There are a couple of ideas to add. There are some diesels where the DPF fails prematurely. If this happens fitting a new DPF is thousands of pounds. Some examples: The new ingenium 2.0 Land Rovers, and the for transit connect 1.5 TDCIs from around 2018 have some cheap dpf installed in a bad location and on these models the internals and the case separates or the internals or cracks and let soot pass. On older euro5 models this might not be a problem but a newer euro6 models usually do have a sensor called the particulate matter sensor that knows the dpf failed and puts the van/car into limp mode until the issue is fixed. This can be easily diagnosed with the "finger in the hole" method and if you see carbon on your finger the dpf failed on these. Generally don't do a forced static regen. Period. If the car does not do a regen by itself there is a reason for that and a forced regen will most probably fail for that reason. If the soot content is too high in the dpf the temps can go uncontrolled if it starts the process for some reason and in can crack the case, the internals or both and kills an otherwise good dpf. Does not worth the risk. If a DPF is blocked it is usually can be cleaned fairly easily, if it is cracked it is done. DPFs can do a regen wherever on modern cars when the circumstances are right. There are a couple of different systems. Ford uses a "fifth injector (evaporator that sprays myst of fuel to the exhaust to bump up the temps)" in the exhaust on some models (this can clog and regens fail. Can be cleaned or replaced), PSA/stellantis uses an additive system which doses a fluid into the fuel called the Eolys fluid which then lowers the soot burning temperature from around 900 degrees celsius to 600. The best is to let them run on the motorway for a while, but they can do a regen without issues even on tickover. If the circumstances are right and there a lot of these the cars can start the regen process when the so called differencial pressure reaches a given treshold (we are talking about millibars here). These circumstances are different on each system but includes for example oil and coolant temps relative to external temperatures (for example dead external temp meters results the car not doing regens), pressures, fuel level, oil state (if the car thinks the oil is old on japanese cars they disable the regen) so reset the oil change interval on japanese diesels religiously when you change oil). On some cars if the AC failed the regen also gets disabled because these cars disable the electric fan and that is needed for the regen. On others if glowplugs are failed (and the error code is in the Powertrain module or ECU of the failed glowplugs) regen will not kick in, etc. This is far from detailed but you get the idea. The blocked DPF is usually a result of some systems failed in the car. On some PSA models there is a countdown from new, and it reaches about 0 around 100-120k miles, where the cars says the dpf is at it's end of life and needs a replacement and also stops the regen. Around the same time the factory fill of Eolys in the eolys tank runs dry too, so there are a couple of things to check, clean and fill, etc. On Renault models the inlet turbo pressure sensor pipe can clog up and bad readings can confuse the ecu which also disables regen, and so on. Fix the issue that causes the blockage and do a dpf clean you can easily do with the DPF in the car. The two thin metal pipes on your dpf in the video are the pipes for the two inputs for the DPF pressure sensor. When your DPF is blocked and you can easily verify that with a diagnostic tool with life data (dpf differencial pressure) or with a manometer that can measure differencial pressure), then you can clean it yourself as DPF cleaning foams even available in a can in stores. They need some careful use but generally when the DPF is not mounted directly to the engine they can be used without any issue whatsoever, if the dpf is mounted close to the engine, do the cleaning process with the engine running. They need to get into the preferably hot DPF from the first pipe (inlet pressure sensor pipe) need to foam up and then exit via the exhaust system, in theory. When this is done there are some things to reset, relearn or recalibrate in a diagnostic tool and then generally when the issues are fixed the car is happily ready for the next 100-120k miles. So summarizing again: NO FORCED REGENS - get the diagnostic tool, and find why the dpf is blocked, fix those, make sure all systems are problem free that can be related to the dpf (some system does NOT throw error codes, for example japanese cars does not tell you the AC system is bad but disable regen anyway, Renault may not tell you the inlet pressure pipe is clogged, but you can check it yourself) - clean the dpf - reset, relearn, recalibrate system.
There are a couple of ideas to add.
