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Havensal1, please tell us if the cylinders of these Chinese engines look like they are Nikasil silicon carbide plated? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil I don't think they are. I think that's why the manufacturers says to run them at 25:1 instead of 40 or 50:1. I run all my saws at 20:1 so they last longer.

That’s funny, mine started in three pulls. If you would have opened the throttle then pulled the choke , it probably wouldn’t have taken your 32 pulls to start.

I have two of these Zenoah clones. They are fast, powerful and great. They've paid for themselves within the first week on the job. My hired man needed to be fast on his limbing. He gave up his Stihl MS251 because it wasn't fast enough with limbing.

Sounds like you are expecting Stihl quality for the price you paid for it. It is a homeowners occasional use chainsaw so keep that in mind.

Which of the three do you like better?

How does the weight of the clone saws compare to the 460? Thanks

flinke is just 40 dollar

Pinkway is on Temu

It's been good to see these three saws from another person's perspective. You invited comments, so I'll be very frank and address two aspects: 1. Your video presentation quality. 2. The Wemars noise and detail, not necessarily in this order. 🤭 It's been an enjoyable three videos, but so frustrating on the Wemars for me as I was watching and hoping you'd get to two points the 2nd addressing your curio at the end about that noise which I personally would have liked to hear you describe in more detail. Ill label that farther further below. I think you need to pick up on details and describe them more, express your thoughts more, look for any subtle frivalous humour you can inject whenever the opportunity arises, even if you have too think outside your comfort zone. Explain things in more detail. It would help if you were clearer speaking, so speak up with confidence, a little as if you are educating. No detention please! 😊 (You see! Humor like that, youre not up for the light comedy awards but it sets the mood and helps for a good vibe, I've watched 3 videos and I don't even know your name or channel name, if you have one). Call me inobservent but theres a lot to read in the media and it didn't stand out. Tech - Visual: You need to do checks on your filming and sound before continuing to record, it only take a xouple of minutes, right? It's so worth it. I like the workk bench overhead shot if no one else was available to f around your arms and movement but if you could reduce yhe hight with reducing the frame size much that wouldnbe cool and what you were doing there was for a while out of frame on one of the first two saws. Outside with the Wemars, that shot was pretty bad with stray light into the lens at the bottom of frame. You could have explained the strarting process any tips on gow to start it, what to look for, what not to do.all while the engone was off and only 2 mins of actually cranking reving idling, followed by you observations then any second trial after any alterations and an explanation of what happenong and why we need to adjust , a close up on where and how, etc details and tips. Sound: It would help to make sure that we can hear you clearly when you're running the engine, or wait until its off. When you returned to the camera with the engine still running you needed to speak much closer to the microohone (but not AT the mic' due to 'breath bombs', I think that's self explanatory) you know - like sports commentstors track side or in a noisy arena, they used to have a special mic' to hold close to their lips in an effort to drown out surrounding noise, rarely seen these days, but that's the principle) or kill the engine first! That's if you can't mic yourself up close to your mouth, (with the volume balanced with the previous recordings, obviously (I guess it's automatic recording level, but at least ensure the voice is clear). Speak more positively as if you are not alone, as if you are looking someone in the face, don't mumble. Remember, this is meant as "constructive criticism", it's an exercise that all performers, artists, learn to do to improve and maintain quallity of product, your videos are the product. WEMARS RUNNING NOISE: Right at the start you unscrewed the clutch / chain brake cover and two washers dropped out one perhaps rubber a d you referred to them as being “ perhaps "transportation packaging", theyre not! You discarded them nearly knocking them off the bench with the saw while telling us that you didn't know what's causing the noise.from.yhe clutch or chain sprocket area and not once did you look at the inside of the chain brake cover! You may have seen scratching which would indicate chain abrasion and gove you a clue. The washers came off with the cover because they belong on the bolt posts before the cover goes on and I think you'll find the black rubber one goes on the post nearest the front/farthest from the clutch. Now I don't know for sure if this is all it takes to help stop the noise you heard from that area, buddy, but I'm really interested to know if those washers make a difference, after all, they are there for a reason, they're meant to be retained not discarded and there is a reference to them or at least the rubber one, in a Wemars manual I read for a 20" model. OBSERVATIONS: I was waiting for you to also point out one major, obvious difference between the Wemars and the other two, not fhat Ive experienced the other two; they probably had plastic turbine covers on the kppoksite side from the clutch, and the 20" Wemars I tried had metal! I presume your 20" had the same metal cover, that's a major bonus in my opinion! It can get banged up on the job and metal is gonna protect way better. There you are my friend, it pays to do a little heavy readin' now and again! 😂 Okay, light reading, but when all you want to do is 'the man thang' - "Man, go cut wood - Now!" - well then it's heavy reading and your brain hurts! 😏 Or is that just me!? However, for all impulsive people out there still reading this comment, (contrary to type) SAFETY FIRST! READ MANUAL. WEAR SAFETY EQUIPMENT LIKE A PRO', if you can, at least dry gloves, sturdy, grippy shoes or boots, proper eye protection, (not your Ralf Lauren Polo prescription glasses) I witnessed those with glass lenses get shattered once right on the guy's face. Being sharp, he had closed his eyes quickly and was not injurred at all but only as he had been lucky. Goggles or a full-face to neck mesh or preferably clear perspex screen and 4th if possible a hard hat in case of ckickback and falling and flying dead wood after dropping a dead branch. Snd dont forget that deay chainsaw kickback.

