1:05 Staedtler 2H is my go-to because I can sharpen it to a wide chisel point, which does two things. Instead of striking a line with a knife and then filling that line in with a pencil, a 2H lead pencil sharpened like a chisel is so sharp it can both act as the knife and darken the cut at the same time, saving me a step
Robert Sorby saws are good too and worth grabbing if they are around, I've got a few Distons and the Sorby is pretty much on par, the Atkins is very good too (I cant tell exactly as the TPI is set different than the other crosscuts I have).
Good video. Cordless drills are great, they're effective, completely portable, and quiet. Some hand tool purists may buck at them, but they fit right into my way of working. You did leave off a mallet, and sharpening stones, but you got about every other essential. If you ever see a used farrier's file/rasp that's in good shape, buy it. You'll like the rasp even though it's not hand stitched. And on that subject, I'm surprised that no manufacturer doesn't make a machine made rasp with teeth that are not equally spaced. It can't be that hard to make a machine that cuts teeth in an irregular pattern.
@@deezynar Oops, you're right i did forget a mallet and sharpening stones. Thanks for the tip on Ferrier's rasps. Im surprised too that a random pattern machined rasp hasn't been made, I'm sure it's possible.
Other local Australian vintage planes are Carters (I have a scrub and a carriage plane from them, I might have a number 4 as well they're pretty decent) and Turner (they have the red translucent resin handles which might put people off but I love my number 4 Turner and its my go to smoothing plane out of a cadre of stanleys, records, marples, falcon pope and woden that I have kicking around). Theres probably a few more makers I havent mentioned.
I love the fine tooth gents saw for cutting dovetails in Jarrah, much easier to start (I find a bit too much skipping on a 14tpi saw even when freshly sharpened) and it cuts quick enough once in. I've only sharpened mine a few times (I only use it for the one purpose) would love to see how you go about sharpening them.
@@nurgle11 It's always nice to have a fine tooth saw around, for me i tend to use it on small piece i have to cut. I will add a sharpening video to the list.
Some of those metal rulers, like Kraft, has inches to mm conversion table on the back. It's nice to have around the shop or garage, even if you're not a woodworker. But ofc, it's a tradeoff, then it is not double sided.
I'd really like to see the video comparing the Melbourne spokeshave to others. I've been considering picking up some of the Melbournes. I'm curious about their cabinet scraper too.
I have a variety of Pentel mechanical pencils. A 0.5 for following a knife line and everything else is 0.9 because I always break the 0.7 lead. Thick lines are ok because I use a knife when I want to be accurate.
What he said, plus 1 for the 0.9 Pental. Recently bought 2B refills which takes it up a notch. I also like the Pica pencil for convenience, and have a couple of German mechanical pencils that have wax crayon refills that are great for dark timbers, steel, etc.
When you get around to reviewing that Luban low angle plane, could you maybe show how it compares to a regular #4 type bevel down plane when used on a shooting board?
The hook on a tape measure is supposed to move. It moves the exact width of the hook so you get a precise measurement both when measuring outside and inside.
@@AussieWoodshed Well, I meant other tape measures, of course. They don't move because they are cheap, was my point. I haven't tried one like yours. Sounds interesting.
I have a Staedtler Mars Technico mechanical pencil that I use for sketching and plan drawings only - not for marking out work, though it would be good for that too. As for local brand planes, in UK I bought an Axminster-Rider #5 a few years ago. It doesn't have kidney bean capture feature (so I find the iron tends to gradually slip when retracting) - but is otherwise excellent in every way. I bought it when they were competitively priced and I used to recommend them but they have now got a lot more expensive, so I'm sure there will be comparable quality out there for less money now. Regarding new tools, I bought two Swanson speed squares (large and small) a couple of years ago and I find them excellent - not just for carpentry but also in my hobby work. They are accurate and have the added advantage of angle markings and other features that come in handy. They don't look as refined as traditional squares but they are convenient and don't go out of square, even when heavily handled and dropped (as you might expect for construction tools). My cordless drill/driver is a Draper Expert model, that was actually more expensive than some other premium models when I bought it about 3 years ago - it is Draper's pro range. It has huge torque that is digitally regulated and the chuck comes off easily so you can swap between a drill bit in the chuck and a driver bit in the drive shaft quickly. Great for carpentry work and also for hobby stuff (instead of constantly swapping bits in the chuck or having two drills). I find it worth paying the extra for those added features. Battery life is phenomenal. Trying to keep things to a minimalist kit is a bit of a lost cause because there will always be another tool you need for some new project. If there is one large tool I would recommend it is a drill press (free standing or bench top), preferably hand cranked but as they are difficult to find in good condition at reasonable prices, I bought electric (made by Rutlands, UK) in one of their sale promotions.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork I appreciate the effort you went to in the comment, full of great information as always. I'm sure others will find it as useful as i have, thanks again.
