วีดีโอ

Thanks for the info and lesson.

Do not put your faith in "engineers squares" either. As a retired aircraft engineer, I now have several engineers squares which I have checked against each other and have found them all different and not square. I am now looking at getting a reference square (grade AA) to use as a master square to check all my other shares against in the hope of getting the accuracy I am looking for. Good luck. I

Sand the bench, it looks groose

love your vids, mate. you talk so much sense, and it's a real skill to be so expert in something and still be able to explain it so clearly to talentless duffers like me.

I like your 'halves' exercise. That's something I'm going to try as a warm-up next time I need to cut joinery.

Thanks for your time and your vidéo !!!

Nice work Luke. Really shows the dedication of the hand tool woodworker

Great work Luke. It is definitely good to see what tools folks USE as opposed to just own 😅 Oh and check out Pica for mechanical pencils and markers

Yeah mats are problematic in any shop with moving parts like workbench or rolling tools, plus as you said, they make cleaning tough. Comfy boots the way to go!

I've been exclusive on sketch up since early days but finally downloaded Fusion the other day. For simple things a post it note usually suffixes 😅

Great video thanks, just starting out doing a furniture reno and not sure what the wood is I am working with this dresser can I send a photo of the grain please? Cheers Bill

Finally, when I was young I stripped a prized purple cabinet of strange wood with an bunch of Birds Eye maple, I mixed 96% grain alcohol and lacquer thinner, then let it dry, then sealed and equaled the grain for a level sealing field I sealed with shellac and grain alcohol, then sealing it was stunning and all grain took the prize, soft and hard was vivid, I haven’t decorated in 30:years +.

Thank you Nice jig

Yes, I have the trend jig and does not give me the results I’m looking for.

I've wanted to make one but would always put it on the backburner and forget. The vitamin bottle idea is very good. Finally I can justify my saving of all the little plastic containers and just chop the top off one and make one now instead of waiting for another can and forgetting again, thank you.

Thanks for the motivation

Good exercises, well demonstrated. If you want to convince someone that gripping too hard leads to inaccuracy try this: hold a pencil or pen loosely in your fist as near to vertical as you can then tighten your fist and see what happens to the alignment of the pencil.

Thanks

Please keep on with your videos, you are one of the best in the trade, belive me!

Just following a line is tricky enough for most people, especially me. Can't remember who it was, but they recalled running a week long joinery course and spent the first day following lines with handsaws. He said people complained the whole day, but by the end of the week, they were thankful for being able to cut straight from muscle memory.

I found this video to be very helpful. Even though I use shellac occasionally, I never truly understood it. Actually the whole world of finishing is somewhat a mystery to me and that is why I tend to finish with environmental safe products. I particularly like a soap finish. Have you tried or can you suggest any other environmentally safe finishing products? Thank you for sharing.

Good advice and is exactly what I do from time to time, especially if using a new saw. It will certainly help anyone having trouble. Something I find helps me is once the square across cut has been made, I watch the line a short distance in front of the cut, basically looking for destination rather than moment (if that makes any sense :)) This isn't related to technique but if a saw bites too hard at the beginning of a cut, the first few teeth can be gently filed down a little. This will take off the aggressive bite. Thanks for posting the video.

Aside from measuring the angle with a square/etc, how would you tell that a saw is set too much to one side vs you just consistently sawing off plumb?

Links Related to Hand Saw Sharpening: + No Faff Sharpening: Sharpen Your Cross Cut Hand Saw in Minutes! - th-cam.com/video/-24BOWTAtJA/w-d-xo.html + Re-profiling a Cross Cut Handsaw into a Rip Cut - th-cam.com/video/kNMBQoLILNU/w-d-xo.html + The Ultimate Guide to Hand Saw SET - th-cam.com/video/Yg3yWeRuKc8/w-d-xo.html + Quickest Way to TRANSFORM a New Handsaw - th-cam.com/video/c8KfplfXv-s/w-d-xo.html + How to Set a Hand Saw With a Hammer and Punch - th-cam.com/video/UyVQn4FYa2g/w-d-xo.html

I have thin commercial grade ones around my bench but none near any of my machines. I have had different ones over 30 years and i like them because they are tool savers but i'm not sure if they help reduce fatigue.

