Instead of comparing with the humity and temperature on your chart, you could just take a reading from some wood that lives permanently in your workshop, such as your bench. I have a two-pin moisture meter, and I'm forever taking readings from my bench or tool cabinet to compare with my workpiece.
Thank you so very much for this deep explanation of moisture and wood movement. I really appreciate it! I’m going to check out that clock and see if there’s any way to recalibrate it. I use a moisture meter, but I haven’t been taking my shop humidity and temperature into consideration. I think that explains why I get cupping/warping on my “dry” worked boards. Knowledge is such a great thing! :)
I have been an avid follower of your channel since its inception, and while you occasionally utilize power tools, your primary focus appears to be on traditional "modern" hand tools. In this video, however, I noticed that you still seem to adhere to a more contemporary interpretation of the requirements for wood before it can be worked. On your Instagram page you have an image of a vernacular folk-style Swiss chest from a museum you visited that is clearly a riven and green woodworking example. Are there any plans for you to explore traditional woodworking techniques that utilize "green wood," as understood in today's context, rather than only the modern approach of using "dry wood"? It appears that many people today mistakenly believe that "cooked wood" is essential, operating under the notion that wood must be kiln-dried before it can be utilized. Thank you for your outstanding channel and the remarkable work you produce...
I find all aspects of woodworking and wood furniture design interesting and like to share anything and everything related to that, but when it comes to building furniture, I prefer to stick to "cooked wood" as you describe it. It's just as well- out here in Colorado, I have nearly zero access to usable green wood.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 A choice and perspective to be sure. In my youth, I lived in Colorado, particularly in the vicinity of Walsenburg, where my uncle managed a small sawmill. This background has provided me with an in-depth understanding of the local climate you mentioned. In your area, sourcing green wood is quite feasible (sorry to disagree with your belief you can't find any) as I maintain connections primarily for the timber frames and there furnishings that I design and construct in the authentic and traditional folk styles which always utilize green wood in their creation. If you are ever interested in delving into traditional vernacular green wood techniques, such as those used in the creation of the riven Swiss chest, there are several sawyers situated near Louisville. Prominent options include Urban Forest Mill and JKC Woods LLC in Longmont, along with Old Tyme Lumber in Boulder. Furthermore, you might consider reaching out to Woodmizer in Buena Vista for a list of smaller custom mills that provide competitive pricing. Thank you once more for what you share on your channel.
Yep, it's the CT-26 E with the CT-VA-20 on top. It works exceptionally well, which I'm glad to say, because as with most Festool, it's also outrageously priced.
Not sure. That said, I've rarely run into problems measuring 3/4" from both sides of thicker boards, but I tend to leave extra thickness when resawing, just in case.
I’m curious about your view on comparing the new wood being tested against similarly moisture meter grouped wood already in your shop that has reached equilibrium long before the introduction of the new project wood? I noticed that you made no attempt or reference on this video. Just wondering ……
Great and informative video. Are you happy with that moisture meter? Just a weekend warrior here but I’ve had a moisture meter on my list of thing to get for a while now. I don’t want to have to spend $500 on a Wagner if I can help it 🥴.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422I ordered the scanner through your link. Supposed to arrive today. I have a question, what is the process if your species isn’t on the list?
I won't keep it to myself... I learned a LOT in this video... thank you for the time you took to make this video. Very much appreciated!
Have to put it out there, boilermaker chalk/soapstone is also great for marking out on dark wood
Another interesting video !well done 🙏🏼🇬🇧
This was very helpful!
I learned the hard way but you added some further details I was unaware of. Thanks :)
That was informative. I'm downloading that chart as a great reference
Last I checked, I didn't see the FWW one but there were a bunch of others just like it.
