What a great deal man.. with all the accessories and the manual ! Wow.. 🤯 That’s a 5,000-7,000 machine all day long. Glad someone is cashing in on some breaks cuz it sure isn’t me.. 😊
Howdy! i think some of the electric motors are running backwards on this lathe. ensure the oil pump in the head-stock is pumping oil, this is the most important thing when setting them up again Also, ensure the motor wiring is correct to run on the different voltages, take the electrical wire cover off the motors, check the coolant pump and the main motor. if your lucky they should have the schematic under the lid. If any motor is running backwards, swap any two of the three hot wires on the motor wherever convenient
What gave you the hint that a motor is running backwards? Everything I saw him do to it works as it should. When he first tried switching the feed reverse on the headstock front panel I’m betting he might have only went halfway and hit neutral. Next time it suddenly worked as it should (in other words that headstock is just gears being put into mesh or not so if he moved that lever correctly it would have worked the first time). Yeah, just curious what makes you think there’s a motor running backwards, I’m wiring some machines up myself so trying to figure out what to look for beyond when it obvious that you throw the switch for forward and it goes backward.
@@robertmason8341 For this manual lathe down on the main handle for turning the spindle on should turn in the direction this lathe will cut. best/most important way to tell is if the oil pump is pumping oil (though you need to make sure it isnt just air locked) also need to be careful because not all the motors will be incorrect. If the main spindles are backwards i swap one of the main wires feeding the machine, if its a coolant pump or conveyor thats backwards and the spindle is correct, swap the wires in the motor
You changed your control transformer primary from series to parallel, but your motor is still wired for 480volts. You can tell by how slow it starts. It won't hurt anything, but you only get half the rated power out of it. Get it under load and your current overloads might start popping out. ------Doozer
Good price! On that chuck you don’t have to tighten chuck on all three positions on chuck, just one! If you have a piece of Thompson shaft that straight and at least 2ft long , put in chuck center drill end then extend shaft out and put your live center in tail stock and tighten between chuck and center. Attach an indicator to tool post and run indicator the length of shaft from chuck to tail stock and see if tail stock is centered with chuck! If not? Loosen lock nuts at bottom of tail stock and adjust till indicator zeros out! 😊 tighten jam nuts!
That was a real steal. It’s a good manufacturer. Running CNC, you already know much of what you need. It’s just a matter of getting used to the controls. But everything you know about feeds and speeds, material, proper inserts, etc., are still correct here. Same thing about running with flood or dry.
I'm a manual guy, but different classes and companies change some stuff. Long Al rods can heat and expand so as you cut you over cut. Thus, need fluid flowing on the work to keep the work and cutter cool. I have a Small 11x44 Sheldon that dad and I bought in 1952 at a Hardware store !
I just started a subscription on your channel so I’m brand new supporter and the first thing I’d like to see you do with this machine. It’s too clean it up top to bottom and lubricate it and get the pump running.
You will have to rewire the motors involved to low voltage. If they are 9 lead this is not and issue . Check for direction too. Also change the heaters. lastly make sure your generated phase from the converter is not on the 2 leads of your control voltage transformer. If it is, it will chatter with the voltage reversals that come from the phase converter
That's a great score - Howa Sangyo is a Japanese machine - and the Japanese make the best manual lathes on earth these days outside of the Weilers of the world...
usually on lathes it's called X and Z - just like on a mill, moving towards or away from the spindle is Z, and the spindle rotates around Z (which is customarily called the 'C' axis if it's controllable in position - A rotates around X, B rotates around Y, and C rotates around Z)
@@prestigemanufacturingky with the current one you will need a stack of shims of various thicknesses for each tool to get set to centerheight, which is fine if you are going to be using only a couple. With the quick change you just set the height for each one by threading it to the correct height. when you are gonna be doing a bunch of different operations it is way quicker to move between them. Regardless I'd get a "Pro Lathe Gage" from EDGE Technology, it makes setting the height way easier
Also with the quick change tool post you can store the tool offsets in the DRO so you can pick up your X/Z locations between tools without needing to touch off everytime
with the current one you will need a stack of shims of various thicknesses for each tool to get set to cutter height, which is fine if you are going to be using only a couple and leaving them in there. With the quick change you just set the height for each one by threading it to the correct height. If you are doing multiple operations it makes it way faster to swap between facing/chamfering/boring/threading. Get a Pro Lathe Gage made by EDGE technology, it makes setting the heights super easy.
