วีดีโอ

🍻💯🤘

Yes sir! Can't wait to showcase what's happening soon!

@@CityscapeBrewing awesome I love mine I doubt I'll ever go back since went 220

They are not sprouted. They are roasted or malted. I've heard of people using sprouted grains, even roasting them too, but there is risk of contamination and other gluten material in there.

Gracias!

Hoping cans to go with the designers labels, but not sure yet! I'll let people know when we get closer.

I did show the brewing in this video, only briefly because I wanted to talk more bout the event, but the process and recipe are in the video. 🤘🍻

Oh, haha. I was referring to brewing on the brewery pilot system. Would be cool to see.

@@robertkohnen3047 oh yes. Definitely! That will be happening for sure! 😂 🍻

Thanks!! 🍻

Haha. Not quite, but I try! Thanks 🍻

@@CityscapeBrewing Two years in a row doesn’t lie! You are the man! 🍺

No need to be nervous at all. Happy to help out with any questions you have. That's what my channel is all about. Leave questions in the comments or join my live streams on my channel every other Sunday night! I answer any question live! 🍻🤘

@@CityscapeBrewing have you ever heard of Brewer's Best extract kits? I'm in Canada and I am thinking that would be a good spot to start. Very clear instructions, reasonably priced. I thought about going with a American light lager, and after trying the Mexican Cerveza. Maybe when I'm more comfortable I can try changing up recipes a bit. Thanks for your great videos!

@Jaycar-n8d I would not do a lager for your first beer or until you have temperature control during fermentation. Lager yeast needs to be fermented at about 55 degrees. My recommendation is to start with an ale and/or use a kviek yeast if you can, like lutra or voss kviek.

One thing I'm not sure on, is secondary fermentation optional but will produce a cleaner and tastier beer? And also, how do I know it's time to end primary and start secondary fermentation? I've watch a lot of your videos and then I see others where it's saying secondary can cause more problems with oxygen. If you didn't do secondary fermentation, I'm thinking the primary one would be done longer? I like your videos and you make everything easy to understand, I just want to be correct on timing, thank you for your help!

@Jaycar-n8d Great question! It is definitely optional, and I currently don't do a secondary unless I'm adding fruit or something else that I need to remove the yeast. I would leave the beer in the first primary vessel first for a week after fermentation completes. If you need to use a secondary, I would not transfer it to the second vessel until fermentation is complete by at least 3 days.

Thanks! 💯

Agreed. It has a lot of hop oils and you can still get that citrus, melon, and floral flavors from them for sure! 🍻🤘

Do it!!! So good!

🍻💯🤘

Thanks! I will correct that! Good Catch!

Yes, light colored and hoppy profile on Brewer's friend, which is ca=75 mg=5 Na=10 cl=150 so4=150. PH was 5.3

Awesome! You're welcome. It's a good one! Let me know how it turns out! 🍻

Will Do, I look forward to experiencing the Homey Malt

Starts in the first 12 hours if you ramp up the harvested yeast starter like I did in the other video. I typically do about 3-6 bottles of yeast in about a cup of wort for three days, then ramp up to a 1 liter starter after that for another 3 days or until it fully ferments and drops out. I've done that about 10 different times and each one turned out great. Let me know if you have any other questions. 🍻

@@CityscapeBrewing Thanks for your reply, very helpful.

I've never had a hazy go clear. Most haze is actually from yeast choice more than oats or other fermentables. Also, the blow off depends on the yeast if it is top or bottom fermenting. My hazy ipas all smell like a citrus bomb. Brew it and find out 🍻🤘

Yeast plays a huge roll in a hazy beer but so do hop polyphenols . I don’t understand why you would use a bottom fermenting yeast in a hazy. Also most ale strains will convert geraniol into citranellol during biotransformation. If you want to get the true characteristics of an individual hop is best to dry hop after fermentation is complete. I highly recommend reading the Scott janish new ipa book. Laura burns from omega labs wrote a great article regarding haze stability. Cheers.

