Your videos are awesome, im a huge fan your really knowledgeable and I hope you keep making videos. I bought this saw about a year ago this same exact model. I actually just learned from your video how to lean out the carb high and low. Thank you for that. Also learned about that oil adjuster because mine was the same way, id fill it with oil and it would just run out like crazy and be empty so fast. Thank you so much please keep them coming.
It's been good to see these three saws from another person's perspective. You invited comments, so I'll be very frank and address two aspects: 1. Your video presentation quality. 2. The Wemars noise and detail, not necessarily in this order. 🤭 It's been an enjoyable three videos, but so frustrating on the Wemars for me as I was watching and hoping you'd get to two points the 2nd addressing your curio at the end about that noise which I personally would have liked to hear you describe in more detail. Ill label that farther further below. I think you need to pick up on details and describe them more, express your thoughts more, look for any subtle frivalous humour you can inject whenever the opportunity arises, even if you have too think outside your comfort zone. Explain things in more detail. It would help if you were clearer speaking, so speak up with confidence, a little as if you are educating. No detention please! 😊 (You see! Humor like that, youre not up for the light comedy awards but it sets the mood and helps for a good vibe, I've watched 3 videos and I don't even know your name or channel name, if you have one). Call me inobservent but theres a lot to read in the media and it didn't stand out. Tech - Visual: You need to do checks on your filming and sound before continuing to record, it only take a xouple of minutes, right? It's so worth it. I like the workk bench overhead shot if no one else was available to f around your arms and movement but if you could reduce yhe hight with reducing the frame size much that wouldnbe cool and what you were doing there was for a while out of frame on one of the first two saws. Outside with the Wemars, that shot was pretty bad with stray light into the lens at the bottom of frame. You could have explained the strarting process any tips on gow to start it, what to look for, what not to do.all while the engone was off and only 2 mins of actually cranking reving idling, followed by you observations then any second trial after any alterations and an explanation of what happenong and why we need to adjust , a close up on where and how, etc details and tips. Sound: It would help to make sure that we can hear you clearly when you're running the engine, or wait until its off. When you returned to the camera with the engine still running you needed to speak much closer to the microohone (but not AT the mic' due to 'breath bombs', I think that's self explanatory) you know - like sports commentstors track side or in a noisy arena, they used to have a special mic' to hold close to their lips in an effort to drown out surrounding noise, rarely seen these days, but that's the principle) or kill the engine first! That's if you can't mic yourself up close to your mouth, (with the volume balanced with the previous recordings, obviously (I guess it's automatic recording level, but at least ensure the voice is clear). Speak more positively as if you are not alone, as if you are looking someone in the face, don't mumble. Remember, this is meant as "constructive criticism", it's an exercise that all performers, artists, learn to do to improve and maintain quallity of product, your videos are the product. WEMARS RUNNING NOISE: Right at the start you unscrewed the clutch / chain brake cover and two washers dropped out one perhaps rubber a d you referred to them as being “ perhaps "transportation packaging", theyre not! You discarded them nearly knocking them off the bench with the saw while telling us that you didn't know what's causing the noise.from.yhe clutch or chain sprocket area and not once did you look at the inside of the chain brake cover! You may have seen scratching which would indicate chain abrasion and gove you a clue. The washers came off with the cover because they belong on the bolt posts before the cover goes on and I think you'll find the black rubber one goes on the post nearest the front/farthest from the clutch. Now I don't know for sure if this is all it takes to help stop the noise you heard from that area, buddy, but I'm really interested to know if those washers make a difference, after all, they are there for a reason, they're meant to be retained not discarded and there is a reference to them or at least the rubber one, in a Wemars manual I read for a 20" model. OBSERVATIONS: I was waiting for you to also point out one major, obvious difference between the Wemars and the other two, not fhat Ive experienced the other two; they probably had plastic turbine covers on the kppoksite side from the clutch, and the 20" Wemars I tried had metal! I presume your 20" had the same metal cover, that's a major bonus in my opinion! It can get banged up on the job and metal is gonna protect way better. There you are my friend, it pays to do a little heavy readin' now and again! 😂 Okay, light reading, but when all you want to do is 'the man thang' - "Man, go cut wood - Now!" - well then it's heavy reading and your brain hurts! 😏 Or is that just me!? However, for all impulsive people out there still reading this comment, (contrary to type) SAFETY FIRST! READ MANUAL. WEAR SAFETY EQUIPMENT LIKE A PRO', if you can, at least dry gloves, sturdy, grippy shoes or boots, proper eye protection, (not your Ralf Lauren Polo prescription glasses) I witnessed those with glass lenses get shattered once right on the guy's face. Being sharp, he had closed his eyes quickly and was not injurred at all but only as he had been lucky. Goggles or a full-face to neck mesh or preferably clear perspex screen and 4th if possible a hard hat in case of ckickback and falling and flying dead wood after dropping a dead branch. Snd dont forget that deay chainsaw kickback.