I started out with the iGauging single bevel marking knife and personally I like it. The reason I mention this is that I also have the iGauging brand mortise/wheel marking gauge which I find to be pretty mediochre. It does the job, but the quality is just "ok" and the flimsy removable mortise marking wheels are annoying to work with. In hindsight I could have spent just a bit more and got one of the Luban ones.
Thanks for posting the video and links, appreciate the fine effort you put in! I might add that often tools are advertised as superior quality, the ultimate, etc, and you pay a premium for items that are often no better and sometimes worse than similar items at far lower prices. I'm not sure the extent of this, but many US branded items only have their warehouses or distribution located there and opt to import their stock. I only have 3 metal squares. One was my fathers which would have to be 60 years old at the very least (only says Swedish standard on blade), another I purchased probably 40 years ago (Diamond brand made in China), and a combination square I bought maybe 2 years ago which is the Empire brand from the local Bunnings store. All 3 are accurate. The Empire is about half the price of the iGaging one and is only aluminium body v's cast iron on the iGaging product, but it's accurate with a decent locking nut and good in the hand. I recently completed a new workbench and purchased an expensive rapid action vice advertised as "the mother of all woodworking vices". If you google that you'll find the brand. The release/locking nut didn't last making a stool for my grandchild and had to complete the project on the old workbench with a $90 QR vice that works a treat. The vice did come with an extra nut to turn it into a continual action vice, no wonder as the manufacture of the failed brass nut insert is very poor. On inspection it was only engaging some millimetres the first few threads. With the spare nut installed, the wind out operation is very rough because there was originally no need to have a smooth surface of engagement. Disappointing as I made a huge space in the apron to accommodate the vice and fear it'll just end up a boat anchor! Sorry for ranting and the long post, but I just wanted to illustrate to anyone reading that you don't always "get what you pay for" and I have many other examples but will spare everyone😄 Sometimes the old or cheaper items without the advertising hype shine, and it may be worth going to the store and having a good look and feel of that proposed purchase before committing the dollars.
@@edwardjarvinen3702 Ranting is fine especially when it makes a great point such as more expensive isn't always better. Also thanks for sharing your experience with these tools, I'm sure it will be helpful to everyone including myself!
@@nurgle11 Nice, I tried to find one when looking for a vice. They are well made and have a beautiful action. Did see some old Record vices, but they were in pretty bad shape and expensive! Like your Dawn vice, many of the old Australian tools were very fine quality. Have an old Falcon 9 inch plane and it's my go to. Also, the Titan chisels hold a good edge.
I purchased a Stanley 55 with cutters on ebay. The tool was a little damaged and obtained a replacement skate. However, I have never managed to get satisfactory results from it. It's just too worn. I have therefore never reach for it when doing a project. My newer Stanley plough with a plastic handle (yuk) is satisfactory, and many of the 55s blades will work with it. The fancy blades need two skates (the 55s selling point), but I have never bothered after the first aborted attempts. I will sell it on ebay when I get round to it.
That's a pity it didn't work out for you, I've never used a 55 so I'm not sure how well they work. My 45 definitely works well enough for me to keep it, but it is missing a few thumb screws which i just replaced with a bolt so i can keep using it.
1:05 Staedtler 2H is my go-to because I can sharpen it to a wide chisel point, which does two things. Instead of striking a line with a knife and then filling that line in with a pencil, a 2H lead pencil sharpened like a chisel is so sharp it can both act as the knife and darken the cut at the same time, saving me a step
@@devinteske Thanks for sharing your experience, very interesting
20:37 Atkin & Sons - wonderful vintage saws made from high end steel
@@devinteske Thanks for this recommendation
Robert Sorby saws are good too and worth grabbing if they are around, I've got a few Distons and the Sorby is pretty much on par, the Atkins is very good too (I cant tell exactly as the TPI is set different than the other crosscuts I have).
@nurgle11 Thanks. I wasn't aware Robert Sorby made saws i have a few other Robert Sorby tools, always good quality. Thanks for sharing this
Good video.
Cordless drills are great, they're effective, completely portable, and quiet.
Some hand tool purists may buck at them, but they fit right into my way of working.
You did leave off a mallet, and sharpening stones, but you got about every other essential.
