End is litle complex, if you show a graph of both box-es and show a marked line in grid/off/gen position then this will build a easy to understand path of cable connections. But, of course perfect video !.
*Warning* : The Reliance transfer switch does not switch neutral. That means that to get this to work the inverter input neutral ends up connected to the inverter output neutral. * This seems to work with many (most?) inverters, but it is not clear whether it is supported by the manufacturers of some inverters. (I have not seen a clear statement from Growatt, MPP or EG4 on this). * If the inverter you are using does dynamic Neural-Ground bonding, there will be two Neutral-Ground bonds when the inverter is powering from the battery (multiple bonds are dangerous). To prevent this, the dynamic bonding must be disabled. (This is typically done by removing an undocumented bonding screw deep inside the inverter) Note: Growatt added dynamic bonding to their inverters about a year ago and it is not clear how to tell the difference between units that have the dynamic bonding and the units that do not have the dynamic bonding.
Thanks, I wasn't aware of the dynamic bonding in newer units. The unit I bought doesn't have it, so I only have one bond in my whole electrical system. (in my main service panel outside, not shown in this video.)
ok but do any transfer switches have the ability to switch neutral? I mean there are also switches available from Generac, ConnecticutElectric, and Nature's Generator similar to this one. Are those units safer than the Reliance?
@@leftlink The reliance functions as a combination of both transfer switch and critical load box. I am not aware of any boxes like the Reliance where there are both individual breakers and the transfer switch function. However, traditional transfer switches with 3 poles that are placed in front of a critical load box will switch neutral.
@@centerrightproudamerican5727 so if my inverter uses "common neutral" wiring do I avoid any potential hazards using the Reliance transfer switch? Common neutral and ground-neutral bond in my main panel, and I am planning to use the pass through function.
@@leftlink Mostly yes. I say mostly because if there are GFCI breakers in the breaker box, the breaker in the Reliance needs to be a GFCI as well. THe neutral wiring has to be serial between the two breakers and the wiring gets a bit convoluted. If done properly GFCI breakers work fine and are safe, but if a service technician might make some incorrect assumptions and get shocked while working on the system. Are you on DIYSolarForum? There is a similar conversation going over there.
Thank you!!! I wasn't sure if I could connect my single phase wire from my inverter to both the red and black wires in the transfer switch...great explanation!!
@@ReelClearMediaLLC Knowing what you know at this point in time is pure GOLD! I'm a 66 year-old mechanical engineer and I have cared deeply about the transition to renewable/clean energy and conservation for more than 50 years. I'm having fun learning about programming and electrical - I'm jealous of people like you :)
Thanks for the clear video. I've wired one of these years ago and couldn't remember how it was done so a nice review. What do you recommend for using the inverter as the primary source feeding all circuits in the main panel (not just 6 or 10) and using grid as a backup?
Dear Clear Media, We all need to be aware of the common neutral that seems to be inherent in these Manual transfer switches. This means that it only works with inverters that support common ground. Can you please make this more clear ?
This is the only video ive seen that explains this clearly. Tyvm. Are there any disadvantages to plugging the inverter into the xfer switch as opposed to hardwiring it? It seems like that would give you the option to unplug it to connect another device like a gas generator?
Hardwiring is more permanent, the plug-in version seems more temporary, but probably wouldn't make any difference if you used a heavy-duty cord. I think I used 8awg on my AC.
I have the old system that has the push button breakers. I’ve had it so long and I’ve never hooked it up. I’m getting ready to hook it up now. What is the issue with this type of system? I cannot return it at this point.
I haven't owned the old model, so I cant say for sure... but it looks very similar, just the breakers are different. The push button breakers cant be easily changed like the new model. For example, you can replace two breakers with a double-pole breaker for 220v. It should work fine for you, just stay within the amp limits of the breakers.
Thank you very much for taking time to make this video. This is exactly the setup I wish to duplicate, with the exception that I do keep AC in from grid attached to my Growatt to help recharge battery overnight. Can you confirm that even when utility power is actively supplying your panel that you can put some of the circuits over to Gen/Solar? Do all switches have to be on same supply source or can they be mixed with some from Utility and some from solar?