There are some diesels where the DPF fails prematurely. If this happens fitting a new DPF is thousands of pounds. Some examples: The new ingenium 2.0 Land Rovers, and the for transit connect 1.5 TDCIs from around 2018 have some cheap dpf installed in a bad location and on these models the internals and the case separates or the internals or cracks and let soot pass. On older euro5 models this might not be a problem but a newer euro6 models usually do have a sensor called the particulate matter sensor that knows the dpf failed and puts the van/car into limp mode until the issue is fixed. This can be easily diagnosed with the "finger in the hole" method and if you see carbon on your finger the dpf failed on these.
Generally don't do a forced static regen. Period. If the car does not do a regen by itself there is a reason for that and a forced regen will most probably fail for that reason. If the soot content is too high in the dpf the temps can go uncontrolled if it starts the process for some reason and in can crack the case, the internals or both and kills an otherwise good dpf. Does not worth the risk. If a DPF is blocked it is usually can be cleaned fairly easily, if it is cracked it is done.
DPFs can do a regen wherever on modern cars when the circumstances are right. There are a couple of different systems. Ford uses a "fifth injector (evaporator that sprays myst of fuel to the exhaust to bump up the temps)" in the exhaust on some models (this can clog and regens fail. Can be cleaned or replaced), PSA/stellantis uses an additive system which doses a fluid into the fuel called the Eolys fluid which then lowers the soot burning temperature from around 900 degrees celsius to 600. The best is to let them run on the motorway for a while, but they can do a regen without issues even on tickover.
If the circumstances are right and there a lot of these the cars can start the regen process when the so called differencial pressure reaches a given treshold (we are talking about millibars here). These circumstances are different on each system but includes for example oil and coolant temps relative to external temperatures (for example dead external temp meters results the car not doing regens), pressures, fuel level, oil state (if the car thinks the oil is old on japanese cars they disable the regen) so reset the oil change interval on japanese diesels religiously when you change oil). On some cars if the AC failed the regen also gets disabled because these cars disable the electric fan and that is needed for the regen. On others if glowplugs are failed (and the error code is in the Powertrain module or ECU of the failed glowplugs) regen will not kick in, etc. This is far from detailed but you get the idea. The blocked DPF is usually a result of some systems failed in the car. On some PSA models there is a countdown from new, and it reaches about 0 around 100-120k miles, where the cars says the dpf is at it's end of life and needs a replacement and also stops the regen. Around the same time the factory fill of Eolys in the eolys tank runs dry too, so there are a couple of things to check, clean and fill, etc. On Renault models the inlet turbo pressure sensor pipe can clog up and bad readings can confuse the ecu which also disables regen, and so on.
Fix the issue that causes the blockage and do a dpf clean you can easily do with the DPF in the car. The two thin metal pipes on your dpf in the video are the pipes for the two inputs for the DPF pressure sensor. When your DPF is blocked and you can easily verify that with a diagnostic tool with life data (dpf differencial pressure) or with a manometer that can measure differencial pressure), then you can clean it yourself as DPF cleaning foams even available in a can in stores. They need some careful use but generally when the DPF is not mounted directly to the engine they can be used without any issue whatsoever, if the dpf is mounted close to the engine, do the cleaning process with the engine running. They need to get into the preferably hot DPF from the first pipe (inlet pressure sensor pipe) need to foam up and then exit via the exhaust system, in theory. When this is done there are some things to reset, relearn or recalibrate in a diagnostic tool and then generally when the issues are fixed the car is happily ready for the next 100-120k miles.
So summarizing again: NO FORCED REGENS - get the diagnostic tool, and find why the dpf is blocked, fix those, make sure all systems are problem free that can be related to the dpf (some system does NOT throw error codes, for example japanese cars does not tell you the AC system is bad but disable regen anyway, Renault may not tell you the inlet pressure pipe is clogged, but you can check it yourself) - clean the dpf - reset, relearn, recalibrate system.
Great video mate
Oi oi here he fucking is
Yer man I am here 😀😀😀😀
And hopefully when I get the projects out the way I’m going to start building some cool stuff 😊