My build and review of the FlyPurrz Purrz 75 speedwing. It was sent to me for free to review. I have however tried to keep this review as honest and as unbiased as possible.
Please read before commenting: The launch - A lot of people have said that we launched the Purrz wrong, but we did the launch according to Flypurrz own instructions. The bungee - It's been pointed out that we didn't assemble it correctly, and it seems that you were right. My bad eeek. Cutting holes - Yes I should have used a Dremel, but I didn't have one to hand. I also didn't know in advance that the material would crack when cut with a knife. Hindsight is a great thing huh! Hardware used - I'm not rich, so often have to use whatever parts I have in my spares box. They sometimes might not be the best or more suitable parts, but I can't always afford to buy new. The manual - I built this aircraft in accordance with the 1st gen manual. Flypurrz have since revised the manual and changed some things (eg: max take off weight is now much lower). Experience - I've been flying fixed wing aircraft for many years, but I've never flown anything as fast as the Purrz before. This was my 1st time flying a properly fast (over 160kph) aircraft.
I thought the video you made was quite entertaining and educational. special appreciation for all the wiring diagrams you put up, so people don't have to watch and rewatch the video again and again and again to see where you did wire which piece :D And i felt bad for people obviously being judgy about the hardware. You are doing the best you can with the stuff you have/can afford. It's not like you are building 1-2 Planes a Year or there wouldnt be as many videos. So you cant be expected to buy new stuff for every plane. However I'd love a "this is my build, and here is what could be a cool setup" section. Then people can opt to either take whatever it is you did use in your build or go for an upgrade if they feel the need to do so.
@@gizfpv When I try any aircraft, especially special ones, I want to be able to make dozens of essays without the thing exploding at first mild crash...
The problem lies in the fact that those who have a lot of experience with similar models that are fast, sleek, composite aircraft, are all going to be better, larger, easier to land and more durable than this. Which really puts this one in a tough position if even the composite speed guys won't go for it. Also I think the whole FPV angle misses the mark as most of those flyers are los not fpv pilots..
@@nighthawk0077 , this is the same construction as any other high performance RC composite aircraft, including speed 400 pylon racers (about the same size). There is nothing out of the ordinary here with the construction of this thing.
@@abates3747 Watch this review again. He even mentions it's very thinly built and fragile. I've had several composite speed planes and they were all stronger than this.
Thank you very much for your review. @12:38 we are surprised u made it in the air with the shortened bungee cord. Please note that the barrier tape must be fixed behind the hook to ensure a save release. Greetings FlyPurrz-Team
I was thinking exact the same.... what happened to the cord. Actually one needs only a small piece black rubber and 50m - 100m of strong fishing-line does the rest. The comments on the thin skin does not make any sense. Planes are never engineered on crashing, but on flying (like in the hands of a seasoned pilot). Grumble... let me test this FPV-plane and the outcome will be completely different (with a smile on my face).
Tip for running the servo connectors. Use a magnet to drag along the outside of the wing, pulling the the connectors through the inside. Most connector pins are made of plated steel and would be attracted to the magnet. If this is not the case a wire could be inserted into the connectors to attract them to the magnet.
Good trick for the first time! After i got wires pulled through and want to replace servos i usually put a metal wire with hook on one end and hook it up to the servo connector and pull the metal wire through servo wire channel until it comes out on other side. Once i want to put a servo again i just hook up the servo lead to the hook and pull metal wire on other side
Change the motor for a DYS fire 6S running gear with a 5x5 and you may even hit 300kph. I used that setup in an S800 foamie for a clean 200kph and the Purrz has nice drag free lines. Also, to all who want very strong 3d prints, PET-G, very slow, 0.1mm layers and go 30degC hotter, 80degC bed. Your prints will be a bit heavier but almost clear and so strong that you can suspend a 100kg guy off a 5mm print. I used it like this for my kiteboard fins and footplates. P.S. bungee is perfect technique for hotliners but hook should be about 10% of total length forward of CoG.
Great Video Giz straight up told it like it was . I think if they made it a touch bigger and carbon fiber instead of fiberglass and a few structural supports it would stand a better chance and those same speeds would still be attainable take care
When you throw the aircraft up in the air at launch --- the rubber band is pulling it down to the ground. (there is a forward vector of force and a downward vector of force) You should be low to the ground when you release and allow the lift of the plane to do all the vertical work.