Yes, I use the transfer switch almost every good solar day and run just one circuit on solar, my dining room air conditioner. The other circuits in the transfer switch are still powered by the grid (they are switched to "line" in the Pro-Tran). There are other circuits in my breaker panel are only powered by the grid and not run through the ProTran. In an emergency when we lose power, I switch all of the ProTran circuits over to solar. These are my important circuits: fridge, two window air conditioners, lighting, and some kitchen circuits to cook with. I have to manage power use and do most of the heavy loads while solar is being produced. That depends on the size of your battery. Since you have grid coming into the growatt, make sure you only have one ground and ONLY ONE place in your whole system that is bonded.
Great video, i'm currently working on the same setup. Would you create a followup video showing how you have the Growatt inverter wired , grounded and pulled to the transfer switch. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Planing to use the 10 or larger unit with a 5kw Growatts to lower my bill by running all 120V loads between 6am to 4:30Pm on solar ... Ill keep all 220 loads off during the day ...
I don't have a ground coming from my inverter. Actually a Growatt with a transformer splitting the single hot 240v into split phase L1,L2 and neutral. Edit: So I called Signature Solar and inquired about my Growatt 5000 ES, they told me it is not internally bonded. I also downloaded the manual for the Pro/Tran2 306C and on page 11 it states "The Protran2 does not switch the neutral wire. As such, it is intended to be used with a generator that has a floating neutral (ground and neutral not bonded) configuration" Which is what the Growatt is, essentially it operates as a gas generator as far a a floating neutral. The Pro/Tran2 should be able to run off the Growatt with L1, L2 and a neutral, but, I need to figure out how to ground it in case of a short circuit without creating another bond in my system. If I was to provide a ground, that I do not have coming from my inverter, but provide it from my panel box, would that create a double bond?
I'm not sure. The ES5000 was intended for use in Europe, and has a different wiring scheme than the US. What is labeled as N is seems to be what we would call Line 2. I know some TH-camrs have set these up with an autotransformer, but I don't have any experience in that.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC Growatt has now come out with their own transformer specifically for this issue. You run the supply from the inverter into the transformer and you then have L1, L2 and a floating neutral coming out. The more I think about it, I believe I can ground the transfer switch box from my sub panel box. The transfer switch already has a ground and neutral from my panel box for the 6 circuits when in line or grid mode.
@@azycray4801 If the only GN bond is back at the panel it SHOULD be ok, but I've not personally worked with these transformers. Of course, Double check voltages on everything with a meter...
No, I've never had it trip the grid breaker. When switching between grid and solar, I always turn off the air conditioner first, as the compressor in an ac unit needs time to reset pressure.
Does your Solar inverter have an AC input?. I want to setup my inverter with an AC input from the panel then connect the inverter to a transfer switch back to the same panel. I will have battery and solar connected also. basically when no solar and battery is low, then inverter will switch to grid power to feed the transfer switch. Treating the transfer switch like a sub panel. Is that possible. ?
I normally don't have AC in on my inverter. I have an 8awg extension cord attached to the AC in, just to emergency charge my batteries at low amps for the grid. Have only plugged it in and used AC charging a few times in the last few years. Normally, I manually switch individual circuits between solar and grid at the transfer switch. You could do what you are suggesting, but make sure you use a big enough cable (8awg or bigger) from the panel to the inverter, and from the inverter back to the transfer switch. Also, make sure you don't have a ground-to-neutral bond at the inverter. You only want one bond in your entire system, and that is already in your main panel.
No, I don't use the growatt's internal transfer switch to run loads. There's nothing wrong with doing it that way, I just use mine differently. The Growatt doesn't normally have a grid input. It has a heavy-duty 10 foot extension cord attached to the AC input. This cord is not normally connected to anything. In an unusual situation... such as several days with little sun, I can plug it into the wall or a generator, and use this only to charge batteries. I might have used it twice in three years. The ProTran is connected to the output of the Growatt, and is used to pick what I'm powering with solar. If I'm charging the car, I might not have any other circuits on solar. During a power outage, I would have all of the ProTran switches on gen(solar).
