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I agree. Intermediate syndrome is real. I was fortunate to be with a great group that would watch out for each other. With the more experienced pilots recommending of conditions that would be acceptable for my experience. I advanced fairly quickly and was advised to be careful about Intermediate syndrome. I appreciated his concern and have seen accidents resulting from it. I was lucky enough to have escaped unharmed. But now as a wiser ?H4 I'm not as bold as i was. If it doesn't feel right I can just pass for the day. Maybe the free flight addiction is less than it used to be, or I have matured in my flying. PIO is real when stepping up to a dual surface glider. I only experienced it once but it got my attention for 10 seconds that seemed longer. As Page used to say Stay safe, get high and fly far!

Mine still going strong several years later ....

well you have one option or 2 shouldn't really matter it's in the engine valley. Older GM engines the original style small block 5.7 and tbi 5.7 have the Knock sensor are on the side of the block Is passenger side i believe it's been a while. Even before obd2 it's just code 52 I think i can't remember that far back. Most of the time that code was for a wiring problem l the sensor I believe that you are correct sir that 1 in the engine Valley should be able to hear Knox and paings. Then adjust the timing appropriate. Remember there are 8 cylinders so if you have a reduced octane fuel under a high engine load that 1 sensor is going to pick it up for the 4 cylinders it is supposed to sense it for. LS is kind of a oddball design because those sensors are in line front and rear they call them bank 1 bank 2 but they Don't sit on each side of the engine as is bank 1 bank 2. Is so theory as to reason. I've been doing this for a long time that if you have one function you're nonsense or it can hear the knock from the back half or the front half of the block that is designed to hear the rest of the cylinders will be under the same Conditions and load. My highly educated 26 years as a professional technician owning my own shop and used to have a California smart license but lead me to believe that this Is work around for work just fine. I have had issues on trucks where I had the intake manifold off to fix the lower Is valley seal that was leaking. Replace the nonsense just to do do diligent. As I know these are an issue the front one was full of water surprise. So I cleaned it up replaced it and now I have A Knock center code from the front Sensor that comes and goes. Is that Whole whether nonsense or recesses into the block was extremely rusty when I did the original repair now I'm having issues this is the perfect fix for these issues.

12:19 I’m at my wit’s end!!! I’ve replaced both knock sensors, had code for sensor 1, but since I had intake off, I figured might as well do both. Bought set of both sensors and harness, replaced intake gasket only to have problem remain!! Figured a had defective parts so exchanged set of sensors and harness, so I’ve done it twice now. Problem remained!! Figured it must be wiring problem so did continuity tests from ECM plug to connecting plug for each knock sensor and checked out ok. Did resistance check from ECM plug to crank case and I’m getting approx 100K ohms for each knock sensor. Why am I still getting P0327??? Is my ECM bad? I’m contemplating doing this solution but I would prefer to fix it the right way…….

Both of my wires are blue. One dark

Learn how to film in wide screen. Narrow screen is for really dumb posters.

Did this and the code came right back. Total failure.

Bro thanks that actually pretty smart thanks we need more people like you

I did this and the crud that came out the tale pipe 😂 it looked like a old school diesel. It started running much better and more mileage.

The only bad part about this is when the other knock sensor fails and I am sure it will eventually, then you are screwed. This is just a temporary fix.

Inside that sensor electrical connector you can place a small jumper inside snap it back together and reset codes. I did this 2 years ago took 10 min and no more check engine light.

4\16\24 about to try it and I'll report back! Looking at the comments I'll say thank you ahead

And if your towing or pushing hard and get bad fuel expect detonation and probably piston damage. Its actually a 2 hr repair siting on the radiator support straddling the engine.

