There was a machine shop in north New York state that had dirt floors and the building was a pole barn. The shop had been in business since ww2. They did excellent work. Good luck
Where I live I need a permit for any structure over 200 square feet. I have a half acre lot, I just had cleared, on the outskirts of town I would love to put in a shop.
if you use road mat instead of the Geo cloth, it comes in 13 foot wide rolls and a bit thicker. In my area we buy it from Ferguson. Nice start on a great bldg! crushed rock compacted with a double drum roller makes a beefy/inexpensive floor that can also be a base for whatever you do later. Nicely done!
@@mikegrok vevor has fucking everything lol. I bought a laser engraver from them and turned it into a plasma cutter. and just bought some cheap universal exhaust pipe from them to redo my mustang's haha
I'm not about to tell a grown man what to do. But I spent roughly a decade machining. Operating everything from Fanuc to mach 3 systems. I'm all for a poor man's project. I'm always looking for the most inexpensive way to do things myself. I'm absolutely terrified thinking about CNC machines sitting on rock. If you endure a catastrophic failure through bad inputs etc, that will generate enough energy to throw the machine on its side. It could seriously hurt somebody or worse. Something to consider, is slab of concrete with rebar and threaded tie-downs exclusively for the machines
I'm a maintenance manager for a company with over 250 cnc machine tools. None of our lathes are anchored into concrete. I would worry more about how you plan to tram a mill out on an unfinished floor than tipping anything over. You could always pour concrete pads just for the machines. Beats guessing whether it's going to work.
Also if gravity inverts momentarily it can send the machines flying into the air, then they fall on whoever is next to them. Very dangerous. Seen it happen enough times to bet on it.
@@MikeYurbasovich that's crazy. I seen machines jump due to a catastrophic programming error. And you guys have 250 machines in which I'm sure OSHA has paid a visit many times and said that's fine. So I guess it's a thing.
@JohnSmith-bh8um Most lathes don't even have provisions for anchoring. Only when you get up into 800mm vtl's where they expect a slab to be poured do you see through holes in the leveling bolts. Mills are a different story, though. Sometimes, to get your tram, you must anchor them. OSHA has no idea what they are looking at with these machines.
I like it, plus I enjoy reading the comments on the videos. I even text this to my little brother because he just divorced and need to get himself a new work shop for working on big rigs, 18 wheelers. I hope this gives him some ideas. If he has to rent a ship it's not going to be cheap on him. But I think he could make this work and he only needs to pour a small 20x20 foot concrete floor to use to lift those heavy trucks and later he can pour the rest of the floor. But like I told him, we can beef up those frame trusses to hold the weight of the wall and roof metal weight. Thanks for sharing your video with us all. 10 minute video is perfect length of time to watch it.
Love it. Wonder how much you'll need to pay for winter/cooling though. An idea: build an 8 foot planter box around the entire thing (make a tunnel for entry). This is my concept (outlined on my channel) to use earth insulation to create a stable temp year around.
Before you move on to converting the trussed tent into a permanent dwelling, I'd suggest having a structural engineer review your plan. These very light frames that hold fabric may not have much excess capacity to attach lots of wood framing, sheathing(?), insulation and interior finishes(?). They SHOULD be able to resist some wind and snow capacity, and it may be a lot, and you may have studied that already, but if not you need to know real good what all that is before adding more dead load to it. Then you have the legality of making this all pass code in your jurisdiction. Commercial buildings (excluding Residential and some Agricultural) typically require an Architect or P.E. to help cover all the bases. But hey, you are making it go, so good luck.
What is your plan for moisture inside the building. With temp changes you will get dew building up on the machines which will lead to rust on precision parts.
I’m actually in the process now of installing a vapor barrier in between the outside and the inside of the building. I’m putting the vapor barrier on the inside part of the double truss and then I’m going to insulate it eventually, but for now just having that vapor barrier will keep the moisture away from anything inside of the building. At least I hope lol
Suggestion...Poor Man's Concrete... If you used a 57 stone, (or any larger stone with voids) you can come back over it with "Crusher Run" which is a bit cheaper and will compact to be almost like concrete. Just screed the crusher run flat, (about 2" thick minimum) spray it with water from the garden hose then go over it with a plate tamper... The crusher run has fine dust and sand that will get down in the voids of the bigger rock below and lock it together.
@@prestigemanufacturingky No problem...And if you find some spare change you could also sprinkle in a few bags of Portland cement before you wet it down and run the plate tamper on it...
I like it, spacious and wide. With the head space you could build loft space on either side. Great find, looking forward to see where you're going to take it. Have a good day.
I use to put up those hoop shelter. We use to put 8x8 post and build a wall around the bottom and bolt the hoop ends to the tops of the post. You may wanta put couple industrial fans up on top to move the heat. That way you could used the post for your big door and the service door. That's going to be a nice shop. Do concrete pads under your machines. Run your wood stove heat in to a big main duct. The wood will get pricey and time consuming maybe think bot a waste oil furnace or a propane heater that run the length of you shop it be suspended by the peak. Sorry for the rambling stuff have a great day n keep up the great videos.
Nice man thanks for the advice. I actually just installed a big exhaust fan up top and put a vapor barrier inside. Pads for the machines are a great idea!
The way to keep the wood stove from sucking cash is the just basically cut your own wood and get it free. You could also have medium to large size metal containers that are vented that are heated with that would and therefore they become a thermal battery for you even when you've only got a couple logs inside.
We bought 5.5 acres, spent a couple weeks with our skid steer clearing a build site and then spent $200k building a 60x80x24 tall steel building. I kind of wish we went your way.
@prestigemanufacturing2611 I did a ton of the work on the building myself but there were parts of it I couldn't pull off without help from other trades. It was also very helpful my father was a retired General contractor and knew how to oversee a jobsite and keep subs on task. We still spent a bunch in the end but it was the right time to do it in 2019. Just before the covid drama.