When your done with their series u should condense it all down to one half hr vid and go over all your info and tell your fav after using them all. Nobody else on TH-cam has done this yet so if u hurry u might get a hit out of it.

Hello from Romania, I want to purchase a holzfforma 372xp what do you think of this chainsaw, thank you

All these saws are made at the same place with the same parts with different stickers and the 58 62 and 63cc are all just 58cc exact same motors

Thanks for that video of all the parts of that video. I'm thinking about getting the pink way but first would like to know in your opinion, which one is the best? I'm certainly not going to hold anybody to anything I just was wondering what you think is the best watching the videos the pink wages seem to run better. Please correct me if I'm wrong thanks again.

The Pinkway seems to me like it would be the better saw of the three

You only show one saw not all 3

Good series of videos. Thanks 👍🏻

So who won seem like the purple one took it in the time trials

ive had a few of these Zenoah clones and the very best so far was a generic "chainsaw 5800" that i got on Temu for $29.63.

Thanks for sharing, really enjoyed the build series. I'm waiting for a 288 kit from Farmertec myself, but don't have any special tools/experience about filing the rough parts of the cylinder ports. Do you think as a bare minimum it would be enough to at least use some fine wet sandpaper / bear scotch or file down the rough edges of the ports? I'm a bit worried about the stock cylinder, but don't want to destroy it either 😄Thanks, Daniel

I thought about buying one of these Chinese cloned. But walmart had a Christmas super sale for $100 on their black max brand 50 cc 20 inch saws. Which are clones of ryobi and black n decker 50 cc saws, use a honda engine. also came with a hard case, sharpening file set, 3 yr warranty included. Normally price were $229 but was a Christmas super close out sale. Only Wish I had bought 2.

Thanks for this!!!!

So do you just have to keep pulling and pulling til it starts cause I just got the 52cc and I couldn’t for the life of me get that thing going yesterday and I really need to today.

A little slap is ok.

This really sweet sounds of chain saws you have buddy❤❤❤

Your links to the pressure testing and cylinder fixture are all dead. Do you still have the STL?

Have you any info on replacement chains for the YIZBAO?

What do you think of the programs psc68 vs the pink way? Are you familiar with that saw at all?

you didn't look to see if the Sprockets are BURR or RIM style. Rim is the better one because you can buy new rims for cheap. burrs you have to buy a whole new Clutch/drum system.