I bought the sup mix saw. So far so good. It starts easy and restarts even easier. That right there is huge. When I have to shut down my saw for a few minutes the last thing I need is to struggle getting it restarted. I am running the oil heavier than usual and eventually will end up with a 40:1 mix. The bar oils good and is a very comfortable saw. This saw has a lot of power and should run the 18” bar comfortably. You have to be careful with that shutoff switch.
That’s funny, mine started in three pulls. If you would have opened the throttle then pulled the choke , it probably wouldn’t have taken your 32 pulls to start.
It certainly looks like it. I have run a few tanks through it so far and it's still holding up. I haven't disassembled it yet to see how bad it really is.
@@Havensal1why don't you return the bloody thing and mention, as the complaint, "Pitting inside cylinder wall". No one gets better unless they are helped to raise the bar (excuse the pun). 😄
@r.martin3494 Amazon doesn't allow returns on chainsaws. I probably could get a refund, but I had a pretty good idea what o was getting into when ordering them. I have already gotten a refund on the Pinkway due to the missing bar and chain. To be honest, I wanted to run it and see if that pitting got any worse or shortened the life of the saw any. I doubt anyone else ordering these saws are going to tear them apart and inspect them. It wouldn't be a real world review if I got to cherry pick the saw.
@@Havensal1 I understand that. I'm surprised Amazon don't take returns on these items, I bet that's caught out a few people before! Many thanks for your reply. Man that Wemars cylinder was dirty. Just shows, you only get what you pay for, but hey, for light use, they serve a purpose.
I'm a little disappointed that there was no side by side comparison of the other saws in the thumbnail. I'll look and see if you have that video but thats what I was expecting from thumbnain.
I’m new to running gas chainsaws. Could you show more of the leaning out that you did? I could not see clearly what you were doing. Otherwise a very nice in depth view. I recently purchased a wemars chainsaw. Opened the box which was packed just like yours was only the manual inside was for a Homelite 14 inch ELECTRIC chainsaw! Good grief. Mine was a wemars 18 inch saw but it was a wrong model and cc. Not the best way for a new chainsaw user to start . I just wanted something with more power than my B&D battery alligator saw. Been looking at every review I can find.
I just use a small flat blade screwdriver and turn the adjustment screw in. Usually 1/8 turn at a time. Just be careful, it's better to be too rich than lean. If it's too lean that you risk starving for oil and will score you piston and cylinder.
So do you just have to keep pulling and pulling til it starts cause I just got the 52cc and I couldn’t for the life of me get that thing going yesterday and I really need to today.
Your videos are awesome, im a huge fan your really knowledgeable and I hope you keep making videos. I bought this saw about a year ago this same exact model. I actually just learned from your video how to lean out the carb high and low. Thank you for that. Also learned about that oil adjuster because mine was the same way, id fill it with oil and it would just run out like crazy and be empty so fast. Thank you so much please keep them coming.