I’d like to see you sort out that phase converter because the amount of noise coming out of it would drive me nuts. An expensive bet that paid off and I am extremely happy for you. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
If you can CAD then you can design anything you you want if you can make blueprints of what the piece you want I prefer manual Machining you get the satisfaction of following a blueprint and making it exactly what it's supposed to be on a CNC lathe or any other push a button and make it go there's a whole lot of Pride and satisfaction in manual Machining because you're actually making the part yourself and all the tolerances and all the measuring and all of that when you have a complete part in your hand you can say I did that for me it's very satisfying to take something from nothing and make it into something
Yo nice find, would be cool to see u turn between centers just don't forget to align the tailstock. Small peice of advice, on basically every single old manual machine I've ran you gotta jiggle all the levers to make sure they are properly seated in gear or nothing is gonna work right. Quick change tool posts are by far superior and most allow you to very easily adjust the tool height without having to use shims. Also that lil dial you pointed out for threading will spin and the numbers correspond with what thread you are trying to cut correlate with the speed/feed. There's usually a chart on the headstock that will tell you how to set everything up and what # to engage the feed on when threading.
I agree. Also, check the manual for when you’re allowed to move the levers. Some may only be moved when the spindle is turning and others only when the spindle isn’t turning.
Moat likely phases are in the worms sequence. Just swap 2 phases over. Don't forget to change the motor winding configuration from star (460V) to delta (220V ish)
That's a hell of a good lathe for the $1250 you got in it. I looked for one like that for years but everything was either rusted up trash or three times more expensive in a similar state as yours. In the end I found a Nova Tools 12x36 in NYC and had it trucked down here to Conroe TX for the cost of fuel on my buddies flatbed. Heck of a good find you got. Definitely get a DRO if you plan to make anything accurately. Unless you seriously think you're going to use it to make things, don't bother with getting the quick change, The standard tool holder can be loaded with 2-4 different tools and is easily spun and reinexed. I would take a day to really clean it up, add oil to all the recommended spots and possibly change the main gear housing oil as you have no record of when it was added of changed last. Another thing is put a dial indicator on a piece of stock and see how far out of true it might be, also do the same process to the outside of the chuck itself. This will give you an indicator on the current state of the bearings.
Howdy neighbor! I'm in Porter, I would think Conroe would be full of old quality lathes but then there is at least one company buying up all the cheap manual tools and exporting them to India.
JJust a basic rule of electricians. If you have to do something in live distribution box, one hand is in back pocket of your jeans. Especially during measurements.
I was thinking the same, when he was poking around with just the equipment breaker off. If he keeps this up, someone will find him, rolled up, in a corner one day. One co-worker, had a one of 3 main feeds to the mine shut down. He didn't check for live power, the cables where miss labeled on the level he was working on. When he went in to pull the first fuse, the resulting poke blew a hole in the back of one of his calves. Needless to say, he had a bad day, and we got a crap ton of new testing/safety gear, the next supply flight. He lived, but a wiser electrician, after that. Best wishes from the far North.
Also your foot pedal after you turn the machine off immediately step on the foot pedal and see what happens. It should activate turbo power booster mode but it only works immediately after pulling the forward reverse lever to the middle. Don't use the foot pedal and try to activate turbo boos mode when the machine is spinning though. Only when waiting on the spin to stop
The old adage is, "Fools rush in where Angels fear to tread". 415 volts will kill you, so be careful playing live control boxes. Has the Lathe a treadle brake, if so the switch can be a nuisance if is old. I spent years on centre lathes, still have one converted to 240 volt single phase. The feed change lever is usually in line with the leadscrew, on the lower headstock. The slideways need oiling and adjusting where worn. A good buy, well done.
That transformer is for control voltage only. A few things need verified first before applying power or attempting startup. If presently set up for 480v, check all motors if dual voltage and rewire for 240v if possible. Check motor overloads and wire size are appropriate for lower voltage and higher current. Then bump start each motor for rotation checks. All in an effort to keep the magic smoke from escaping and attacking your wallet!🤯
Nice. Take the chuck apart and clean it. Make a holder for the chuck key. Always return the chuck key to the holder. Just to be paranoid, put a red ribbon on the chuck handle.
That's a bit large for what I do, (instrument work) but for automotive and larger work you really lucked out! Probably a company upgraded to CNC and had to dump this to get it out of the way. No big deal because they write it off in their taxes!
If that's a fluorescent tube light above the machine, I seem to remember being told it's a bad idea cos if the spindle speed rotation matches the frequency of light flicker, it can give the impression that the chuck is stationary. Perhaps someone else can confirm that? Also, is it going to be mounted on a flat foundation?
Nice find! That's a bad boy. It'll make some chips for sure. Get those ways oiled up and check the head oil. Now you get to buy all that tooling for the manual lathe.
Clean that lead screw on the front before you do any threading. When you thread your clamping a piece called the half nut around that lead screw and it will grind in any swarf/rust/corrosion into the nut and the lead screw itself. Plastic brushes then Soft brass wire brushes scotcbrite etc to clean it till it perfect. That is what determines if your threads are accurate. Same with all the ways and you could replace the felt way wipers that are under little caps/covers (they are there to brush of swarf). I bet that’ll clean up to even look like a really nice machine. I think it’s Japanese. They make killer lathes. It’s starting kinda slow, even though you switched the transformer to 230 volts I’m thinking you still need to open the motor and change the leads out to 230. There will be a cover plate where the three phases go into a box sorta part on the motor itself. Once you get inside it, you see a handful of wires, like 7 or 9 (not just three). There are usually numbered and will be tied together in a combination that results in your 3 phases. It’ll have a sticker or tag somewhere that shows which get tied together for low (230) or high 460 voltage. Something like 369, 258, 147 will be what wires tie together for you 3 phases if you want it low and if high it’ll be a totally different combination of wires to tie together for each phase! They might just twist together and be black taped or there might be a terminal block u see the cap, I’ve seen it both ways.