I am an experienced fixed wing RC pilot and I had three crashes from three attempts trying to hand launch a very heavily loaded Vol asw28 in manual. I then gave up and switched to stabilised FBWA and had no more problems. Without the stabilisation my launch would never be straight and by the time I got my throwing hand on the aileron stick to correct, it was already in a bad attitude and not enough control surface authority to fix it before it hits the ground. I suggest taking off in a stabilised mode,
Thanks, I really enjoyed that! May I offer a suggestion? Orient your prints on the bed so that the “grain” or layers, are perpendicular to the load axis. It will make for extra support material when printing, but a more reliable part in the end.
How about just flying bareback before adding all the flight controller and FPV etc... I mean as a general rule, not just for this plane. Regarding the large RTH radius, maybe it was limited by a maximum bank angle setting, and at 150km/h there's only so fast you can turn. My guess would be iNav uses a relatively simplistic algorithm which only adjusts the elevator to meet the desired altitude, and roll adjustment is expected to meet the desired radius. Would be interesting to see if Ardupilot does any better. I'm kinda amazed they made such a beautiful molded fiberglass airframe and then.... 3d printed the control horns. Could probably cut 60 of them from one A4 sized sheet of G10. Maybe they don't have a CNC machine? Seems like the nose could benefit greatly from having even a small amount of backing material (foam, balsa etc) behind the thin walls, but you'd be giving up a lot of useful space. Impressive speed anyway!!
I was also surprised by their construction choice. It's fairly normal on composite planes to add some carbon tow for stiffening at critical junctions or areas like wing spars, noses, tail surfaces, and wing joiners. I have several truly molded fiberglass ships and while they are heavy, they are next to bulletproof. I've managed to actually chop down small shrubs on landing approaches, and couldn't even find a mark.
I think you're right about the RTH radius. The fact that the purrz cruises over 100mph and there is a bank angle restriction would certainly explain the wide loiter. Like I said in the video though, it would be easy enough to fix. I also agree that just reinforcing the nose would go a long way towards making the airframe more resistant to impact damage. Even if they just thickened the amount of fibreglass by 1mm would probbaly help a lot. As for flying bareback before adding a FC, tbh I've never done that just because I typically find most aircraft work fine from the getgo with inav installed. On a new to market aircraft though where I don't have the experience of others to fall back on, you're probably right though. In hindsight some testing before installing hevaier hardware could have been a good move.
Can always mount things in reverse and change it on the inav if need those battery wires shorter. Hope your servo links stay didn’t see a z bend in the wires. Thanks for the video !
It's not supposed to climb. By using a bungee you get speed. In order to climb, a much longer cable should be used, and the hook should be fairly close to the CG..
Admittedly I'd never used a bungee before, so i gave the bungee setup responsibility to my friend (the one you see in the video) as he had used them before. After talking with Flypurrz though it does seem like we didn't set it up correctly so that's a failing on our part
@@gizfpv yeah your friend had no idea and killed ur plane :) make sure the hook position on the plane is correct (this is pretty important) and get a foot release system, there are a couple variations. if you are worried about the aircraft resting on the ground there are 2 ways you can overcome this. 1. a pvc launcher that gives your plane something to rest on and angle it accordingly (similar to larger UAV catapults) 2 . you can make a 2 wheel dolly system that the nose sits on, the weight is still on the hook however it rolls along on the dolly system avoiding catching grass/ground
Is a long servo extender cable going from the VTX to the flight controller bad at all? im running an fpv cam on the tail 20 inches away from where i want to place my flight controller, any tips or ideas helps. Thanks!
great review. its a no deal if it can't take a bit of punishment. nothing worse than being all excited with all the gear to go home with only busted bits. What is your current favorite winged platform overall? love to know
Either a Strix Nano Goblin or a S800. Hard to choose between the 2, as they are both good. Easy to fly, easy to build and good flight times with both :)
Nice video! I have asked them to send me one to see how fast it can actually go. Was that a wing drop stall at 100kmh on the bad landing? Trying to understand why it rolled and there was no flare.
Thanks a lot, very well done review in every aspect. If it seems almost impossible to land without breaking it, what is the point of it all, especially when the take off is another major risk. The current version would be a nightmare to me, though it is an interesting and expensive/time consuming experiment.
I think that the key to landing it is to have a very large open space with a smooth and soft surface. You also want to get the aircraft lined up for landing at a distance because as it slows down the elevons lose authority and the aircraft becomes harder to control.
