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@FollowTheFood Well, instead of the neutral safety switch, you look for the clutch switch that's located on your clutch pedal. bracket.

@@roycerichards8629 Thank you, I appreciate your comment.

@Joshua_Hammer.777 I think. If it was me and it looked good with low mileage, I would do it, but I would want to make sure they would take it back if it didn't work. What would be good if you could take it to some place that can test it with it off the car, like a starter Alternator., rebuilder or one of the Part.houses.

@Otobokebeaver No, I think it's mostly a Turbo charge engine, and the volt is not. I could pull my dipstick slightly out and the engine was stalled. Thank you for your question.

@@NobleAutomotive ok because AutoZone said this regarding the valve cover: Related repair - this valve cover often fails due to a faulty intake manifold; also replace manifold if it is missing PCV valve

@@ryanortega7053 Did you jump the compressor at the relay? If you jump it at the relay and your Compressor engages. harness is good going to your compressor it should run no matter how much Refrigerant. are any of the other sensors are good or not.

@@NobleAutomotiveI did not jump from relay. I jumped from low pressure switch. All sensors have been replaced

@ryanortega7053 The ECM controls the relay. So, do you have a check engine light? Do you have a scanner that will read the engine temperature? If so, the temperature must be below 250, and I think above 40° before it allowed the compressor to run, and I think around 270 before it'll set a code for overtemp And does your temperature gauge seem normal?

I do not have a check engine light I’m sure I can get get my hands on a scanner…. Temp gauge seems normal. Needle lands right before half way point

@@ryanortega7053 I don't know if you've seen my other videos. But this video shows you how to jump across your relay.th-cam.com/video/KePp_vsRjqc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=H1DROCE81WX0lmFW

LOL🤣

@@Afrattzz1 Thank you, sir.

@@tylerjohnson1776 Here's a link. To my other video concerning your condition.th-cam.com/video/KePp_vsRjqc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mHLzfwVi5LvpMuNS

Sense how the crank fuse sends power to, the neutral safety switch. I would think they shouldn't be any power on the neutral safety switch to that pin, they'll be power coming to the neutral safety switch for other things such as back up lights. Have you tried it with the relay out? Have you tried in any other gear besides park? Is this a 2001 1500?

The circuit for the low pressure switch didn't actually go to the ECM on your model. It goes to the control head inside your cab. What I would do with it plugged in and engine running I would take one side of my meter to the good ground. Set my voltage to 20 V scale with the engine running and probe each side to see. I should near zero voltage less than a half a volt if you're getting volts more than .5 V then the pressure switch is open. In most cases that indicate low refrigerant You can also take your meter set it to the lowest scale on resistance unplug the switch check from one side of the switch to the other side with you two probes and you should get very low resistance if your resistance is high, you either got a bad switch or low refrigerant. If this checks OK, then your problem is somewheres else.in

Thanks for the reply. I have no resistance in the switch and truck running the blue wire to the low pressure is .150-.180 and .000 on the black wire. I have lights on the control I've actually switched it with a different control and nothing changed. Also the fans don't kick on with the ac. Don't know if that means anything or not? Thanks for your help!

Thank you, appreciate you.

Thank you

Very good Nice job.

Thank you.

Thank you very much

You are welcome. I hope it helps.

I bought it used so it didn't have the bracket. It's funny you should say so. Because the coolant got low enough. I got an isolation fault, which I'm investigating now even after filling it up with cooling. I still have an isolation fault, and I did check the battery drain and found no moisture in the battery.

Thank you for watching and thank you for your comment.

Thank you.

Thank you, and thank you for your comment.

Have you checked ignition C fuse under the hood fuse block this fuse actually feeds the ignition switch to the ECM as well as the starter ignition crank circuit Ignition 1 relay actually powers up ECM 1 fuse

Thank you.

You are welcome.

Be sure to check your fuel filter. Cause it might be trying to stop up. You're not getting enough flow.

@@NobleAutomotive new filter too I thought it might ve been that but it ain't still.same pressures . I think it's m y pump

@@joeroe2839 Yeah, does sound that way or there's Screen. on the bottom of the pump sucking together? Either way, it's a new pump.

@@NobleAutomotive yess sir ima have to get it warrantied new parts are not the same nomore 😪 thanx for answering!!! God bless

@@joeroe2839 You are welcome.

Also very clear and consice video. Well shot great detail. Very informative and descriptive. 👍

It's just highly recommended if you replace it as well then. Usually, you've got a 100000 miles before. You have to do it again? I would be sure the Pulley is tight. And there's no coolant leaks from the weep hole. I personally wouldn't do it without replacing a water pump.

Slowly doing this job for my son inlaw. Engine mount bolts siezed and snapped off

@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh I have been there of course I work for Toyota. I just ordered a new bracket, but it looks like Amazon has them in stock for about 50 bucks. That would be the only way I know to go unless you wanna go eBay and get a used one. Sometimes it's just unavoidable. Sorry.

@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh been there myself it's been a while, but I I worked for Toyota so I just ordered new one and the bolts. I don't really know what they cost, but that's only option.

