Outstanding video and presentation. All 6 of my MGBs have Overdrive units installed. They are a must have for longer engine life and more relaxing highway driving.
@@c.brionkidder9232 I personally like the factory OD--especially in a Triumph since the shifting in those cars is really nice. It also maintains the character of the car, and it's nice to not have to use the clutch while in 3rd gear around town. Furthermore, repairing an original gearbox (or even replacing it with a different original box altogether) is cheaper than those kits. For example, assuming it's a rebuildable box, I can often rebuild a Triumph Spitfire gearbox for someone else for between 1500 and 2500. That's way less than a Vitesse kit--even after shipping.
I have an MGA which has been to California and back to UK. It is a 1960 year of manufacture and here in UK we still follow the manufacturers recommendations of engine oil in the gearbox but hypoid 80 or 90 in the rear axle. So far the MG's from Abingdon have been lasting from the 1940's to today with the recommended lubricants. I think they knew what they were doing.
Absolutely! You're not going to harm anything with motor oil, provided the regular maintenance is completed. My point wasn't that motor oil was bad--more so that proper gear oil is perfectly acceptable. Engine oil contains additives like detergents and dispersants, which clear away combustion byproducts. There is no combustion inside the gearbox, so while the fluid CAN be dual purpose it doesn't make it the best possible solution. Motor oil doesn't need the same additives you'll find in gear oil since the engine has an oil pump and lubricates itself, and since the engine doesn't have gears in mesh under high pressures. So long as the viscosities are correct, it's perfectly safe (and in some ways better) to swap motor oil for gear oil. Just be certain the gear oil doesn't attack yellow metal as in some GL5 fluids. A 90w GL4 will be similar to a 40w motor oil. Per the factory manual, gear oil should be drained, the filter cleaned, and oil replaced every 2 years.
@@davelinkson1 gearbox oil is the same viscosity as the 20w50 (or at least similar), but it is not the same as engine oil. The base stocks may be the same, but there are different additive packages added by the oil manufacturer. Both are designed to lubricate, but engine oils typically are designed to clear away combustion byproducts while gear oils are designed to protect gears in mesh, which often comes with the need for high pressure additives. Gearboxes do not have combustion byproducts, but do have gears in mesh. Therefore gear lube is simply a more suitable choice, but again--if you do the maintenance and observe the intervals, you're not going to hurt anything with engine oil. Modern gear oil will also not cause damage, and is arguably superior.
Brilliant presentation. Calm and informative , no drama or over complications. Thanks for your help ! My overdrive has stopped working on my 1967 MGB GT. I had no idea oil level can stop it working. In England we have EP90 gear oil , would that be what I should use please. Once oil is replaced at correct level and if over drive still won't work then is it only the solenoid that is preventing over drive from working. ?
A lot to unpack here.... Firstly, ep90 gear oil is not ideal for the gearbox unless it's specific to manual transmissions. Redline MT90, a true GL4, is a good example, and is what I use. There are a handful of others, but 30w motor oil works well and is easy to find if you aren't sure. Just change it periodically as it does go bad over time. As for the OD not working, the solenoid could be it, but there are many reasons it won't work. Low oil is only one of those, the solenoid is another, but you could have poor adjustment, worn or stuck components, or a block or leak of hydraulic fluid anywhere in the system. I can rebuild an overdrive for you, but won't be able to test it without the gearbox... which adds considerably to the shipping overseas. So I'd see if there are some fixes you could try first, starting with the fluid.
63-65 Buick Riviera heater cores were absolute torture to replace. I think you can leave the back bumper on, but pretty much everything else comes out, lol. Night. Mare.
I've never met a car with a simple to replace heater. They're all absolutely horrible. Sounds like GM didn't do any better despite having more room under the dash.
I have a loose butterfly bolt between the trans drain plug and the engine oil pan, it leaks oil… is this something I can fix? Thank you great video I learned a lot I recently purchased a 72 MGB
You're going to have to be more specific. Are you saying there's a bolt with a rubber plug that expands when it's tightened? There's a butterfly bit, but that's at the back if I'm not mistaken, and it can't leak. There shouldn't be any rubber expanding plugs on an MG gearbox, but maybe I'm just misunderstanding what you're asking.
Actually, I think a lot of GL5 fluids are "buffered" to account for yellow metal. But that said I'm not sure backwards compatibility is given the same thought as it is with other fluids. Redline makes a good oil, so I'm happy to use what they recommend. It seems the safer choice for a component that I don't want to pull more often than I have to.
@@midwestmotoring Yes Buffered Sulphur has been the norm for about 25 years, but other antiwear additives such as molybdenum are used which work well as a Gear lubricant but are too slippery for syncromesh.
Outstanding video and presentation. All 6 of my MGBs have Overdrive units installed. They are a must have for longer engine life and more relaxing highway driving.
Definitely agree. All of my LBCs have overdrive apart from the mini (because it wasn't available on the mini). I do a lot of miles, so it's worth it.
Also holy cow, 6 of them! You're all in on these little octagons aren't you?
do you have any opinions of the factory OD vs say the Vitesse 5-sp OD?
