot and it is not always apparent when you can or not
One of the benefits of lifepo4 over lead acid is the fact you can position them any way you want to fulfill your needs.
🤣If they are the same, then I will choose DCHOUSE because it is more cost-effective
Nice tear down!
I have an eco-worthy 12V 100AH battery - think I can buy one of these to hook them up in series, or best stick to second eco-worthy battery?
They are the exact same batteries from what I know, should not be an issue. Same cells and bms units.
I got a reply from dc house saying they are cylindrical. Probably sent you a better battery to make us buy it. I wanted one of these but how can i trust them after this.
Really? I can only go with what I have seen and given the dimensions of the case I highly doubt they could fit cylindrical cells. UltraMax I took apart used 68 cells and its much heavier. It may be you got the wrong info as I am not aware of eco-worthy using cylindrical cells, only pouch or prismatic in 100Ah
Yes I thought to myself they would probably be pouch cells, because most of the lower end batteries tend to be.
Nice batteries. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment
I asked dc house about the 7.5 V cutoff and they replied "Normally the battery will cut off between the voltages of 9v and 10v.". Anyone with more info on this?
Being a JBD BMS I did expect it to stop at 10V but saying that even the Renogy Pro I tested went well below and even went into protect mode. Fortunately the dchouse accepted charge again with no issue. Most inverters will cut off at 10V anyway before the battery does so if you use a dchouse just use a shunt to ensure you don't go below 10V if your not sure of the inverter cut off voltage
Hi ,can I put these together with my 2 eco worthy batteries, I read somewhere that all batteries should be same brand but of these are just re branded eco worthy would it be safe to mix them ? Thanks
From what I've seen on other eco worthy batteries they are using this exact same BMS and are essentially Eco-Worthy so you shouldn't have any issues.
Great video. The instruction leaflet is exactly the same as my 100ah ecoworthy.
@@benv5243 So is the wording on the front.
What home battery charger would you recommend for this battery, and can this be a direct replacement for a lead acid leisure on a motorhome (2010) normal alternator.
I personally use a victron smart charger but any suitable for lifepo4 e.g Noco will do. These are not suitable to use as a starting battery, only leisure with a suitable B2B charger or solar charge controller
It's a good price but on the lack of proper LVP I'd only buy one if i intended changing the BMS, sorry but a BMS that allows the battery to be damaged is useless IMHO
Good information 👍
Totally understand, the bms let's the battery down in that regard but being a JBD I would have expected better as I personally use JBD in all my own stuff. I may change the bms in this unit as the retail cost of the cells alone are probably worth the cost of the battery.
@@DCGUY could the bms settings be changed? If a bluetooth dongle could be plugged in, could it be done that way? I don't know. I couldn't tell from your review.
@barrydavies2977 regrettably there is no way to change the BMS parameters, however it would be straightforward enough to replace with a unit with BT functionality.
What would be a suitable replacement BMS I it was to be replaced with a BT trusted unit?
House to yourself, 6 pack of Tennents - time for a tear down. Thanks for the info. Good Job.
Thanks for the review. Did you find out which class cells are in these things?
Unfortunately I didn't
Great informative video. Would it be safe to run 3x of these batteries to cope with running my 12v fridge etc. Also could you recommend what size solar panels would be suitable to keep the batteries charged.
3 in parallel should be fine and rule of thumb is 200w solar per 100ah battery with min 30a scc. You can find more info on my website about how to choose items.
The new 200ah version says can have 4 to a string with 48v X 4 in a bank with a whopping 52kw!
how long did it take for that initial charge? I've had mine on the charger now for about 5 hours and it's still charging.
Takes a while but depends on how many amps your charging at.
Ordered one to be installed on a small boat. Can you recommend a good DCDC for the alternator and a AC charger? Or can we use the existing charger for lead acid?
