Love that we were able to collab on a solution that works for us! These were all things I wanted fixed on the symmetrical parts. I think we came up with a great final solution and I hope that others enjoy it as much as we will. Sorry if I "nudged" a bit too much XD I am wondering how the expanded holes (for the 2 M5 roll in nuts) will work with the Y rails and my Y backers. I should have some printed up soon.
That is awesome @FeveredMind and Kermit, taking something and just making it your own. I would love to see a video series of how you worked it on CAD. I have tried and I get to drawing lines in CAD and welp, I get frustrated, and I go back to just finding and downloading something that's "good enough", I would love to see how you did this and try building things on my own in the future.
That's some great work! Love that you put the thought into it for being symmetrical. I don't suppose you would be making a version for the Micron and Salad Fork?
There have been a few others made now, mods of my mod and others, including these from one of the members in my BIB Discord: github.com/Radiotbo3d/SBFI
Ah ha...the ultimate solution for your Trident build! Like the mod of the mod of the mod of the mod. Now I need to mod your mod to work with the 2.4 belts. Great video and nice picture in picture effect.
I've modded the Micron version the BFI idlers to use toothed pulleys. Might need more modification thought. Also might borrow some stuff from yours. Thank you for putting up this video and keep up the good work!
Still finishing up my 2.4, but my Trident is next. Already got the pins for the pin mod but wasn’t sure what idlers I wanted to use. Now I know! Thanks for the videos and all your hard work!
Thank you for showing us all these variations. I have tried making modifications of files in CAD (Fusion 360) before, but have not had much success. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong and would like to see your process.
Hello! I really like your videos. I have a Trident and I was wondering what do you think of a mod that I have seen to add an auxiliary fan for part cooling, like the one in the Bambu X1C? Would you add that to yout Trident?
Only if I had cooling problems. The aux blower fans work well, but will cause you to run your bed and nozzle a little hotter to off set the "breeze". For normal printing, 200-300mm the standard fans are fine. Remember that people often mod printers to fix issues that are possibly more related to improper assembly or poor tuning. What's the use case for you? Faster printing?? Can your hotend pump out more filament? Can your mech systems maintain a higher speed and still be precise? More isn't always better!
Fevered is correct - Happy to make one for the 2.4 at some point! I do have a 2.4 rebuild in the works. It's not happening too soon, but IF I find spare time.... I can get it done
idk how people get their rama idlers to break ? did they not print the inserts in the correct orientation ? the way they are printed makes the layer lines be horizontal when installed later meaning the pull on the piece dosent pull on the layers... seeing how some people have theirs broken either tells me they printed them wrong, used the wrong materials, didnt print their abs with the correct temps or plain oriented them wrong? im stillusing the first ones i had with a belt tension of 120hz and they are like new.. no cracks to see nothing
So many people, so many printers. I had some that broke on the horizontal, but I blame the filament manufacturer for that. (I had to replace a lot of parts on that printer) I guess to me the newest front idlers (I have never used them) have that part to part point where the screw enters and that just seems like a bad design. But I encourage everyone to try both stock and mod parts - testing, building and modifying is how we, as a community can make such great strides. I'm a big pin-mod guy, so I choose to do Rama or other idlers!
I had a lot of doubts and questions. Then, I realized I was far from the only one. I still think the Rama is a great solution, but every solution can usually be improved. Be on the lookout for the inverted Tap! 😱
Mine do not have the groves to clamp Z belting. However: github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main/usermods/Tetsu/Symetrical%20BFI OR the originals: github.com/clee/VoronBFI
Liked the overview of the thought process and collaboration. Real CAD is a future "need to learn" skill. Looking forward to your video on using it for mods. What CAD software do you use?
Minor changes. Mounting holes spaced slightly more to accommodate some roll-nuts that needed addition space. Wings slightly longer to recess the front of the idler a bit more from the front of the printer.
Love that we were able to collab on a solution that works for us! These were all things I wanted fixed on the symmetrical parts. I think we came up with a great final solution and I hope that others enjoy it as much as we will. Sorry if I "nudged" a bit too much XD
I am wondering how the expanded holes (for the 2 M5 roll in nuts) will work with the Y rails and my Y backers. I should have some printed up soon.
Good question. The originals were also not just round. Making things better, or at least what you need is what this hobby is about!
That is awesome @FeveredMind and Kermit, taking something and just making it your own. I would love to see a video series of how you worked it on CAD. I have tried and I get to drawing lines in CAD and welp, I get frustrated, and I go back to just finding and downloading something that's "good enough", I would love to see how you did this and try building things on my own in the future.
Coming soon to a TH-cam near you!
Thanks for sharing and explaining the whole process. Seeing some CAD would be very nice.
Thanks for taking the time to let me know. Most of my context is viewer driven. This helps!
That's some great work! Love that you put the thought into it for being symmetrical. I don't suppose you would be making a version for the Micron and Salad Fork?
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not opposed to it. I would like to do a quick video showing how I modified these, maybe two birds-one stone?
@@BuildItBasement that would be great! I’m genuinely terrible at CAD
I am definitely going to put this in my trident this Friday. Thank you for your hard work on this.