If you ever see a used farrier's file/rasp that's in good shape, buy it. You'll like the rasp even though it's not hand stitched. And on that subject, I'm surprised that no manufacturer doesn't make a machine made rasp with teeth that are not equally spaced. It can't be that hard to make a machine that cuts teeth in an irregular pattern.
@@deezynar Oops, you're right i did forget a mallet and sharpening stones.
Thanks for the tip on Ferrier's rasps. Im surprised too that a random pattern machined rasp hasn't been made, I'm sure it's possible.
Other local Australian vintage planes are Carters (I have a scrub and a carriage plane from them, I might have a number 4 as well they're pretty decent) and Turner (they have the red translucent resin handles which might put people off but I love my number 4 Turner and its my go to smoothing plane out of a cadre of stanleys, records, marples, falcon pope and woden that I have kicking around). Theres probably a few more makers I havent mentioned.
@@nurgle11 Thanks for mentioning the other Australian plane makers, i think you got most of them.
I love the fine tooth gents saw for cutting dovetails in Jarrah, much easier to start (I find a bit too much skipping on a 14tpi saw even when freshly sharpened) and it cuts quick enough once in. I've only sharpened mine a few times (I only use it for the one purpose) would love to see how you go about sharpening them.
@@nurgle11 It's always nice to have a fine tooth saw around, for me i tend to use it on small piece i have to cut. I will add a sharpening video to the list.
Thanks - great video! Good practical info🎉
@@MrEbbAndFlow Thanks glad to hear it
Well done great job always enjoy very informative
@@philipchandler330 Thanks
A Shinto rasp! I also have a number of Narex rasps. They are quite good. But the Shinto is awesome!
@@thomashverring9484 Thanks sounds like great additions to the tool kit
Some of those metal rulers, like Kraft, has inches to mm conversion table on the back. It's nice to have around the shop or garage, even if you're not a woodworker.
But ofc, it's a tradeoff, then it is not double sided.
@@kimmosaarinen2780 Definitely a personal preference, but a conversation table does sound like a good idea. Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks mate.
@@brucecomerford My pleasure
I'd really like to see the video comparing the Melbourne spokeshave to others. I've been considering picking up some of the Melbournes. I'm curious about their cabinet scraper too.
@@MortimerSugarloaf Thanks ill definitely look into making these videos
I have a variety of Pentel mechanical pencils. A 0.5 for following a knife line and everything else is 0.9 because I always break the 0.7 lead. Thick lines are ok because I use a knife when I want to be accurate.
@@TomBuskey Thanks for sharing this with everyone, i really appreciate your input.
What he said, plus 1 for the 0.9 Pental. Recently bought 2B refills which takes it up a notch.
I also like the Pica pencil for convenience, and have a couple of German mechanical pencils that have wax crayon refills that are great for dark timbers, steel, etc.
@@anthonyseiver7000 Thanks for adding to this im learning lots on which mechanical pencil i should try when i get around to it.
When you get around to reviewing that Luban low angle plane, could you maybe show how it compares to a regular #4 type bevel down plane when used on a shooting board?
@@Reptilia12 Sure i can do that
The hook on a tape measure is supposed to move. It moves the exact width of the hook so you get a precise measurement both when measuring outside and inside.
@@thomashverring9484 This tape measure is a flat backed one and is not designed to measure inside of anything like a construction tape
@@AussieWoodshed Well, I meant other tape measures, of course. They don't move because they are cheap, was my point. I haven't tried one like yours. Sounds interesting.
@@thomashverring9484 Yep, your absolutely correct
I have a Staedtler Mars Technico mechanical pencil that I use for sketching and plan drawings only - not for marking out work, though it would be good for that too.
As for local brand planes, in UK I bought an Axminster-Rider #5 a few years ago. It doesn't have kidney bean capture feature (so I find the iron tends to gradually slip when retracting) - but is otherwise excellent in every way. I bought it when they were competitively priced and I used to recommend them but they have now got a lot more expensive, so I'm sure there will be comparable quality out there for less money now.
Regarding new tools, I bought two Swanson speed squares (large and small) a couple of years ago and I find them excellent - not just for carpentry but also in my hobby work. They are accurate and have the added advantage of angle markings and other features that come in handy. They don't look as refined as traditional squares but they are convenient and don't go out of square, even when heavily handled and dropped (as you might expect for construction tools).
My cordless drill/driver is a Draper Expert model, that was actually more expensive than some other premium models when I bought it about 3 years ago - it is Draper's pro range. It has huge torque that is digitally regulated and the chuck comes off easily so you can swap between a drill bit in the chuck and a driver bit in the drive shaft quickly. Great for carpentry work and also for hobby stuff (instead of constantly swapping bits in the chuck or having two drills). I find it worth paying the extra for those added features. Battery life is phenomenal.