We spent about the same, like you had immediate buyers remorse and wish I went the inexpensive (cheap) way instead. However in the first year we had 4 major Hurricanes, a massive flood, and a handful of tornadoes. I now can appreciate all the upgrades the engineer and contractors sold me on. Admiditly their advice was a gamble with my money, but in our case it is paying off. Nothing like being the brick house surrounded buy a bunch of straw housed pigs.
Love to see your still active man! Shop looks great for a start. Definitely need to fill out that frame with something more sturdy to protect your investment. Looking forward to future vids!
I’m actually in the process of putting a second layer of plastic up right now inside and connecting more boards to make it more sturdy. Thanks for watching man!
I think your building is nice. And you're up and running. I am impressed. You can certainly upgrade later like you plan to do. I just subscribed to your channel. Have a great weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
I’m looking into a shop for my semi truck but on a constricted budget. This is definitely an interesting idea to start with! I have to do alot of things in stages due to time and money. I’m thinking put one of these up and add wood and tin to it as I can to convert it to a “pole barn” down the line. Probably will cost me more in the long run but there’s a ying to every yang I suppose.
you can spray foam between the poles , idk about the price of that, but it at least won't flap in the wind and keep some heat in winer. in this case i was also thinking about adding chicken wire in the foam to strengthen it
That’s a good suggestion. I was thinking about that myself and wondering how I could get the foam to stick in between the polls because it’s a long span.
Totally upgradeable too, can come back later and put cross floor frames in and pour concrete, its double truss so you can add walls and roof and support beams down the length
Along the way, If your funds allow, I'd add some Lumber along both Sides, joined in a "L", to both add Stiffness, as Bracing, and Shelving Space between the Steel Frames. Bolted to the Steelwork, and in two Levels: a Lower and an Upper Level!
Really good for a starter building for a vehicle garage. A person always put metal on the sides and a medal roof as time went on. But a little at a time and turn it into a metal building.
Cheap is my language. Time will tell how well it works, not the haters. Besides, doing experiments like this is the scientific way. Who knows until you try. Its an adventure for the time being.
You should probably relocate that furnace to it's own smaller shed/steel carport, well away from this building (due to flyash/cinders from smoke stack) and either run a pair of well insulated ducts if it's a forced air furnace, or add a 1" heavy duty stainless steel/ or heavy iron pipe loop to the Firebox with a small reservoir/ return tank(with a safety/pressure blow off valve) next to the furnace, some pex tubing, a pair of circulation pumps, and a big 3 or 4 core brass or aluminum radiator (no plastic tanks!!) For your heat exchanger in the shop. You can run a thermostatically controlled fan on exchanger, and that can even control a forced air blower/solenoid damper on fresh air vents or door of burn box to more efficiently bank/burn the fuel. Fill system with 50/50 mixed antifreeze." Distilled water only if your mixing it yourself. With this setup you can even expand on it in the future and run in floor heat, and or a baseboard exchanger loop.
Frickin' Brilliant! You've got the beefy trusses, you can add on as money and time permit! Hope you're not too cold the first winter, though! lolz, I see you've been thinking of that! I cannot think how to raise the capital for a 3-d metal print shop equipment, but that's my dream.
Heck of a deal. Where abouts are you? No building codes in your area? Power companies are getting really fussy in some states, and won't provide service unless all sorts of picky conditions are met.
If you mat the floor, made some forms, spray foam insulation 1-2 inches, another layer of mat(or that heavier mat, another commented about). Just a thought. When ever you do concrete(radiated heat built into the concrete floor.). That same radiator can heat the build too. He'll radiate the parking area too(no snow removal, no snow shovel, no ice-melt to throw out.)
I did not hear mention what type of fabric was used. if it is vinyl based fabric it will last at least 10 years. If it is a poly tarp it will only last one year.
I want to add my concerns about what you have. For very short term use, you may be fine but I would be concerned about wind loading on your structure. Secondly how long will that fabric actually last considering what the UV rays of the sun will do? I understand the budget issue but if you don’t have a plan on creating a secure exterior then you could have something that will come tumbling down. The ribs of the structure can withstand how much weight? I recognize that when these ribs are tied together it can make for an extremely strong structure to a point. I would definitely be planning on reinforcing what you have put up and adding additional ribs to spread your load out.even further.
Thanks for the concern. If you watch the video to the end, my plan actually is that hopefully the fabric will last until next season and at that point I’m actually going to reinforce it and skin it like a pole barn.
If you poured a continuous footing it would be easy to fill in the walls later? , you could also use high density foam and make it a very strong building.
for a machine shop as long as you compact everything well you should be fine, worst case scenario is you have to pour a few pads for machines at some point.
could possibly upgrade to sheathing the whole thing in corrugated roofing metal, but that frame wouldn't handle the weight of being sheathed in plywood. Lateral braces would need to be replaced from those little poles. If ends/doors are open, potential uplift from wind might require upgraded anchors to the concrete pads with rigid sheathing.
I think it's great now you can do anything you want because you saved so much money. I wouldn't mind having something like that, for my personal building mine is way too small.
I got a slightly smaller building from the auction. My question is, did you apply for a building permit, since that is actually not a permanent building? Second question is, could you please share what dimensions you’re concrete footers are?
I didn’t have to get a permit because the county I’m in told me it’s considered a temporary building. I made my footers 20”x20” so I had plenty of extra wiggle room on the pad to line everything up. Thanks for the view.
How survival do you figure it is in a strong storm? Do you think it will hold up to a tornado, or, will you be picking up the pieces in Nebraska or Kansas?