Your machine is running in reverse, change two of the three phases that feed the machine. That will fix it. The transformer you rewired supplies voltage to the light, contactors, and possible other auxiliaries. It does not supply power to the spindle motor. That motor needs to be rewired, simple job, there is probably a wiring diagram on the motor tag. If the coolant pump is 3 phase it also needs to be rewired, also check if it is spining the right way. If not, change 2 of the 3 phases around. I would also change the oil on the headstock and the apron. A good clean over would not hurt it either. A good idea is to clean the way wipes, as they can collect chips and degrade the ways. If possible make or buy new ones. If it where my machine I would open the head stock and check if there is an oil filter or screen before the oil pump, generaly there is, and then clean or relace. Also while you are in there, check for anything that is not suppost to be in there, or anyting that is broken or missing. I would do the same with the apron. It is also important to clean the lead screw and keep it clean, to prevent excessive wear on the half-nut. Also keep your ways clean and lubed.
Looking at diagram 8-4 in the manual and what you changed on the transformer makes me think you only changed the 110 volt control circuit to run on 220. I think there are two other jumper setups on that diagram and the next page to change the motors themselves to 220 from 440. And yes, check phasing on the motors.
I read through the manual and it says everything is pre-wired for 240. So pretty much when I switched the jumpers for 240 it bypassed the transformer. The transformer only drops down 480 to 240.
Nice score:) I'm in Alaska we never have good deals on heavy iron:( Dont buy a cheap china quick change tool post and holders find a good used Aloris. Using cheap china tool holders is like putting semi tires on a Powerwheels car. It will may work, but not well. #1 good tool holder #2 Kenametal carbide tools#3 a "good" live center #4 PLEASE OIL THAT WAYS!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!! sorry my OCD kicked in :) P.s dont trust amzons lathe tooling Buy once cry once applies more to lathes than any tool I have i the shop. Bison,Kenametal,Aloris Abom79 is the guy to watch for tooling if he uses it than its good. I'm super jelly of the lathe score also the the fact you can have a tent shop and the weather doesn't wreck it in the winter.
would have been nice to use a lathe to build out the CV slip hub on the CAT Ford driveshaft, but the other guy'd be pissed seeing something being jig fitted and welded using the chuck as a line up holder. cutting only? to cheap to buy a pack of rod bearings so stamps sheet off the shear and cuts it down... wraps square wire around a bar to piston ring slinky... etc.
I can’t believe you got that for just 550.. for once I’d like to be that guy.. lol hell a deal man. That’s a good capable machine my man. And that “gauge” you are referring to is called a trav-a-dial and is a very handy and accurate indicator of how far the apron has travelled. Think of it as an “old school DRO” But that is a perfect size machine to have too. Just big enough to tackle some real projects.
I wasn't familiar with this MFG so I expected Chinese for that price but then the manual seems too good for that. That seems like a heck of a deal for a large Japanese lathe.
I'm by no means a expert, but heres some of what I've been taught on the job - 3 jaw chucks only need to be used with the keyway with the 0 marked on it, but it's also how you identify how to put the chuck back on and off the spindle. 4 jaw chucks will allow you to take a dial indiactor on your work piece and independently adjust each jaw for runout. You need to see if your tailstock is aligned on 0 for any type of accurate drilling or turning between centers. Some of these old machines take a minute to get up in high gear, but be warned shit starts breaking at high speeds. Get a bandsaw for your round stock. Get a rubber mallet and lightly bang on whatever you chucked up and tighten it again - the chuck jaws might make a more consistent hold on your part if your flipping it around like how you turned down that steel. If you want to make sure your tool is on center - throw a drill bit in the chuck and line the edge of your insert to the center of the bit to get a close enough for most things height.
Time to take those gloves off brother. You’re a manual guy now. And as far as the RPMs go, I run steel at 6-800 everyday. Whatever gives me the best finish in my line of work
You can't change over a lathe from 440v to 220v by only changing the single phase control transformer taps. the spindle motor and any other motors powered from the lathe control have to be rewired for 220v operation. Get another tattoo and read the manual.