Trying to keep things to a minimalist kit is a bit of a lost cause because there will always be another tool you need for some new project.
If there is one large tool I would recommend it is a drill press (free standing or bench top), preferably hand cranked but as they are difficult to find in good condition at reasonable prices, I bought electric (made by Rutlands, UK) in one of their sale promotions.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork I appreciate the effort you went to in the comment, full of great information as always. I'm sure others will find it as useful as i have, thanks again.
I started out with the iGauging single bevel marking knife and personally I like it. The reason I mention this is that I also have the iGauging brand mortise/wheel marking gauge which I find to be pretty mediochre. It does the job, but the quality is just "ok" and the flimsy removable mortise marking wheels are annoying to work with. In hindsight I could have spent just a bit more and got one of the Luban ones.
@@Reptilia12 Thanks for sharing your experience with these tools. Much appreciated
Thanks for posting the video and links, appreciate the fine effort you put in!
I might add that often tools are advertised as superior quality, the ultimate, etc, and you pay a premium for items that are often no better and sometimes worse than similar items at far lower prices. I'm not sure the extent of this, but many US branded items only have their warehouses or distribution located there and opt to import their stock.
I only have 3 metal squares. One was my fathers which would have to be 60 years old at the very least (only says Swedish standard on blade), another I purchased probably 40 years ago (Diamond brand made in China), and a combination square I bought maybe 2 years ago which is the Empire brand from the local Bunnings store. All 3 are accurate. The Empire is about half the price of the iGaging one and is only aluminium body v's cast iron on the iGaging product, but it's accurate with a decent locking nut and good in the hand.
I recently completed a new workbench and purchased an expensive rapid action vice advertised as "the mother of all woodworking vices". If you google that you'll find the brand. The release/locking nut didn't last making a stool for my grandchild and had to complete the project on the old workbench with a $90 QR vice that works a treat. The vice did come with an extra nut to turn it into a continual action vice, no wonder as the manufacture of the failed brass nut insert is very poor. On inspection it was only engaging some millimetres the first few threads. With the spare nut installed, the wind out operation is very rough because there was originally no need to have a smooth surface of engagement. Disappointing as I made a huge space in the apron to accommodate the vice and fear it'll just end up a boat anchor!
Sorry for ranting and the long post, but I just wanted to illustrate to anyone reading that you don't always "get what you pay for" and I have many other examples but will spare everyone😄 Sometimes the old or cheaper items without the advertising hype shine, and it may be worth going to the store and having a good look and feel of that proposed purchase before committing the dollars.
@@edwardjarvinen3702 Ranting is fine especially when it makes a great point such as more expensive isn't always better. Also thanks for sharing your experience with these tools, I'm sure it will be helpful to everyone including myself!
yep going to stick with my old Dawn QR 10" vice for now.
@nurgle11 I don't own a Dawn but have seen a few, they look really well built
@@nurgle11 Nice, I tried to find one when looking for a vice. They are well made and have a beautiful action. Did see some old Record vices, but they were in pretty bad shape and expensive!
Like your Dawn vice, many of the old Australian tools were very fine quality. Have an old Falcon 9 inch plane and it's my go to. Also, the Titan chisels hold a good edge.
Awesome! Thanks for doing this!
@@iwu2011 My pleasure
Nice video
@@SleepLessThan3 Thanks
I purchased a Stanley 55 with cutters on ebay. The tool was a little damaged and obtained a replacement skate. However, I have never managed to get satisfactory results from it. It's just too worn. I have therefore never reach for it when doing a project. My newer Stanley plough with a plastic handle (yuk) is satisfactory, and many of the 55s blades will work with it. The fancy blades need two skates (the 55s selling point), but I have never bothered after the first aborted attempts. I will sell it on ebay when I get round to it.
That's a pity it didn't work out for you, I've never used a 55 so I'm not sure how well they work. My 45 definitely works well enough for me to keep it, but it is missing a few thumb screws which i just replaced with a bolt so i can keep using it.
Review the Melbourne tool company please!
@@Allthingsunderwater I will look into it
@@AussieWoodshed that spokeshave looks pretty nice so seconding that.
@nurgle11 Okay no worries ill work on it.
How many years have you been a woodworker?
@@Nyro254 About 10 yrs doing hand tool only woodworking, and on and off doing odd working projects before that.
I know which of your tools id like a go at
@@merikatools568 Which one?