Because of the way you wired this up (only one hot line instead of 2) does this mean it's only getting 120v? And you cannot run circuits A+B together as a 40amp circuit? For example if you wanted to run a dryer on this, would it be impossible, unless you hooked the transfer switch up to both hot lines?
Correct. All of the circuits are 120v and limited to the power output (3000w) of the 120v growatt inverter. If I added another inverter or switched to a split-phase inverter, I could also use 240v breakers. This wasn't needed for my purposes... lights, refrigerators, 120v ac, computers, and electronics during a blackout.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC awesome, thanks for clearing that up. I'm considering getting an inverter around 6kw that can do split phase output at 240v, I'm looking to run my dryer potentially which is rated at 5600w. Would I need to get a stronger inverter more in the realm of 8k or higher? Or would a 6k or 6.5k work in this respect?
@@chrisernoii8441 You'd have to measure the startup surge with a clamp-on amp meter that can measure the input rush. I know EG4 shows their split phase running a dryer in one of their demo videos
Question, after everything being connected and switched to line everything works but I have a ghost voltage of 5vs but goes away when on generator which is fine but the problem is I’m afraid to have any of the circuits off or on line bc it has 5vs going back to my generator. Do you have any input on this?
That’s correct and having a voltage on the generator input for the transfer switch is kinda confusing I believe it’s ghost voltage but not sure if it can mess up my solar generator or not
I know it seems odd, but that's how the Pro-Tran is wired for a standard gas generator. I'm using my growatt as a generator. As always, if you're uncomfortable with the wiring, have an electrician do the job.
Very good question....you can do that if your Genset is not bonded ...then by doing so ...now it is bonded at the main panel. There many Chinese inverters that will be destroyed if you connect the ground with the neutral as shown in this video. In other words...the neutral of the inverter must be transfer as well....hence the transfer switch from this video will not work for this type of inverters.
I'm getting ready to install a very similar setup. I've heard about concerns with creating a ground loop when connecting ground and neutral. I've seen instances of folks discussing "floating" the neutrals. Do you have any insight on that?
You don't want to "float" the neutral. There should only be one ground and only one ground-to-neutral bond in the entire system. The breaker panel shown in this video is a sub panel, and not bonded. I connect the wire from the inverter ground to the panel ground, and from the inverter neutral to the neutral. They are NOT bonded in this panel, because my system is bonded and grounded at the main panel outside. That main panel was not shown in this video.
If you are using circuits in your household existing panel, there should already be a ground and a ground-to-neutral bond. you don't want to add another ground or bond, that causes a ground loop.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC OK, thank you for the response. That was my thinking but I don’t come from an electrical background so kind of learning as I go. Your use is essentially the exact same as what I am doing. One small difference is that I have a grid-tied solar system as well, but I am wiring my off grid system up completely independent of the grid tie and running to a transfer switch that I back up some circuits from my main panel within, just as you have shown. My grid tie system is on a completely different circuit, and will not receive signal from the off grid generator or the backed up loads in the event of a power outage, but all are grounded and Bonded to the main.
@@brianmills4891 You may want an electrician or a friend with electrical experience to double check. Make sure the grid tied system can't backfeed to the grid on a power outage. Again, only have one ground, and one ground to neutral bond in the whole system.
Hello there, I want to do the same connection it look pretty easy, but Im worried about the neutral bonding I have a Growatt 3kW Stackable Off-Grid Inverter | SPF 3000TL LVM-ES. Can you recommend me how to correctly connect to the transfer switch
Are you saying that the 230 cannot be used this way even if you know it's not bonded (Screw removed) internally? Thanks in advance! I plan on using 2 growatt spf5000es/us in parallel with auto transformer btw. @@ReelClearMediaLLC
@@mikenegron6162 Personally, I would NOT try to connect this back into existing house circuits with a relay switch, even with an auto-transformer. It might be possible using a transfer switch that switches hot and neutral, but even then there are too many potential problems. There are people using this in off-grid situations. You could run new breaker panels, just for these circuits.I have a 5000ES that i plan on using for electric vehicle charging. that circuit is 240v and completely seperate and isolated from the grid circuits. The only thing shared is the ground. People I trust like Will Prouse, and Ian at Watts247.com have put out videos warning people about the trying to use the ES in North America.Please be careful.
