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I don't consider this thing a building it's more like a f****** tent. I can't stand that style of building so they call it. It's more like a place to store your boat. Totally worthless in the Northeast.

Love it. Wonder how much you'll need to pay for winter/cooling though. An idea: build an 8 foot planter box around the entire thing (make a tunnel for entry). This is my concept (outlined on my channel) to use earth insulation to create a stable temp year around.

Cannot see the point in this video if the only reasons are no more then cosmetically & a few very minor problems,

Where are you getting these at these prices! Everything I find is still 10 -20k

just buy a swiss cnc... not a crafting box

stole it.

I like it

Both clean as,a good sign! Keep at least one,Great how you show controls features.Japanese quality!

Why are the machines sitting in the dirt?

This for production work or flipping? Either way it produces $.

This Fadal brings back memories, sold well here in Australia.Like the steps you walk thru & very well expained man! Also you got a bargain, well checked out.

Seems like it’s worth a shot, I’ll be interested in seeing how it works out for the long run. Hope it goes well for you.

Awesome

I wouldn’t park my $400 Suburban in that thing, let alone put expensive CNC equipment in it. I get wanting to save money. I’m currently planning a shop of my own, but this isn’t the way…

Power dropped for free including a pole install???!?!?!? How the hell you manage that deal? That is bread and butter money for power companies and unheard of as far as i know.

Man that things is 'uuuuuge! Look how small the house next to it looks at 5:50 lmao

For tool change try this G91 G28 Z0. M19 T6 M6

CD,10 changes the baud rate.

Clean that lead screw on the front before you do any threading. When you thread your clamping a piece called the half nut around that lead screw and it will grind in any swarf/rust/corrosion into the nut and the lead screw itself. Plastic brushes then Soft brass wire brushes scotcbrite etc to clean it till it perfect. That is what determines if your threads are accurate. Same with all the ways and you could replace the felt way wipers that are under little caps/covers (they are there to brush of swarf). I bet that’ll clean up to even look like a really nice machine. I think it’s Japanese. They make killer lathes. It’s starting kinda slow, even though you switched the transformer to 230 volts I’m thinking you still need to open the motor and change the leads out to 230. There will be a cover plate where the three phases go into a box sorta part on the motor itself. Once you get inside it, you see a handful of wires, like 7 or 9 (not just three). There are usually numbered and will be tied together in a combination that results in your 3 phases. It’ll have a sticker or tag somewhere that shows which get tied together for low (230) or high 460 voltage. Something like 369, 258, 147 will be what wires tie together for you 3 phases if you want it low and if high it’ll be a totally different combination of wires to tie together for each phase! They might just twist together and be black taped or there might be a terminal block u see the cap, I’ve seen it both ways.

This was pretty painful to watch. Pull everything apart on the tailstock and clean and re-assemble and re-oil. Slide the tailstock carefully towards the end of the bed so you can get a look underneath. A lot of the Japanese lathes had spring loaded wheels under the tailstock. These are usually gummed up and jambed on a machine of that vintage. Note that not all of them had these, however the tailstock is almost identical to an Okuma LS and they did have them.

pull that tailstock apart again , clean everything and then lubricate the entire moving assembly . most of the time there are oil holes in the tailstock body so that you can routinely put oil through the holes to keep everything lubricated . use a good turbine oil which is low viscosity . clean your ways very well and apply the same oil to the ways . Squirt some oil at one end of the bed and then , just spread it by running your fingers down the ways adding oil as you need it . Wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth or a paper towel. That sure looks like a nice machine . If you take care of it , it will take care of you !! Best wishes !! there are some good older books on the care and operation of an engine lathe still available , so pick one up and enjoy !

Will it Run ,.......no it has feet but no legs 😁😁

absolutely great utility

Google "quill lock," and look at the images. It is 2 pieces of round brass bar, 1 has a through hole, the other has female threads. The handle bolt passes through the on hole, and threads into the other. When you tighten the handle the 2 brass bars are drawn towards each other. There is an arc milled in the brass that matches the ram, and simply jams it to lock it in place. You can clock the handle itself by removing the little screw that holds it on and moving it to a different position, yours looks to be about 90 degrees out of clock - it should be vertical (ish) when locked). Also, rust particles eat through cast iron with ease, please clean it up and get some way oil (Vactra is best). Even casual motion will damage the ways.