Actually, I did read the manual man and that’s exactly how you doing it on that lathe and I’m not sure what my tattoos have to do with anything other than you being a hater 🤷🏻♂️
It's not a CNC , even after years of running a manual anything, and even after decades on just manual machines, you will STILL find better ways to do a job with one. My advice, watch the old manual Machinists and copy there set ups , speeds & feeds. Not easy but there are things you can do with a manual machine a CNC can't touch. The set ups are the key and it will take decades to learn most of them. There is one thing not in the manual, the ways & lead screws inside the compound & cross feed both must be keep extra clean and must be re lubed very often (the more the better). Also, the ways must be cleaned with solvent, wiped spotless and totally re lubed with way oil (yes, it's different then auto oil.) everyday of use. The lead screw should be cleaned & lubed everyday of use as well. The compound screw MUST BE TAKEN APART, & REMOVED and cleaned in solvent & re lubed about every month or so. (I use way oil for first coat, then molly wheel bearing grease on both the cross feed & compound screws. Remember this is a MANUAL machine, it only has 1 set of gibbs that must be totally cleaned & re lubed & adjusted correctly to hold tolerances, run that lathe dry like it is, you will destroy the gibb bar & the ways very quick. CNCs have 2 sometimes 3 sets of gibb bars so it's not that hard on them with a CNC, but on any manual machine, upkeep on all the lead screws & gibbs & ways is a top priority to maintain. So yes, I do see a full 8 hour day or more of cleaning & lube work to be done on that machine before you start using it if you want to keep it in good shape. It's part of the job on a Manual machine be it a Mill or a Lathe. I had a old instructor in my apprenticeship tell us something I never forgot, there is no such thing as TO CLEAN ! one chip can do tons of damage real quick on any manual machine that is not maintained correctly. I been running manuals for over 50 years now, my job? fix everything the CNCs screw up plus, strictly custom one offs or short runs. Also in my opinion, get rid of that tool post holder ----- get a set of top quality Quick Change tool post holders, Thank me later as it makes life on a lathe so much faster and easy. See link www.bing.com/images/search?q=photos%20of%20manual%20lathe%20quick%20change%20tool%20post%20holders&view=detailv2&FORM=IQFRBA&id=C96D3B26B6ACEA0CAD3ED2629CD475B4F152BF2D&selectedindex=6&&expw=474&exph=474&ccid=aaWgK61J&ck=7F8977932EF2C5D78CA554C402D9ACFD&thid=OIP.aaWgK61JiiARc9GGNivvhgAAAA&idpp=serp&idpbck=1
What a great deal man.. with all the accessories and the manual ! Wow.. 🤯
That’s a 5,000-7,000 machine all day long.
Glad someone is cashing in on some breaks cuz it sure isn’t me.. 😊
Thanks. I don’t always win, trust me 😆
Howdy! i think some of the electric motors are running backwards on this lathe.
ensure the oil pump in the head-stock is pumping oil, this is the most important thing when setting them up again
Also, ensure the motor wiring is correct to run on the different voltages, take the electrical wire cover off the motors, check the coolant pump and the main motor. if your lucky they should have the schematic under the lid.
If any motor is running backwards, swap any two of the three hot wires on the motor wherever convenient
Thanks for the info !
What gave you the hint that a motor is running backwards? Everything I saw him do to it works as it should. When he first tried switching the feed reverse on the headstock front panel I’m betting he might have only went halfway and hit neutral. Next time it suddenly worked as it should (in other words that headstock is just gears being put into mesh or not so if he moved that lever correctly it would have worked the first time).
Yeah, just curious what makes you think there’s a motor running backwards, I’m wiring some machines up myself so trying to figure out what to look for beyond when it obvious that you throw the switch for forward and it goes backward.
@@robertmason8341 For this manual lathe down on the main handle for turning the spindle on should turn in the direction this lathe will cut.
best/most important way to tell is if the oil pump is pumping oil (though you need to make sure it isnt just air locked)
also need to be careful because not all the motors will be incorrect.
If the main spindles are backwards i swap one of the main wires feeding the machine, if its a coolant pump or conveyor thats backwards and the spindle is correct, swap the wires in the motor
You changed your control transformer primary from series to parallel, but your motor is still wired for 480volts. You can tell by how slow it starts. It won't hurt anything, but you only get half the rated power out of it. Get it under load and your current overloads might start popping out. ------Doozer
Thanks. I’ll definitely check the motor!
Good price!
On that chuck you don’t have to tighten chuck on all three positions on chuck, just one! If you have a piece of Thompson shaft that straight and at least 2ft long , put in chuck center drill end then extend shaft out and put your live center in tail stock and tighten between chuck and center. Attach an indicator to tool post and run indicator the length of shaft from chuck to tail stock and see if tail stock is centered with chuck! If not? Loosen lock nuts at bottom of tail stock and adjust till indicator zeros out! 😊 tighten jam nuts!
Awesome. Thanks for the info
Win! Retired "Old School" machinist here. Started "green" in '77, retired March 2020 when covid hit
Nice! Thanks for the view!
Retired 47yr journeyman machinist here ! Retired 2nd week of Covid also! I do miss it! So I bought a laser to play with!
Nice!