There have been a few others made now, mods of my mod and others, including these from one of the members in my BIB Discord: github.com/Radiotbo3d/SBFI
Ah ha...the ultimate solution for your Trident build! Like the mod of the mod of the mod of the mod. Now I need to mod your mod to work with the 2.4 belts. Great video and nice picture in picture effect.
I probably wouldn't have done it if it wasn't for your influence on fusion
Ironic that I installed beefy this morning.. may throw your symmetrical a try now
Your irony is my every day.
Great design! Any chance you could drop an STL with the ridges added back for a 2.4?
github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main/usermods/Tetsu/Symetrical%20BFI
@@BuildItBasementAwesome, thanks! I’ve actually got those printing now, after watching your video.
Ordered a new Trident yesterday and had prepared files in Orca for BFI, but now u changed my mind. Thanks u for that. Symmetric is the way to go :)
Awesome! Let me know how things progress! Share any issues you run in to or observations! Where did you order the kit from?
@@BuildItBasement Went with a Formbot3d kit this time.
Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
Printing this mod now. What length M5 bolts are needed for carrier?
40mm. But if you have smaller ones you can make it work, with less travel.
Looking forward to a PR to the BFI GitHub repo with your new usermod :)
It's floating on my git currently, but as soon as I get a few others providing feedback, I'll do just that. Thanks man!
I've modded the Micron version the BFI idlers to use toothed pulleys. Might need more modification thought. Also might borrow some stuff from yours. Thank you for putting up this video and keep up the good work!
Thanks! Anything I can do to help or help others to help even more people! Thanks for the comment - means a lot.
Still finishing up my 2.4, but my Trident is next. Already got the pins for the pin mod but wasn’t sure what idlers I wanted to use. Now I know! Thanks for the videos and all your hard work!
Community!
Thank you for showing us all these variations.
I have tried making modifications of files in CAD (Fusion 360) before, but have not had much success. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong and would like to see your process.
I'll +1 to some possible Fusion videos.
Hello! I really like your videos. I have a Trident and I was wondering what do you think of a mod that I have seen to add an auxiliary fan for part cooling, like the one in the Bambu X1C?
Would you add that to yout Trident?
Only if I had cooling problems. The aux blower fans work well, but will cause you to run your bed and nozzle a little hotter to off set the "breeze". For normal printing, 200-300mm the standard fans are fine. Remember that people often mod printers to fix issues that are possibly more related to improper assembly or poor tuning. What's the use case for you? Faster printing?? Can your hotend pump out more filament? Can your mech systems maintain a higher speed and still be precise? More isn't always better!
Very cool mod mate. I would like to see how you went about doing the CAD. 👍🇦🇺😊
Coming soon! Cheers! Happy to share.
Does your design work for a voron 2.4? I know it works for a trident, but does it work for a 2.4 too?
Unfortunately, no. There are no holes for the Z belts.
Fevered is correct - Happy to make one for the 2.4 at some point! I do have a 2.4 rebuild in the works. It's not happening too soon, but IF I find spare time.... I can get it done
@@BuildItBasementyeah I went with Rama for the 2.4 but would also be interested in yours.
did you ever make a 2.4 version?@@BuildItBasement
Great work dude!
Thank you! Cheers!
idk how people get their rama idlers to break ? did they not print the inserts in the correct orientation ? the way they are printed makes the layer lines be horizontal when installed later meaning the pull on the piece dosent pull on the layers... seeing how some people have theirs broken either tells me they printed them wrong, used the wrong materials, didnt print their abs with the correct temps or plain oriented them wrong? im stillusing the first ones i had with a belt tension of 120hz and they are like new.. no cracks to see nothing
So many people, so many printers. I had some that broke on the horizontal, but I blame the filament manufacturer for that. (I had to replace a lot of parts on that printer) I guess to me the newest front idlers (I have never used them) have that part to part point where the screw enters and that just seems like a bad design. But I encourage everyone to try both stock and mod parts - testing, building and modifying is how we, as a community can make such great strides. I'm a big pin-mod guy, so I choose to do Rama or other idlers!
When you printed the Rama carriage that broke, what was the infill? Wonder if you did 100% if it would be stronger.
I had a lot of doubts and questions. Then, I realized I was far from the only one. I still think the Rama is a great solution, but every solution can usually be improved. Be on the lookout for the inverted Tap! 😱
great job! have a v2.4 been made yet i would like it for my 3 v2.4 if you have time thanks for your time
I have been meaning to do a video showing how I modified the part. It's on a list! Trust me! List is long, time is short!
Very nice work Are these usable on the 2.4 model
Mine do not have the groves to clamp Z belting. However: github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main/usermods/Tetsu/Symetrical%20BFI OR the originals: github.com/clee/VoronBFI
Liked the overview of the thought process and collaboration. Real CAD is a future "need to learn" skill. Looking forward to your video on using it for mods. What CAD software do you use?
Fusion
Now do a micron version!!! Great work!
Feel free! haha... Maybe when if I ever build a Micron - or I guess if enough people ask...
is v093 just shorter than v092?
Minor changes. Mounting holes spaced slightly more to accommodate some roll-nuts that needed addition space. Wings slightly longer to recess the front of the idler a bit more from the front of the printer.
Exact notes are: "Added 2mm to the sides to hold the unit further back and added 1.5mm to the spacing between the mounting holes to the M5 roll nuts."
We still hear you a little. You should make the music louder
Haha...