Austin-Healey 3000 Thermostat
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Check us out at www.midwestmotoring.com!
Despite the title picture, most overheating is NOT caused by the thermostat. The thermostat in your car has the same job, regardless of whether you're driving a Triumph TR6, an MGB, a Spitfire, or a Jaguar Mk2. It stays closed when the engine is cold (to keep coolant in the engine), and opens when it gets to operating temperature (to direct it through the radiator where it can remove some of that heat). Modern thermostats tend to fail in the open position, but that's not always the case with LBCs, so you need to make sure it's in good working order.
One thing people get wrong frequently? Thinking the thermostat is causing your overheating. In the case of this Healey 3000, it could be (since the original thermostat might freeze in the closed position). That said, if your thermostat is operating correctly, then it represents the engines MINIMUM operating temperature. A 180 degree thermostat opens at 180 degrees... but it does NOTHING to keep your engine from going to 190, 210, or even 250. For that, you need the rest of the cooling system to be in good working order (fan, water pump, hoses, radiator... even the passageways inside the engine).
It's maintenance that should be done, but in most cases the thermostat will cause an engine that's slow to warm up--and not overheating. Anyway, here you can see how easy it is to change in an old British car. If you don't know how long it's been since the thermostat has been changed... it's not a bad idea to do it since the part is usually about $10. If you have a bellows style like the old Healeys, then your options are 1) install a blanking sleeve and a new thermostat (cheaper and probably better than what I just did in the video) or 2) I'd swap the thermostat every few years as maintenance--you don't want it to freeze in the closed position. Good luck!
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? ( part : 1/2 ) [โกงไหมครับ ep.89 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Enjoyable video. I also own a 3000 MK2 BT7 Tri carb like yours. Mine is a late 1961 and one of the last side change cars before the change over to the centre change box. My car was originally supplied new to LA in October 1961, returned to the UK in the early 1990s, fully restored and converted to RHD. 😊
I love the tri-carb. It's a pain to reach bits on the back carburetor, but it's unique and kind of cool. I believe the main reason they went to 3 carbs is that the racing rules at the time allowed them to switch the type of carb but not the number... and they wanted triple Webers on the race cars.
I’d be interested in a video showing how to tune and balance a tri carb Healey.
You may get your wish. I probably should put a little time into mine....
Enjoyed the video. I have a '63 BJ7 that has the same issue. Did the new (old) thermostat help? Any comments on using the sleeve instead of the $160 thermostat?
Short answer... no. It helped marginally, but not enough. I'm finding my issue is that the Healey temp creeps up only while sitting at a stoplight. That's technically an engine bay design flaw dealing with air pressure--the fan isn't aggressive enough to get enough clean air through the radiator at slower speeds and higher ambient temperatures. Apparently louvres in the hood and on the fenders were the solution for the rally teams, along with a more aggressive fan. I suspect an electric pusher fan might do the trick, or one of the Texas Kooler fans being sold. There's a similar problem at high speeds, though my Healey is much more often on back roads.
I don't recommend using the sleeve in lieu of a thermostat. It might be okay in racing applications, but you're definitely increasing engine wear by not allowing it to warm up as quickly. Most engine wear in a road car occurs when the engine is just started and when it's cold. If racing, you're probably tearing the motor down periodically anyway, so that's of less concern.
I too am a realist on these cars and don't care to win, or even drive past, a car show. On my older cars, and old truck, I have Spal fans but don't run and thermostat to run them as I just like a relay and a switch and use them when needed. I have a few bellows thermostats in a box and may take them out and test them now that they are about the same price as a Spal Fan. I have a TR4 and a 1970 Spitfire and just just took the crazy metal fan and 5 pound extension off the TR4 and just didn't bother putting the almost useless fan back on the Spitfire. Just run the Spal fans only. It makes the motors more balanced and I guess give an HP or two. I live out in the county so even in summer I rarely use the fans.
Electric fans are a good upgrade for sure. I do recommend always running a thermostat though. Otherwise it won't get up to operating temp as quickly.
Ambiguous reference on my part... sorry. I was speaking of the thermostat for the fan and not the motor. I don't like the stab the rad with the tube for the fan anyway. I can see how one would think I was saying I don't run a thermostat in the motor but that isn't what I was saying. I in fact like Mr. Gasket or Holley coolant thermostats but as you say the OEM bellow/sleeved is best with the bypass systems. Sorry I wasn't more clear as it may have confused someone. When I got my first TR4A I learned very quickly that someone had removed the thermostat so it was a bit chilly one winter evening and when I got home I thought the thermostat was stuck open but in fact it just wasn't there. It got nice and toasty with one fitted. Then they were $50 and not $120! It is also important to note that it is a must to stop the coolant flow so the radiator can cool the coolant as you well know. Like I say I'm going to go through my box of thermostats today to see if I have one of these brass babies. Thanks for calling me out and clearing up this issue.
No worries. I'm easily confused, so it was probably just me anyway! Normally I hate speaking by text--something always gets misread.
What model of 4 poet lift? Happy with it?
Auto Lift Park 8 is the lift I have. I'm happy with it, but I wouldn't necessarily use it if you're lifting pickup trucks or anything heavy. It'll do it... just not very big so the wheels are all the way on the corners.
I only use HQ Motorad thermostats not chinese crap!
Not everything made in China is crap. You just need a reputable company with good quality control. Actually a lot of stuff made anywhere can be garbage for the same reason. MotoRad thermostats are made in Isreal I believe, though it's a good product so the location doesn't matter so much.
@@midwestmotoring Israel makes very high tech products! Superb engineers! Engine bearings by King Brand are Formula 1 supplier made in Israel too!
I'm absolutely sure that's true. A significant number of Milwaukee tools are made in China, and are also known to be high quality. I'm just saying that the "where it's made" sticker doesn't count for much these days. Good and bad quality can come from anywhere.
@@midwestmotoring Milwaukee and Ryobi is one company many things are made in Korea and Japan, my Ryobi tool is made in Hungary and its fine.
What temp thermostat did you install and from where did you source it? Thanks for the video.