Pinkway chainsaw is $492 on Canadian Amazon right now. And the wemars is $382

Your square file is not even close to being filled right

I can find nowhere that sells this model for US$100.00.

If you had the budget, it would be very interesting to compare these to the clones in the higher tier of pricing. I think the Neotec 6200 and the Joncutter 5800 are the same Zenoah clone as these, but at a slightly higher price point.

When I unboxed the Pinkway I was like, "Man, it really is purple. What did I do?" But the purple has grown on me a little.

So whats the updated favorite on these? Which one works best?

Interestingly, my Pinkway is nearly identical to your Wemars aside from the colors/markings.

I have almost ordered one of these kits about a dozen times. It looks so much fun even though I'm sure there are major headaches for a novice like me. What always saves me or holds me back is the shipping.

Because of the manufacturing, these saws need broken in. I recommend idling off and on for several heats. 10-15 minute intervals. Use a lot of oil in the initial mix 25:1. Then proceed to rev the saw up off and on, followed by tuning. Cut with a tank or two and then go back to a 40:1 mix. Amsoil dominator is a good two cycle oil for chainsaws. Try to use ethanol free gasoline. Maintain your saw and you should have a good period of use. Once the tree is on the ground, you should be able to buck a cord or so of wood on one tank. I suggest a log splitter, 25 ton or greater. Have fun!

I bought the sup mix saw. So far so good. It starts easy and restarts even easier. That right there is huge. When I have to shut down my saw for a few minutes the last thing I need is to struggle getting it restarted. I am running the oil heavier than usual and eventually will end up with a 40:1 mix. The bar oils good and is a very comfortable saw. This saw has a lot of power and should run the 18” bar comfortably. You have to be careful with that shutoff switch.

Rancher range are cheap domestic range. Only buy XP range.

There is no such device as a Bore A scope or a Borascope. It's Borescope. And if you cannot even speak english then all the components in this piece of junk are also junk. You need to go buy a REAL saw made in Sweden, Germany or Japan. That saw isn't worth unpacking.

This was very interesting to see how this played out. The Wemars is really sounding nicely as well now that its been broken into.

WOW! Boy did that help out that WEMARS, Pinkway, and the Yizbao.. They are really cutting even better than before. They sounded more similar now to 4 strokes when cutting.

Love your videos please keep making them. I own the Wemars and it really has been an awesome saw for $100. I need a new bar and chain for it though not necessarily a bar but for sure a chain I can no longer sharpen it as there will be nothing left of it lol. Any ideas on what Oregon chain or any specific name brand chain that will fit the 20 inch bar 325 gauge 52pitch 76 DL

Your videos are awesome, im a huge fan your really knowledgeable and I hope you keep making videos. I bought this saw about a year ago this same exact model. I actually just learned from your video how to lean out the carb high and low. Thank you for that. Also learned about that oil adjuster because mine was the same way, id fill it with oil and it would just run out like crazy and be empty so fast. Thank you so much please keep them coming.

be interested in seeing it in action

This pinkway is identical to my Wemars 62. Even the chain they give is the same

Ive wandered about these. I love Echo CS series. But the old Homelite XL12 and Super XL12 is what gets used for felling. They're old , and do viberate more than newer saws , but they just work , and continue to work.

I’m new to running gas chainsaws. Could you show more of the leaning out that you did? I could not see clearly what you were doing. Otherwise a very nice in depth view. I recently purchased a wemars chainsaw. Opened the box which was packed just like yours was only the manual inside was for a Homelite 14 inch ELECTRIC chainsaw! Good grief. Mine was a wemars 18 inch saw but it was a wrong model and cc. Not the best way for a new chainsaw user to start . I just wanted something with more power than my B&D battery alligator saw. Been looking at every review I can find.

I guessed 7 you were right at 4. What oil mix did you use? Neo Tec told me to run 25:1 the first 5 tanks. I think im Going to run 50:1 being I have a few gallons premixed.

I was kinda hoping to see a stress test.