Thanks for the response! Not sure if it matters but my ES/US was purchased from Signature Solar. My understanding is that these were shipped Ground / Bond screw removed. In either case we attempted to do it (before reading your reply here) and it did not work. We got 120v to the transfer switch...on line it worked fine but once switched to Gen nothing would happen, meaning power would not pass through or rather it would not power the loads. Think I'm going to just sell these and go with something else that will work in this way. @@ReelClearMediaLLC
Yes, the whole Growatt can act as a transfer switch. You would use a breaker panel/load center after the growatt, and all of those circuits could be powered by solar or the grid feeding the Growatt. This could be controlled by setting 1. I wanted to use the existing household breaker panel during power outages. My setup allows me to use the growatt 24/7 for my computers and office, and by using the transfer switch, run circuits in the house during a power outage.
Since utility power and Growatt power are flowing through the panel with different phases. How are neutral lines (utility vs. inverter) power end up going?
I share the ground and neutral with the grid-powered breaker panel in my setup. Neutral and ground don't have a "phase". I haven't had any issues with wiring this way. In the case of the transfer switch, it's the same as using a backup generator.
Great video. I got the 10 circuit version and hooked it up to a 10 kW inverter with a 25 kWh rack of batteries, it's great for power outages! I should have done this years ago.
Similar question to my prior Honda EU200i question -- AIMS Inverter just has two AC hot outputs NO Neutral - AIMS Power PWRI150048S 48V Pure Sine Inverter, 1500W Continuous Power, 3000W Surge Power, 48V DC Input, Pure Sine Wave, Power source 48v golf cart. This inverter could be looked at like your solar input. Just 2 hots out, both 60 vac. Would this also work with this transfer switch thru the main house panel?? AIMS says - That inverter will actually have voltage on both the hot and the neutral and should not be grounded to either leg
I’m building a barn and will like to power it with a solar generator and a transfer switch to the circuits. Can I eliminate the panel box and just use the transfer switch as my panel if so would the transfer switch have to hav a earth ground ?
No, the transfer switch is made to connect to a breaker panel. If you're going to power the barn with just solar and no grid, you could just hook your inverter to a regular breaker box and put in a ground rod.
@@ronwood3214 If you aren't going to ever hook up to the grid, just use a high amperage cable and plug/outlet between the generator and your panel, like RVs do. Make sure to add a grounding rod, and only have one bonding point.
End is litle complex, if you show a graph of both box-es and show a marked line in grid/off/gen position then this will build a easy to understand path of cable connections. But, of course perfect video !.
Thanks for the suggestion! I just made a new video that shows how to wire the transfer switch. It will be released tonight.
Thank you for making this video and you detailed description of things help me figure out how to properly install my transfer switch 👍
awesome!
*Warning* : The Reliance transfer switch does not switch neutral. That means that to get this to work the inverter input neutral ends up connected to the inverter output neutral.
* This seems to work with many (most?) inverters, but it is not clear whether it is supported by the manufacturers of some inverters. (I have not seen a clear statement from Growatt, MPP or EG4 on this).
* If the inverter you are using does dynamic Neural-Ground bonding, there will be two Neutral-Ground bonds when the inverter is powering from the battery (multiple bonds are dangerous). To prevent this, the dynamic bonding must be disabled. (This is typically done by removing an undocumented bonding screw deep inside the inverter)
Note: Growatt added dynamic bonding to their inverters about a year ago and it is not clear how to tell the difference between units that have the dynamic bonding and the units that do not have the dynamic bonding.