Good to hear this in Australian! Why can’t the American TH-camrs just say Metho! Nice and simple, thanks.

I grind my shellac with a spice grinder I got at a yard sale. Dissolves much quicker that way.

In Texas, we can buy 190 proof Everclear, and it works very good. For me the biggest upside of a grain alcohol is it is nontoxic whereas a lot of denatured alcohols contain some methanol and is harmful. I was a plant operator at a cryogenic gas plant and we occasionally had to inject methanol to help breakup ice inside our lines. We were supposed to wear chemical-proof gloves if we ever had to come in contact with the methanol.

Could discuss the shelf life of blonde compared to the richer coloured shellac flakes. Blonde has a limited shelf life.

I have both back saws and they are great once you reduce the set and sharpen them. Before you do anything, though, make a rip cut in the end of a board and count your strokes 'til it bottoms out. After you fix the set and sharpen do the same. This way you can see what a difference it makes. Real sense of accomplishment.

Don't buy Sharpal ... it is made in China !!!

You are a true master !!! Thank you and greetings from Germany

Nice job. I really enjoy your videos.

Beautiful workmanship! You are a real craftsman! I think that you should treat yourself to some self centering drill bits. I like the Vix brand bits. I think they are the original ones and the best, but there are also knockoff copies. John Jensen from British Columbia

Hi Luke, I have a few questions. 1). How would you do this when the width of a groove should be 20 mm, the depth also 20 mm and the length of the groove 165 cm? Is that still possible by hand? 2). And how can I get the inner sides very smooth? I guess cutting it a very little too narrow and afterwards use a paring chisel using for the final fine work? And finally 3). Could I also make the bottom smooth? If yes, how?

I find it's best to drill all of the holes, in both the door and the frame, before driving any screws. You get a more accurate positioning when the hinge isn't constrained. Also, I prefer to use a sharp knife to get the lines down to depth before chiseling out the waste. And there's no sin in applying a bit of epoxy on the skinny bit you want to keep, especially in a splintery wood. Firm it up and then chip out the waste. Final thought: if you secure the hinges to the door first, you can then use a hand screw clamp to hold it vertical while driving the screws into the frame.

You are trying to teach others with limited skills the door when you was chiseling was bouncing making hard working should been on the bench top ,

As a bench joiner i would advise you to have practice on scrap wood do hinge recess 30 times untill your skills improve, thats the way us professional woodworkers do it you need to practise practise more more

Nice, that looked like a no fuss install. I've made a few M&T doors, so no great expert. For the top hinge I go with the technique of lining up the top of it with the bottom edge of the cross rail (reversed for the bottom hinge). I got that from a Paul Sellers post, so no credit to me. The positioning reduces timber flex in the stile which makes sense, but I guess your Jarrah isn't going to be any problem. When I was working, I had the opportunity to see many old, heavy, and beautifully crafted boxes. It surprised me to see that sometimes the hinge to carcase recesses just continued through with no back edge. Maybe a question of exection speed? Thanks for posting the video. Your mitered Jarrah and Tasmanian Oak frame against the ply creates a feeling of depth and dimension. Looks good!

Thanks for sharing!

I know you swore against the router plane, but a few times there, it would have been quicker and more accurate.

Nice work. I have seen videos from David Charlesworth and Paul Sellers where they suggest taking out the bulk of the waste before chiselling up to the knife line as a way of preventing the blowout that you got in the Tassie Oak. The basic idea is that there is less "push back" on the bevel of the chisel once the majority of the waste has been removed. The were talking about mortices for tenons, but I have found that the same technique works well on hinge mortices as well. Nice explanation nonetheless and keep up the good work.

Excellent results! Thanks for the video!esults! T

I mark and recess my hinges the same way, only thing I do different is deepen the lines with a knife instead of a chisel, though not always easy to do depending on the grain or the lack space to place a straight edge. Only other thing I would suggest is clamping a scrap behind the hinge location to consolidate the back fibers and help with blow out when chiseling? Looked like the cabinet shelf was in the way for you though. Made a small wall cabinet with an inset door and had to recess the hinges so deep because of the bloody gap between the hinge wings, okay for a shop build but forget fine furniture, can't find anything decent at bunnings lol. Anyway, enjoyed the build and looks great. Look forward to the next one.