Right on! Making it your own requires some work but that never hurt anyone! She’s a diamond in the rough for that price
Thanks, I appreciate it
You so lucked out getting that for about $1100.00!!! When all else fails, read the instructions! LOL I am actually quite envious of you.
Thanks I appreciate it🙏
That was a real steal. It’s a good manufacturer. Running CNC, you already know much of what you need. It’s just a matter of getting used to the controls. But everything you know about feeds and speeds, material, proper inserts, etc., are still correct here. Same thing about running with flood or dry.
Thanks 🙏
I'm a manual guy, but different classes and companies change some stuff. Long Al rods can heat and expand so as you cut you over cut. Thus, need fluid flowing on the work to keep the work and cutter cool. I have a Small 11x44 Sheldon that dad and I bought in 1952 at a Hardware store !
Thanks for the info!
I just started a subscription on your channel so I’m brand new supporter and the first thing I’d like to see you do with this machine. It’s too clean it up top to bottom and lubricate it and get the pump running.
Thanks for the sub!
You will have to rewire the motors involved to low voltage. If they are 9 lead this is not and issue . Check for direction too. Also change the heaters. lastly make sure your generated phase from the converter is not on the 2 leads of your control voltage transformer. If it is, it will chatter with the voltage reversals that come from the phase converter
Thanks
Nice lathe, definitely some great potential.
That lathe is worth alot more for sure.
Glad that you got it up and running.
Have a great day. 👍🇺🇸👍
Thanks 👍
That's a great score - Howa Sangyo is a Japanese machine - and the Japanese make the best manual lathes on earth these days outside of the Weilers of the world...
Thanks for the info
Manual lath, milling machine , drill press, sharpener and universal grinder .
🙏
DROs on the X and Y will be nice to have as well as quick change tool posts..
I’m already looking at DRO’s on eBay for it 😂
usually on lathes it's called X and Z - just like on a mill, moving towards or away from the spindle is Z, and the spindle rotates around Z (which is customarily called the 'C' axis if it's controllable in position - A rotates around X, B rotates around Y, and C rotates around Z)
quick change tool post and a DRO would make this baby perfect
What are the benefits of the quick change tool post over the one that’s on it now?
@@prestigemanufacturingky with the current one you will need a stack of shims of various thicknesses for each tool to get set to centerheight, which is fine if you are going to be using only a couple.
With the quick change you just set the height for each one by threading it to the correct height. when you are gonna be doing a bunch of different operations it is way quicker to move between them.
Regardless I'd get a "Pro Lathe Gage" from EDGE Technology, it makes setting the height way easier
Also with the quick change tool post you can store the tool offsets in the DRO so you can pick up your X/Z locations between tools without needing to touch off everytime
with the current one you will need a stack of shims of various thicknesses for each tool to get set to cutter height, which is fine if you are going to be using only a couple and leaving them in there.
With the quick change you just set the height for each one by threading it to the correct height.
If you are doing multiple operations it makes it way faster to swap between facing/chamfering/boring/threading.
Get a Pro Lathe Gage made by EDGE technology, it makes setting the heights super easy.
I’d like to see you sort out that phase converter because the amount of noise coming out of it would drive me nuts. An expensive bet that paid off and I am extremely happy for you. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
Thanks 🙏
Win. clean and inspect all componets are working.
Thank you
If you can CAD then you can design anything you you want if you can make blueprints of what the piece you want I prefer manual Machining you get the satisfaction of following a blueprint and making it exactly what it's supposed to be on a CNC lathe or any other push a button and make it go there's a whole lot of Pride and satisfaction in manual Machining because you're actually making the part yourself and all the tolerances and all the measuring and all of that when you have a complete part in your hand you can say I did that for me it's very satisfying to take something from nothing and make it into something
🙏
Yo nice find, would be cool to see u turn between centers just don't forget to align the tailstock. Small peice of advice, on basically every single old manual machine I've ran you gotta jiggle all the levers to make sure they are properly seated in gear or nothing is gonna work right. Quick change tool posts are by far superior and most allow you to very easily adjust the tool height without having to use shims. Also that lil dial you pointed out for threading will spin and the numbers correspond with what thread you are trying to cut correlate with the speed/feed. There's usually a chart on the headstock that will tell you how to set everything up and what # to engage the feed on when threading.
Thanks for the info and the view
I agree. Also, check the manual for when you’re allowed to move the levers. Some may only be moved when the spindle is turning and others only when the spindle isn’t turning.
Moat likely phases are in the worms sequence. Just swap 2 phases over. Don't forget to change the motor winding configuration from star (460V) to delta (220V ish)
Thanks
Oh and a DRO is a must
Definitely
With that chuck, you only have to tighten where it has that little circle, and quick change tool post is the way to go, more efficient.