Thanks, I wasn't aware of the dynamic bonding in newer units. The unit I bought doesn't have it, so I only have one bond in my whole electrical system. (in my main service panel outside, not shown in this video.)
ok but do any transfer switches have the ability to switch neutral? I mean there are also switches available from Generac, ConnecticutElectric, and Nature's Generator similar to this one. Are those units safer than the Reliance?
@@leftlink The reliance functions as a combination of both transfer switch and critical load box. I am not aware of any boxes like the Reliance where there are both individual breakers and the transfer switch function. However, traditional transfer switches with 3 poles that are placed in front of a critical load box will switch neutral.
@@centerrightproudamerican5727 so if my inverter uses "common neutral" wiring do I avoid any potential hazards using the Reliance transfer switch? Common neutral and ground-neutral bond in my main panel, and I am planning to use the pass through function.
@@leftlink Mostly yes. I say mostly because if there are GFCI breakers in the breaker box, the breaker in the Reliance needs to be a GFCI as well. THe neutral wiring has to be serial between the two breakers and the wiring gets a bit convoluted. If done properly GFCI breakers work fine and are safe, but if a service technician might make some incorrect assumptions and get shocked while working on the system.
Are you on DIYSolarForum? There is a similar conversation going over there.
Thank you!!! I wasn't sure if I could connect my single phase wire from my inverter to both the red and black wires in the transfer switch...great explanation!!
I'm glad it helped!
@@ReelClearMediaLLC Knowing what you know at this point in time is pure GOLD! I'm a 66 year-old mechanical engineer and I have cared deeply about the transition to renewable/clean energy and conservation for more than 50 years. I'm having fun learning about programming and electrical - I'm jealous of people like you :)
Thanks for the clear video. I've wired one of these years ago and couldn't remember how it was done so a nice review. What do you recommend for using the inverter as the primary source feeding all circuits in the main panel (not just 6 or 10) and using grid as a backup?
Thanks Dave Ramsey.👍
Dear Clear Media, We all need to be aware of the common neutral that seems to be inherent in these Manual transfer switches. This means that it only works with inverters that support common ground. Can you please make this more clear ?
so a floating neutral generator over a bonded neutral generator would work?
This is the only video ive seen that explains this clearly. Tyvm. Are there any disadvantages to plugging the inverter into the xfer switch as opposed to hardwiring it? It seems like that would give you the option to unplug it to connect another device like a gas generator?
Hardwiring is more permanent, the plug-in version seems more temporary, but probably wouldn't make any difference if you used a heavy-duty cord. I think I used 8awg on my AC.
I have the old system that has the push button breakers. I’ve had it so long and I’ve never hooked it up. I’m getting ready to hook it up now. What is the issue with this type of system? I cannot return it at this point.
I haven't owned the old model, so I cant say for sure... but it looks very similar, just the breakers are different.
The push button breakers cant be easily changed like the new model. For example, you can replace two breakers with a double-pole breaker for 220v.
It should work fine for you, just stay within the amp limits of the breakers.
Great video
Thank you very much for taking time to make this video. This is exactly the setup I wish to duplicate, with the exception that I do keep AC in from grid attached to my Growatt to help recharge battery overnight.
Can you confirm that even when utility power is actively supplying your panel that you can put some of the circuits over to Gen/Solar? Do all switches have to be on same supply source or can they be mixed with some from Utility and some from solar?
Yes, I use the transfer switch almost every good solar day and run just one circuit on solar, my dining room air conditioner. The other circuits in the transfer switch are still powered by the grid (they are switched to "line" in the Pro-Tran). There are other circuits in my breaker panel are only powered by the grid and not run through the ProTran.
In an emergency when we lose power, I switch all of the ProTran circuits over to solar. These are my important circuits: fridge, two window air conditioners, lighting, and some kitchen circuits to cook with. I have to manage power use and do most of the heavy loads while solar is being produced. That depends on the size of your battery.
Since you have grid coming into the growatt, make sure you only have one ground and ONLY ONE place in your whole system that is bonded.
Great video, i'm currently working on the same setup. Would you create a followup video showing how you have the Growatt inverter wired , grounded and pulled to the transfer switch. Thank you and keep up the good work.