I would check the Ignition switch and see if that power is coming into and coming out of it Because.Ignition fuse feeds directly from the Ignition switch. This fuse feeds power to the neutral safety switch. So you need power to this fuse before it goes to the neutral safety switch. You can't have power to your neutral safety switch until you have power to this fuse first. I would especially check the connection on the Ignition switch.

@@NobleAutomotive that makes perfect sense, thank you!!! I shall check that tomorrow, pray for me that I find the problem ❤️

@@dalatina911 I will, and you are welcome.

Does everything turn on when you turn your switch on you? Might check your Ignition. switch fuses.

@@NobleAutomotive you mean when I turn the key? Yes, dash lights come on and everything else but no crank no start - but after following your video, I found that the #85 pin on the starter relay also has no power when turning the key to start. I’m not really good at following the wiring diagram stuff, but I was thinking I should check the ignition switch next? All other fuses are good, except the crank fuse and the #85 pin on starter relay (:

@@dalatina911 Now, do you have the crank fuse power to it when you try to crank?

The 20 amp Ignition c fuse under the hood feeds Ignition. Switch to the 10 amp at your Dash outside out to that pin.

@@NobleAutomotive no sir, it does not have power when I crank the engine. You want me to swap the 20amp Ignition C fuse with the crank fuse? Just wanna make sure I understand correctly haha the ignition c fuse has power

Now the color coming out of your neutral safety switch to pin 85 of your starter relay should be yellow and the color going to your neutral safety switch coming from your crank fuse should purple with a white strap, or it may look pink. So I take it that you have no power on pin 85?

They are actually both purple. Lol I looked at three diagram with a connector view so both pin 11 &12 are ignition in and out so the out changes to a yellow/black stripe at the relay I pulled up the fuse box

I'm having same issue, everything tests good except for the nss pin. I just put a transmission in this thing and it was starting fine before now I get nothing at the key. All fuses and pins are doing what they're supposed to except for 85

So I did have a green wire out to computer the wire diagram I had was not right

@@wncrcandoffroad3919 sometimes a neutral safety switch pigtail is so hard to push in. I wonder if you've got it all the way inserted. Are you using the same neutral safety switch to come off your old transmission?

Thank you.

I love that you took this much time and passion to write this article on the repair in my video. I do appreciate all your input as I'm sure anybody else that reads it. Thank you so much for your contribution.

yes it was the gaskets. After sitting for a couple days i would see a spot under the front of the truck then when I took a closer look, I seen where it was actually coming from between the pump and the block thank you for your question

Autozone's where I got mine for a $125.

Was that each or for 2​@@NobleAutomotive

@@basilmacgill I got mine for 125 at autozone.

I see it in newton meters Thank you

Have you cleaned your Throttle body? Do you have a check engine light on?

@@NobleAutomotive it’s not mine I went to go look at it, and I don’t think he’s cleaned the throttle body and the check engine light is on.

@Juan-je4re Yes, we need to see what the check engine light is. And if the throttle body is dirty, then it is probably dropping below the base idle

Did you change the harness to.

All combustion engines will have exhaust gas and unburned fuel slip past the rings causing a positive pressure in the crankcase . The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) systems job is to keep the crankcase at an neutral point. We don't wont positive or negative pressure. Negative pressure (vacuum) in our case. Outside air being pulled around the seal. Leading to premature seal failure, unmetered air (Higher fuel trim) sometimes lean code. Unfiltered air dirt and moisture being pulled thew the seal. and noise. Sorry to answer question Yes It has no control of how much vacuum it lets in. PCV don't let the air out like old school but vacuums the crankcase pressure back thru the engine out the exhaust for better air quality. By now you maybe sorry you asked but i love it. Hop this helped THANK YOU!

I appreciate the lengthy reply. I was going to change the valve cover, but because everyone thinks thinks they hear noise at the crank, it's going to the dealer, because I'm not sure I want to a crank seal replacement. Which is sad, because we know they will charge a lot of money, and may end up replacing the valve cover.

Yes, there's TSB that to replace the crank seal. I hadn't replaced mine yet, but after replacing the PCV system, I will still hear it slightly from time to time.

​​@@NobleAutomotivewhat was that silicone you were talking about? Didn't look like you used any gasket sealer, just a black silicone? NM, I see you said elsewhere that you use RTV.

Yeah, that's just where the front cover meets the head. Put A small amount of RTV or silicone, just a small dab. But none on the rest of the gasket. Usually, you can see where old gasket material is like silicone. Clean the old material off. And that's where I put a A small amount.. where the 2 pieces meet each other, because the rubber won't go down in the seams

thank you !

Also question... I installed a new started and trying to see if it's my ignition switch that's failing or it is something else so I'm in the same situation... I got a donor 2000 Silverado just like the one I have so should I try to take the ignition switch off of that truck and put it in the one I'm working on to see if that will let me start my truck or should I? I don't know anything else you could tell me

Here is a link to check your ignition switch. time at 2:09 So you wont have to pull any parts. you also check your neutral safety switch th-cam.com/video/FdfZUrgYF-8/w-d-xo.html