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It was a fairly easy fix. Just a poor fit, so it connected when it shouldn't.

That's awesome! Glad to hear it helped!

Thanks! I'm glad to be helpful!

I can't believe i hadn't been. It's been on the bucket list for a long time

Thank you!

Thank you!

Sorry to hear that. I suspect either the float valves are not closing, or that the fuel pressure is too high. Let me know if you need additional help with the carbs. I can rebuild them for you, but it may not be necessary depending on what's wrong. Good luck!

Not really, no. My dad worked on his cars but absolutely hated doing it. Almost all of what I know came from learning it through restorations on my own cars, plus some time working at a Tuffy Auto to pay for school.

It was fun to go. I've wanted to for years!

Sorry…this comment was in regard to your excellent video on clutch cylinder repair..all your videos are great and much appreciated! Chuckmcb

I hear you. Some things are just a pain to reach on these cars. I had a hell of a time just putting the bolt back in at the bottom of the generator.

Different depending on your car. I use Redline MT90 or MT85 in all of mine if that helps. But really the shop or owners manual will be a good resource.

My Range Rover is newer (a 2012), but I love the classic ones. They're becoming quite popular these days too, as are old Land Rover Defenders.

A video on that would be a good one. I'll add to the queue. Basically though, K&N filters have more open space between the weave of the fibers than a typical paper filter. It's also made of a cloth type medium instead of paper with a bunch of fibers hanging out--so they catch debris in a different way. With a K&N (and also with lots of older classics like my Austin-Healey which has a wire mesh filter), the oil stuck to the filter is what traps dirt. Then you can wash the oil off, which has suspended all the stuff that sticks to it, and you have a clean filter again. Re-oil and put it back in and you're good to go! With a paper filter, you can't really clean it off, and it might be more restrictive (though engineers will design the intake with that in mind). Basically, clean the filter once a year or so when you change the oil. Take it off the car, clean it (K&N makes a filter cleaner), let it dry, and spray some new oil on it. Then it's ready to keep protecting your engine!

Made that video a long time ago. I had forgotten about it.... Anyway, thank you!

No, it must be a little later.

@@tjm3900 correct. It's a 1980. That said, the front bumper is missing and I have a set of chrome ones in the basement so....

I've been really happy with mine. There's nothing wrong with the premium brands. They make a great product. Just... I'm not sure it's worth the difference in price for most of us.

I'm not the biggest fan of Pertronix in a TR6. They work great in the Healeys I've put them in, but for some reason they keep burning out on TR6s and Spitfires. And the symptoms are exactly as you're describing. It'll work for some of the RPM but not all. I assume since you've checked the total timing and the idle timing that you know the distributor advance is working properly. Barring that, I'll bet the Pertronix is cutting out. If you need a hand with the distributor, I rebuild these and can set yours up properly so you can drop it in. Turnaround time is about a week at the moment unless I'm going out of town.

@@midwestmotoring We haven't got the points completely installed yet, I will make some wires that will work, until I get the terminal connect part from Moss Motors. Thank you for the advice on Pertronix. I really have my doubts about them. A friend with a Triumph GT 6 had a new one that never worked out of the box. He's now running points. thanks for the great instructional video. Very thorough.

@@midwestmotoring Two last important questions. Do I need to add a ballast resistor? Can I run the Blaster 3.0 ohm coil with points, or do I need a stock coil? Thanks

@@midwestmotoring Mystery solved. It was the Pertronix module. I bought all the missing wires and installed a set of points and a condenser. I also had a good 3 ohm Flame Thrower coil. Since the coil is 3 ohms, I didn't install the ballast resistor. The carburetors were next. They were very lean and backfiring (needles full down). I raised them slowly until lifting the slides didn't drop the RPM. It now runs great. Thank you for this excellent video. You've saved another TR6 from the wrecking yard.

You're welcome!

Thank you so much!