Thanks
That's a hell of a good lathe for the $1250 you got in it. I looked for one like that for years but everything was either rusted up trash or three times more expensive in a similar state as yours. In the end I found a Nova Tools 12x36 in NYC and had it trucked down here to Conroe TX for the cost of fuel on my buddies flatbed. Heck of a good find you got. Definitely get a DRO if you plan to make anything accurately. Unless you seriously think you're going to use it to make things, don't bother with getting the quick change, The standard tool holder can be loaded with 2-4 different tools and is easily spun and reinexed. I would take a day to really clean it up, add oil to all the recommended spots and possibly change the main gear housing oil as you have no record of when it was added of changed last. Another thing is put a dial indicator on a piece of stock and see how far out of true it might be, also do the same process to the outside of the chuck itself. This will give you an indicator on the current state of the bearings.
Awesome man, thanks for the tips. I’m definitely going to change all that oil out.
Howdy neighbor! I'm in Porter, I would think Conroe would be full of old quality lathes but then there is at least one company buying up all the cheap manual tools and exporting them to India.
Good job ! Retired Old school machinist here.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
JJust a basic rule of electricians. If you have to do something in live distribution box, one hand is in back pocket of your jeans. Especially during measurements.
🔥
I was thinking the same, when he was poking around with just the equipment breaker off.
If he keeps this up, someone will find him, rolled up, in a corner one day.
One co-worker, had a one of 3 main feeds to the mine shut down. He didn't check for live power, the cables where miss labeled on the level he was working on. When he went in to pull the first fuse, the resulting poke blew a hole in the back of one of his calves.
Needless to say, he had a bad day, and we got a crap ton of new testing/safety gear, the next supply flight.
He lived, but a wiser electrician, after that.
Best wishes from the far North.
Also your foot pedal after you turn the machine off immediately step on the foot pedal and see what happens. It should activate turbo power booster mode but it only works immediately after pulling the forward reverse lever to the middle. Don't use the foot pedal and try to activate turbo boos mode when the machine is spinning though. Only when waiting on the spin to stop
👍
The old adage is, "Fools rush in where Angels fear to tread". 415 volts will kill you, so be careful playing live control boxes. Has the Lathe a treadle brake, if so the switch can be a nuisance if is old. I spent years on centre lathes, still have one converted to 240 volt single phase. The feed change lever is usually in line with the leadscrew, on the lower headstock. The slideways need oiling and adjusting where worn. A good buy, well done.
Thanks
That transformer is for control voltage only. A few things need verified first before applying power or attempting startup. If presently set up for 480v, check all motors if dual voltage and rewire for 240v if possible. Check motor overloads and wire size are appropriate for lower voltage and higher current. Then bump start each motor for rotation checks. All in an effort to keep the magic smoke from escaping and attacking your wallet!🤯
Thanks for the info 🙏
Nice. Take the chuck apart and clean it. Make a holder for the chuck key. Always return the chuck key to the holder. Just to be paranoid, put a red ribbon on the chuck handle.
Thanks for the tips!
That's a bit large for what I do, (instrument work) but for automotive and larger work you really lucked out! Probably a company upgraded to CNC and had to dump this to get it out of the way. No big deal because they write it off in their taxes!
🙏
Swap two legs of the three phase around. Your motors are running reverse. Nice lathe!
I’ll do that thanks!
If that's a fluorescent tube light above the machine, I seem to remember being told it's a bad idea cos if the spindle speed rotation matches the frequency of light flicker, it can give the impression that the chuck is stationary.
Perhaps someone else can confirm that?
Also, is it going to be mounted on a flat foundation?
I never thought about that. I’ll probably replace it with a led
Don't take my word for it, have it confirmed by other people.
Good luck with the machine, it looks like a bargain at this stage.
fantasic price for lathe size your only thing is keep well oiled and greased and run for ever
Thanks 🙏
Nice find! That's a bad boy. It'll make some chips for sure. Get those ways oiled up and check the head oil. Now you get to buy all that tooling for the manual lathe.
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A clean up and refresh video in the future?
Possibly!
Clean that lead screw on the front before you do any threading. When you thread your clamping a piece called the half nut around that lead screw and it will grind in any swarf/rust/corrosion into the nut and the lead screw itself. Plastic brushes then Soft brass wire brushes scotcbrite etc to clean it till it perfect. That is what determines if your threads are accurate. Same with all the ways and you could replace the felt way wipers that are under little caps/covers (they are there to brush of swarf). I bet that’ll clean up to even look like a really nice machine. I think it’s Japanese. They make killer lathes. It’s starting kinda slow, even though you switched the transformer to 230 volts I’m thinking you still need to open the motor and change the leads out to 230. There will be a cover plate where the three phases go into a box sorta part on the motor itself. Once you get inside it, you see a handful of wires, like 7 or 9 (not just three). There are usually numbered and will be tied together in a combination that results in your 3 phases. It’ll have a sticker or tag somewhere that shows which get tied together for low (230) or high 460 voltage. Something like 369, 258, 147 will be what wires tie together for you 3 phases if you want it low and if high it’ll be a totally different combination of wires to tie together for each phase! They might just twist together and be black taped or there might be a terminal block u see the cap,
I’ve seen it both ways.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
Your machine is running in reverse, change two of the three phases that feed the machine. That will fix it. The transformer you rewired supplies voltage to the light, contactors, and possible other auxiliaries. It does not supply power to the spindle motor. That motor needs to be rewired, simple job, there is probably a wiring diagram on the motor tag. If the coolant pump is 3 phase it also needs to be rewired, also check if it is spining the right way. If not, change 2 of the 3 phases around. I would also change the oil on the headstock and the apron. A good clean over would not hurt it either. A good idea is to clean the way wipes, as they can collect chips and degrade the ways. If possible make or buy new ones. If it where my machine I would open the head stock and check if there is an oil filter or screen before the oil pump, generaly there is, and then clean or relace. Also while you are in there, check for anything that is not suppost to be in there, or anyting that is broken or missing. I would do the same with the apron. It is also important to clean the lead screw and keep it clean, to prevent excessive wear on the half-nut. Also keep your ways clean and lubed.