There has actually been a tornado come right through here about three blocks away and some of the strongest winds I’ve ever seen in the building has held up good so far
FYI they will never blacktop inside a bldg...it needs direct sunlight to cure right so that'll be out.....also how you planning on maintaining lvl for your CNC machines on gravel??
I wonder if you can sheath the outside with a lightweight material. I just worry about protecting the expensive equipment inside from weather. Insurance is slow to deal with and a pain. Biggest problem is downtime and losing customers in the process. Just a thought.
Question would be was the light expectancy of the cover and can you buy the replacement if need to. What is the total weight in case I want to ship it from point a to B? Please reply. sorry just read what I type now and I made a mistake. A question was what would be the life expectancy of a cover?.😊 this is the third time the question was what was the life expectancy of the fabric cover for that building thank you
How long will that Tent Material Tolerate the Weather with out Leaking or just ripping in the wind and falling apart due to Sun Damage or Timing Out? I think You better Buy a whole Pallet of Tire or Water Bed Patch Kits.
Hills Industrial is that the name of the fabric or just a name for the building. Who is making it and where is it made? I guess its a Chine made.... hoping Im wrong.
😅This is Amazing. Here is what my mind is thinking. You know those hippies in the desert that build their „homesteads“ efficient, green, liberal lives? Ive seen sprayfoam around a blownup large balloon and then cement over that and more. I know it sounds insane but I am wondering if you could pressurize the thing with air and then spray it with that amazing foam and then do whatever. This thing
Love it I'm trying to break out of a cycle I hate spending major amounts of money for an apartment I do not want to rent a expensive three-bedroom house so I can have a two car garage. I'm trying to break the cycle I would love to get a deal with a farmer who will let me have a little bit of land to do this.
In the military, specifically in Iraq, we had inflatable clam shells... in other words a very large tent big enough to hold helicopters. Im not sure the price point. However... Ive also seen a play on the inflatable structures where people spray the outside with concrete. Add chicken wire and spray again. Then remove the inflatable.
The deal with the inflatable is is that there is positive pressure extending an all directions so that when you do apply layer on the outer side it has the resistance that won't work with this style of easy up building
A lot to say here. I bought a tent garage from harbor freight. Wind took it out in a year. I have seen tent buildings in horse show environment last but the material is more stout than what you have there. I hope it lasts. I do know though it is temporary. So plan to fix in the future or your tools will have rain on them. So save what you can as you get jobs done to fix building.
@@prestigemanufacturingkyyou can always take a section of it and place it under a hydraulic press that has the digital readout and so has it slowly starts to come down on it and then when it starts to deform, stop the press that will give you a little idea of the weight or pounds per square inch it will handle. I don't think you have any square tube or 90 degree frame sections. I think it's all Cylindrical tubing so you want to make sure that the thickness is a minimum of 3/16 preferably 1/4 inch or thicker. Those tubes aren't hard to bend/collapse given the right force/impact+load+shear direction(s).
@prestigemanufacturing2611 well I over shot your video. I was thinking those hook together plastic forms that people fill with rock to make a road, but that was moisture barrier in the video. Both work for that project. The plastic forms would be for heavy items, RV's, trucks, equipment. Hold tons of weight & strong like concrete.
I’m sorry but this looks rather flimsy. It’s basically a large tent. Seems a storm will rip this place up. Good thing we don’t have strong storms in the U.S. right? It’s cheap now, but when this place is blown down and all your expensive machines get rained on and blown all over the place would it be worth it?
@@prestigemanufacturingky I am kinda concerned with the commenter. Hopefully you don't live where the winds get fast or you have heavy snowfall as my friend built something similar and they material didnt last long under the weight. Wishing you the best with the build though hopefully it's not a problem.
@@prestigemanufacturingky I paused to comment in the last 30 seconds then heard your plan for the roofing, I think that's a great idea nevermind my original comment sorry LOL
These make great (in stages) buildings.... bought two from temu last yr and did the same...ITS CALLED WORKING WITH WHAT YOU HAVE!!!SAME PRINCIPLES THAT MADE AMERICA TO START WITH.🤯🇺🇲💯GIVE,EM HELL BROTHER👍💯🇺🇲
you could always just spray foam over the skin. 2 or 3 inches of foam will turn a tarp structure into something with decent strength and insulation value.
@@prestigemanufacturingky I built an admittedly fairly primitive hunting cabin by just foaming over a tarp teepee with about 4 inches of foam, then spraying on a thick coat of rubberized roof sealer. It's still intact fifteen years later.
It's tough to justify the expense when the building was so cheap. I paid $2000 for my 20'x33' building just like this one. The guys I got bids from wanted $5-6000 to spray it. I had no idea it was that expensive.
You don’t think the frame would be able to handle 1 by 2 inch furring strips just to attach the corrugated steel? The frame is pretty thick and seems pretty strong.
