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Where is the gaming mat used in the video from?

First advert after 1 minute, second after five minutes! Do you decide that or is it TH-cam killing your views? Giving up now.

This looks pretty good. But for me, I'm not sure if it looks enough better than the normal underpainting plus Contrast to be worth the extra time. Maybe on some models... anyway it's another tool in my toolkit, available to use at the right time!

Really good video. Thank you for sharing this. I do have a question though about the panel liner you used. I've had a real problem with it. Reactivating speed paints and even sometimes reactivating monument paints. Any suggestions there? I've seen about a seal layer and then doing it. Is that the trick? Also, I noticed you used a pen that was really delicate for your panel lining. Where did you get that?

this is a interesting method, first i have heard about it. i am not a big user of slap chop, i prefer the old layering, glazing techniques. but i do like to learn new stuff. great video.

Great video

First time hearing about this technic, looks good. I agree on not using zenithal paints for the skin 👍

Great and well explained tutorial. Didn't know about this technique🙌

Fantastic! Thank you!

Gives a grungy look, albeit easily readable.

Excellent video. Thanks. How long do you leave to dry before 2nd slap chop drybrushing?

Don just recently had the poll how it should be called and here it is now! You explained and showed the process very well. I am happy to found the channel! Sadly people in the comment always complain about how something is called or been actually around, but funnily no one really talks about this "techniques I have done already for 20 years".

Hello, what grey primer did you basecoat with? And was it airbrush or brush on? I cannot get the Vallejo primer to airbrush well at all, and brushing it on leaves it streaky, so any thoughts or insight are appreciated, thank you!

A vary happy new year to you and yours. This year, hobby wise, it already looks like it's going to surpass last year. For me, the original slap chop method of black, grey, and white with contrasting paints brings the miniature a bit to close to the grim dark side. On the other side, a single method falls a bit short. I am currently using what I am calling chromatic chop. I avoid blacks and greys. I also avoid pure white. It seems to be the culprit for the chalky-ness. Instead, I lay down deeper shades of my contrasting paint. Highlighting in shades like bone, ivory. grey white and light / maiden's flesh. But this method still has issues. If the highlight didn't pop or a midtone has a flood of shadow, these have to be fixed by laying. Finally, the figure looks a bit out of focus, needing sharpening with a lining method. As no slap method completely does the job, I use it for the rank and file with a slap method while using layering for commanders and characters. I'm sure a slap method will crack it, but we have a way to go yet. The contrasting paints are at version 2 at the moment, and they also have room to improve. For example, I saw my first acrylics in the early 80s and were great if you liked using 10 to 20 coats. Today's acrylics can often get there in one or two coats. So, for me, the promise of contrasting paints is a solid one.

Double slap chop has been around for a looong time. Its NOT new

You mean preshading

What do you use as a varnish and does this skip steps like nuln oil

Great results. Nice job.

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what did you use as the power supply?

Hi from Snowy Canada 👋 Cool video, thinking of basing an 82nd Airborne army for Bolt Activion V3 (Battle of the Bulge). Maybe I missed it, but what kind of snow flock were you using?

Recon Panthers??? That sounds super exciting

Always use an eye dropper to keep you palette wet. Keep the sponge on the slightly drier side. Before you add a paint to an area, use the eye dropper to moisten that area first. Every so often add water along the edges to keep relative humidity from getting too low. Always use distilled water. I came here to see this particular palette. Do you not have to prepare the sheets? The ones I use need to be heated first, but look much thicker or sturdier than what I could notice in the video. No way the sheets I have now would wrinkle. I will probably get this palette just for the size and convience of have all the palettes together. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the tips.

I wish there was a Dollarrama here at Tampa

Atmospheric and superb bases, thanks for sharing!

Informative tutorial!

I was gifted the Steel game and it has been 40 years since i painted miniatures. I have the american and soviet set. What colors would you suggest to paint these?

I started painting miniatures seriously at 10… 👍

This is great, just missing a passed out Pa clutching his broken ribs just inside the barn 😂

Tonal control is critical for youtube videos

Another great video. Just that Napoleonics are just not my cup of tea. I've heard that a company is making pen markers this time, they will be filled with Army Painter Speed paints. So this will make things interesting. 😊

Nice work!

sometimes i run into pieces that are really hard to push together, I dont want any pieces to break is there a recommendation on the best way to get them to fit. is this where i should be sanding or buy some oil or something else?