Exactly, you answered your own question. You want the biotransformation of the hop oils, such as geraniol to citronellol, during fermentation. This is what separates Hazy IPAs from other hoppy beers. We aren't trying to get the typical hop character, we're trying to pull out those different flavors by using a yeast that will biotransform the flavors to those citrusy or fruity flavors. If you want to dry hop after fermentation is fully complete, you can definitely do that to get the typical hop aromas, but what makes the hazy truly unique is by adding hops during biotransformation. Again, I've never had a hazy IPA that went clear, so the stability has not been an issue at all. I'm not saying she is wrong, but I've personally never experienced it.

Whirlpool will extract enough oils to make it past fermentation if applying the right hops. You want to retain the aromatic compounds to blow them off. Cheers

Yeah there's been old yeast revived from Egyptian fermentation vessels from hundreds of years ago. Crazy, but definitely needed a starter after only 9 months.

@@CityscapeBrewing I had a tiny vial of oktoberfest yeast, surprised how much it built up

It works really well to clarify in about 24-36 hours. It will also help drop out any hops and proteins to clean up the taste a bit too! 🍻🤘

Soda is generally 25-30 PSI refrigerated.

Line length can make your beer foamy too. I recommend about 10-12 psi for serving, and about 8-10 feet of serving line per keg. This gives friction to the beer going through the line and slows it down, while still keeping the beer at the right carbonation level. Check out my kegerator video to see how I coil my lines inside my fridge here: th-cam.com/video/wpPBKkak9PA/w-d-xo.html

😂💯🍻

No need to boil but I wouldn't use campden tablet before adding water to the yeast or you will kill the yeast. Just use spring water, RO/distilled water, or filtered water.

Depending on your fermenter, you may have a spigot to connect to and not need to open the lid, however with glass carboys that need a racking cane, that isn't as easy. This isn't 100% closed, but if careful, leaves the blanket of CO2 inside the carboy and doesn't introduce much oxygen. It's all about limiting oxygen, there are breweries that still have open fermenters that don't oxidize their beer, as long as they are careful. 🍻

That's only when it's slightly over carbonated. When you leave a keg at 30 to 40 PSI for several days longer than you needed to.. it would take days or even weeks to get it back by only pulling pints or pressure. I've done this more times than I care to admit so I know that it works, and fast.

@@CityscapeBrewing fair point, I'm stingy with co2 bottles. I never set my regulator over 1 bar/15psi

It works very well. There's a whole other video on how to make it on my channel 🍻💯

🍻💯🤘

You can still use the websites for their target water profiles and select that you are using RO water. Works the same way. However, unless you have bad water for brewing, you can save money not buying an RO system and just getting a water report and plugging in the numbers at the top. The calculations are the same after that and you generally will use less salts. Virtually no breweries use RO systems, because it would be way too expensive, they just adjust the water the same way. But either way is completely fine. and works.

No the diacetyl rest needs to be done before bottling. It needs the full yeast cake or there won't be enough yeast left in each bottle to consume it. Raising the temp reactivates the yeast and makes it more active. Once the yeast has dropped oxidation actually is a huge problem, because it won't be in suspension any longer. You want to be as careful as you can when transferring to eliminate splashing.

​@CityscapeBrewing it's not only my own 15 year of homebrewing experience, it's everywhere if you search for it online. Only a lager stays 2 or 3 weeks fermenting on my setup.

I agree, depending on the yeast style. I am in Europe right now and did a tour yesterday at Pilsener Urquell in Pilzen Czech Republic (video coming soon). They do not raise temp, except for shipped beers overseas, since they have to pasteurize those. With that said, certain lager yeast strains definitely need a diacetyl rest and while it may not always be necessary, it will never hurt to do one. I've tasted plenty of bottled homebrew with diacetyl, which could have been prevented, which is the reason it was in the video. There are plenty of different ways, but I have to put out videos for the masses.

I wouldn't worry about the contact time with hops. It will be fine for several weeks. After you package you may have to wait a few days, up to a week at cold temps to drop out any hop burn. Using paint strainer bags for hops really helps eliminate that, or at least reduces hip burn. 🍻🤘

🍻💯