@prestigemanufacturing2611 probably can but its not needed if you go with commercial structural paneling you would leave the plastic on as your vapor barrier as well
I hope you have put in a unground drainage system for water run-off, property run-off. To prevent erosion, footers from settling and future settling/ movement, underground erosion. You cut into a hillside and definitely not at the highest elevation. You'll have water run-off toward your building, from your building and trapped around your building. Better figure 8"D pipes towards the lowest point of the property that flows into the natural water drainage or improved drainage system. That buildings rainfall is along both sides of the building, to prevent foundation integrity. Soil can take weather, run-off weather, soak up weather and dry-up/dry-out at a normal rate. All soils are different and might require more/less depending on the soil, natural run-off, rainfall in your area and if you've done anything to change that. That clay dirt will be a greasy mess of a parking lot(2"-4" rock-4"-6"D, 3/4" rock 2"-4"D), around entire building to the county road or Hwy. only after your drainage system front, rear down both sides of the building to solid underground drainage lines at least for 20', before any perforated underground pipe is used in your drainage system. To preserve a building you have to secure the foundations integrity. Any rain, run-off, run-off produced by the structure itself needs to be kept away or moved away from the foundation asap(0-20 feet, 360 degrees of the foundation or footers). You can transition to a perforated drainage pipe after 20', I'd go a little more if it was me or not at all. This something most people don't think about, even the pros(they don't figure for enough drainage.). "You have to have to much, to have enough." You have acre of land, it's 209', 229' square, 1" deep of water on an acre is 27,000gals.. You have 2-3ac. of ground you excavated for this building. That ground needs to dry in a few days. Ground can't dry with standing water on it, you have to get rid of it, Sun, slope or drains(all 3.). 1"D water/per ac.= 27,000gals., 2ac. 1" water = (54,000gals.), 3ac. 1"water =(81,000gals.). A 3 acre property has to get rid of 81,,000gals. of water, for every inch of rain it receives. Then you have to consider how many acres of land is higher than your 3ac., it's rain runs towards your 3ac. and you have to get rid of that water too. You might not get 100% of that water, you better figure on it. The alternative costs a lot more when the time comes, then it will cost you if plan for it now. Before gravel, asphalt, and digging it all up and putting it back down. Blessings be upon ther
Well, a tornado came through my neighborhood, literally a block from the building and we’ve had some of the worst wind I’ve ever seen and there’s not so much as a pinhole in it. I’ve seen demos where they pick up whole pick up trucks with this fabric.
Looks nice, and nice job but! that wont last 2 years before rips start happening, once its ripped then leaks, and damage! Hope im wrong but fabric especially out in the sun, just will not last, neither does plastic, and what about the rats mice and vermin? critters like that can do real damage! anyway thats my 2 cents hope im wrong good luck
There was a machine shop in north New York state that had dirt floors and the building was a pole barn. The shop had been in business since ww2. They did excellent work.
Good luck
Nice!! I would’ve loved to see that! Thanks for the view 🙏
Several in upstate. Grew up in Beekmantown and I remember several barn shops like that.
Where I live I need a permit for any structure over 200 square feet.
I have a half acre lot, I just had cleared, on the outskirts of town I would love to put in a shop.
I wonder if they would consider one of these a structure? It’s considered temporary in most places.
@@prestigemanufacturingky can't hurt to ask what the limitations are...I'll check into it with the county.
if you use road mat instead of the Geo cloth, it comes in 13 foot wide rolls and a bit thicker. In my area we buy it from Ferguson. Nice start on a great bldg! crushed rock compacted with a double drum roller makes a beefy/inexpensive floor that can also be a base for whatever you do later. Nicely done!
Thanks for the info man. I appreciate it.
@@prestigemanufacturingky vevor also has it as driveway fabric.
@@mikegrok vevor has fucking everything lol. I bought a laser engraver from them and turned it into a plasma cutter. and just bought some cheap universal exhaust pipe from them to redo my mustang's haha
I'm not about to tell a grown man what to do. But I spent roughly a decade machining. Operating everything from Fanuc to mach 3 systems. I'm all for a poor man's project. I'm always looking for the most inexpensive way to do things myself. I'm absolutely terrified thinking about CNC machines sitting on rock. If you endure a catastrophic failure through bad inputs etc, that will generate enough energy to throw the machine on its side. It could seriously hurt somebody or worse. Something to consider, is slab of concrete with rebar and threaded tie-downs exclusively for the machines
Thanks for sharing
I'm a maintenance manager for a company with over 250 cnc machine tools. None of our lathes are anchored into concrete. I would worry more about how you plan to tram a mill out on an unfinished floor than tipping anything over. You could always pour concrete pads just for the machines. Beats guessing whether it's going to work.
Also if gravity inverts momentarily it can send the machines flying into the air, then they fall on whoever is next to them. Very dangerous. Seen it happen enough times to bet on it.
@@MikeYurbasovich that's crazy. I seen machines jump due to a catastrophic programming error. And you guys have 250 machines in which I'm sure OSHA has paid a visit many times and said that's fine. So I guess it's a thing.
@JohnSmith-bh8um Most lathes don't even have provisions for anchoring. Only when you get up into 800mm vtl's where they expect a slab to be poured do you see through holes in the leveling bolts. Mills are a different story, though. Sometimes, to get your tram, you must anchor them. OSHA has no idea what they are looking at with these machines.
I like it, plus I enjoy reading the comments on the videos. I even text this to my little brother because he just divorced and need to get himself a new work shop for working on big rigs, 18 wheelers. I hope this gives him some ideas. If he has to rent a ship it's not going to be cheap on him. But I think he could make this work and he only needs to pour a small 20x20 foot concrete floor to use to lift those heavy trucks and later he can pour the rest of the floor. But like I told him, we can beef up those frame trusses to hold the weight of the wall and roof metal weight. Thanks for sharing your video with us all. 10 minute video is perfect length of time to watch it.
Thanks man. He should go for it. This would be perfect for him
Love it. Wonder how much you'll need to pay for winter/cooling though. An idea: build an 8 foot planter box around the entire thing (make a tunnel for entry). This is my concept (outlined on my channel) to use earth insulation to create a stable temp year around.
Before you move on to converting the trussed tent into a permanent dwelling, I'd suggest having a structural engineer review your plan. These very light frames that hold fabric may not have much excess capacity to attach lots of wood framing, sheathing(?), insulation and interior finishes(?). They SHOULD be able to resist some wind and snow capacity, and it may be a lot, and you may have studied that already, but if not you need to know real good what all that is before adding more dead load to it. Then you have the legality of making this all pass code in your jurisdiction. Commercial buildings (excluding Residential and some Agricultural) typically require an Architect or P.E. to help cover all the bases. But hey, you are making it go, so good luck.