@@c.brionkidder9232 I personally like the factory OD--especially in a Triumph since the shifting in those cars is really nice. It also maintains the character of the car, and it's nice to not have to use the clutch while in 3rd gear around town. Furthermore, repairing an original gearbox (or even replacing it with a different original box altogether) is cheaper than those kits. For example, assuming it's a rebuildable box, I can often rebuild a Triumph Spitfire gearbox for someone else for between 1500 and 2500. That's way less than a Vitesse kit--even after shipping.
@@midwestmotoring My parents gave me my first MGB 67 back in 1977 never looked back... :)
Very very helpful. I will be doing mine next week. Thanks for a great video
Glad it was helpful!
I have an MGA which has been to California and back to UK. It is a 1960 year of manufacture and here in UK we still follow the manufacturers recommendations of engine oil in the gearbox but hypoid 80 or 90 in the rear axle. So far the MG's from Abingdon have been lasting from the 1940's to today with the recommended lubricants. I think they knew what they were doing.
Absolutely! You're not going to harm anything with motor oil, provided the regular maintenance is completed. My point wasn't that motor oil was bad--more so that proper gear oil is perfectly acceptable. Engine oil contains additives like detergents and dispersants, which clear away combustion byproducts. There is no combustion inside the gearbox, so while the fluid CAN be dual purpose it doesn't make it the best possible solution. Motor oil doesn't need the same additives you'll find in gear oil since the engine has an oil pump and lubricates itself, and since the engine doesn't have gears in mesh under high pressures. So long as the viscosities are correct, it's perfectly safe (and in some ways better) to swap motor oil for gear oil. Just be certain the gear oil doesn't attack yellow metal as in some GL5 fluids. A 90w GL4 will be similar to a 40w motor oil.
Per the factory manual, gear oil should be drained, the filter cleaned, and oil replaced every 2 years.
@@midwestmotoring I have owned, maintained myself , rebuilt and driven MG's, Lotus, Land Rover and Jaguars for over 50 years.
@@awalk5177all wonderful cars. It's a good community to be a part of!
Always use the lube the manufacturers specify, gearbox oil is same as the engine oil 20/50...
@@davelinkson1 gearbox oil is the same viscosity as the 20w50 (or at least similar), but it is not the same as engine oil. The base stocks may be the same, but there are different additive packages added by the oil manufacturer. Both are designed to lubricate, but engine oils typically are designed to clear away combustion byproducts while gear oils are designed to protect gears in mesh, which often comes with the need for high pressure additives. Gearboxes do not have combustion byproducts, but do have gears in mesh. Therefore gear lube is simply a more suitable choice, but again--if you do the maintenance and observe the intervals, you're not going to hurt anything with engine oil. Modern gear oil will also not cause damage, and is arguably superior.
Brilliant presentation. Calm and informative , no drama or over complications. Thanks for your help !
My overdrive has stopped working on my 1967 MGB GT. I had no idea oil level can stop it working. In England we have EP90 gear oil , would that be what I should use please.
Once oil is replaced at correct level and if over drive still won't work then is it only the solenoid that is preventing over drive from working. ?
A lot to unpack here.... Firstly, ep90 gear oil is not ideal for the gearbox unless it's specific to manual transmissions. Redline MT90, a true GL4, is a good example, and is what I use. There are a handful of others, but 30w motor oil works well and is easy to find if you aren't sure. Just change it periodically as it does go bad over time.
As for the OD not working, the solenoid could be it, but there are many reasons it won't work. Low oil is only one of those, the solenoid is another, but you could have poor adjustment, worn or stuck components, or a block or leak of hydraulic fluid anywhere in the system.
I can rebuild an overdrive for you, but won't be able to test it without the gearbox... which adds considerably to the shipping overseas. So I'd see if there are some fixes you could try first, starting with the fluid.
Great video.
Thanks!
63-65 Buick Riviera heater cores were absolute torture to replace. I think you can leave the back bumper on, but pretty much everything else comes out, lol. Night. Mare.
I've never met a car with a simple to replace heater. They're all absolutely horrible. Sounds like GM didn't do any better despite having more room under the dash.
I have a loose butterfly bolt between the trans drain plug and the engine oil pan, it leaks oil… is this something I can fix? Thank you great video I learned a lot
I recently purchased a 72 MGB
You're going to have to be more specific. Are you saying there's a bolt with a rubber plug that expands when it's tightened? There's a butterfly bit, but that's at the back if I'm not mistaken, and it can't leak. There shouldn't be any rubber expanding plugs on an MG gearbox, but maybe I'm just misunderstanding what you're asking.
Good video well explained, good job thanks 🇬🇧👍
Thanks! Glad these are helpful
100% agree with using a Manual Transmission Fluid such as Redline MTL or MT90. Modern gear oils are NOT made for syncromesh transmissions.
Actually, I think a lot of GL5 fluids are "buffered" to account for yellow metal. But that said I'm not sure backwards compatibility is given the same thought as it is with other fluids. Redline makes a good oil, so I'm happy to use what they recommend. It seems the safer choice for a component that I don't want to pull more often than I have to.
@@midwestmotoring Yes Buffered Sulphur has been the norm for about 25 years, but other antiwear additives such as molybdenum are used which work well as a Gear lubricant but are too slippery for syncromesh.
A dipstick behind the radio...that's funny. Can you imagine one in a modern car, and expecting people to actually check it. LMAO.
I'm surprised at the number of people that don't rotate tires or check the oil, let alone the gear oil...
3.3 liter with od
Sounds about right. Thanks!