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Appreciated Neil

Honestly no, I very much doubt it. Obviously without some form of equipment to back that up lol. It's not the initial flash but the lingering effect. Upol slow was my go too for years but I havevthe luxury of wiping down the night before I coat so was never a concern. Still a great choice if you have the time though 👌

@@ObsidianDetailing I'm a home user everything is done outside, do you think the wind outside might help it flash quicker. I've been unconvinced by other panel wipes I have used so was thinking of trying Upol and found your video. What's your go to panel wipe at the moment.

I am using koch chemie sil. Its dilutable like a normal ipa is and seems to do a great job. I used upol for years and although I had no failures I moved away with the mindset that even though I had no issues I was removing a "potential ". I figure every little bit helps long term. But I really think the key is using a rinseless wash to remove polish residue as the paint is much cleaner before ever getting to the wipedown.

Yes, I find px10, hydro and vulcan ALL fair amazingly in regards to water spotting/etching. We had a video of I think it was Australia testing px10 in mid day sun with tap water. If I can find it I will post it as a short. But if you have a ceramic coating on a car right now try a mineral deposit remover and switch to a non ceramic maintenance spray, something like sonax brilliant shine detailer. As it's polymer based it limits the issue and plays perfectly with many coatings. This change will help a lot right now

Hydro is a super slick coating and can be easier to apply in certain conditions, this could very well be the reason they chose that combo. Both Zeus and hydro are VERY strong also, so without making assumptions it "could" be the coating is clogged. It happens here too over time, we have a brand available called labacosmetica and they make a wash system called the 3ph wash. Maybe speak with your detailer to see if there is anything similar available in your country. It always clears a clogged coating for me

@@ObsidianDetailing Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. Was just very disappointed with the unevenness on the body. But between the PX10 + Vulcan or Zeus + Hydro combo, which one is better among the two, in terms of longevity and easy maintenance?

My opinion based on my environment here, nothing beats px10 and vulcan. I mean maybe hydro over that too but in terms of a "normal" stack of coatings, px10/vulcan beats all. My environment here is cold and damp most of the time, with a lot of road dirt/mud and tree debris. Think miserable and you have basically got it lol. Can't comment for you and your environment obviously, I do seriously recommend some kind of detox routine just to see if it's holding something on a microscopic level. It can work wonders. Check a video on here for the 3ph wash, it was a blue porsche if I remember rightly

@@ObsidianDetailing Thank you brother. You are actually right. Hr suggested PX10 + Vulcan and Hydro topping once in 3 months. Which then became Zeus + Hydro. In terms of weather, quite similar, but not as cold as your place. Will certainly take it out to him and have him inspect the issue and do the ph3 shampoo wash. If that doesn't solve, do they typically redo the coating? May be, I'll then opt for PX10 + Vulcan.. I really wish you were here in India.

@@ObsidianDetailing HI bro! We did one decontamination wash and it didn't really work... NO hydrophobic effect, not smooth at all.. This is quite disappointing and while speaking with the detailer, he has been checking with other Titan detailers in India and they have faced such issues with Zeus and also PX VULCAN combo. The promise of Vulcan was for years and now within months, it's gone... Could be a bad batch of supply or poor application? How much quantity of Zeus is required for a SUV? May be they used very minimal quantity and it has gone waste. Something I should escalate with the detailer and also with Titan. What do you think, please advise.

They are a great pad, very effective

I haven't tried the thermo pads yet, do you rate them?

@@ObsidianDetailing I've had a phone call with the owner of zvizzer and regular emails. The Thermo All Rounder's and detailing line trapez pads are really good. Of the all rounders, the red, orange and yellow would be my main go to's and of the thermo detailing line the white, blue and red

All the horses legging it I was told 🙈

It’s the cold start as it has a 200 cell car exhaust it sounds like popping burbling this car actually has the full hartech engine 👍

I'm glad it was helpful and has helped. Makes me feel good

They are narrow beam led lights. Recessed into the wall. Really helps me seeswirls from all angles

I use so many different machines, these are just a small selection. I still favour rotary machines for cutting and flex is my go to brand, but im not a fan of their 15mm machine

I use a few different ones, I much prefer rotary machines to cut, and refine out with 15mm or even 12mm when the paint is a bit sensitive

She was nice for sure

Happy to help!

It was a game changer when I started doing it

Try feynlab pure rinseless also, both work, feynlab has far superior cleaning power

I would always follow with a wipedown product of some description, especially after onr. There are mild polymers that you really want to fully remove

More than welcome, glad it was helpful

It was lovely to work with, I enjoyed it

I appreciate that dude thank you. And I do to! It's a great interior product also I think, for plastics etc. Don't really need to dry it off either, just let it flash

Many thanks Yeah I have zero issues finishing with a rotary, but as I get older and the pressure of business increases, the reality is a random orbital removes any chance of leaving a hologram I may miss, and is without question a quicker way to refine. So from a risk over reward thing I do it less and less now. Right car, right job, absolutely and I still think it does add "something" more

You know the score, all dark and moody here as usual lol

Appreciate you Adam thank you, you too

Yes it was koch chemie h9.02 and feynlab A50

@@ObsidianDetailing Many thanks for the reply, appreciate it 👍👍👍

Well done that man! So fascinating and informative. What pad did you use for the primer polish? The White one?

I appreciate that, and I am the same, joinery videos pull me in lol, no idea why

Appreciate you ted

Someone has to work so everyone else feels like its a holiday lol

Bless you I appreciate that.