Thanks for the info
Looking at diagram 8-4 in the manual and what you changed on the transformer makes me think you only changed the 110 volt control circuit to run on 220. I think there are two other jumper setups on that diagram and the next page to change the motors themselves to 220 from 440. And yes, check phasing on the motors.
Thanks 🙏
How strait are the ways? Very nice catch :)
Thanks. The ways look really good.
Where did u come across a deal that good ,,seems like I'm always a day late,,nice lathe,,
This particular one I found at a company going out of business and it wasn’t wired up so I couldn’t see it run and just took the gamble
the main motor is spinning backwards, change one of the wires to change the rotational direction
Thanks
Always clean the ways prior to use
Thanks for the tip
Olá amigo que maravilha,meu sonho de consumo ainda é um torno industrializado!!!
Boa sorte sempre aí!!!
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Replace the motor with a brushless AC servo motor then you can also put servo adapters on the handles then get a Mesa board and run LinuxCNC!
That would be cool!
12:10 knurl cutter in the midel of the video
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The wiring change you did was only the control transformer!
Each motor on the machine MUST also be set for the correct voltage.
I read through the manual and it says everything is pre-wired for 240. So pretty much when I switched the jumpers for 240 it bypassed the transformer. The transformer only drops down 480 to 240.
Great deal, you won.
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Nice score:) I'm in Alaska we never have good deals on heavy iron:( Dont buy a cheap china quick change tool post and holders find a good used Aloris. Using cheap china tool holders is like putting semi tires on a Powerwheels car. It will may work, but not well. #1 good tool holder #2 Kenametal carbide tools#3 a "good" live center #4 PLEASE OIL THAT WAYS!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!! sorry my OCD kicked in :) P.s dont trust amzons lathe tooling Buy once cry once applies more to lathes than any tool I have i the shop. Bison,Kenametal,Aloris Abom79 is the guy to watch for tooling if he uses it than its good. I'm super jelly of the lathe score also the the fact you can have a tent shop and the weather doesn't wreck it in the winter.
Thanks 🙏
Will it Run ,.......no it has feet but no legs 😁😁
😳
Is it just me or is the spindle turning clockwise?
I had the phase backwards
Looks like a good clean up and she will be a great machine
I think so too!
would have been nice to use a lathe to build out the CV slip hub on the CAT Ford driveshaft, but the other guy'd be pissed seeing something being jig fitted and welded using the chuck as a line up holder. cutting only? to cheap to buy a pack of rod bearings so stamps sheet off the shear and cuts it down... wraps square wire around a bar to piston ring slinky... etc.
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As a retired Cl;ass “A” engine lathe operated It just takes time. And you could have taken a much heavier cut.
Thanks for the info
I can’t believe you got that for just 550..
for once I’d like to be that guy.. lol hell a deal man. That’s a good capable machine my man. And that “gauge” you are referring to is called a trav-a-dial and is a very handy and accurate indicator of how far the apron has travelled. Think of it as an “old school DRO”
But that is a perfect size machine to have too. Just big enough to tackle some real projects.
Thanks for the view. I appreciate it
It's a Howa. Great purchase!
Yes! Thank you!
That’s a beauty lathe. Take care off it, use it for 50 years and then turn it over to the next machinist.
Thanks I will for sure
$500 ?
You stole that - fabulous deal !
Thanks for the support 🙏
He also took a $1200 gamble that could have gone the other way. A lot of people wouldn’t have been prepared to take that gamble.
I wasn't familiar with this MFG so I expected Chinese for that price but then the manual seems too good for that. That seems like a heck of a deal for a large Japanese lathe.
It’s a pretty good lathe so far
damn fine machine!!! You got a damn deal. Just make sure to clean the piss out of it and level it so that it doesn't have any flex.
Thanks for the view and the advice. I really appreciate it!
shouldnt 650 be a pocket change to a burger?
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Change all the oil before you run it to much and clean everything.
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It's funny to see a cnc'er try to find out how a manual lathe works. Hopefully he'll not crash it or hurt himself.