I just added "grounding and bonding for inverters, part3" that shows the bonding for the transfer switch, but not detailed on the wiring.
Excellent video thank you!!! It really helps!!
I'm glad it helped
Planing to use the 10 or larger unit with a 5kw Growatts to lower my bill by running all 120V loads between 6am to 4:30Pm on solar ... Ill keep all 220 loads off during the day ...
That sounds awesome! I run my large loads (AC and EV charging) during the day. Our electric bill is typically less than $100.
How do you add a shutdown switch to meet fec 2020 code.
I don't have a ground coming from my inverter. Actually a Growatt with a transformer splitting the single hot 240v into split phase L1,L2 and neutral. Edit: So I called Signature Solar and inquired about my Growatt 5000 ES, they told me it is not internally bonded. I also downloaded the manual for the Pro/Tran2 306C and on page 11 it states "The Protran2 does not switch the neutral wire. As such, it is intended to be used with a generator that has a floating neutral (ground and neutral not bonded) configuration" Which is what the Growatt is, essentially it operates as a gas generator as far a a floating neutral. The Pro/Tran2 should be able to run off the Growatt with L1, L2 and a neutral, but, I need to figure out how to ground it in case of a short circuit without creating another bond in my system. If I was to provide a ground, that I do not have coming from my inverter, but provide it from my panel box, would that create a double bond?
I'm not sure. The ES5000 was intended for use in Europe, and has a different wiring scheme than the US. What is labeled as N is seems to be what we would call Line 2.
I know some TH-camrs have set these up with an autotransformer, but I don't have any experience in that.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC Growatt has now come out with their own transformer specifically for this issue. You run the supply from the inverter into the transformer and you then have L1, L2 and a floating neutral coming out. The more I think about it, I believe I can ground the transfer switch box from my sub panel box. The transfer switch already has a ground and neutral from my panel box for the 6 circuits when in line or grid mode.
@@azycray4801 If the only GN bond is back at the panel it SHOULD be ok, but I've not personally worked with these transformers. Of course, Double check voltages on everything with a meter...
Honda EU2000i Just two hots output NO Neutral. Both Hots 60V can this work with this transfer switch?
Is this a European or US model?
Both Honda and AIMS inverter US Models 60 Hertz AC @@ReelClearMediaLLC
Does it trip your breaker on your breaker box panel? When you switch to generator and need to reset it going back to LINE?
No, I've never had it trip the grid breaker. When switching between grid and solar, I always turn off the air conditioner first, as the compressor in an ac unit needs time to reset pressure.
Does your Solar inverter have an AC input?. I want to setup my inverter with an AC input from the panel then connect the inverter to a transfer switch back to the same panel. I will have battery and solar connected also. basically when no solar and battery is low, then inverter will switch to grid power to feed the transfer switch. Treating the transfer switch like a sub panel. Is that possible. ?
I normally don't have AC in on my inverter.
I have an 8awg extension cord attached to the AC in, just to emergency charge my batteries at low amps for the grid. Have only plugged it in and used AC charging a few times in the last few years.
Normally, I manually switch individual circuits between solar and grid at the transfer switch.
You could do what you are suggesting, but make sure you use a big enough cable (8awg or bigger) from the panel to the inverter, and from the inverter back to the transfer switch.
Also, make sure you don't have a ground-to-neutral bond at the inverter. You only want one bond in your entire system, and that is already in your main panel.
So do you have all your switches in the protran set to gen. And you let your grow watt switch between solar ,battery's and the grid at this point
No, I don't use the growatt's internal transfer switch to run loads. There's nothing wrong with doing it that way, I just use mine differently.
The Growatt doesn't normally have a grid input. It has a heavy-duty 10 foot extension cord attached to the AC input. This cord is not normally connected to anything. In an unusual situation... such as several days with little sun, I can plug it into the wall or a generator, and use this only to charge batteries. I might have used it twice in three years.