Unfortunately I have not personally used a DC to DC charger so cannot make any specific recommendations. Victron, Renogy and even Eco-Worthy have DC-DC chargers available in various amps. Higher the amps the faster your battery will charge. eg a 20A charger will recharge a fully depleted battery in 5 hours whereas a 50A charger will recharge the same battery in 2 hours. Same with the AC chargers. I have a Victron ip22 30A AC charger and a Noco smart charger 15A but any charger with Lifepo4 charge profiles will work. I see Fogstar now sell lifepo4 chargers too. Using a charger designed for FLA is not advisable as they use a totally different charge algorithm
@@DCGUY thanks, and what about an AC charger?
@@tizianod I like the Victron ip22 30 but they are a bit pricier. The Noco smart charger does a pretty decent job too it just doesn't have Bluetooth etc
I think I might go for a Victron 15A.
I have found Ecoworthy has a DC DC + solar MPTT so I'll probably take that as well...
That's not a great deal, it's about twice the price..
The BMS system used on the cheap (affordable) batteries always have issues, I have one in and the low voltage cut off it too high
I'm waiting to take delivery of another, hope that runs better. It's in a metal case, with screws, so at least I can get in there to upgrade the hardware.
Thanks for the video. Looks like a decent battery for the money, Certainly cheaper than the Ecoworthy's i purchased last year. I would purchase a few but have a 12v system with 4 ecoworty in parallel already. How would i add additional capacity whilst keeping it 12v?
Theoretically speaking you can have as many batteries in parallel you want, but I wouldn't recommend you do that. 4 lifepo4 is an acceptable set up and you could simply replicate what you have already and tie them at a common bus bar with independent Fuses for each bank of batteries. I use MRBF Fuses on each battery post, then an ANL and finally a class T fuse from the banks going to the inverter.
@@DCGUY Many thanks for the reply, so each bank connects to a bus bar and inverter also connects to bus bar? what is the benefit of a class t fuse over ANL on line to inverter on 12v? I also see from your website the MRBF are no longer available via your link.
Thanks for letting me know about the broken link. A class T fuse is much faster acting and eliminates any potential for arcing. How are you recharging your batteries at the moment? Would you have the capacity to charge more? As I am considered a small power consumer I have 2 seperate banks of batteries and can choose to use power from both banks simultaneously or individually using a 4 way switch depending on my needs. I also have a separate charge feed going to each bank and while it's not everyone's ideal set up it works for me at the moment, so I can charge a bank while using the other or charge both at same time via mains or solar. So negatives from both banks go to a common neutral Busbar and the positives ( each fused) go to the switch and then via class t to my 3500w inverter.
@@DCGUY Yes i watched the video where you were showing your battery set-up via the switch. Similar to yourself my solar is on a shed, 1kw solar at present, not so good with Scottish winters i top them up occasionally via mains charger, but produces more than enough in the summer. I may try a 2 bank setup. Thanks again for the information and keep up the good work.
I have the 48v version. The QR code number says the cells are hithium prismatic cells but I can't find 50ah prismatic cells
www.evcomponents.com/eve-3-2v-50ah-prismatic-lifepo4-cell.html just an example but there's lots on the market
@@DCGUY I'm not sure it is these cells. I could push anything higher than 3.55 volts in to the cells. These look capable of taking 3.65 volts. So it would explain why my charger won't go over 56 volts. Is there a way of testing if a cell is fake ?
You will notice that the 50Ah cells have a nominal 3.2v not 3.65v like 100Ah cells. As for fake, some resellers do fake QR codes and put then on used cells and tout as new grade A or B
@@DCGUY in your experience would a fake cells pass a capacity test ?
@@sun-sea-solar it would be very unlikely to reach capacity if they were fake cells.
can LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries be installedsetup on their sides?
Yes, you can place then in any orientation
What should the bulk / float be set to on my solar controller? It's a cheaper one so doesn't have presets. Also I've set it up with a renology 40a dcdc charger. The settings for that imply it should be charged at 14.6 but that seems too high. Got it all installed just need to make sure I'm not going to destroy it with incorrect charging
While some battery manufacturers actually suggest 14.6V (3.65v per cell) I personally like to go to 14.2V with float at 13.5v which is what my Victron Charger is set too.
