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Please clearing indicate you are discussing the -from global perspective- the exceptional situaton for USA only. Split phase 240V are rare in most of the world where 120 degree 3 phase systems are common with 230V between phase and neutral and 400V between phases. And of course ground is NEVER considered as ground as with asymmetric loading you by design will have a delta between ground and neutral!

Wrong😂 If they do this with n, it is a full sinus. Probe will light in both poles😊🎉 AC in socet is only a pulsing DC‼️‼️‼️‼️ against earth n😂

So I've been using a 3000 spf 24v for awhile and it's been problem free but I'm now looking to purchase a back up inverter just in case my current unit fails. I see a 3000 HVM 24v which is high voltage. I'm wondering if this would be a good unit to purchase to hook up like for like if my SPF failed? I have 300ah of battery and could add 1 more 100ah and have 2000watts of panels hooked up. Any advise?

Thanks for the video! The procedure worked perfectly!

These burn out when the user exceed the specifications, or the unit can't handle the load for too long and explode due poor quality. You get what you pay for.

Good to know. Great explanation. Thanks again for the help.

Unbonded - use a 3-way light switch.

Easy solufion: th-cam.com/video/USdBTyLBuzI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zoH0xN0hTKKeu5gK

@ReelClearMediaLLC Excellent video. Question: I have a grid assisted battery back up system with no solar. I'm using a EG4 3000W inverter. I have a dedicated 30A circuit coming from my house sub-panel to my AC-in at the inverter. The house ground and neutral is always connected to my inverter. This inverter has a common neutral configuration, therefore, the house ground and neutral is passed through the inverters' AC-in to the AC-out. I was thinking of tying into my house sub-panel to feed some house circuits with a transfer switch, however, since my inverter is permanently tied to the grids' neutral and ground there would be two ground and neutral paths between the inverter and my house sub-panel (one ground/neutral from my 30A dedicated circuit feeding my inverter and one ground/neutral feeding the sub-panel through the transfer switch). This would create a ground loop and neutral loop. Would this create any issues?

Always buy only UL listed equipment that is pure sine wave only.

Reliance has switch neutral series as well but we did not see any videos on YT, hopefully one day you are be able to review them. 👍 video

This item has been on my want list for a while now. IMO a big advantage of supporting bonded inverters is that when it's not being used with the EZ Generator it will still work without it. I could mess with unbonding the inverter and then adding a neutral-ground plug whenever needed, but that seems like an accident waiting to happen!

Thank you for the videos on the pro tran switch. You answered my question perfectly. I was confused about how to wire the two phases together for my eg4 3000w inverter. Thank you again for taking the time to make this video.

Best instructional videos and been tons of help on multiple occasions👍

Look for Inverters that are UL 1741 certified.

Have you tried using an isolation transformer between the inverter output and panel? Would make for a good video.

Great content man. Thanks

Any power inverter that has a three prong outlet with the ground floating or just a hole for the third prong is not going to be listed by any certified electrical safety agency. No way that would pass. If the device is un-grounded, that can be OK, but it cannot then have grounded outlets. So keep that in mind, what else did they cut corners on for cost?

I have the same situation but with 220v, and I'm wondering. I could just earth the phase one, making it true neutral. And isolate the orginal earth wire to prevent short circuits.

Great video

I use a Victron multi plus I Inverter that is designed to be hard wired to my panel. I need to check my generator, it's a Honda 3000 Watt inverter genny I'm pretty sure it doesn't put out 60v on each leg I never thought about that being a top Brand. Hopefully it's not like these cheap inverters.

Actually - this is very wrong. The low frequency inverter produces very nice sine waves at 60Hz and sends them through a 60Hz transformer. The High frequency inverter takes the DC and sends high frequency square waves through very small ferrite transformers. The voltage on the secondary side is about 340vdc. This is then inverted onto 60Hz square waves.

So the solution is not to buy inverters from AliExpress?

I used a high frequency cheap inverter to power the whole house, the danger was the battery poles became live wires and I received a couple of shocks. When I replaced it with a low frequency invert the "live poles" issue was gone.

Excellent. Info

I can't give you a thumbs up, nor a thumbs down, because you are not malicious. There are two standards. One sided 120 volts, and centertap. CENTERTAP means a center, like in a two winding transformer. The ground is in-between two 60 AC systems. This is an educated and fundamentally more solid system and you will find it in portable generators, radio installations, ham, military, and commercial radios, and older homes. The one side of a 240 volt system comes from Thomas Edison. Edison was a dumbbell. He never understood radio or voltage potential. What is important, is what system you have, your system is placarded so no electrician can force his favorite standard over the other standard. About my pure sine wave inverters: All three of my camper sized inverters have no connection on the AC side to battery ground. The very first thing I would do if I wanted to use my inverters in an existing house wiring, is disconnect the house from the utility wires altogether. You don't ground either side, but you earth the third wire, and not by bonding anything directly to the inverter. If I wire an off grid cabin, and it has an AC component, I will CENTERTAP it and placard it. It's the better system.