🙏
Exactly
This will not work it will fail with sheathing etc
Some cross beams might help I would imagine
What is your plan for moisture inside the building. With temp changes you will get dew building up on the machines which will lead to rust on precision parts.
I’m actually in the process now of installing a vapor barrier in between the outside and the inside of the building. I’m putting the vapor barrier on the inside part of the double truss and then I’m going to insulate it eventually, but for now just having that vapor barrier will keep the moisture away from anything inside of the building. At least I hope lol
Suggestion...Poor Man's Concrete...
If you used a 57 stone, (or any larger stone with voids) you can come back over it with "Crusher Run" which is a bit cheaper and will compact to be almost like concrete. Just screed the crusher run flat, (about 2" thick minimum) spray it with water from the garden hose then go over it with a plate tamper...
The crusher run has fine dust and sand that will get down in the voids of the bigger rock below and lock it together.
Nice. Thanks for the info
@@prestigemanufacturingky No problem...And if you find some spare change you could also sprinkle in a few bags of Portland cement before you wet it down and run the plate tamper on it...
I like it, spacious and wide. With the head space you could build loft space on either side. Great find, looking forward to see where you're going to take it. Have a good day.
That's a great idea! Thanks for the view 🙏
I use to put up those hoop shelter. We use to put 8x8 post and build a wall around the bottom and bolt the hoop ends to the tops of the post. You may wanta put couple industrial fans up on top to move the heat. That way you could used the post for your big door and the service door. That's going to be a nice shop. Do concrete pads under your machines. Run your wood stove heat in to a big main duct. The wood will get pricey and time consuming maybe think bot a waste oil furnace or a propane heater that run the length of you shop it be suspended by the peak. Sorry for the rambling stuff have a great day n keep up the great videos.
Nice man thanks for the advice. I actually just installed a big exhaust fan up top and put a vapor barrier inside. Pads for the machines are a great idea!
@prestigemanufacturing2611 sweet i was just throwing ideas out there. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks🙏
@prestigemanufacturing2611 your welcome can't wait for the next video be safe good luck
The way to keep the wood stove from sucking cash is the just basically cut your own wood and get it free. You could also have medium to large size metal containers that are vented that are heated with that would and therefore they become a thermal battery for you even when you've only got a couple logs inside.
In Afghanistan after a while when they were getting old they would just encapsulate the whole tents in spray foam.
I thought about that. Maybe add some extra ribbbing and spray
You could always apply a rubber or elastomeric coating to the top to give it a half a chance past once season, too.
We bought 5.5 acres, spent a couple weeks with our skid steer clearing a build site and then spent $200k building a 60x80x24 tall steel building. I kind of wish we went your way.
If I had the money to spend, I would probably get a $200,000 building as well. I bet yours is super nice! I’ll get there one day 🙏
@prestigemanufacturing2611 I did a ton of the work on the building myself but there were parts of it I couldn't pull off without help from other trades. It was also very helpful my father was a retired General contractor and knew how to oversee a jobsite and keep subs on task. We still spent a bunch in the end but it was the right time to do it in 2019. Just before the covid drama.
Nice!!
@@travislawson1185kn
We spent about the same, like you had immediate buyers remorse and wish I went the inexpensive (cheap) way instead. However in the first year we had 4 major Hurricanes, a massive flood, and a handful of tornadoes. I now can appreciate all the upgrades the engineer and contractors sold me on. Admiditly their advice was a gamble with my money, but in our case it is paying off. Nothing like being the brick house surrounded buy a bunch of straw housed pigs.
That would make an awesome greenhouse
Definitely
Thank you for sharing your awesome home
👍
Love to see your still active man! Shop looks great for a start. Definitely need to fill out that frame with something more sturdy to protect your investment. Looking forward to future vids!
I’m actually in the process of putting a second layer of plastic up right now inside and connecting more boards to make it more sturdy. Thanks for watching man!
Seems like it’s worth a shot, I’ll be interested in seeing how it works out for the long run. Hope it goes well for you.
I'm excited to see how it works out too, will keep you posted.
I think your building is nice.
And you're up and running.
I am impressed.
You can certainly upgrade later like you plan to do.
I just subscribed to your channel.
Have a great weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
Thanks for your support. I appreciate it !
I’m looking into a shop for my semi truck but on a constricted budget. This is definitely an interesting idea to start with! I have to do alot of things in stages due to time and money. I’m thinking put one of these up and add wood and tin to it as I can to convert it to a “pole barn” down the line. Probably will cost me more in the long run but there’s a ying to every yang I suppose.
Go for it!
you can spray foam between the poles , idk about the price of that, but it at least won't flap in the wind and keep some heat in winer.
in this case i was also thinking about adding chicken wire in the foam to strengthen it
That’s a good suggestion. I was thinking about that myself and wondering how I could get the foam to stick in between the polls because it’s a long span.
Totally upgradeable too, can come back later and put cross floor frames in and pour concrete, its double truss so you can add walls and roof and support beams down the length
That’s the plan as soon as I can
Along the way, If your funds allow, I'd add some Lumber along both Sides, joined in a "L", to both add Stiffness, as Bracing, and Shelving Space between the Steel Frames.
Bolted to the Steelwork, and in two Levels: a Lower and an Upper Level!
Thanks for the tip!
Really good for a starter building for a vehicle garage. A person always put metal on the sides and a medal roof as time went on. But a little at a time and turn it into a metal building.
Thanks
This is awesome. Nice Job Brother. Hope you get your CNC's up and running soon!
Thanks I appreciate it
Cheap is my language. Time will tell how well it works, not the haters. Besides, doing experiments like this is the scientific way. Who knows until you try. Its an adventure for the time being.
Thanks. Thats how I feel about it too!