You didn't read the manual! Geez!
It's been good to see these three saws from another person's perspective. You invited comments, so I'll be very frank and address two aspects:
1. Your video presentation quality.
2. The Wemars noise and detail, not necessarily in this order. 🤭
It's been an enjoyable three videos, but so frustrating on the Wemars for me as I was watching and hoping you'd get to two points the 2nd addressing your curio at the end about that noise which I personally would have liked to hear you describe in more detail. Ill label that farther further below.
I think you need to pick up on details and describe them more, express your thoughts more, look for any subtle frivalous humour you can inject whenever the opportunity arises, even if you have too think outside your comfort zone. Explain things in more detail. It would help if you were clearer speaking, so speak up with confidence, a little as if you are educating. No detention please! 😊 (You see! Humor like that, youre not up for the light comedy awards but it sets the mood and helps for a good vibe, I've watched 3 videos and I don't even know your name or channel name, if you have one). Call me inobservent but theres a lot to read in the media and it didn't stand out.
Tech -
Visual: You need to do checks on your filming and sound before continuing to record, it only take a xouple of minutes, right? It's so worth it. I like the workk bench overhead shot if no one else was available to f around your arms and movement but if you could reduce yhe hight with reducing the frame size much that wouldnbe cool and what you were doing there was for a while out of frame on one of the first two saws. Outside with the Wemars, that shot was pretty bad with stray light into the lens at the bottom of frame. You could have explained the strarting process any tips on gow to start it, what to look for, what not to do.all while the engone was off and only 2 mins of actually cranking reving idling, followed by you observations then any second trial after any alterations and an explanation of what happenong and why we need to adjust , a close up on where and how, etc details and tips.
Sound: It would help to make sure that we can hear you clearly when you're running the engine, or wait until its off. When you returned to the camera with the engine still running you needed to speak much closer to the microohone (but not AT the mic' due to 'breath bombs', I think that's self explanatory) you know - like sports commentstors track side or in a noisy arena, they used to have a special mic' to hold close to their lips in an effort to drown out surrounding noise, rarely seen these days, but that's the principle) or kill the engine first! That's if you can't mic yourself up close to your mouth, (with the volume balanced with the previous recordings, obviously (I guess it's automatic recording level, but at least ensure the voice is clear).
Speak more positively as if you are not alone, as if you are looking someone in the face, don't mumble. Remember, this is meant as "constructive criticism", it's an exercise that all performers, artists, learn to do to improve and maintain quallity of product, your videos are the product.
WEMARS RUNNING NOISE:
Right at the start you unscrewed the clutch / chain brake cover and two washers dropped out one perhaps rubber a d you referred to them as being “
perhaps "transportation packaging", theyre not! You discarded them nearly knocking them off the bench with the saw while telling us that you didn't know what's causing the noise.from.yhe clutch or chain sprocket area and not once did you look at the inside of the chain brake cover! You may have seen scratching which would indicate chain abrasion and gove you a clue. The washers came off with the cover because they belong on the bolt posts before the cover goes on and I think you'll find the black rubber one goes on the post nearest the front/farthest from the clutch. Now I don't know for sure if this is all it takes to help stop the noise you heard from that area, buddy, but I'm really interested to know if those washers make a difference, after all, they are there for a reason, they're meant to be retained not discarded and there is a reference to them or at least the rubber one, in a Wemars manual I read for a 20" model.
OBSERVATIONS:
I was waiting for you to also point out one major, obvious difference between the Wemars and the other two, not fhat Ive experienced the other two; they probably had plastic turbine covers on the kppoksite side from the clutch, and the 20" Wemars I tried had metal! I presume your 20" had the same metal cover, that's a major bonus in my opinion! It can get banged up on the job and metal is gonna protect way better.
There you are my friend, it pays to do a little heavy readin' now and again! 😂 Okay, light reading, but when all you want to do is 'the man thang' - "Man, go cut wood - Now!" - well then it's heavy reading and your brain hurts! 😏 Or is that just me!?