Awesome, but... I think this might should be the race version, perhaps with a high $ carbon option. I think foam sandwich with glass (or maybe kevlar) and epoxy would be a lot tougher than the single wall glass and (probably just polyester) resin. In short, good aerodynamics, excellent though perhaps over-enthusiastic weight minimization. Going double wall with tougher fibers and better resin would be heavier, but it would make the result a lot more durable. Last, those servo linkages (and perhaps the servos themselves) should be installed at the factory. Those linkages might be the most easily damaged part on some fixed wings, but that just looked crazy, and perhaps putting them in at the factory could offset some of the weight of a tougher fuselage. Last a really crazy idea, make the fuselage out of mylar wrapped foam with a carbon spar that everything mounts to. The foam fuselage would be essentially expendable.
No, no capacitor was used. If you look at the first flight, there was no power noise at all. The reason for power noise on the 2nd flight was due to the VTX being relocated to a position directly beside the battery/xt60 lead. It was therefore probably EMF noise that caused the issue. A capacitor may have helped with this, but as you saw, I never got another chance to fly the aircraft again to try solve the issue
Do the launch directions say you should throw the aircraft upwards before releasing it on the teather? I'd expect you're introducing all kinds of instability that way... Just pull it back at waist level and let go maybe?
That fin on the underside will make the nose dig in upon landing, further threatening an already fragile plane. Bungee launching is frightful too! I wonder would a uav catapult be any good? Like a scuba diving harpoon....😃
It might have helped, and had I had more chances to fly it I would have probably tried it. I don't 100% trust autolaunch though which is why I chose to launch manually instead
Really impressive speed meant for a very experienced pilot. A full CF frame is dangerous for FPV as it cast RF shadows for pilot's video antenna. This model seems like a pilon racer with pusher setup. I didn't get the purpose of the big back lower fin though ( it will wear off of get damaged after many landings).
Thank you for the review. I drooled over this plane when it's pictures were first released. I still love the design, but the fragility and complexity don't seem to warrant the price for the airframe. Way better off with a Ritewing Mini Drak or other such plane with a hot motor setup.
Nope, absolutely not the correct way to mount the crossfire antenna, but seeing as range wasn't a requirment on this build, and due to limited space, I just stuck it on in the easiest way I could
It's odd because on the first flight there wasn't any power noise on the fpv, but on the 2nd flight there was a lot. My only guess is that the noise became a issue 2nd time around because the VTX had been moved and was right beside the battery. A cap would have no doubt solved it
Foam has clearly spoiled us as builders and pilots. There was a time, long before FPV, when composite hotliners and performance slopers ruled the skies... and littered the grass with fiberglass shards!
You've got to wonder at a launching system that pulls the plane into the ground by design, and relies on the ailerons to save it. Why not have the anchor point of the bungee like 30cm above ground, and then you'd launch the thing from ground level? This way it'd go upwards instead.
I've noticed the launcher person lifted his hands upwards just before release, the bungee then moved up, before rebounding downward right before release, sending the plane in a slope that intersects with the ground. As we all know the earth is composed of materials that are too solid to fly through :-| I wonder if the bungee could be attached to a 1 ft high stake with a soft ramp for protection in front
Looks like the first rough landing, or a landing on somewhere other than soft gras....will result in the plane exploding on contact. Much to brittle. Will stick with my drak for speed runs
I would say you missed the cons of hard to launch and hard to land. I also think that Excellent Performance is pretty much a bit redundant next to Easy to Fly and Vary Fast... considering I did not see you actually attempt any fancy maneuvers. I would say that is a 5 vs 2.... and that does not even take into account it is based in Germany and dependent on your location this means longer shipping times, more expensive shipping and likely no replacement parts (like the part you 3D printed). Given the fact than a rather experienced flyer had less than a 50% succe3ss rate building something so hard to assemble just does not bode well for it. I would say 2 out of 5 and it on gets 2 because it came close to the listed speed.
The first successful flight I showed in the video was a hand launch, in horizon mode. As you saw though the aircraft wildly torque rolls on launch. The aircraft needs to be moving quite fast for the elevons to have enough authority to counteract the torque roll, which is why you have to use the bungee
That's good thinking. But then again, why is it I imagine my wife standing in the middle of the flying field runway holding up one of those large netted fishing scoops screaming "Just don't hit me with it"?
