Austin-Healey 3000 Rear Axle Seals: Part 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Join Midwest Motoring!
/ @midwestmotoring
In the last video, we pulled the rear axle shaft and removed the hub from the car. Now we'll get the bearings out of the hub and press in a new seal. This is all much easier with a shop press, but you can accomplish the same with a decent sized vice and a hammer (assuming you have things like soft metal drifts and seal installers, which you can pick up fairly inexpensively).
Local to Chicago? Midwest Motoring can help you with this and other maintenance on your classic British sports car! Prefer the DIY approach? Consider joining as a member for faster responses to questions and more tailored advice!
Great video
Thanks very much!
Always an Outstanding video and presentation.
Thank you!
Good morning! I was watching your video about changing transmission oil on the mgb. I strongly agree with you on the fact that GL4 is the way to go. I have tried to tell some of my friends in the car club about the difference between gl4 and gl5 and they dont get it. I’m baffled, so simple. As you say the sulfur is the culprit. I’m not a professional mechanic just know enough to save money and keep my British toys going. Keep up the great work. Guys like you teach guys like me.
So actually I've been learning even more about it. GL5 is generally okay to use with yellow metal nowadays. The problem isn't that it attacks the metal... it's the friction modifiers. GL5 is just slipperier. As a result, the synchros won't grab, which will wear the gears and other internals much faster. If you find a GL5 that will shift smoothly, you're clear to use it. As a general rule, GL4 will be more appropriate for the application though.
@@midwestmotoring very interesting. Thanks and Happy Holidays!!
I'm trying to trouble fault so hopi g to get some info from your video. My problem is, when I tighten the hub nut the hub rubs on the backing plate and wont turn. So I pull the hub back a bit to free it but what stops it from sliding back against the back plate.
I also noticed on you video that when you put back the bearing spacer, the steel ring, it should sit proud of the hub and gasket by 0.001 thou, this according to my manual is essential. Thoughts please.
What they're trying to do is to get proper bearing clearance. In practice, it's not terribly easy to get a measurement that precise, and gaskets are going to vary a tad anyway, but a decent depth micrometer would do a lot of good (we have one, but the camera kept running out of memory so it didn't make the final film). As for stopping the hub sliding back, I need more information. Which car do you have? Generally, with the nut all the way tight, the hub should only be so far forward. You're kind of compressing 2 halves around the bearing to leave a certain clearance, and the lock washer stops it from unscrewing itself.