Thank you for sharing you are the best my friend

Great deal, you won.

Thank you for sharing your awesome home

Take that thread shaft out and clean and re lube it. But probably just got jammed up. Be careful hitting things with a hammer like that though. Those hand wheels are easy to break.

Yasnac MX3. Piece of cake. Turn it to Edit , hit the IN button and match the baud rate usually 9600 no parity, 8 data bits and 1 parity stop bit. Just load it in memory through the RS232. Don't drip feed it. On the DB25 or DB9 connector, Pins 2&3 are trans/receive and 7 is common. pin 1 to ground. swap pins 2&3 on one end to handshake. Done.

You never gave a $ amount of what you paid

Re-upload? Merry Christmas! Make sure you're drilling on center and be careful because those jacob chucks slip bits daily. Make sure not to accidently eject your arbor into the workpiece aswell lol.

Really good for a starter building for a vehicle garage. A person always put metal on the sides and a medal roof as time went on. But a little at a time and turn it into a metal building.

i looks as though somone just spun it back to far. it is amazing how hard it jams when they spin it into the back stop

How survival do you figure it is in a strong storm? Do you think it will hold up to a tornado, or, will you be picking up the pieces in Nebraska or Kansas?

Looks great nice job..

Nice. Take the chuck apart and clean it. Make a holder for the chuck key. Always return the chuck key to the holder. Just to be paranoid, put a red ribbon on the chuck handle.

man, I remember running those machines when they were new.

I have 2 of these machines in My tool and die shop. Great machines for the value and extremely reliable. Tool changes are too slow to go after high volume work at good rates. I also have the same usb interface. You especially see the time lag on rigid tapping and the machine takes a few seconds just to gather its thoughts before entering the hole. allso when My haas backs out of the threaded hole its super fast whereas the fadal goes at the same feed rate out. This is just technologies of different times. Great purchase though. And for new start up shops with limited funds, You can easily get a nice machine like this for 5-10k

Ya get what you pay for!

That would make an awesome greenhouse

we had a fadal with sinumerik very good machine

Where did u come across a deal that good ,,seems like I'm always a day late,,nice lathe,,

I always run program 2.000" above part to teach and test. Then you SEE it. Add +2.000 to g54 z. And run it. Finger on feed hold.

The first way we ever setup tools on Matsuuras was off top of part. The paper method. We left the G54 Z at Zero. Used the TLM to get Z negative number. If you use the blue dial block or a 123 block off top of part, need to add -2.000 to each tool or -2.000 on G54 Z. I taught CNC machining at school for 11 years. Everything is based of machine coordinates. Universal is just for personal use.. Program coor are related to active program etc.

Great to see possibilities of 1980-90 cnc machines I used to work at Matsuura dealer/importer in 1984. They were the caddilac CNC at the time. I worked with Japanese techs that came from the factory. Then I was lead setup/programmer at defense contractor and we had 10 Matsuura's. I remember we had a 3d tungsten Part we ran on MV760 because the Kitamura was tied up. . and we drip fed from 386 computer on a cart. 1996. It struggled and feed ran very slow. I turned the feed rate down to 30%, still same speed. Then 20% it finally slowed down. It couldn't read the code fast enough. We didn't know much about that at a time about feed rates and 3d stuff. We always just did 2.5 axis work. No adaptive or dynamic code back then.

Are you kidding me 😅

I kept waiting at the end when you were supposed to tell us what that machine costs new with upgrades. Don't hold out on us lol.

Auction price not available to everyone

what the hell ??? for $1025 only?? Normally I would say that would go for about $10 to $15,000! Definitely good haul of machine. FADALS are the best in my opinion. Good balance of bang to buck, simple, easy MDI interface, but menu assist if needed. Out of a shop of 6 CNC's 3 of them are FADAL's, and as far as break down, maintenance, and overall problems the fadals always kept chugging along. The Mori's on the other hand had at least 1 major problem about every 3 months, constantly had issues, and came with high learning curves. Those in the shop that ran the CNC's never did like the Mori's.