Only time will tell my friend
Nice lathe
Thanks 🙏
A win for sure!
Thanks 🙏
good machine
Thank you
That's a win !
Thanks 🙏
You got a great deal
Thanks 🙏
I'm by no means a expert, but heres some of what I've been taught on the job - 3 jaw chucks only need to be used with the keyway with the 0 marked on it, but it's also how you identify how to put the chuck back on and off the spindle. 4 jaw chucks will allow you to take a dial indiactor on your work piece and independently adjust each jaw for runout. You need to see if your tailstock is aligned on 0 for any type of accurate drilling or turning between centers. Some of these old machines take a minute to get up in high gear, but be warned shit starts breaking at high speeds. Get a bandsaw for your round stock. Get a rubber mallet and lightly bang on whatever you chucked up and tighten it again - the chuck jaws might make a more consistent hold on your part if your flipping it around like how you turned down that steel. If you want to make sure your tool is on center - throw a drill bit in the chuck and line the edge of your insert to the center of the bit to get a close enough for most things height.
Also that's a great deal you got! Looking forward to more videos!
Awesome man! Thanks for the info, I’ll definitely use it
That is a HUGE "building" you got for $3500 😯
I just hope you dont live somewhere where there are Tornados or Hurricanes, ouch 😬
I’ve actually had a tornado 🌪️ come right through here and it held up great.
@prestigemanufacturing2611 wow ok, that's impressive.
You lucky sob…. Nice!
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Win brother
Thanks 🙏
Time to take those gloves off brother. You’re a manual guy now. And as far as the RPMs go, I run steel at 6-800 everyday. Whatever gives me the best finish in my line of work
lol thanks for the tip, ill definitely use it!
You can't change over a lathe from 440v to 220v by only changing the single phase control transformer taps. the spindle motor and any other motors powered from the lathe control have to be rewired for 220v operation. Get another tattoo and read the manual.
Actually, I did read the manual man and that’s exactly how you doing it on that lathe and I’m not sure what my tattoos have to do with anything other than you being a hater 🤷🏻♂️
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Thank you 🙏 I appreciate it
That was a bargain
Thanks 🙏
ACME thread
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It's $550 how horrible could your financial decision really be? You would get half of that in scrap
That’s what I thought when I bought it
Wow, tattoos. :-/
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stole it.
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Will this lathe remove all your ghastly tattoos?
only time will tell
I do hope you are going to change the oil and clean the machine. Yes it is a very good buy . So is the shed always going to have dirt floors??????????
Thanks 🙏 no I plan on putting concrete in next summer
It's not a CNC , even after years of running a manual anything, and even after decades on just manual machines, you will STILL find better ways to do a job with one. My advice, watch the old manual Machinists and copy there set ups , speeds & feeds. Not easy but there are things you can do with a manual machine a CNC can't touch. The set ups are the key and it will take decades to learn most of them. There is one thing not in the manual, the ways & lead screws inside the compound & cross feed both must be keep extra clean and must be re lubed very often (the more the better). Also, the ways must be cleaned with solvent, wiped spotless and totally re lubed with way oil (yes, it's different then auto oil.) everyday of use. The lead screw should be cleaned & lubed everyday of use as well. The compound screw MUST BE TAKEN APART, & REMOVED and cleaned in solvent & re lubed about every month or so. (I use way oil for first coat, then molly wheel bearing grease on both the cross feed & compound screws. Remember this is a MANUAL machine, it only has 1 set of gibbs that must be totally cleaned & re lubed & adjusted correctly to hold tolerances, run that lathe dry like it is, you will destroy the gibb bar & the ways very quick. CNCs have 2 sometimes 3 sets of gibb bars so it's not that hard on them with a CNC, but on any manual machine, upkeep on all the lead screws & gibbs & ways is a top priority to maintain. So yes, I do see a full 8 hour day or more of cleaning & lube work to be done on that machine before you start using it if you want to keep it in good shape. It's part of the job on a Manual machine be it a Mill or a Lathe. I had a old instructor in my apprenticeship tell us something I never forgot, there is no such thing as TO CLEAN ! one chip can do tons of damage real quick on any manual machine that is not maintained correctly. I been running manuals for over 50 years now, my job? fix everything the CNCs screw up plus, strictly custom one offs or short runs. Also in my opinion, get rid of that tool post holder ----- get a set of top quality Quick Change tool post holders, Thank me later as it makes life on a lathe so much faster and easy. See link www.bing.com/images/search?q=photos%20of%20manual%20lathe%20quick%20change%20tool%20post%20holders&view=detailv2&FORM=IQFRBA&id=C96D3B26B6ACEA0CAD3ED2629CD475B4F152BF2D&selectedindex=6&&expw=474&exph=474&ccid=aaWgK61J&ck=7F8977932EF2C5D78CA554C402D9ACFD&thid=OIP.aaWgK61JiiARc9GGNivvhgAAAA&idpp=serp&idpbck=1
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