Instead of comparing with the humity and temperature on your chart, you could just take a reading from some wood that lives permanently in your workshop, such as your bench. I have a two-pin moisture meter, and I'm forever taking readings from my bench or tool cabinet to compare with my workpiece.
thanks, good info
Thank you so very much for this deep explanation of moisture and wood movement. I really appreciate it! I’m going to check out that clock and see if there’s any way to recalibrate it. I use a moisture meter, but I haven’t been taking my shop humidity and temperature into consideration. I think that explains why I get cupping/warping on my “dry” worked boards. Knowledge is such a great thing! :)
Thanks!
Thank you!
I have been an avid follower of your channel since its inception, and while you occasionally utilize power tools, your primary focus appears to be on traditional "modern" hand tools. In this video, however, I noticed that you still seem to adhere to a more contemporary interpretation of the requirements for wood before it can be worked. On your Instagram page you have an image of a vernacular folk-style Swiss chest from a museum you visited that is clearly a riven and green woodworking example. Are there any plans for you to explore traditional woodworking techniques that utilize "green wood," as understood in today's context, rather than only the modern approach of using "dry wood"? It appears that many people today mistakenly believe that "cooked wood" is essential, operating under the notion that wood must be kiln-dried before it can be utilized. Thank you for your outstanding channel and the remarkable work you produce...
I find all aspects of woodworking and wood furniture design interesting and like to share anything and everything related to that, but when it comes to building furniture, I prefer to stick to "cooked wood" as you describe it. It's just as well- out here in Colorado, I have nearly zero access to usable green wood.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 A choice and perspective to be sure. In my youth, I lived in Colorado, particularly in the vicinity of Walsenburg, where my uncle managed a small sawmill. This background has provided me with an in-depth understanding of the local climate you mentioned. In your area, sourcing green wood is quite feasible (sorry to disagree with your belief you can't find any) as I maintain connections primarily for the timber frames and there furnishings that I design and construct in the authentic and traditional folk styles which always utilize green wood in their creation. If you are ever interested in delving into traditional vernacular green wood techniques, such as those used in the creation of the riven Swiss chest, there are several sawyers situated near Louisville. Prominent options include Urban Forest Mill and JKC Woods LLC in Longmont, along with Old Tyme Lumber in Boulder. Furthermore, you might consider reaching out to Woodmizer in Buena Vista for a list of smaller custom mills that provide competitive pricing. Thank you once more for what you share on your channel.
Very informative
Great video, great channel!
I spot the Festool CT-VA-20 in the background; happy with it? Worth a video?
Keep up the good work!
Yep, it's the CT-26 E with the CT-VA-20 on top. It works exceptionally well, which I'm glad to say, because as with most Festool, it's also outrageously priced.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 Thank you for your reply!
Not cheap, but neither are the bags…. Also nice to be able to see when it’s full.
I also have a Thermpro and it agrees within a few percent with my HVAC meter, a UEI DTH 35.
Thanks
Thank you, as well!
Good video!! please can you inform the model that can measure a very tickaround 2,2 inhces wood board? Thanks!!
Not sure. That said, I've rarely run into problems measuring 3/4" from both sides of thicker boards, but I tend to leave extra thickness when resawing, just in case.
I’m curious about your view on comparing the new wood being tested against similarly moisture meter grouped wood already in your shop that has reached equilibrium long before the introduction of the new project wood? I noticed that you made no attempt or reference on this video. Just wondering ……
That's a great suggestion. I don't know why I didn't do that. Thanks for the idea.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 A sign of intelligence and wisdom is the ability to consider other people’s suggestions. Warm Regards Sir!
Great and informative video. Are you happy with that moisture meter? Just a weekend warrior here but I’ve had a moisture meter on my list of thing to get for a while now. I don’t want to have to spend $500 on a Wagner if I can help it 🥴.
I'm sure there are more accurate moisture meters out there but this one has always been "accurate enough" for my purposes.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422I ordered the scanner through your link. Supposed to arrive today. I have a question, what is the process if your species isn’t on the list?
Mechanical moisture meters aren't good for very long. Electronic ones have much more stable calibration over time.