Yes any will do, but I feel feynlab cleans the best of all I have tested, but really any will do more than non at all

I appreciate that. I am really really pushing honesty where possible, too many associate any form of a hologram to low skill as they have never actually tried a rotary for any work at all. I want more people to be open to trying new things

hey dude, feynlab A50. Its wicked I think, not cheap, but it has more cut than koch chemie with an equally good finish

Thanks for the kind words. Gyeon primer is my go to for very soft paints too so I am surprised you are having such a hard time. What machine are you using, throw size etc? And is it single stage paint or colour clear?

@@ObsidianDetailing In2Detailing forced rotation machine 8mm throw. Tornado red paint with clear coat so not single stage. The finish isn’t terrible but there’s definite hazing under bright light. I have some Rupes white pads I could try and also a normal free spinning DA in case the forced rotation machine is too aggressive for finishing.

I really like the lake country ccs pads on a forced rotation machine. They were originally designed for the 3401. The black pad is firm enough, but still soft. Great for primers. If you go to a regular random orbital the smaller the throw the better 👌

@@ObsidianDetailing oh great , I have a black ccs pad. I will give it a go this weekend. Thanks for the help.

Hey there, yes of course. If I understand the question correctly, the usual way people see compounding is to do a small area, remove that, do another area, remove that, and finish a panel that way. But if the compound you use is a modern quality one there really is no need to do this. As long as it has been fully broken down, and is thin enough for you to see through it, its just as easy to continue to work, and then remove in one go when the panel is compounded. The residue below will not really effect the capability of what you apply next If you are asking with regards to a finishing polish over a broken down compound, again this is going to be compound dependant, but you "can" polish over a broken down compound without it effecting the polishes effectiveness or finish, but it is important to use a compound that breaks down very very fine, koch chemie H9.02, feynlab a50 or something similar will work well if you want to test it out. If I have misunderstood the question please let me know I will do my best to answer further

@@ObsidianDetailing sorry for my bad english :( your information too great with me. I meant when you polish, i see you not polish till clear compound on paint surface.

Many many thanks I appreciate it

You certainly could! Absolutely. But you know what comes next lol, "if you use 2 buckets, why not 3, with grit guards". And if 3 why not 4! Detailing is one of those types of activities. My way has always been to see a problem and look for simple, quick, cheap solutions that overcome them. I wanted a way to better mobilise broken down residue off the panel, and leave less behind, and for me 1 bucket of solution has transformed my work. For what it's worth I replace it after each stage of polishing so may use 2 or even 3 clean solutions. But if someone wanted to use 2 or more buckets I would tip my hat to them for sure, not judge them

what comes next ...don't be silly , wringing out a dirty rag into clean water is the question , a simple question and you make it into what comes next ....what comes next is you saying sorry for a stupid answer that should have read ..yes .@@ObsidianDetailing

@patrickgagnon9662 you have completely misunderstood the tone of my comment and I think taken it personally. It was more a light hearted remark about detailing and detailers in general. And I mistook your statement of fact as a question. No, I "shouldn't" ring it into a different bucket, unless I want to, then yes I absolutely should. YOU should use as many buckets as you think will give you the best results for your use case, but I do highly recommend you use at least one, that way you are still cleaning to an infinitely better level than non at all which is the common way to do it and how the vast majority of detailers still do it.

I may have taken that wrong ...sorry . But having two buckets is the way and not to mention that to us newbies is not right , if you can't see that , and tell us this simple fact of the matter ...two buckets is the way ....full stop !@@ObsidianDetailing

Again, you are free to do what you feel is required. I have no idea your experience level, or how many cars you have polished and or coated, nor do I know your processes and products, but before you make an assumption based off of limited knowledge I really do recommend you give this a try next time you do, and see just how much better it is than no solution at all. And then try it with 2 buckets and experience how it makes no difference to the effectiveness of the job. The mechanism here is to simply use the solution to clean out the cloth rather than to let it collect in the fibres, each time you ring it out it comes out cleaner if you hadn't done it, and the damp cloth mobilises the broken down residue far far better than a dry cloth. But again I am a big believer in people doing what they feel is best for them! So even if you try a single bucket, then 2, and 2 makes you feel more comfortable I have achieved my goal of people trying new things and testing things for themselves. I understand that what you are saying makes sense to you, believe me I do, and I have of course tried it as it's a logical experiment. But this is my method based on being hands on with hundreds of cars, and assessing the results I get. 2 or more buckets has genuinely made no advancements for me in terms of residue control, panel cleanliness, filler removal or coating adhesion so 1 bucket is my method and the method I still stand by personally. As long as others will at least play with, and adjust it as a starting point, I am more than happy

They are just led spotlights, think a swirl inspection lamp, but lots of them! Really really helps to give defects nowhere to hide

My pleasure dude

Its boring I know, but its a must

@@ObsidianDetailing the ones that know they have ears to listen, they will use them :)))

It's a very easy coating to use, I used to love it for single stage paints. But in all honesty the long term results were always very poor for me. I would be told it was my fault, but it's not. When they had opticoat 2.0 as their retail product they had the BEST freely available coating on the market. Glosscoat is not a patch on it from a functionality or durability standpoint, but uber easy to use

Appreciated as always ian

Yes according to the manufacturers themselves it can. Just leave a little timecand clean again before hand