Best electrical tutorial I have ever watched! I bet in this video there is more easily understandable facts per minute than any other video. And after hearing him explain every phase of the diagnosing anybody could do it because he explains it so simple and so well. Thank you sir for your awesome video! I'm going to subscribe to see what else you got
DANG! This is the most informative walk through of a crank no start I've seen yet. Very thorough and easy to follow. Thank you for putting this together!
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge James, this video is just what I needed to trouble shoot a no crank situation on a 2002 Chevy Express...
@@NobleAutomotive I was able to pinpoint a bad starter relay. I changed it out for a new one and the van started right up! Problem now is the security light on the dash is on. It's not blinking it's just on constantly?
Great info. Also check y’all’s fuel pump ground behind the gas cap on frame where bed and cab meet . You will see a dirty connection more than likely . This was my intermittent no start no crank . Problem fixed will sand paper cranks everytime now .
Hey did you clean yours. I have a 2000 Silverado? I see the one under the door they say leads to the fuel pump is very dirty. Then there is a braided strap that is broken from bed to frame like you said that is super rusted and dirty. Hopefully that's it. Cranks but wont start. Is getting fuel. Spark. New plugs. New distributor cap.
Yes the one on the frame where the bed and back glass meet let’s rain cause rust and bad connection . 2 wires secured by a bolt go to full pump the braided line goes to the filler neck . Take all three off and sand them clean and the frame and tighten back down the nut and washer . Don’t worry about the other end behind gas filler neck
Thanks for sharing this post. It was a clear explanation for me. My issue is the starter fuse inside the cab has no power the fuse box does work though.
2002 CHEVY SUBURBAN …Just in case anyone was having this problem . No crank no start …… fuel and battery gauges flip up still like it’s going to start and then dead silence . Replaced starter and back on the rd . Also when it went out couple issues I had was I tried jumping it one more time with a flat head and it blew the 40 amp fuse which caused the gas and battery gauge to stop flipping up when key was turned to on position . Lastly the replacement starter I purchased was longer than the original . So if you ran into that problem just know it will ….. I repeat will fit so don’t worry . Hope I helped someone as I searched every video looking for someone with the same issue on their suburban or if the larger one would fit and could t find not one video .
Thank you. Hit it with a hammer and it fired right up. Not like the last 13 minute video that basically just wasted 13 minutes of my life that I will never get back.
Also question... I installed a new started and trying to see if it's my ignition switch that's failing or it is something else so I'm in the same situation... I got a donor 2000 Silverado just like the one I have so should I try to take the ignition switch off of that truck and put it in the one I'm working on to see if that will let me start my truck or should I? I don't know anything else you could tell me
Here is a link to check your ignition switch. time at 2:09 So you wont have to pull any parts. you also check your neutral safety switch th-cam.com/video/FdfZUrgYF-8/w-d-xo.html
Got a 05 sierra with a 4.3 it started by not starting after driving it one night and now it has no crank no start just stopped turning over,has power to starter but no power to 30 on relay but there is on other pin on that side of relay can’t remember number,also no power to crank fuse when turning key forward trying to crank I’m just a parts changer not a mechanic any ideas on what else to check I’ve tried everything
Wish I could find a mechanic that knows the electrical system of my Chevy like you do! Have had mechanics replace parts that never needed to be replaced and still had the same problems. Then they replaced more parts that again weren’t bad and didn’t need to be replaced. Still have the same problem. Naturally these mechanics not only want you to pay for all their wasted time not fixing the problem, but of course they want you to pay for all the new parts they put on your vehicle that you never needed in the first place! I’m a contractor by trade and if I make a mistake I don’t have my customers pay me more money to fix whatever I did wrong? Not to mention customers were scream to high heaven if I attempted to change them extra. Which I certainly not blame them! Mechanics need to pay for their own mistakes too. Not the customer! Far as I’m concerned if Mechanic puts on a part my vehicle didn’t need. Mechanic can take it off and put my part back on as his own expense not mine! Or leave the new part on and eat the cost of the new part himself. Mechanic choice? Tired of stupid mechanics that think customers have to pay for their stupidity. Had a friend that had a truck that kept driving on him. Took it to several mechanic shops that kept replacing expensive parts and most those parts would have nothing to do with the engine dying every so often. Told my friend to change his fuel filter, but my friend didn’t listen to me, he kept trusting these mechanics instead. Wasted a whole year and over a grand in repairs costs and still his truck kept dying every so often. Finally out of no other choices left open for him to try, he finally changed the fuel filter as I suggested over a year earlier and that fixed the problem. A cheap fuel filter that maybe took a hour to replace if that and these mechanics took him for every penny they could. For example, who puts in a new started for a vehicle that starts just fine? The engine was dying! Nothing to do with the starter, but mechanics still replaced the starter anyway! Go figure? Why I have a extremely hard time trusting any mechanic these days. Most seem to be incompetent not really knowing what their doing!