I had to rewatch the video just to be sure, but I did set them with the grooves out. Thought I was crazy for a moment! In any case, you're correct about the clearance. 6 is perfect when the spec is 4-12.

It's like I knew the future!

@@midwestmotoring lol. If only it was a Delorean

It does, yes!

Thanks!

I just hope it goes to someone who will use it. These cars were meant to be driven!

Make sure the bearings and axles, etc are also in good shape too.

I did look it up. Learned something new!

Thanks!

Thanks! I wouldn't change a thing

It took years of practice and persistence, but I finally wore down my wife enough where I can get away with extra cars...

You bet!

According to Lake, yes. But I'm not sure if he noted the application or which oil specifically. My takeaway was that there are a number of good options for classics, and VR1 happens to be one of them.

@@midwestmotoring I’ve only just heard of Driven oil (in about the last year) so I’m a little leery about trying it. I’ve been a Valvoline guy since the early 80s same as my dad. Never had any issues with it. I have tried Mobile 1 and Amsoil with no real issues in these older carbureted cars but I always come back to Valvoline. But I change my oil a bit different than most people. I had a 1972 Chevelle with a 350 back in the early 80’s and rebuilt the engine in 1986. I bumped the hp and tq up a little bit. I changed oil when it was hard to read the word (add) through the oil on the dipstick. My friends always joked with me that I could probably resell my use oil.😆 I sold my car back in 1990 But you know what? In 2021 I located the guy that bought it from me back then to see if it was still around. Not only was it still around he is still driving it on my engine rebuild from 1986. It still runs great no oil burning or any issues to report. So, my friends can joke all they want but my engine after 38 years is still going strong. When I owned that car we dragged race every weekend during the summer. Man were those the days. I miss those days! So it’s not like it was babied.

@@einstein3509 Valvoline is a great oil. That's mostly what I've used since my first car. The Driven stuff is more of a specialty blender, but I'm not sure I'd see a huge difference based on the way I drive and the cars it's going into. Maybe that'd be an interesting test some day....

Depends on which wires. From the factory there would only be 1 unless you mean the spark plug wires. If you have an electronic ignition installed, then there could be more wires, but short of buying a new ignition the only way to fix old wires is to cut and replace.

Hopefully you get the replacement soon. People are just careless nowadays.

Generally speaking use a mono-grade, but some manufacturers (notably Land Rover) used to specify multi-grade engine oil in their gearboxes. Generally something meeting motorcycle categories JASO MA or MA2 motor would be ideal, as this must also meet API SJ, SL, SM, SN, or SP whilst also passing additional shear stability and friction tests to enable the synchronisers to work. Motorcycles share engine oil with their transmission hence the need for these requirements.

@@cameronwood1994 you need to be careful with monograde as well. Apparently, according to Lake, many of them have no additives at all... so you'll be missing out on anti-foaming agents and things like ZDDP, which are good for transmissions. It's more money, but I now use Redline MT85 and MT90 exclusively. They're designed from the start to be manual transmission fluids, are closer to engine oil than to a gear oil, and satisfy the requirements of the gearboxes in my cars. Otherwise... you can't really go wrong with what the manual specifies. Just make sure it's serviced at proper intervals. I wondered about the motorcycle oil as well. It stands to reason it'd be quite appropriate, but it's really designed more for a wet clutch than a brass synchro.... so I'm not clear on whether that would benefit from the same fluid.

@@midwestmotoring Yes, I've noticed most are only API SA. Isn't this a case of following the minimum API or ACEA (formerly CCMC) requirements too?

Lake doesn't monitor the comments on Midwest Motoring's channel, but you can check out his by searching for the "Motor Oil Geek." Careful--it's a rabbit hole! I would say for my own advice that the first thing to do is to test the wear. Grab a sample, and send it to Lake at Speed Diagnostix for testing. You can also try a tank without the 2-stroke oil and do back to back tests. That should give you some data on what's going on as far as ring wear, fuel dilution, etc. If the carb isn't playing up any more, but it used to be, then that might be a win right there. I'll add that, like a traditional oil additive that gets poured into the crank case, your results may be different if you use fuel from a different source. Hope that helps, and glad to see the video is garnering so much interest!