The ProTran is connected to the output of the Growatt, and is used to pick what I'm powering with solar. If I'm charging the car, I might not have any other circuits on solar. During a power outage, I would have all of the ProTran switches on gen(solar).
Because of the way you wired this up (only one hot line instead of 2) does this mean it's only getting 120v? And you cannot run circuits A+B together as a 40amp circuit? For example if you wanted to run a dryer on this, would it be impossible, unless you hooked the transfer switch up to both hot lines?
Correct. All of the circuits are 120v and limited to the power output (3000w) of the 120v growatt inverter.
If I added another inverter or switched to a split-phase inverter, I could also use 240v breakers. This wasn't needed for my purposes... lights, refrigerators, 120v ac, computers, and electronics during a blackout.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC awesome, thanks for clearing that up. I'm considering getting an inverter around 6kw that can do split phase output at 240v, I'm looking to run my dryer potentially which is rated at 5600w. Would I need to get a stronger inverter more in the realm of 8k or higher? Or would a 6k or 6.5k work in this respect?
@@chrisernoii8441 You'd have to measure the startup surge with a clamp-on amp meter that can measure the input rush. I know EG4 shows their split phase running a dryer in one of their demo videos
@@ReelClearMediaLLC interesting, thank you!
Question, after everything being connected and switched to line everything works but I have a ghost voltage of 5vs but goes away when on generator which is fine but the problem is I’m afraid to have any of the circuits off or on line bc it has 5vs going back to my generator. Do you have any input on this?
Not sure.
How would you back feed the generator if you’re on line? That is the point of the transfer switch, to be able not to back feed the utility.
That’s correct and having a voltage on the generator input for the transfer switch is kinda confusing I believe it’s ghost voltage but not sure if it can mess up my solar generator or not
Mixing the gen neutral with utility neutral doesn't seem right. Can you explain why you are ok with that?
I know it seems odd, but that's how the Pro-Tran is wired for a standard gas generator. I'm using my growatt as a generator.
As always, if you're uncomfortable with the wiring, have an electrician do the job.
Very good question....you can do that if your Genset is not bonded ...then by doing so ...now it is bonded at the main panel. There many Chinese inverters that will be destroyed if you connect the ground with the neutral as shown in this video. In other words...the neutral of the inverter must be transfer as well....hence the transfer switch from this video will not work for this type of inverters.
I'm getting ready to install a very similar setup. I've heard about concerns with creating a ground loop when connecting ground and neutral. I've seen instances of folks discussing "floating" the neutrals. Do you have any insight on that?
You don't want to "float" the neutral. There should only be one ground and only one ground-to-neutral bond in the entire system.
The breaker panel shown in this video is a sub panel, and not bonded. I connect the wire from the inverter ground to the panel ground, and from the inverter neutral to the neutral. They are NOT bonded in this panel, because my system is bonded and grounded at the main panel outside. That main panel was not shown in this video.
If you are using circuits in your household existing panel, there should already be a ground and a ground-to-neutral bond. you don't want to add another ground or bond, that causes a ground loop.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC OK, thank you for the response. That was my thinking but I don’t come from an electrical background so kind of learning as I go. Your use is essentially the exact same as what I am doing. One small difference is that I have a grid-tied solar system as well, but I am wiring my off grid system up completely independent of the grid tie and running to a transfer switch that I back up some circuits from my main panel within, just as you have shown. My grid tie system is on a completely different circuit, and will not receive signal from the off grid generator or the backed up loads in the event of a power outage, but all are grounded and Bonded to the main.
@@brianmills4891 You may want an electrician or a friend with electrical experience to double check. Make sure the grid tied system can't backfeed to the grid on a power outage. Again, only have one ground, and one ground to neutral bond in the whole system.
Do not float your neutral on your generator.
I'm running the 10 circuit with a Bluetti ac300.... Any idea about the isolated neutral scenario here?
No, sorry I don't own a Bluetti... look like great units though
Hello there, I want to do the same connection it look pretty easy, but Im worried about the neutral bonding I have a Growatt 3kW Stackable Off-Grid Inverter | SPF 3000TL LVM-ES. Can you recommend me how to correctly connect to the transfer switch
the ES is different, 230v European style. I wouldn't use that model with this transfer switch.