This is great information and explained very well ❤ I’m having this issue with my grandma’s truck. I found that there is no power going to the crank fuse - I swapped the fuse twice and it still has no power while cranking the key. Any ideas on where to start with that?
@@NobleAutomotive you mean when I turn the key? Yes, dash lights come on and everything else but no crank no start - but after following your video, I found that the #85 pin on the starter relay also has no power when turning the key to start. I’m not really good at following the wiring diagram stuff, but I was thinking I should check the ignition switch next? All other fuses are good, except the crank fuse and the #85 pin on starter relay (:
@@NobleAutomotive no sir, it does not have power when I crank the engine. You want me to swap the 20amp Ignition C fuse with the crank fuse? Just wanna make sure I understand correctly haha the ignition c fuse has power
Thank you for this I’m am having this issue on my 00 6.0 where it start first thing in the morning but after I drive it around some and turn it off it won’t turn back on until the next day.
The starter solenoid cable is shorted to ground. Now before you unplug the solenoid look close at the wire and see if it rubbed against the engine or the frame. Unplug starter solenoid and check if your short goes away. If the short goes away your starter solenoid is bad if not solenoid cable is shorted to ground
Thank you very much. This issue started when the new starter was installed but went away when i removed the starter and checked the wires alone for constant power and crank power from the purple wire. Again thank you for your service!
2002 Silverado 5.3 Has anyone had an issue where the gauges are going nuts, dome light goes out key dinger comes and goes and when you jump 30 to 87 you get one click and all power is gone but then comes back? Sometimes dome is weak, sometimes bright. Sometimes dash lights come on some times don't. I cleaned all the grounds thinking I was losing ground. Any grounds under the dash for the ignition switch?
Did you put your volt meter on your battery bolts to make sure that it was at least 9 1/2 or above on your voltage while trying to crank? Stayed above 9 1/2 V then you know your battery is OK. Next I would move my positive lead of my voltmeter to one of the big buss fuses inside the engine fuse box 40 amp starter crank fuse and try to crank it again and see if I got a fluctuation near zero volts.
@@NobleAutomotive Loss of power is happening so fast not sure I could catch it. As soon as the solenoid clicks no power then relays start clicking like crazy, but I will try that tomorrow afternoon after work. Thanks for the reply. I'll comment back. I actually have to buy a new battery cuz I stripped the side post out, so that will definitely rule the battery out but it was at 12.6 during all of this.
@@NobleAutomotive So, I give up on life. I've dealt with 100's of batteries, it was the battery. Put in the new one and it fired right up. How can a battery show 12.6 show good on a battery charger and be bad? No, I don't have a load tester, yet. Getting one tomorrow. This will never happen to me again. Thanks again for the reply. Something must have broke inside the battery? Only 2 years old, no signs of going bad.
I have 05 Chevy Tahoe sometimes it cranks sometimes it does not replace the starter relay sometimes you can get it to crank by putting a wire to pin 87 and touching the positive terminal on the battery.. I tried to jump from 30 to 87 and it would not start ???Not sure what to do
It sounds to me like you've got a bad battery connection, either positive. Or? the negative. I would take and remove them and clean them very well, and you can even see if either one are loose or they've got a lot of Corrosion.
Let me know how this turns out because if you don't have power at 30. You shouldn't have power at Ignition a fuse A 40 amp. It should be located just above the starting relay to the left. There should be 2 60 amp fuse before it 🙄
Thanks for your comment and watching maybe I can do a video on the way I understand schematics. I get that at work when I'm helping a younger technician with something electrical.
Best electrical tutorial I have ever watched! I bet in this video there is more easily understandable facts per minute than any other video. And after hearing him explain every phase of the diagnosing anybody could do it because he explains it so simple and so well. Thank you sir for your awesome video! I'm going to subscribe to see what else you got
@@JaunDoctorinchargeMartinez Thank you, sir, a much appreciated comment.
DANG! This is the most informative walk through of a crank no start I've seen yet. Very thorough and easy to follow. Thank you for putting this together!
Thank you very much
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge James, this video is just what I needed to trouble shoot a no crank situation on a 2002 Chevy Express...
Thank you for taking your time to comment . You made the video worth making? Thank you.
@@NobleAutomotive I was able to pinpoint a bad starter relay. I changed it out for a new one and the van started right up! Problem now is the security light on the dash is on. It's not blinking it's just on constantly?
I appreciate this video and how well explained it is. It should definitely help! Thank you sir
I much appreciate your comment, THANK YOU 😊
Great info. Also check y’all’s fuel pump ground behind the gas cap on frame where bed and cab meet . You will see a dirty connection more than likely . This was my intermittent no start no crank . Problem fixed will sand paper cranks everytime now .