So short out ground and neutral, measure to check? Okay regular plug checker will do..

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Near all inverters on the market gives out IT powergrid (Insulated Terra) That is the powerstandard in Norway running on 220-240V 50 Hz. Rest of the world using now on days TN powergrid (Terra Neutral) IT powergrid is example output in N wire 110-120V and L1 wire 110-120V. That can be from ground to N wire 110-120V and from ground to L1 wire also same voltage. TN powergrid is output on N wire 0V and L1 wire 220-240V. Some cars we have in Norway of electric cars need TN powergrid to be able to charge, only 5% have that support in Norway.

vERY GOOD INFO. 60+ AND 60-. OUCH.

6:12 that device should NOT have ground wire connected to any of the voltage output terminals, but should only have output ground directly wired to AC input terminal (C14 connector in this case). Tester should show "Ground fault" when connected to the output but show "Correct" if device is plugged into an AC outlet, regardless if the outlet was live or not and regardless if the device was in bypass or on-battery mode! Some of these devices have their ground input-output bridge connected to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery. Keep that in mind if you want to play with external batteries, chargers, PV panels, MPPT converters etc. Or watch sparks or expensive white smoke coming from somewhere. All devices connected to this type of inverter should have their ground routed ONLY through the inverter, or the overvoltage protection circuit (usually installed inside of those devices) will not work (i.e. protect your sensitive equipment from voltage surges). If you connect the ground directly to the ground bus (i.e. in you electric box) it would still work great, but your equipment will not be protected.

4:57 interesting Load Appliance example. I'd like to see real light bulb image where the neutral and ground is connected.

Great explainaering,

Thank You Very Much for the important information. I’m always learning! 😮

2000w AIN'T SMALL.... Toggle Switch, 5Pcs 9 Pin 2 Position Type Mini Toggle Switch 3PDT ON/ON 12mm 12mm 15A/250VAC You can isolate the grounds, hots, and neutrals with the flip of a switch. Even disconnect the ground from a house circuit with a little finesse. Pretty simple really.

I was blind but now I see! Great example and presentation, I understand now. Watching the entire playlist.

I can touch my ground wire sooo I don't think its live 60v?? wet hands

It comes down to having sufficient knowledge to be able to perform proper tests to determine how the inverter works. The average person off the street usually doesn't (see all the other comments in the thread for evidence of that!), and that's understandable. All electricians should absolutely have the knowledge and understanding to test but alas a lot don't. It's not just a case of whacking a DMM across something and measuring it as the high input impedance of a DMM (typically 10M) will indicate voltage even when the source itself is high impedance. Many countries now prohibit portable inverters / generators and such from having anything connected to the earth (ground) pin on sockets and terminal strips unless the device has an integrated RCD (GFCI). Fully isolated operation like this is perfectly safe as it requires a double fault situation for a person to be shocked (or worse).

Alternative title can be like SELV vs PELV

Well that killed my urge to trip my transfer switch and connect a male to male ac to my house (the infamous iffy backfeeding.) I always figured it was horrible idea anyway, but I never knew it was because of this! I've never even bothered to check voltages across the main lines on the inverter. Very interesting.

One fun thing I learned is that sometimes, when hardwiring them, plugging something into the built-in AC ports can cause a whole lot of problems, including the 60v voltage mentioned in this video. Many videos solved this, but they did not explain this in any detail! A big thank you for a resource to give to other people to understand this.

Can ghost voltage zap you? I get that a lot from my inverter. Its not connected to utility, just to an extension cord and a few solar panels.

Oh bollocks.. a whole new area of crap i need to research.. when am i supposed to sleep? 😂

Great info!

Many transfer switches ONLY SWITCH the LINE (HOT). They do nothing with the Neutral. You need to specifically search for Neutral-Switching Transfer Switch, and the cost will be nearly double that of a common TS (such as Reliance). So it may be better to use a non-bonded inverter with a normal transfer switch. Your electrician can be helpful in making the determination (more labor is required for a neutral-switching installation).

Nice.

Holy cow! Who knew! I've been working with inverters for over 10 years, had no idea, especially that 60 V nonsense, yikes! I have a couple 3000 W inverters and use right now, I can't believe I've never blown anything up! Thank you so much.

Many of these small inverters won't work with Ground fault equipment to start with.

Yep.

Kinda pointless to wire an inverter to a house's grid unless you had a DC setup.