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What was the symptoms of the car? Hard to start ? Did it start ? Or only rough idle?

Quick and easy, love it.

Simple as my arse😅

great video, makes it easy to understand and everything is done in an easy to follow manner, cheers for that.

Was original alternator equipped with freewheel? That 120A unit didn't have it? 🤔

Thank you for this video. Fixed my issue with bad starting and general responsiveness

Nicely documented

Good vid man 👌🏼 I made one of those pulley holder tools out of angle iron that you see for the ip and cam pulleys and noticed I was able to stick it through the 2 holes on the water pump pulley to torque up, worked out handy 💪🏼

Nice quick video with no waffling, thank you

Brilliant videos on the T4 Rust Repairs! I've got that job coming up, so it's great to get some hints and tips on where to save time :)

4 years later... hear watching this ... mines doing what your explaining... I'm going to try this . Thanks

i think to make this swap. have you run without problems ??? is the gearbox strong for this engine ????

From one Terry to another you might get more views if you don't have your camera on a rope as your swinging around taking video of it so no one can see what you're actually doing. Lol

Worked perfectly thanks

Tu te fais moins chier a demonter la demi ligne qui sort du moteur: 3 boulons sur le moteur, 2 boulons sur le collier, tu pousses le tube sur le côté et tu as des tonnes de places pour mettre une douille ou une clef pour démonter le filtre, et t'en met pas de partout quand ça coule !

you didnt add any salt or baking soda to the water you need an electrolyte other than the trace bits and impurities in the tap water for a more furious reaction also a limiting fuse is good otherwise the plates warm up the water and then it requires more amps to run the plates resulting in a thermal and amperage runaway.

In the words of Tommy cooper Just like that

Easy job just reach behind can see the bolts from the side at least on an opel astra a few minutes to do it

SHIT VIDEOOOOOOOOOO

I have a 2012 opel astra j 1.4 and it won't start, I wanted to ask you if when you turned it on you didn't press the pedal the yellow pedal warning light would still come on? Or vice versa if you pressed the pedal the yellow warning light would remain off? Is it true that once this sensor is replaced it needs to be recalibrated? Can you tell me the oen code for this sensor? thanks

Great trick but my filter is on top if the fire wall under the screen 😭😭

You put the filter wrong side in, the air goes through filter and then cooler, yet good video.

Wenn die Wanne von einem VW T5 stammt und das Originalgetriebe von einem T4, ist es dann notwendig, die Wanne zu schneiden und zu schweißen???

He gets a sub because I also have ADHD!

Was going to do it myself. But.. the fiddlyness of it!! Im in Leicestershire if your local? I have the egr valve cuz when i bought my Doblo 2008 1.3 the guy said I needed replacement and he had bought the part but not done it. He said he replaced the egr cooler and it seemed to work. But the problem has now come back. Engine light says its a glow plug that has failed. When i drive it the EGR fan is constantly on. Loud. Dont think my local garage will use the EGR valve i have. They only use parts they supply.

adhd is a gift bruv .especialy for petrol heads its a proper bonus 🤘

Why would EGR not be the first thing you think about

Cheers

Great help

Ah ha, the arms can be removed - thanks Terry, really helpful!

Is this on a bmn 170 engine 🤔

Mate I'm in Herne bay south east, I've got an old t4 that I love sadly It's been sitting for years , needs new panels and welding the whole sides done set and wings, if you're got any contacts down this way that won't charge the earth pet me know, last attempt before unfortunately scrapping it

Unsure if a bearing on my power steering pump has gone. Sounds like it’s rattling or could I need to change the shims round to tighten the belt ?

tyres made in china is a no-go!

Mine doesn't do anything after i turn on the ignition, i don't get "service now" any ideas 2007 FSI it looks the same dash as yours

Dose it need coding to the car

I have a vectra 1.9 2008. I took out my driveshat (passenger side) to replace the gaiter as it was ripped. After putting it back in the inner shaft keeps popping out from the gearbox when driving for no more than 6 miles. I centered the retainer clip and even whacked the shaft in and still pops out whilst driving. This happened few times now. I’m about to give up. Any advise appreciated. Thanks.

Every single bolt I have touched on my sons vw t5 was seized most had to be cut off , is this usual, ( replaced top strut mtg bearing ) can’t get ball joint back in . can’t get lower arm bolt undone. 😢

Do you not have to run diagnostic after to learn clutch ? I have a vauxhall antara with same problem but still no start with new pedal censor

Clear and well put! I searched other vids on youtube but yours was succint and did the trick! Superb.

No oil spilling out the gearbox??

Thanks for the video! But what engine is that?