Thanks for the info and thank you for watching.
Hey did you clean yours. I have a 2000 Silverado? I see the one under the door they say leads to the fuel pump is very dirty. Then there is a braided strap that is broken from bed to frame like you said that is super rusted and dirty. Hopefully that's it. Cranks but wont start. Is getting fuel. Spark. New plugs. New distributor cap.
Yes the one on the frame where the bed and back glass meet let’s rain cause rust and bad connection . 2 wires secured by a bolt go to full pump the braided line goes to the filler neck . Take all three off and sand them clean and the frame and tighten back down the nut and washer . Don’t worry about the other end behind gas filler neck
Thanks for sharing this post. It was a clear explanation for me. My issue is the starter fuse inside the cab has no power the fuse box does work though.
2002 CHEVY SUBURBAN …Just in case anyone was having this problem . No crank no start …… fuel and battery gauges flip up still like it’s going to start and then dead silence . Replaced starter and back on the rd . Also when it went out couple issues I had was I tried jumping it one more time with a flat head and it blew the 40 amp fuse which caused the gas and battery gauge to stop flipping up when key was turned to on position . Lastly the replacement starter I purchased was longer than the original . So if you ran into that problem just know it will ….. I repeat will fit so don’t worry . Hope I helped someone as I searched every video looking for someone with the same issue on their suburban or if the larger one would fit and could t find not one video .
Thank you, that's all good to know.
Thank you. Hit it with a hammer and it fired right up. Not like the last 13 minute video that basically just wasted 13 minutes of my life that I will never get back.
Thank you 😊 for sharing this comment. I am very glad it helped
Good information James!
Thank you
Thank you Mr james
Thank you
Very informative thank you!
thank you !
Also question... I installed a new started and trying to see if it's my ignition switch that's failing or it is something else so I'm in the same situation... I got a donor 2000 Silverado just like the one I have so should I try to take the ignition switch off of that truck and put it in the one I'm working on to see if that will let me start my truck or should I? I don't know anything else you could tell me
Here is a link to check your ignition switch. time at 2:09 So you wont have to pull any parts. you also check your neutral safety switch th-cam.com/video/FdfZUrgYF-8/w-d-xo.html
Got a 05 sierra with a 4.3 it started by not starting after driving it one night and now it has no crank no start just stopped turning over,has power to starter but no power to 30 on relay but there is on other pin on that side of relay can’t remember number,also no power to crank fuse when turning key forward trying to crank I’m just a parts changer not a mechanic any ideas on what else to check I’ve tried everything
THANKS HOSS NOW I CAN CRANKS MY HAWG!!! GOBBLESS
Thank you for watching
Wish I could find a mechanic that knows the electrical system of my Chevy like you do! Have had mechanics replace parts that never needed to be replaced and still had the same problems. Then they replaced more parts that again weren’t bad and didn’t need to be replaced. Still have the same problem. Naturally these mechanics not only want you to pay for all their wasted time not fixing the problem, but of course they want you to pay for all the new parts they put on your vehicle that you never needed in the first place!
I’m a contractor by trade and if I make a mistake I don’t have my customers pay me more money to fix whatever I did wrong? Not to mention customers were scream to high heaven if I attempted to change them extra. Which I certainly not blame them! Mechanics need to pay for their own mistakes too. Not the customer! Far as I’m concerned if Mechanic puts on a part my vehicle didn’t need. Mechanic can take it off and put my part back on as his own expense not mine! Or leave the new part on and eat the cost of the new part himself. Mechanic choice? Tired of stupid mechanics that think customers have to pay for their stupidity. Had a friend that had a truck that kept driving on him. Took it to several mechanic shops that kept replacing expensive parts and most those parts would have nothing to do with the engine dying every so often. Told my friend to change his fuel filter, but my friend didn’t listen to me, he kept trusting these mechanics instead. Wasted a whole year and over a grand in repairs costs and still his truck kept dying every so often. Finally out of no other choices left open for him to try, he finally changed the fuel filter as I suggested over a year earlier and that fixed the problem. A cheap fuel filter that maybe took a hour to replace if that and these mechanics took him for every penny they could. For example, who puts in a new started for a vehicle that starts just fine? The engine was dying! Nothing to do with the starter, but mechanics still replaced the starter anyway! Go figure? Why I have a extremely hard time trusting any mechanic these days. Most seem to be incompetent not really knowing what their doing!
This is great information and explained very well ❤ I’m having this issue with my grandma’s truck. I found that there is no power going to the crank fuse - I swapped the fuse twice and it still has no power while cranking the key. Any ideas on where to start with that?
Does everything turn on when you turn your switch on you? Might check your Ignition. switch fuses.