However, for all impulsive people out there still reading this comment, (contrary to type) SAFETY FIRST! READ MANUAL. WEAR SAFETY EQUIPMENT LIKE A PRO', if you can, at least dry gloves, sturdy, grippy shoes or boots, proper eye protection, (not your Ralf Lauren Polo prescription glasses) I witnessed those with glass lenses get shattered once right on the guy's face. Being sharp, he had closed his eyes quickly and was not injurred at all but only as he had been lucky. Goggles or a full-face to neck mesh or preferably clear perspex screen and 4th if possible a hard hat in case of ckickback and falling and flying dead wood after dropping a dead branch. Snd dont forget that deay chainsaw kickback.
@@r.martin3494 thanks for the feedback. I do appreciate it. I will keep this on mind on any future videos.
I bought the sup mix saw. So far so good. It starts easy and restarts even easier. That right there is huge. When I have to shut down my saw for a few minutes the last thing I need is to struggle getting it restarted. I am running the oil heavier than usual and eventually will end up with a 40:1 mix. The bar oils good and is a very comfortable saw. This saw has a lot of power and should run the 18” bar comfortably. You have to be careful with that shutoff switch.
That’s funny, mine started in three pulls. If you would have opened the throttle then pulled the choke , it probably wouldn’t have taken your 32 pulls to start.
Which of the three do you like better?
Helluva pit there in the cylinder wall
It certainly looks like it. I have run a few tanks through it so far and it's still holding up. I haven't disassembled it yet to see how bad it really is.
@@Havensal1why don't you return the bloody thing and mention, as the complaint, "Pitting inside cylinder wall". No one gets better unless they are helped to raise the bar (excuse the pun). 😄
@r.martin3494 Amazon doesn't allow returns on chainsaws. I probably could get a refund, but I had a pretty good idea what o was getting into when ordering them. I have already gotten a refund on the Pinkway due to the missing bar and chain. To be honest, I wanted to run it and see if that pitting got any worse or shortened the life of the saw any. I doubt anyone else ordering these saws are going to tear them apart and inspect them. It wouldn't be a real world review if I got to cherry pick the saw.
@@Havensal1
I understand that. I'm surprised Amazon don't take returns on these items, I bet that's caught out a few people before! Many thanks for your reply. Man that Wemars cylinder was dirty. Just shows, you only get what you pay for, but hey, for light use, they serve a purpose.
I'm a little disappointed that there was no side by side comparison of the other saws in the thumbnail. I'll look and see if you have that video but thats what I was expecting from thumbnain.
The first three videos are unboxing the individual saws. After that i put them head to head.
I’m new to running gas chainsaws. Could you show more of the leaning out that you did? I could not see clearly what you were doing. Otherwise a very nice in depth view. I recently purchased a wemars chainsaw. Opened the box which was packed just like yours was only the manual inside was for a Homelite 14 inch ELECTRIC chainsaw! Good grief. Mine was a wemars 18 inch saw but it was a wrong model and cc. Not the best way for a new chainsaw user to start . I just wanted something with more power than my B&D battery alligator saw. Been looking at every review I can find.
I just use a small flat blade screwdriver and turn the adjustment screw in. Usually 1/8 turn at a time. Just be careful, it's better to be too rich than lean. If it's too lean that you risk starving for oil and will score you piston and cylinder.
So do you just have to keep pulling and pulling til it starts cause I just got the 52cc and I couldn’t for the life of me get that thing going yesterday and I really need to today.
If nothing elsse a fella can take the best perts from each and built a good saw. This thing sounds like it has a air leak clearly.
That's what I thought. I have been running it a bit and I hear/see no other signs of an air leak.
Take of clutch cover and top cover spray intake and flywheel and clutch when running if it has a leak the carb cleaner effect the running of the saw.
Way too tight!