Nice work. I have seen videos from David Charlesworth and Paul Sellers where they suggest taking out the bulk of the waste before chiselling up to the knife line as a way of preventing the blowout that you got in the Tassie Oak. The basic idea is that there is less "push back" on the bevel of the chisel once the majority of the waste has been removed. The were talking about mortices for tenons, but I have found that the same technique works well on hinge mortices as well. Nice explanation nonetheless and keep up the good work.
I'm always interested in seeing other people's techniques for fitting hinges. I mark my hinge positions slightly differently to you. I place the hinge then slide a square up to it, remove the hinge and mark using the square, so that the bruising is inside the waste area. It makes for a tight fit, often too tight - and that's what I prefer to begin with. Start tight and nibble away to a snug fit. In my early years, I habitually set hinges too deep and the door would bind; I had to rectify this error over and over again. It didn't look good when working on site. Removing a door and gluing shavings into the frame recess became so frequent that I had to re-educate myself. A small gap is better than binding - and allows for swelling or future layers of paint. Hinges aside, the door fitted makes the cabinet look like a 3D puzzle - I like it...!
I was going to make a similar comment about the knife line bruising the show side of the door but you beat me too it 😀 I do it the same way for the reason you mentioned.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork I find there is usually one small thing to learn watching others in the woodworking space with most processes. I hadn't considered the bruising from the way i mark the hinges so thanks for mentioning that. I didn't really have any issues with the timbers i was using here but in soft woods it would be important i think. Yes, it does look like a 3D puzzle. I'm very happy with the final result.
@@AussieWoodshed I have considered buying a small router but the ones I've seen are overpriced for what they are. I have not yet ever used a router to fit hinges but would like to. It brings me to another topic: some tools earn their cost over and over while others don't. Some of the tools that don't are priceless for that one rare time you need them when nothing else will do.
Nice, that looked like a no fuss install. I've made a few M&T doors, so no great expert. For the top hinge I go with the technique of lining up the top of it with the bottom edge of the cross rail (reversed for the bottom hinge). I got that from a Paul Sellers post, so no credit to me. The positioning reduces timber flex in the stile which makes sense, but I guess your Jarrah isn't going to be any problem. When I was working, I had the opportunity to see many old, heavy, and beautifully crafted boxes. It surprised me to see that sometimes the hinge to carcase recesses just continued through with no back edge. Maybe a question of exection speed? Thanks for posting the video. Your mitered Jarrah and Tasmanian Oak frame against the ply creates a feeling of depth and dimension. Looks good!
@@edwardjarvinen3702 Yes, it was very no fuss install one of the easiest I've done. I can definitely see the idea of having the hinges close to the cross rail especially in soft woods, but as you said there is little issues with Jarrah. Thanks for sharing this tid bit of information as i hadn't thought of that before.
As a bench joiner i would advise you to have practice on scrap wood do hinge recess 30 times untill your skills improve, thats the way us professional woodworkers do it you need to practise practise more more
@@petertiffney4413 Thanks for sharing this its great advice for beginners. Woodworking is always about practice to improve the fundamentals. No one is perfect even the so called 'experts'
@@petertiffney4413 One of the reasons i had it on top of the cabinet was to clearly film the work. Another reason is so i didn't have to kneel down to be closer to the work while doing fine work, but it was clamped to the cabinet and barely moving and didn't affect the work at all. Finally due to lack of space in my work I didn't want to keep moving the cabinet onto the floor. If you don't want to secure a door etc the way i did while doing hinge rebates, don't. The techniques are all the same and perfect for beginners.
Nice job. I really enjoy your videos.
@@jimmcnett Thankyou glad to hear it
Thanks for sharing!