@@NobleAutomotive you mean when I turn the key? Yes, dash lights come on and everything else but no crank no start - but after following your video, I found that the #85 pin on the starter relay also has no power when turning the key to start. I’m not really good at following the wiring diagram stuff, but I was thinking I should check the ignition switch next? All other fuses are good, except the crank fuse and the #85 pin on starter relay (:
@@dalatina911 Now, do you have the crank fuse power to it when you try to crank?
The 20 amp Ignition c fuse under the hood feeds Ignition. Switch to the 10 amp at your Dash outside out to that pin.
@@NobleAutomotive no sir, it does not have power when I crank the engine. You want me to swap the 20amp Ignition C fuse with the crank fuse? Just wanna make sure I understand correctly haha the ignition c fuse has power
So how do I check pin 85? No volts with key on or crank
Thank you for this I’m am having this issue on my 00 6.0 where it start first thing in the morning but after I drive it around some and turn it off it won’t turn back on until the next day.
Great thank you for watching and thank you for your comment
I’m having a no start problem just like that on my 2003 Silverado would love to have some help
I look and see what the differences is.
I’m gonna go through my truck like you did yours this weekend
I have 213 Chevy silverrado no crank no start some time it don't do it all the time love to know what is causing it
Question what comes to mind when you try to crank it, it blows the 40anp fuse every time for a no crank issue? 08 5.3l gm avalanche
The starter solenoid cable is shorted to ground.
Now before you unplug the solenoid look close at the wire and see if it rubbed against the engine or the frame.
Unplug starter solenoid and check if your short goes away.
If the short goes away your starter solenoid is bad if not solenoid cable is shorted to ground
Thank you very much. This issue started when the new starter was installed but went away when i removed the starter and checked the wires alone for constant power and crank power from the purple wire. Again thank you for your service!
@@Sonyman34 I am glad that I could help. Thank you
My IGN A fuse keeps on blowing as soon as I put the key all the way forward to crank. Tested starter and they said it was good. Any ideas?
Thank you
You are welcome. Thank you for watching.
2002 Silverado 5.3 Has anyone had an issue where the gauges are going nuts, dome light goes out key dinger comes and goes and when you jump 30 to 87 you get one click and all power is gone but then comes back? Sometimes dome is weak, sometimes bright. Sometimes dash lights come on some times don't. I cleaned all the grounds thinking I was losing ground. Any grounds under the dash for the ignition switch?
Did you put your volt meter on your battery bolts to make sure that it was at least 9 1/2 or above on your voltage while trying to crank?
Stayed above 9 1/2 V then you know your battery is OK. Next I would move my positive lead of my voltmeter to one of the big buss fuses inside the engine fuse box 40 amp starter crank fuse and try to crank it again and see if I got a fluctuation near zero volts.
@@NobleAutomotive Loss of power is happening so fast not sure I could catch it. As soon as the solenoid clicks no power then relays start clicking like crazy, but I will try that tomorrow afternoon after work. Thanks for the reply. I'll comment back. I actually have to buy a new battery cuz I stripped the side post out, so that will definitely rule the battery out but it was at 12.6 during all of this.
@@NobleAutomotive So, I give up on life. I've dealt with 100's of batteries, it was the battery. Put in the new one and it fired right up. How can a battery show 12.6 show good on a battery charger and be bad? No, I don't have a load tester, yet. Getting one tomorrow. This will never happen to me again. Thanks again for the reply. Something must have broke inside the battery? Only 2 years old, no signs of going bad.
Somebody tell me when you got good headlights and flashers and a battery showing 12.6 and the battery be bad? Help me understand.
@@Joe6packAmerican Love that you fixed it. Good job.
I have 05 Chevy Tahoe sometimes it cranks sometimes it does not replace the starter relay sometimes you can get it to crank by putting a wire to pin 87 and touching the positive terminal on the battery.. I tried to jump from 30 to 87 and it would not start ???Not sure what to do
It sounds to me like you've got a bad battery connection, either positive. Or? the negative. I would take and remove them and clean them very well, and you can even see if either one are loose or they've got a lot of Corrosion.
Let me know how this turns out because if you don't have power at 30. You shouldn't have power at Ignition a fuse A 40 amp.
It should be located just above the starting relay to the left. There should be 2 60 amp fuse before it 🙄
What if pin 87 does not light up
Are you testing with the relay Inn or out? If the relay is out, then you won't have power on 87, and the relay supplies power to 87.
Thank you. That helps. Looks like its time for a new starter. @@NobleAutomotive
Thanks for the info but you lost me at schematic lol.
Thanks for your comment and watching maybe I can do a video on the way I understand schematics. I get that at work when I'm helping a younger technician with something electrical.
starter fuse
Thank you, I'm glad it helped.
Turn off your tv. Distracting. Thanks
I see what you're talking about, thank you.