This a really good, simple method. I often find personally that a metallic sheen can also help when faking translucency, so replacing the black and grey with dark and bright silver tones, you can add a little extra punch to your glass.
Congratulations on 218 episodes. Really, has it been that many? How time flies. You are so right about how acrylic technologies have exploded over the last 2 decades. The curve is almost vertical. 😮 For windows and lenses, I have an ultra quick super cheat for you. First, I give the area to be treated a base coat of gloss black primer. Brand is not important, but give it plenty of time to dry. Now bring in the super weapon! From Green Stuff World, I use Cobolt Blue from their ColorShift metal range. Depending on the angle of light sources, it changes colour from a deep blue to a light blue. As the model moves or the viewer angle changes, so does the colour shift. People who have seen my models remark on how this effect somehow brings the model to life. However, like all techniques, this will not be to everyone's taste. I use it just for my tabletop models as I believe display models are for you to demonstrate your modelling and painting skills. The best thing about this technique is that it goes a long way to capture the changing reflections coming off glass, and it saves me a lot of time. Cheap and down and dirty, but highly effective. For protection, I use 2 coates of ultra gloss. The only drawback is if a panel gets scratched, you have to redo the whole panel, including the gloss black primer, as trying to patch it up is extremely obvious. Unfortunately, I haven't found a suitable colorshift for red, orange, and green lenses. Vallejo has also released a competing range, but nothing for my military lenses. Green Stuff World's website is www.greenstuffworld.com. Even out here in Australia, I can purchase their range of products from 2 different hobby stores. Well here's to the next 218 episodes. 😊🎉
Love it! I do a similar thing often using metallics to bring out the glass effect. If you can get them where you are, Arteza do a nice pack of 10 iridescent colours; my favourites include the two purples (one has a blue shift, the other more of a gold), Fancy Black (which has a brassy tint in the right light), and a red with a lovely pink reflection. I've painted a whole model car (a Transformer, actually) with the red, and I _love_ the effect it gives off.
Looks really good. How do you think the windows would look if you stayed on grey all the way through - grey Speedpaint at the end, maybe? Regards from Nottingham (yes, really)
Kinda pointless, IMHO, the main purpose of the blue is to tint the zenithal base. I guess you could use it to knock the color back to darker gray and it does help a bit smoothing the color transitions.
This looks like a nice and effective technique, but it's too much of a "cartoony" look for my tastes. Plus it draws too much attention to the windows and away from the model. I think if going for a tabletop/wargaming quality, either transparent or the black/single shade color you show at the beginning of the video is good enough (in fact, actual photographs of helicopters or planes often look as if they had "black" glass); and if going for a realistic diorama look, I think one simply cannot avoid using proper transparent "glass". All of this in my opinion, of course.
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218 videos is a lot! congratulations on your accomplishment Joe!
Thanks!
This a really good, simple method. I often find personally that a metallic sheen can also help when faking translucency, so replacing the black and grey with dark and bright silver tones, you can add a little extra punch to your glass.
Nice idea! I will give it a try.
Awesome timing! I have some Fallschirmjäger Assault Gliders to paint up and I was trying to figure out windows! I will be trying this ! Thank you
This was a great follow up to the original tutorial! Thanks for sharing this.
You’re welcome I am glad you liked it.
Interesting, thanks.
You're welcome
Currently working on my marine boxset and have come to this hurlde today, gave this a go and it worked out great!
Looks cool.
Congratulations on 218 episodes. Really, has it been that many? How time flies. You are so right about how acrylic technologies have exploded over the last 2 decades. The curve is almost vertical. 😮
For windows and lenses, I have an ultra quick super cheat for you.
First, I give the area to be treated a base coat of gloss black primer. Brand is not important, but give it plenty of time to dry. Now bring in the super weapon!
From Green Stuff World, I use Cobolt Blue from their ColorShift metal range. Depending on the angle of light sources, it changes colour from a deep blue to a light blue. As the model moves or the viewer angle changes, so does the colour shift. People who have seen my models remark on how this effect somehow brings the model to life. However, like all techniques, this will not be to everyone's taste. I use it just for my tabletop models as I believe display models are for you to demonstrate your modelling and painting skills. The best thing about this technique is that it goes a long way to capture the changing reflections coming off glass, and it saves me a lot of time. Cheap and down and dirty, but highly effective.
For protection, I use 2 coates of ultra gloss. The only drawback is if a panel gets scratched, you have to redo the whole panel, including the gloss black primer, as trying to patch it up is extremely obvious. Unfortunately, I haven't found a suitable colorshift for red, orange, and green lenses. Vallejo has also released a competing range, but nothing for my military lenses.
Green Stuff World's website is www.greenstuffworld.com. Even out here in Australia, I can purchase their range of products from 2 different hobby stores.
Well here's to the next 218 episodes. 😊🎉
Love it! I do a similar thing often using metallics to bring out the glass effect.
If you can get them where you are, Arteza do a nice pack of 10 iridescent colours; my favourites include the two purples (one has a blue shift, the other more of a gold), Fancy Black (which has a brassy tint in the right light), and a red with a lovely pink reflection. I've painted a whole model car (a Transformer, actually) with the red, and I _love_ the effect it gives off.
@Brickerbrack Great to hear about your version of doing glass. If we don't experiment, the hobby will stop moving forward.
Wonderful 🥰🥰
Weird I just searched for this and saw your old tutorial and here we go a day later a new video.
I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Looks really good. How do you think the windows would look if you stayed on grey all the way through - grey Speedpaint at the end, maybe?
Regards from Nottingham (yes, really)
Kinda pointless, IMHO, the main purpose of the blue is to tint the zenithal base.
I guess you could use it to knock the color back to darker gray and it does help a bit smoothing the color transitions.
Hmm I don’t think you would get the illusion of depth. Would be worth a try.
This looks like a nice and effective technique, but it's too much of a "cartoony" look for my tastes. Plus it draws too much attention to the windows and away from the model. I think if going for a tabletop/wargaming quality, either transparent or the black/single shade color you show at the beginning of the video is good enough (in fact, actual photographs of helicopters or planes often look as if they had "black" glass); and if going for a realistic diorama look, I think one simply cannot avoid using proper transparent "glass".
All of this in my opinion, of course.