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I can’t imagine machine joinering a piece wider than 6”. The bounce would be horrendous. So, I agree with you. Do it by hand. Although I would get it close with my circular saw first. If the edge is slightly out of square that is not a problem if you do the same to the next board the other way round. What matters is the flatness along the length.

The judicious use of machines while focussing on hand tools. I think most of us are "hybrid". 👍

This is a great project and a great series. Thanks for sharing this project. I really like the rustic look of the walnut with the black hardware. It kinda looks like a tiny jail cell. 😂

This is a lot of dicking around with too many parts. Just buy the domino and move on folks.

Thanks for the emphasis on marking. Apart from jount marking I have screwed up a few times by not marking my parts and their relationship to each other. Like cutting a joint on the wrong face or shortening a sized part thinking it was the cut-off. Nowadays my parts end up covered in pencil. Having an organised workspace with enough surface to stack parts logically helps a lot.

Passion in my world of architecture is rare now days...Success should not be easy...its generally has to be something hard to achieve, requires fortitude, sublime self-belief and some luck (optional). Your videos mighty me for the purists, which i am aiming to become...Thanks for yr honesty !

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Thanks for the tip on router plane "lash" and blade "drop" . I've been struggling with that for some time now with that same model so thanks for educating an early stage hobbyist. It's always good to learn from a pro. - and now to save for a band saw.

In today's lesson I learned why my knife walls have been inconsistent! Angling the chisel as you demonstrated makes so much sense. I don't recall seeing that technique in others' videos. Or, its that your videos are more engaging. Using a router plane to clean up the cheeks is going to work better than what I've been doing. And, seeing and hearing how to refine the tenons so the shoulders sit tight is a win. That part wasn't new to me but your demonstration was perfect for the way I learn. Oh, the chat about using power tools is certainly helpful to folks growing into woodworking. This is a great series.

You bring the epitome of quality instruction and nuggets rarely seen elsewhere that I look for on TH-cam. It's such a wonderfully simple concept, yet I've never seen anyone trim tenons like that. Thank you and please know you're appreciated.

I agree about the thickness planer and the bandsaw. I'd love to get those some day. With the exception of a cordless drill, all I have are hand tools (I have never owned a table saw or any other big woodworking tool). Hand tools work just fine, but stock preparation can be a slog. On top of that, consistently getting a flat board with a square edge and consistent thickness is surprisingly difficult! Dovetails, on the other hand, were surprisingly easy in comparison.

Why do you wear gloves when working on the bandsaw?

Excellent work!

My 2 cents: When I cut tails or tenons and it's important where the back cut finishes I place a mirror over the back so I can see how deep I'm cutting. She never did find her mirror.

There are a few TH-cam wood worker sites I follow closely and look forward to new editions. You are the best one of them. I like the instruction, attention to detail, hand tool use and no BS glossy shots that have little instructional value. Thank you

Your “furniture-shaped object” is indeed looking very furniture-y. Nice video. Thank you very much for the insights on cutting a good mortise and tenon joint.

Nice explanation! Thank you!

I’ve been thinking about getting a bandsaw. Trying to decide between a small bench top model, or taking the buy once cry once approach. What bandsaw do you have? Any regrets?

12:24 Thank you for the video! I have a question about your recommendation to use a hide glue to attach an offcut back to a work piece. Could you please elaborate on why to use that particular kind of glue?

Lovely stuff. Maybe you consider one of Paul Sellers mortice guides? Or the English woodworker has a way to clean the inside walls of the mortice with a simple guide to get them parallel with the outside face/edge.

YES! I have that bottle warmer too, and it is going unused at the moment as my toddler no longer drinks warm milk, though begrudgingly still on the bottle. Excellent idea!

“Amate bark paper” 🎉 Drink! 🍺 🥴

Its a good plane overall but it requires a feather light touch and a good sense of balance. I often use it to cut a 1/8 shoulder and cut the actual rabbet with a shoulder plane. Its helpful with reversing grain.

10:07 3 hands? No. But I do have 2 hands and a stomach

15:30 Your stair saw is quite interesting. You would love my kerfing plane (which has a 3-arm fence and Norris inspired depth adjuster)

Hiding the edge of a mortice isn't the principle purpose of a shoulder, or set of shoulders. They are actually the strength of the joint. A bare-faced tenon (ie without shoulders), is far more prone to wracking. Obviously, as you showed, the location of the shoulders in hand-tool work is the critical dimension......NOT the length of the piece, as it would be in machine work. Instead of your Incra tool-marker-thingy, a pair of dividers would have done the job of marking the distance-from-centre perfectly. Without seeming to be too critical, transferring marks, rather than transferring measurements, is the principle with setting out for hand-tool work. All that measuring you did in setting up the mortices is something joiners are taught to avoid. Anyway, I love your channel. Your natural manner in front of the camera is very appealing. I'm not a fan of your designs at all, but that's irrelevant.

Lovely!