You should probably relocate that furnace to it's own smaller shed/steel carport, well away from this building (due to flyash/cinders from smoke stack) and either run a pair of well insulated ducts if it's a forced air furnace, or add a 1" heavy duty stainless steel/ or heavy iron pipe loop to the Firebox with a small reservoir/ return tank(with a safety/pressure blow off valve) next to the furnace, some pex tubing, a pair of circulation pumps, and a big 3 or 4 core brass or aluminum radiator (no plastic tanks!!) For your heat exchanger in the shop. You can run a thermostatically controlled fan on exchanger, and that can even control a forced air blower/solenoid damper on fresh air vents or door of burn box to more efficiently bank/burn the fuel. Fill system with 50/50 mixed antifreeze." Distilled water only if your mixing it yourself. With this setup you can even expand on it in the future and run in floor heat, and or a baseboard exchanger loop.
Thanks for the info
Thank you for sharing you are the best my friend
Thank you for watching
Frickin' Brilliant! You've got the beefy trusses, you can add on as money and time permit! Hope you're not too cold the first winter, though! lolz, I see you've been thinking of that! I cannot think how to raise the capital for a 3-d metal print shop equipment, but that's my dream.
Thanks for the support
Heck of a deal. Where abouts are you? No building codes in your area? Power companies are getting really fussy in some states, and won't provide service unless all sorts of picky conditions are met.
Luckily . I live in the middle of the country and I’m governed by County regulations and not city.
Yeah it's big but I don't see it holding up in a storm maybe the frame will but that big tent on it is gonna blow away
Well we’ve had two tornados 🌪️ come through and it’s still standing 🤷🏻♂️
If you mat the floor, made some forms, spray foam insulation 1-2 inches, another layer of mat(or that heavier mat, another commented about). Just a thought. When ever you do concrete(radiated heat built into the concrete floor.). That same radiator can heat the build too. He'll radiate the parking area too(no snow removal, no snow shovel, no ice-melt to throw out.)
Thanks 🙏
These things are actually pretty handy, if you don't mind replacing the fabric every few years.
Hopefully I’ll have the fabric replaced with pole barn metal next year.
I did not hear mention what type of fabric was used. if it is vinyl based fabric it will last at least 10 years. If it is a poly tarp it will only last one year.
You should put sheet metal on it in the future. It’ll be alot stronger. Definitely intrigued. Great work
That's the plan! Thanks for the support!
I want to add my concerns about what you have. For very short term use, you may be fine but I would be concerned about wind loading on your structure. Secondly how long will that fabric actually last considering what the UV rays of the sun will do? I understand the budget issue but if you don’t have a plan on creating a secure exterior then you could have something that will come tumbling down. The ribs of the structure can withstand how much weight? I recognize that when these ribs are tied together it can make for an extremely strong structure to a point. I would definitely be planning on reinforcing what you have put up and adding additional ribs to spread your load out.even further.
Thanks for the concern. If you watch the video to the end, my plan actually is that hopefully the fabric will last until next season and at that point I’m actually going to reinforce it and skin it like a pole barn.
If you poured a continuous footing it would be easy to fill in the walls later? , you could also use high density foam and make it a very strong building.
I was wondering about the foam thing.
for a machine shop as long as you compact everything well you should be fine, worst case scenario is you have to pour a few pads for machines at some point.
That’s what I was thinking
I agree; just go with blacktop and then seal it once it’s fully set.
🙏
It would make a good stepping stone if the quality is good enough and then use it as a secondary building or phase it out over time.
Definitely
Looks good put stripps down each side tin panels, use the cover as insulation base ?
That’s what I was thinking
could possibly upgrade to sheathing the whole thing in corrugated roofing metal, but that frame wouldn't handle the weight of being sheathed in plywood. Lateral braces would need to be replaced from those little poles. If ends/doors are open, potential uplift from wind might require upgraded anchors to the concrete pads with rigid sheathing.
I was going to just run 2x4’s for screwing the pole barn steel to
I think it's great now you can do anything you want because you saved so much money. I wouldn't mind having something like that, for my personal building mine is way too small.
Thanks 😃
I got a slightly smaller building from the auction. My question is, did you apply for a building permit, since that is actually not a permanent building? Second question is, could you please share what dimensions you’re concrete footers are?
I didn’t have to get a permit because the county I’m in told me it’s considered a temporary building. I made my footers 20”x20” so I had plenty of extra wiggle room on the pad to line everything up. Thanks for the view.
How survival do you figure it is in a strong storm? Do you think it will hold up to a tornado, or, will you be picking up the pieces in Nebraska or Kansas?
There has actually been a tornado come right through here about three blocks away and some of the strongest winds I’ve ever seen in the building has held up good so far
FYI they will never blacktop inside a bldg...it needs direct sunlight to cure right so that'll be out.....also how you planning on maintaining lvl for your CNC machines on gravel??
I’m either going to put concrete pads underneath my CNC machines or something like that
You could always skin it in metal sheeting and make it permanent.
That’s my plan next year. Right now I just finished putting a vapor barrier inside and started moving some machines and finally!
Wow I'd love to get one and fix up an automotive shop for my projects.
You could do it!
absolutely great utility
Thanks 🙏
Looks great nice job..
Thanks
I've never had luck with fabric buildings. They disintegrate after a couple years. As long as you can buy another cover when you need it.
If it gets me through until next summer I plan on skinning it like a pole barn 🤞
What are ya gonna do for conditioning heat air humidity? how you gonna combat rust? guess it depends on your climate though
Already ran hvac and put a vapor barrier inside. No rust yet.
always enjoy watching your videos man, gives me a huge sense of inspiration and hope that I can someday do something similar without going into debt
Thanks man !