To be fair with regard to the commentary below. I don not like the effect of Speed Paints or Contrast where they are painted over white and the white is allowed to dominate the finished colour. It always looks like a bad water painting to me.

These are Historical figures so the lore of painting your own colours is more severely restrictive. In this case you got every thing wrong. First of all, aging the white parts of the uniform and adding pink to the epaulettes and turnback's to demonstrate aging fails to take into account two things. Between battles and even on campaign, troops had plenty of time to maintain and keep their equipment up to scratch. Further, the Young Guard are an elite unit expected to present an image above the standard of the ordinary rank and file. What is even worse is you used a light blue speed paint over a white zenithal which too light a colour. To set that all off was the footage of the Guard in combat before you presented the paint job. When a unit is uniformed in darker colours and you use Speed Paint or Contrast, you need a dark grey for your base coat and do not water down the blue you use. It is either that or don't name the unit after a historical organisation of paint them the correct colours.

Great looking French YG, superb painting and basing!

Thank you for providing inspiration!!

Thanks so simple but I couldn’t think of it ❤❤❤😂

The Winsor & Newton series 7 have long been my favorite line, but like you, I've found I tend to abuse them like I do the cheaper synthetics. Great review!

Very nice 👌

❤

Any generic oil paint work just as well. For the price of paying for brand name products people are paying way too much for this stuff. Spend your money smarter and buy more models........

First up, i hope that's not a cold you're coming down with. If so, take it easy. Definitely goats hair. You know about us Australians and sheep. I couldn't get a good look at that flat brush. Possibly a Filbert or cat's tongue, ok, i hang out at the art supple shop way too much. I have no idea how you're supposed to use them or for what. I use 3 sets of brushes. One for terrain and bases, one for painting wargame figurines, and the last for display models only and are WN Series 7. Over the past 30 years, my satisfaction with brushes has been on the decline. I think this is my fault. As my skills have increased, i may be expecting more. There is a lot of relabelling and price inflation out there. If i use a brush that i paid a few cents for and its tip heels over after the first time, I'll pick another and keep going. If it happens to my brand new WN after first use, I'll take it back to the store. So i suppose we must manage our expectation level. There are very few brush sets out there for miniature painters. I know of another from Europe, but they want a couple of hundreds of dollars for it. Given the price being asked for this set, i will get a set a set to try as they are asking a price thats worth the risk. As for the European set, they can forget it.

I actually stumbled across the black set a while back by accident and bought them. I use the drybrush extensively and love it. the other brushes hold their points well and overall, I'm very satisfied with them.

Thank you for sharing your expertise 🎉❤🎉

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Anavrin is just an expensive retailer, with 2 or three original products of their own. Seeing the quality in your video, not even worth the price either lol. When you go to their site, you see a lot of DIY kits from Robotime and their subproducts Rokr, and Cutebee, which is actually the brand called Hongda originally. You have a very nice video though, I hope it's worth the affiliate commission, because they should have paid you for creating the video as an influencer. All these Chinese (re)brands do this, send you the kits and are 'proud' to have you join as an affiliate, but are actually pretty cheap in paying you good money for a nice video like yours.

A great intro to then new paint markers from AK. I picked up 9 to try out. I must admit my overall reaction to them is somewhat neutral. Where they made a truly great impression, they were found wanting in others. Coverage and evenness are outstanding. One of my test models was a 1/100 3D printed Panzer 4 with turret and side skirts. I use it to test the visual impact of German camouflage schemes. It only took 2 coats to completely cover the previous camouflage and tried to a nice dull sheen. Now we come to that tip. Just as you found that the point looks sharp, for 15mm, it's just not sharp enough. The tip gets broad very quickly. This meant that for areas between the hull and side armour, I had to go back to brush as the tip could not reach the bottom of the detail as its broadness got stuck. For picking out details like tracks, lenses, and tools, these markers are really great. For the moment, the range of colours is tiny, real tiny. For even scale modelling, you need a wide range covering vehicles, uniforms, ships, and aircraft across many time periods, just like wargaming. So there is not enough range for even block style modulation. Being alcohol based acrylics, these markers should be great at wet on wet blending but lack the range to do it. Oddly, these markers did not bomb out but didn't blow me away either. I think the future of these markers lies in how quickly AK expands the range of colours. I'm pleased that I'm not the only one left numb by them.

Oh yeah, these markers rock for wargamong models!