Lots of great info in this video, RC!

The thing is, I learn from you. Covering what you're doing, why you're doing it, and under what circumstances your approach is altered gives me a base of knowledge that would take many years to develop on my own. I agree with you about not sharing your designs. For one thing you did an excellent series on design. Lazy toads trying to take the easy way rather than learning how to design!

Thank you for explaining how the bevel does not need to actually be on the side of the mortise you are marking. When I first started woodworking I was so anal about where my bevel was when making any marks. It drove me crazy and was so difficult to do. It frustrated me so much that I almost gave up on the craft.

Compunctions and gription are on a boat

Looks good

How far below the top of the bench is your screw vice mounted?

I really enjoyed this one, RC. I lay out and cut my mortise and tenon joints in much the same way as you do, with minor differences only. I picked up a couple tips that I am looking good forward to trying on my next build… I gotta get one of those Incra layout squares! As for not sharing your proprietary software, etc, good for you. It’s yours! I like to get inspiration from other folks’ builds, not just duplicate someone else’s designs. I’m looking forward to the next idea in this series.

Excellent presentation. I look forward to the rest of the series.

I have the Woodisgood 12oz and am curious if you’ve tried the 18 or 20o? I don’t need it but curious if you had a preference for weight and how much you have to swing to impact the amount you want. Hope your subscriber count continues to grow and you have incentive to continue for a long time. I would miss you.

I've put Hock blades and chip breakers in a couple of my planes and have been really pleased with the results. I'd not thought of doing the same for my compass plane. Good shout - thank you.

R.C., this is a great tutorial for this segment of the table. Up front, I'm a subscriber and 'bell-ringer' person, so my next statement isn't intended to troll or... whatever, and I do agree with your belief about selling plans. What I'd like to suggest is that saying, "This is mine, and copying is bad because you're taking my potential money" (paraphrase?) sounds kinda d**kish. On the other hand, you did say something to the effect of, "Take what you see here and make it your own." That sounds like a woodworking guru on a mountain giving sage advice. You just need a flowing gray beard now. If you want to further monetize this channel, I've noticed that you are an exceptional teacher who explains - in detail - everything you're doing, AND you also provide the "why" of it. Total gold there, R.C., and you're giving it away. If you put this kind of thing into a paid video course, there's some more money. The free YT content could then just be cut-down versions for people who like to watch the process more than sitting taking literal notes. Again, long winded but totally supportive and hoping this massive comment finds appreciation!

Just finished a two day mortise and tenon course that was a mix of hand and machine tools. Still picked up a lot of tips from this video.

You deserve a round of applause for putting your foot down, and not giving into the angry mob. I might be overstating this situation, but it's become a trend for many woodworkers to feel that it's acceptable to copy other people's work. Potentially because free information is so easy to obtain on this platform. I've watched this mindset grow over the past 10 years where it's fashionable to be part of a socialistic makers movement. You you talk positively about my work and I will do the same for you, you give my post a thumbs up and I'll give your post a thumbs up, and we can all make merch like little stickers and trade them over the Internet so we can be the cool people, with the cool tools. Heaven forbid anybody say anything negative or give constructive criticism about our work, not conforming or agreeing with the group majority is considered trolling. We can all live in this happy little socialistic paradise where we trade all of our ideas and nothing has any value because in order for your creativity to be noticed, it must be accepted amongst the content creators who get the most views and the most likes. Whom their faithful followers have deemed them the insignificant title of an influencer. Well I guess I have become an old man clutching his fist at the clouds.

Also, what on earth was that sound at the 1:45 mark???

Hand tools!!! SO satisfying! I absolutely love your videos. Thank you!

First video I've seen of yours and subscribed. Really enjoyed this and especially talking about making your measurements and how you do them, thats information that i struggle to get from books and it being visually explained here is what i was after. Thank you

Great explanation of layout technique and reasoning behind why you work white oak the way you do. This will be a great help on my next build.

1. You have a very professional channel. The videos are well structure, well edited and topical. You are a good presenter. Q? Correct me if I'm wrong, but you seem to working in a double garage. What do you do with you cars. I'd love to take over the garage, but I have no solution for the two cars.

Only speaking for myself here, but I wasn't looking for detailed plans or measurements of any sort. I just wanted a rough sketch/drawing of what you're shooting for in the end. I've learned over time I'm a Global Learner, as such I find it very difficult to follow along if I don't have a decent Idea of what the object is going to look like in the end. No mind, I'lll just wait for the series to end, scroll to the end to see the finished product, then start with watching this episode.

Love your work, maybe one day i will make somethink similar

I could not agree more with your reluctance to share your design I thank you for not only showing your work but the process. Great videos.

Salut, magnique de l'armoire à outils à plus JEAN.

Great video! I am going to attempt this with a piece of furniture that I have stripped. The finish is gone but some of the stain has remained. Do you have any idea if that will affect the finished product? I can't sand any further because it is a veneer.