Could you post the brand of your building. I love it
Thanks. It’s a hills industrial
I wonder if you can sheath the outside with a lightweight material. I just worry about protecting the expensive equipment inside from weather. Insurance is slow to deal with and a pain. Biggest problem is downtime and losing customers in the process. Just a thought.
In the video I said my plan was to do just that 😃 thanks for the view!
Question would be was the light expectancy of the cover and can you buy the replacement if need to. What is the total weight in case I want to ship it from point a to B? Please reply. sorry just read what I type now and I made a mistake. A question was what would be the life expectancy of a cover?.😊 this is the third time the question was what was the life expectancy of the fabric cover for that building thank you
It says 10 years in the instructions
Love it! I'm right down the road from Richie Bros Houston, gotta get me one! btw: you just popped up in my feed, subscribed!
Nice man. I definitely wouldn’t hesitate to pick one up!! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I love it! That’s great. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
one day you could just sheet metal right over the fabric and itll act as a vapour barrier (maybe)
That’s what I was thinking too
Hell of a deal add metal all over. Great job
Thanks i
it's a good start to your dream! Keep it up! Love it!
Thank you so much!!
How long will that Tent Material Tolerate the Weather with out Leaking or just ripping in the wind and falling apart due to Sun Damage or Timing Out? I think You better Buy a whole Pallet of Tire or Water Bed Patch Kits.
So far so good 🤷🏻♂️
Thats actually pretty sweet - thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!🙏
This is Great Building For the Price Size is pretty Big
Thanks 🙏
Hills Industrial is that the name of the fabric or just a name for the building.
Who is making it and where is it made? I guess its a Chine made.... hoping Im wrong.
Yes it’s made in china im pretty sure
Fuuuuudge. That looks badass
Thanks 🙏
😅This is Amazing. Here is what my mind is thinking. You know those hippies in the desert that build their „homesteads“ efficient, green, liberal lives? Ive seen sprayfoam around a blownup large balloon and then cement over that and more. I know it sounds insane but I am wondering if you could pressurize the thing with air and then spray it with that amazing foam and then do whatever. This thing
I’m sure you could probably do that
I do the carports with metal studs and T1 11
Nice
Love it I'm trying to break out of a cycle I hate spending major amounts of money for an apartment I do not want to rent a expensive three-bedroom house so I can have a two car garage.
I'm trying to break the cycle I would love to get a deal with a farmer who will let me have a little bit of land to do this.
It’s working good for me so far
I mean, if you are worried about dust, maybe lay plywood and tape the meeting parts. But for under $5k, can beat that!
That’s a great idea. Thanks!
Skunk works started in a circus tent. Keep going man! Congrats! Just make sure you have an emergency patch system incase you get a hole/tear.
Thanks! Will do!
In the military, specifically in Iraq, we had inflatable clam shells... in other words a very large tent big enough to hold helicopters.
Im not sure the price point.
However...
Ive also seen a play on the inflatable structures where people spray the outside with concrete. Add chicken wire and spray again.
Then remove the inflatable.
That’s a good idea !
The deal with the inflatable is is that there is positive pressure extending an all directions so that when you do apply layer on the outer side it has the resistance that won't work with this style of easy up building
@lyleg.9192
Agreed.
It will have to be some type of dome type shape that allows for self support.
Good point
Question... how did you get the frames up? You skipped that part of the build. Did you use a crane?
It happened quick in the video but if you go to 4:10 you can see us using my skid steer to pull the first two pieces of frame up. Thanks for the view
A lot to say here. I bought a tent garage from harbor freight. Wind took it out in a year. I have seen tent buildings in horse show environment last but the material is more stout than what you have there. I hope it lasts. I do know though it is temporary. So plan to fix in the future or your tools will have rain on them. So save what you can as you get jobs done to fix building.
I’m not sure how thick the tent garage fabric from harbor freight is but this stuff if 22 mil thick
Where'd the steel come from? Good quality steel?
I’m pretty sure it was made in China, like everything else lol
@@prestigemanufacturingkyyou can always take a section of it and place it under a hydraulic press that has the digital readout and so has it slowly starts to come down on it and then when it starts to deform, stop the press that will give you a little idea of the weight or pounds per square inch it will handle. I don't think you have any square tube or 90 degree frame sections. I think it's all Cylindrical tubing so you want to make sure that the thickness is a minimum of 3/16 preferably 1/4 inch or thicker. Those tubes aren't hard to bend/collapse given the right force/impact+load+shear direction(s).
Good idea
4" PVC or corrugated pipe cut 6" deep placed inside & covered with gravel would save you thousands over those memory things! 💯
Great tip!
@prestigemanufacturing2611 well I over shot your video. I was thinking those hook together plastic forms that people fill with rock to make a road, but that was moisture barrier in the video. Both work for that project. The plastic forms would be for heavy items, RV's, trucks, equipment. Hold tons of weight & strong like concrete.
Hows it handle high wind
So far so good
I’m sorry but this looks rather flimsy. It’s basically a large tent. Seems a storm will rip this place up. Good thing we don’t have strong storms in the U.S. right? It’s cheap now, but when this place is blown down and all your expensive machines get rained on and blown all over the place would it be worth it?
😂
@@prestigemanufacturingky I am kinda concerned with the commenter. Hopefully you don't live where the winds get fast or you have heavy snowfall as my friend built something similar and they material didnt last long under the weight. Wishing you the best with the build though hopefully it's not a problem.
@@prestigemanufacturingky I paused to comment in the last 30 seconds then heard your plan for the roofing, I think that's a great idea nevermind my original comment sorry LOL
@@nickw4898 thanks for the advice and the view 🙏
These make great (in stages) buildings.... bought two from temu last yr and did the same...ITS CALLED WORKING WITH WHAT YOU HAVE!!!SAME PRINCIPLES THAT MADE AMERICA TO START WITH.🤯🇺🇲💯GIVE,EM HELL BROTHER👍💯🇺🇲
A lot of these buildings are available on government surplus websites.