Thank you for you help I was locking for a wonderful video and I find you ❤

And what happens with the other knock sensor that remains disconnected?

well i know what im doing today lol dont need to bc its a dually 2 door but im not spending $60 plus time either lol

I should try, but i would change out oil soon after that cause that seems like it could break down the oil.

next is cataclean

*1) Take out the spare tire.* *2) Replace the tailgate with a fabric alternative.* *3) Remove coins, floor mats, tools, and/or other junk not being used.* *4) Replace the hood with a lighter alternative.* *5) Get under there, and knock off all of that excessive rust rotting away the frame/body.* *6) Replace steel wheels to lighter alternative.* *7) Grind a groove just behind the butterfly valve, for fuel/air atomization increase.* You will see some serious gains in MPG if you do all 7 of these, but the biggest single gain will come from #7 if you get the depth & position of the groove _just_ right.

Thank you

💯💯💯💯💯

Nice!!

I have a knocking noise but no trouble code. Can I eliminate the knock sensors by unplugging the sensors and running the truck? Just to see if the knocking goes away.

I did this and I am still getting a code for bank 1 . I don’t know how that’s possible

All these people wondering why they blew holes in their piston 20K miles later.

Aye Sam I have both codes p0327 and p0332 I’ve replaced both knock sensors and even a brand new wire harness and it still both codes pop on any suggestions 😞

If you do not notice engine is knocking...please have your hearing checked.

Thank you for the video! Isn’t bank two in the back and bank one in the front ?

So what exactly do you think would happen if you buypass both of the knock sensors

My question is I’m doing a ls swap and keeping the fuel injection system can I just remove the knock sensors and put a new valley cover without the holes or is there more that needs to be done

Great video thanks for putting out on TH-cam. I’m headed to town now and gonna pick up some carb cleaner and try this on my 2005 Toyota echo. Hope it works thanks again 🤙🍀✨

I just replaced both sensors and after a day the same code for bank 2 came up. Both sensors I put in were AC delco. If I do this does this just defeat the whole purpose of the knock sensor?

Will this work on a TBI 1988 c/k1500 5.0 Happy New Year

Did this hack, check engine light came back, saying bank one now low volt. Any help with this?

In olden times the knock sensor was our ears if you were a tuner of engines. The extra stuff added to today’s engines makes them more complicated in an effort to discourage diy auto repairs. The high octane timing tables are so low in timing that removing the knock sensors will probably not ever harm these engines. Best of luck to all. Thanks for these informative videos!

Hello, my truck got the P0332 code about 2 weeks ago and i ordered the knock sensors and new wires. Im still waiting for the wires to get delivered but I wanted to ask if this is a permanent fix?

Great job man

Snake oil

The dry intake is not a bitch to do, also doing this opens the potential for more problems. Do the repair right by ensuring the circuit is good and replace both knock sensors. Dont jerry rig electrical circuits.

Wow I have a 2000 civic & this is the problem why it failed smog check, I had already cleaned it, but kept lighting idle code, I will try the “ remove screw & insert small screwdriver & wiggle to sweet spot “ I appreciate this video Sir. Thank you

True cerebral thinker....well done Very informative 👏

Silly question: How did you modify the nozzle straw?

I have the same "bank 2" code. I'll be doing this weekend. Thanks 👍

hello sweet video!!! what should the resistance be from the ecm harness?? thank you

I replaced both knock sensor and cables and im still getting the code P0332 did new sparkplugs no luck. Its 2004 yukon 4.8

Nice video. Just watched it.

2001 on two wires into one... replace on outside...

I had a lifter thaf was sticking when my 02 avalanche hydroseized on me i replaced the intake gaskets thats when I discovered the knock sensors mine were rusted and corroded so I left them as is i went on and put all parts back on without replacing the knock sensor thats been over a yr. Now and setting at 348,000 and my daily driver id say the knock sensor does not effect the way the motors runs.

Good news. My Sons just used the truck to tow a 2 ton boat from Mass. To South Caroline in June. No problems with knock sensor or engine performance. Transmission crapped out, but thats a different issue entirely. I stand behind this solution 100% at this point. Truck now has 157k mile on it. At least 10k miles since I did this.

Thank you Mr. Sam! You sure made my day and made it possible for my family to take a vacation. Your modification got me running without worry! Will look at the system when I get home!