@@midwestmotoring Thanks for the reply, I get carried away with ideas but this one thing I do works for small carbureted engines. I thought you may have known him well and given him this suggestion but he is a busy man. I will go to his channel 👍🏻

Thank you very much! Your support is very much appreciated!

@@midwestmotoring All good mate, a good video with great people talking about good facts and experiences. This helps keep the hobby going with confidence 👍🏻

He certainly is a wealth of knowledge! Check out his TH-cam channel, which you can find by a search for the "Motor Oil Geek."

I know, and I'm embarrassed by it. If it were anything but an interview I couldn't do over, I'd scrap it and reshoot.

The manual specifies engine oil. 20w50 or straight 30w will be just fine.

Thank you! Will do... possibly even with better sound quality!

A good idea in hindsight. I also could have just turned on a space heater nearby. At least I remembered to stop the pendulum on the ticking clock!

That might have something to do with it for sure. I know some people who use 10w40 in their Triumphs with no issues, and Lake has a video out talking about how it's possible to increase friction and reduce wear... so maybe the goal has changed along with engine design? Anyway, the best thing to do is to try it and test it. That's how you'll know what's going on inside!

Yes, but that is NOT 180 f on just the coolant gauge, it is 180f saturated ENGINE temp (oil temp)

@@tjm3900 good point! Basically, if you're not going to go for a drive, just leave the car alone. It'll be just fine.

@@tjm3900 Most people can only measure the coolant temp. Fr the novice its a reasonable number. True engine temp harmony is not reached until all fluids are the optimal temp. Ask Lake how important this was on a NASCAR engine

Interestingly, he's got a recent video out where he was talking to a PHD in the subject, so apparently there are folks even more knowledgeable on the subject out there! Glad to still be helpful!

Depends on the carburetors. In an SU or Zenith-Stormberg, the air piston is still going to be mostly or fully down--so even with the throttle open it won't make a significant difference in compression readings. With a Weber, that's a different story since they don't have an air piston and therefore don't operate the same way. Also, remember that the gauge probably isn't super accurate anyway--especially since the dynamic compression while the engine is running is likely to be quite different than the static pressure from just turning it over. What we're looking for is a comparison between the different cylinders; not the absolute compression reading.

My wife said the same thing. I saw him being interviewed at the PRI trade show in Indiana last year, and geeked out that I knew who it was. My wife, who was also there, was like "Who?"

Just take the lumber out of a Morgan.

The brass caps should unscrew, and there would be oil underneath.

That's fair enough, but remember that the multi-million-mile Volvo probably had the vast majority of its oil changes done before the last decade. I'd be curious to see UOA results before and after--or I wonder if anyone's done back-to-back testing using a classic car motor oil followed by an off-the-shelf oil. All that said, you make a great point about the valve spring pressures, which are a big part of the equation. Flipping sides again... Rotella T6 and other diesel oils may have higher ZDDP content, but as noted in the videos it's a different type of ZDDP and may not be active at the pressures generated in a gas engine. I do still think the specialty oils may be the best bet, and would note that you generally don't have to mail order the lubricants. At least in the US, Valvoline VR1 is available at any Auto Zone (and most other parts stores), and you can find Castrol Classic through Walmart. They're widely available, inexpensive, and according to Lake suitable for classics. In any case, I'm sure we'll all agree that regular maintenance and driving the cars is much more important than which brand of oil you choose.

Aybe as a standalone factor. I think the general level for corrosion is a little higher anyway (I could be wrong), but even more important than the zddp level is how it compares to other levels, such as detergents. Remember it's a balancing act. But either way it'd be interesting to see a wear comparison....