Ima motor cycle tech so I usually think dc so the switches on (ground ) was odd to me but it’s ac so it goes back and forth no real ground . Yamaha puts switches on ground! But he helped make it very easy doing his reverse terminal theory. Very rudimentary for beginners
Thank you so much for giving knowledge. May I know how I can reach out to you some questions with pictures of electric heat pack that I confused. Old Heat pack has 15 kw I replaced with 10 kw heat pack.old Heat pack 240 v 2 wire supply at heat pack breaker for 15 kw heat kit. At main breaker there is only 60 amp breaker. I am trying to understand how it work. I don’t see any wiring diagram. I just want to understand and study. One limit switch is wire in series with 24 v at contactor . Please let me know if you know any sources that explain how it work. Thank you
Sounds like the 15 kW didn't work good because a 10kW needs a 60 amp breaker, 15kW would need a 90 amp. The new heat pack should fit well with the power supply you described. If you would like to email me at jenningsj@hotmail.com that would be ok but I think you have it under control by the way you just described it! I'll take my email down in a few days just so it isn't out there forever. Have a good New Year.
Question: junction going into a load, it keeps going as if the load is not there....but it also flows into the load in addition to continuing along the path, right? In other words, the power flows to every touch point along the way, and keeps going?
Yes, you are correct. It powers the load and keeps going to the next one. I have seen some that think that the load (like the primary of the transformer for instance) is power for the blower motor. My point is loads don't power another load. Only power does! But you have to know the flow from the power source.
I've watched your sequence of events vid from 2 yrs ago. I have American Standard Freedom 80. When I call for heat, inducer motor turns on, then 3 seconds later the main blower turns on. No igniter, no gas, no flame proof. Blower stays on until I manually power unit off. Suggestions?
If the inducer is coming on and then nothing else seems to happen I would say it is likely something with the pressure switch not closing. Maybe another safety like a roll out switch or high limit?? Not exactly familiar with that particular model. Look for an error code LED that may blink/flash. BUT...if it is a pressure switch that isn't closing then you have to find out why. You could have a serious issue with a hole in the heat exchanger and that is not particularly good. I doubt it would be a bad pressure switch only. Same for a roll out issue, it likely isn't the switch that is bad. It is just doing its job.
Another great job, thank you for the knowledge.
That was good stuff. Thank you
Once again, excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Ima motor cycle tech so I usually think dc so the switches on (ground ) was odd to me but it’s ac so it goes back and forth no real ground . Yamaha puts switches on ground! But he helped make it very easy doing his reverse terminal theory. Very rudimentary for beginners
Thanks John for more details diagram of the video and happy new year new year
Happy New Year to you as well!
Great job John good to see you back always enjoy your videos marry Christmas to you and your family thanks for the video
Thank you
Thank you so much for giving knowledge. May I know how I can reach out to you some questions with pictures of electric heat pack that I confused. Old Heat pack has 15 kw I replaced with 10 kw heat pack.old Heat pack 240 v 2 wire supply at heat pack breaker for 15 kw heat kit. At main breaker there is only 60 amp breaker. I am trying to understand how it work. I don’t see any wiring diagram. I just want to understand and study. One limit switch is wire in series with 24 v at contactor . Please let me know if you know any sources that explain how it work. Thank you
Sounds like the 15 kW didn't work good because a 10kW needs a 60 amp breaker, 15kW would need a 90 amp. The new heat pack should fit well with the power supply you described. If you would like to email me at jenningsj@hotmail.com that would be ok but I think you have it under control by the way you just described it! I'll take my email down in a few days just so it isn't out there forever. Have a good New Year.
Question: junction going into a load, it keeps going as if the load is not there....but it also flows into the load in addition to continuing along the path, right? In other words, the power flows to every touch point along the way, and keeps going?
Yes, you are correct. It powers the load and keeps going to the next one. I have seen some that think that the load (like the primary of the transformer for instance) is power for the blower motor. My point is loads don't power another load. Only power does! But you have to know the flow from the power source.
I've watched your sequence of events vid from 2 yrs ago. I have American Standard Freedom 80. When I call for heat, inducer motor turns on, then 3 seconds later the main blower turns on. No igniter, no gas, no flame proof. Blower stays on until I manually power unit off. Suggestions?
If the inducer is coming on and then nothing else seems to happen I would say it is likely something with the pressure switch not closing. Maybe another safety like a roll out switch or high limit?? Not exactly familiar with that particular model. Look for an error code LED that may blink/flash. BUT...if it is a pressure switch that isn't closing then you have to find out why. You could have a serious issue with a hole in the heat exchanger and that is not particularly good. I doubt it would be a bad pressure switch only. Same for a roll out issue, it likely isn't the switch that is bad. It is just doing its job.