Any ideas on a warning on these stating "water detected in fuel" any solutions?

There are a couple of ideas to add. There are some diesels where the DPF fails prematurely. If this happens fitting a new DPF is thousands of pounds. Some examples: The new ingenium 2.0 Land Rovers, and the for transit connect 1.5 TDCIs from around 2018 have some cheap dpf installed in a bad location and on these models the internals and the case separates or the internals or cracks and let soot pass. On older euro5 models this might not be a problem but a newer euro6 models usually do have a sensor called the particulate matter sensor that knows the dpf failed and puts the van/car into limp mode until the issue is fixed. This can be easily diagnosed with the "finger in the hole" method and if you see carbon on your finger the dpf failed on these. Generally don't do a forced static regen. Period. If the car does not do a regen by itself there is a reason for that and a forced regen will most probably fail for that reason. If the soot content is too high in the dpf the temps can go uncontrolled if it starts the process for some reason and in can crack the case, the internals or both and kills an otherwise good dpf. Does not worth the risk. If a DPF is blocked it is usually can be cleaned fairly easily, if it is cracked it is done. DPFs can do a regen wherever on modern cars when the circumstances are right. There are a couple of different systems. Ford uses a "fifth injector (evaporator that sprays myst of fuel to the exhaust to bump up the temps)" in the exhaust on some models (this can clog and regens fail. Can be cleaned or replaced), PSA/stellantis uses an additive system which doses a fluid into the fuel called the Eolys fluid which then lowers the soot burning temperature from around 900 degrees celsius to 600. The best is to let them run on the motorway for a while, but they can do a regen without issues even on tickover. If the circumstances are right and there a lot of these the cars can start the regen process when the so called differencial pressure reaches a given treshold (we are talking about millibars here). These circumstances are different on each system but includes for example oil and coolant temps relative to external temperatures (for example dead external temp meters results the car not doing regens), pressures, fuel level, oil state (if the car thinks the oil is old on japanese cars they disable the regen) so reset the oil change interval on japanese diesels religiously when you change oil). On some cars if the AC failed the regen also gets disabled because these cars disable the electric fan and that is needed for the regen. On others if glowplugs are failed (and the error code is in the Powertrain module or ECU of the failed glowplugs) regen will not kick in, etc. This is far from detailed but you get the idea. The blocked DPF is usually a result of some systems failed in the car. On some PSA models there is a countdown from new, and it reaches about 0 around 100-120k miles, where the cars says the dpf is at it's end of life and needs a replacement and also stops the regen. Around the same time the factory fill of Eolys in the eolys tank runs dry too, so there are a couple of things to check, clean and fill, etc. On Renault models the inlet turbo pressure sensor pipe can clog up and bad readings can confuse the ecu which also disables regen, and so on. Fix the issue that causes the blockage and do a dpf clean you can easily do with the DPF in the car. The two thin metal pipes on your dpf in the video are the pipes for the two inputs for the DPF pressure sensor. When your DPF is blocked and you can easily verify that with a diagnostic tool with life data (dpf differencial pressure) or with a manometer that can measure differencial pressure), then you can clean it yourself as DPF cleaning foams even available in a can in stores. They need some careful use but generally when the DPF is not mounted directly to the engine they can be used without any issue whatsoever, if the dpf is mounted close to the engine, do the cleaning process with the engine running. They need to get into the preferably hot DPF from the first pipe (inlet pressure sensor pipe) need to foam up and then exit via the exhaust system, in theory. When this is done there are some things to reset, relearn or recalibrate in a diagnostic tool and then generally when the issues are fixed the car is happily ready for the next 100-120k miles. So summarizing again: NO FORCED REGENS - get the diagnostic tool, and find why the dpf is blocked, fix those, make sure all systems are problem free that can be related to the dpf (some system does NOT throw error codes, for example japanese cars does not tell you the AC system is bad but disable regen anyway, Renault may not tell you the inlet pressure pipe is clogged, but you can check it yourself) - clean the dpf - reset, relearn, recalibrate system.

Will this need relearning, I have a 2013 face-lift insignia cdti I need to do. If so will a vxnano do the job

Good video

Haven’t you put the long belt underneath when it should be above?

😂 I didn't take any measurements 😢 By eye then for me 😮

Great vid...Why can't bloody manufactures make serviceable parts more accessible when they design engines...

Had a crack at doing this job this morning. Didn't have a cam belt so found an old bike inner tube I've been saving to make patches out of. Wrapped it around tightly and then wrapped the loose end around a spider brace. Kept turning the brace and stretching the rubber until it finally gave way. Same method to tighten back up. Thanks for the idea !