Also, some ES models are bonded, and some aren't.
Are you saying that the 230 cannot be used this way even if you know it's not bonded (Screw removed) internally? Thanks in advance! I plan on using 2 growatt spf5000es/us in parallel with auto transformer btw.
@@ReelClearMediaLLC
@@mikenegron6162 Personally, I would NOT try to connect this back into existing house circuits with a relay switch, even with an auto-transformer.
It might be possible using a transfer switch that switches hot and neutral, but even then there are too many potential problems.
There are people using this in off-grid situations. You could run new breaker panels, just for these circuits.I have a 5000ES that i plan on using for electric vehicle charging. that circuit is 240v and completely seperate and isolated from the grid circuits. The only thing shared is the ground.
People I trust like Will Prouse, and Ian at Watts247.com have put out videos warning people about the trying to use the ES in North America.Please be careful.
Thanks for the response! Not sure if it matters but my ES/US was purchased from Signature Solar. My understanding is that these were shipped Ground / Bond screw removed. In either case we attempted to do it (before reading your reply here) and it did not work. We got 120v to the transfer switch...on line it worked fine but once switched to Gen nothing would happen, meaning power would not pass through or rather it would not power the loads. Think I'm going to just sell these and go with something else that will work in this way. @@ReelClearMediaLLC
@@mikenegron6162 Are you using an auto transformer to give you 120v?
Since utility power and Growatt are
Doesn’t that Growatt off grid have a built in transfer switch? Or is there another purpose behind your setup.
Yes, the whole Growatt can act as a transfer switch. You would use a breaker panel/load center after the growatt, and all of those circuits could be powered by solar or the grid feeding the Growatt. This could be controlled by setting 1.
I wanted to use the existing household breaker panel during power outages.
My setup allows me to use the growatt 24/7 for my computers and office, and by using the transfer switch, run circuits in the house during a power outage.
Since utility power and Growatt power are flowing through the panel with different phases. How are neutral lines (utility vs. inverter) power end up going?
I share the ground and neutral with the grid-powered breaker panel in my setup. Neutral and ground don't have a "phase". I haven't had any issues with wiring this way. In the case of the transfer switch, it's the same as using a backup generator.
Great video. I got the 10 circuit version and hooked it up to a 10 kW inverter with a 25 kWh rack of batteries, it's great for power outages! I should have done this years ago.
Awesome! I like your TH-cam handle!
Sounds like you got a new mic 😊
Similar question to my prior Honda EU200i question -- AIMS Inverter just has two AC hot outputs NO Neutral -
AIMS Power PWRI150048S 48V Pure Sine Inverter, 1500W Continuous Power, 3000W Surge Power, 48V DC Input, Pure Sine Wave, Power source 48v golf cart. This inverter could be looked at like your solar input. Just 2 hots out, both 60 vac. Would this also work with this transfer switch thru the main house panel??
AIMS says - That inverter will actually have voltage on both the hot and the neutral and should not be grounded to either leg
is this it? www.amazon.com/AIMS-Power-1500-watt-Inverter/dp/B004AAGP1O
Yes - Works great as emergency backup via extension cord to Oxygen Concentrator maybe ~300 watts.@@ReelClearMediaLLC
I’m building a barn and will like to power it with a solar generator and a transfer switch to the circuits. Can I eliminate the panel box and just use the transfer switch as my panel if so would the transfer switch have to hav a earth ground ?
No, the transfer switch is made to connect to a breaker panel.
If you're going to power the barn with just solar and no grid, you could just hook your inverter to a regular breaker box and put in a ground rod.
Thanks for your reply. I would like to have the generator portable how can I just plug into the panel box without the transfer switch?
@@ronwood3214 If you aren't going to ever hook up to the grid, just use a high amperage cable and plug/outlet between the generator and your panel, like RVs do. Make sure to add a grounding rod, and only have one bonding point.
Excellent thank you