Thanks. I never looked there
you could always just spray foam over the skin. 2 or 3 inches of foam will turn a tarp structure into something with decent strength and insulation value.
Thanks for the suggestion. I was actually thinking about that from some other comments.
@@prestigemanufacturingky I built an admittedly fairly primitive hunting cabin by just foaming over a tarp teepee with about 4 inches of foam, then spraying on a thick coat of rubberized roof sealer. It's still intact fifteen years later.
It's tough to justify the expense when the building was so cheap. I paid $2000 for my 20'x33' building just like this one. The guys I got bids from wanted $5-6000 to spray it. I had no idea it was that expensive.
NICE! Do you have a general total cost estimate for the build?
I’d say electrical and everything around 6k
@prestigemanufacturingky WOW! That is amazing! We are looking at building a horse barn and this my be a great solution. Thanks again! Great video.
Thanks for watching!
You could put a woodstove and build a house inside that !
Absolutely!
Looks easy to turn into a barndominium. I like it.
Thanks 🙏
Love it and need one too! Thanks bro
Thanks for the view 🙏
Dude TH-cam keeps shadow banning your content and i am subscribed. I love your videos, why why why?
😱 well I’m glad you found the video anyway!
Money
If I am look for a building like this what is it called?
Peaked roof Fabric building
Also called Fabric Tension Buidlings
I think this would work really well with spray foam
I thought about that
How will you keep the tweekers out?
I’ll find a way 😂
Awesome. Ill be looking for one myself now. You da man!
🙏🙏
Overgrown tent?
🤷🏻♂️
Structual corrugated steel panels are much lighter those trusses can't handle the weight of wood the price is the same
You don’t think the frame would be able to handle 1 by 2 inch furring strips just to attach the corrugated steel? The frame is pretty thick and seems pretty strong.
@prestigemanufacturing2611 probably can but its not needed if you go with commercial structural paneling you would leave the plastic on as your vapor barrier as well
Thanks. I’ll definitely check that out when I’m closer to the time
Very nice!
Thanks
I hope you have put in a unground drainage system for water run-off, property run-off. To prevent erosion, footers from settling and future settling/ movement, underground erosion. You cut into a hillside and definitely not at the highest elevation. You'll have water run-off toward your building, from your building and trapped around your building. Better figure 8"D pipes towards the lowest point of the property that flows into the natural water drainage or improved drainage system. That buildings rainfall is along both sides of the building, to prevent foundation integrity. Soil can take weather, run-off weather, soak up weather and dry-up/dry-out at a normal rate. All soils are different and might require more/less depending on the soil, natural run-off, rainfall in your area and if you've done anything to change that. That clay dirt will be a greasy mess of a parking lot(2"-4" rock-4"-6"D, 3/4" rock 2"-4"D), around entire building to the county road or Hwy. only after your drainage system front, rear down both sides of the building to solid underground drainage lines at least for 20', before any perforated underground pipe is used in your drainage system. To preserve a building you have to secure the foundations integrity. Any rain, run-off, run-off produced by the structure itself needs to be kept away or moved away from the foundation asap(0-20 feet, 360 degrees of the foundation or footers). You can transition to a perforated drainage pipe after 20', I'd go a little more if it was me or not at all. This something most people don't think about, even the pros(they don't figure for enough drainage.). "You have to have to much, to have enough." You have acre of land, it's 209', 229' square, 1" deep of water on an acre is 27,000gals.. You have 2-3ac. of ground you excavated for this building. That ground needs to dry in a few days. Ground can't dry with standing water on it, you have to get rid of it, Sun, slope or drains(all 3.). 1"D water/per ac.= 27,000gals., 2ac. 1" water = (54,000gals.), 3ac. 1"water =(81,000gals.). A 3 acre property has to get rid of 81,,000gals. of water, for every inch of rain it receives. Then you have to consider how many acres of land is higher than your 3ac., it's rain runs towards your 3ac. and you have to get rid of that water too. You might not get 100% of that water, you better figure on it. The alternative costs a lot more when the time comes, then it will cost you if plan for it now. Before gravel, asphalt, and digging it all up and putting it back down. Blessings be upon ther
Thanks. I put in a 5’ deep drain around the building
You could spray it wilt Styrofoam and spray stucco over it. Thats how they build those geo dome houses.
I saw a couple videos on that. It looks cool
how durable is that fabric?
Well, a tornado came through my neighborhood, literally a block from the building and we’ve had some of the worst wind I’ve ever seen and there’s not so much as a pinhole in it. I’ve seen demos where they pick up whole pick up trucks with this fabric.
how long it will last under the sun?
It’s rated for 10 years but I plan on skinning it with pole barn metal next year so hopefully I’ll never find out lol
How will you level your machines? And keep them level?
Steel plates under the feet. I packed the ground and it’s hard as concrete so they shouldn’t sink.
Is this is temporary while you build something with solid walls?
I’m going to use the frame and put sheet metal on it like a pole barn
Where did you buy the building?
I say at the end of the
How long is the cover warrantied for?
It says 10 years but it’s from China so you can take that for what it’s worth 😂
Looks nice, and nice job but! that wont last 2 years before rips start happening, once its ripped then leaks, and damage! Hope im wrong but fabric especially out in the sun, just will not last, neither does plastic, and what about the rats mice and vermin? critters like that can do real damage! anyway thats my 2 cents hope im wrong good luck
Like I was saying in the video I plan on skinning it like a pole barn next year so hopefully it gets me through till then
@@prestigemanufacturingky Just saying good luck
Thanks I appreciate it 🙏
Does it comply with building codes?
Where I’m at it does
👍 awesome
Thanks