@@DCGUY top man, thanks for the advice 👍
I also received a reply from DC House stating the following : "Absorption voltage 14.6v, Float voltage 14.6v and between 13.5v and 14.6v are belonging to fully charged" 😂 doesn't exactly fill you with confidence does it?
Given you basically destroyed the battery anyways, it would’ve been nice if you would’ve just clipped those wires so everybody could see the finale of your tear down. Thanks for all of the other information you provided however.
Can you link multiple of these batteries to run a trolling motor?
Yes, as long as your motor draws under 100A if used in parallel etc but keep protected from water.
BMS should cut off well before it gets to 7.5 volts. That's too low.
Yes, it should ideally stop at 10 volts so bit disappointed at that but thankfully most will be using an inverter that should stop at 10 - 10.5V
Eeep. 7.5V? That's 1.88V/cell... well into permanent cell damage territory. No BMS should ever allow that.
@junkerzn7312 totally agree, it is a jbd unit too which are usually OK but is definitely the cheapest version
@@DCGUY I kinda wonder if that little BMS's discharge FETs blew up from the load when it tried to turn them off... usually that would result in them shorting input to output permanently, so it might not be able to turn them off any more. It's really odd that there would be no low-voltage disconnect, even on a fly-by-night rebranded battery.
@junkerzn7312 I've inspected the BMS and saw no obvious issue and it is taking charge but will be carrying out more testing including series and parallel use.
Just ordered a 200 amp one.
That's great, let us know how it works out for you. Cheers 🍻
@@DCGUY what size fuse would I need for my solar project
@Lord_Stinkfoot that's down to the size of inverter you're running and how many amps you expect to use.
@@DCGUY 2500w inverter
If you are using 12 volts, then the inverter has the potential to pull 250 amps so you should use 40mm cable and a minimum 250 amp fuse. However, if its 24V the Amps will be 125 and a 20mm² cable. Also check what size BMS the battery is using, if its a 100 amp unit that will limit you to a maximum of 100 amps from the battery at any given time and if it is a 200 amp BMS again that will restrict you too 200 amps maximum. Hope this helps
Don`t post to highlands and islands,i am in Tarbert argyll Scottish mainland almost level with carlisle.
That's a pity, their loss.
I think 7v cutoff is a deal breaker. The cells are probably either B or C grade, so the manufacturer lowered the cutoff voltage to 7v to improve the AH rating of the battery at the expense of premature damage to the cells. I would pass on this battery.
Interesting
Video said it would have still passed ah rating if it cut off at 10v.
It was still 103ah at 10v.
Lol, rating a battery in pence per watt hr. Priceless.
Email with photo sent brutha
just paud 170 on ebay
13.27 is a low full charge voltage. I bet the cells are used
Lifepo4 batteries are usually shipped between 30 and 50 percent charged only.
2x more then DIY. Not cheap
When you factor in good grade lifepo4 cells, busbars,BMS, cables, terminals, tool's and everything else needed for a DIY I doubt there's any real savings to be made building a 12v battery.
@@DCGUY I doubt that this BMS can be used in serial, he not use a relay but mosfet, a victron aku have a separate line and if one bms have aror then a charge is stops. Here you cannot that and better use it only at 12v, no more. Second stuff is big price, LFP cells are cheaper and cheaper and I build 12/23/36/48v banks and price is like half of that one, try, LowVoltage is easy. I operate mostly at 280ah and more, for only one aku it's costs but if someone do in that, it's cheap to build one.
If your doing a lot of builds and the bigger the system then yes the costs are less
@@DCGUY Maybe other word sentence, a parts, import them, travel costs with tax etc. is half that price. DIY person pay 50% if this one to do that. Company who need profit, warranty, space to store them.. it's a proper for 50% - this is question we need think. BR from Poland.
Ahh, I forgot, good review! Capacity tested and you show internal stuff - very good !.