@@מעייןהמלבלבתחייםםםם My pleasure, thanks for watching
Nice work. I have seen videos from David Charlesworth and Paul Sellers where they suggest taking out the bulk of the waste before chiselling up to the knife line as a way of preventing the blowout that you got in the Tassie Oak. The basic idea is that there is less "push back" on the bevel of the chisel once the majority of the waste has been removed. The were talking about mortices for tenons, but I have found that the same technique works well on hinge mortices as well. Nice explanation nonetheless and keep up the good work.
@@GlassonDesignStudio I think you're correct i should have done it that way, it would have worked well. Thanks for watching
I'm always interested in seeing other people's techniques for fitting hinges.
I mark my hinge positions slightly differently to you. I place the hinge then slide a square up to it, remove the hinge and mark using the square, so that the bruising is inside the waste area. It makes for a tight fit, often too tight - and that's what I prefer to begin with. Start tight and nibble away to a snug fit.
In my early years, I habitually set hinges too deep and the door would bind; I had to rectify this error over and over again. It didn't look good when working on site. Removing a door and gluing shavings into the frame recess became so frequent that I had to re-educate myself. A small gap is better than binding - and allows for swelling or future layers of paint.
Hinges aside, the door fitted makes the cabinet look like a 3D puzzle - I like it...!
I was going to make a similar comment about the knife line bruising the show side of the door but you beat me too it 😀 I do it the same way for the reason you mentioned.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork I find there is usually one small thing to learn watching others in the woodworking space with most processes.
I hadn't considered the bruising from the way i mark the hinges so thanks for mentioning that. I didn't really have any issues with the timbers i was using here but in soft woods it would be important i think.
Yes, it does look like a 3D puzzle. I'm very happy with the final result.
@@AussieWoodshed I have considered buying a small router but the ones I've seen are overpriced for what they are. I have not yet ever used a router to fit hinges but would like to.
It brings me to another topic: some tools earn their cost over and over while others don't. Some of the tools that don't are priceless for that one rare time you need them when nothing else will do.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork I'm in the same boat as you, I've looked at small router planes and they're definitely expensive for what they are.
Nice, that looked like a no fuss install.
I've made a few M&T doors, so no great expert. For the top hinge I go with the technique of lining up the top of it with the bottom edge of the cross rail (reversed for the bottom hinge). I got that from a Paul Sellers post, so no credit to me. The positioning reduces timber flex in the stile which makes sense, but I guess your Jarrah isn't going to be any problem.
When I was working, I had the opportunity to see many old, heavy, and beautifully crafted boxes. It surprised me to see that sometimes the hinge to carcase recesses just continued through with no back edge. Maybe a question of exection speed?
Thanks for posting the video. Your mitered Jarrah and Tasmanian Oak frame against the ply creates a feeling of depth and dimension. Looks good!
@@edwardjarvinen3702 Yes, it was very no fuss install one of the easiest I've done.
I can definitely see the idea of having the hinges close to the cross rail especially in soft woods, but as you said there is little issues with Jarrah. Thanks for sharing this tid bit of information as i hadn't thought of that before.
I know you swore against the router plane, but a few times there, it would have been quicker and more accurate.
@@anthonyseiver7000 In hindsight i think you're correct
As a bench joiner i would advise you to have practice on scrap wood do hinge recess 30 times untill your skills improve, thats the way us professional woodworkers do it you need to practise practise more more
@@petertiffney4413 Thanks for sharing this its great advice for beginners. Woodworking is always about practice to improve the fundamentals. No one is perfect even the so called 'experts'
You are trying to teach others with limited skills the door when you was chiseling was bouncing making hard working should been on the bench top ,
@@petertiffney4413 One of the reasons i had it on top of the cabinet was to clearly film the work.
Another reason is so i didn't have to kneel down to be closer to the work while doing fine work, but it was clamped to the cabinet and barely moving and didn't affect the work at all.
Finally due to lack of space in my work I didn't want to keep moving the cabinet onto the floor.
If you don't want to secure a door etc the way i did while doing hinge rebates, don't. The techniques are all the same and perfect for beginners.