The 2nd fuselage they sent me was 'B' grade, meaning it wasnt aesthetically perfect but still functional. Just had a few defects in it but they were cosmetic
FRP is NOT simply fiberglass with a plastic coating. FRP is what you get with any plastic resin infused fiberglass material also known as a composite. It being coated in plastic on the outer structure has nothing to do with it being FRP. This is how most composites are constructed BTW. Carbon fiber panels are CRP. The main rigid component of the structure is indeed the plastic resin (epoxy in most modern cases). The fiberglass or carbon is there to do exactly what the term suggests, reenforce the resin structure.
I feel your pain I hate grp it’s like egg shell and really hard to fix. I recon that prop was too big and caused problems on take off due to the torque twisting body causing lack of lift And the lower tail even if you did bleed all the speed on landing will always drive nose into ground Keep the wing and build your own balsa body will b much stronger and you can fix it in the field. I bet it will go just as fast. I can tell this plane vexed you. I had one like this once Although it comes as a kit it takes longer to rig than it would to scratch build from start to finish. Wonder if the creators are actually modellers or cad dreamers. Bet your glad yo didn’t pay for it 👍👍👍👍
Excellent review, well done! Being very new to drones, that is having only begun my research on them as a patrol tool, my opinions won’t be worth much… It definitely seems to be a poor investment as the airframe is far too happy to fail from the excessive landing speed combined with it’s pitiful durability! Flight duration makes it suitable for only the speed inclined flying enthusiast. I’d have probably cut that troublesome hole from your initial build with a Dremel tool. Thanks for the review. It contains all the information I found relevant for my needs. Best,
The main pod needs to be epp and the wings stay fiberglass. Also redesign the wings for slower stall speed. If you can't land at reasonable speed, it's not good.
It's a design compromise; lower stall speed means lower top speeds. And EPP might not have the required rigidity, i.e. is too plastic and therefore flexible. It's another design compromise, which you have to live with if you want this sort of performance I'm afraid.
@@loc4725 I get it but a plane should be able to land safely. Otherwise you better simply build a rocket. Epp can be reinforced with carbon fiber but the pod is not a breaking point, it needs to keep the wings tho.
@@goku445 I'm familiar with fast, high stall speed models and coming in hot is something you both expect and plan for so I don't think it's unreasonable for this model to be the same way. I with you though agree that fibreglass is probably not the best material to use, especially as most high end hotliners these days are made with carbon fiber, often for every part of the body. And having a boom on a model which is going top come in and stop fast isn't a great idea either.
Didn't go anwhere near 1000'. Legal limit here is 400'. However because I was flying on a hillside, occassionally as I flew up the hill the altitude would show as being above 400', relative to the take off point. The aircraft never actually went over 400', but was easier to just blot out the numbers than explain that in the video
That bungee launch was pilot error. Never throw a plane up! Either in a hand launch or a bungee launch. When you do that it creates higher pressure above the wing and it makes it fly down. And the result is what you see here 8:40 When launching always throw straight forward to gain speed so the aircraft can create its own lift. Also throwing down is a bad idea because it can create too much lift and crash too.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 66 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs อัคราม"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j4uI5Uy8mWQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Please read before commenting:
The launch - A lot of people have said that we launched the Purrz wrong, but we did the launch according to Flypurrz own instructions.
The bungee - It's been pointed out that we didn't assemble it correctly, and it seems that you were right. My bad eeek.
Cutting holes - Yes I should have used a Dremel, but I didn't have one to hand. I also didn't know in advance that the material would crack when cut with a knife. Hindsight is a great thing huh!
Hardware used - I'm not rich, so often have to use whatever parts I have in my spares box. They sometimes might not be the best or more suitable parts, but I can't always afford to buy new.
The manual - I built this aircraft in accordance with the 1st gen manual. Flypurrz have since revised the manual and changed some things (eg: max take off weight is now much lower).
Experience - I've been flying fixed wing aircraft for many years, but I've never flown anything as fast as the Purrz before. This was my 1st time flying a properly fast (over 160kph) aircraft.
you dont want to discourage them, comments = engagment
Would u recommend this for some1 flying turbines ?
I am interested in the field of drones and aerial vehicles and would like take this as my carrear would you plz tell me in which field this comes in
Plase can you explain how you have repaired the plastic piece where connect the serve wire? From the video i can't understand
I thought the video you made was quite entertaining and educational. special appreciation for all the wiring diagrams you put up, so people don't have to watch and rewatch the video again and again and again to see where you did wire which piece :D
And i felt bad for people obviously being judgy about the hardware. You are doing the best you can with the stuff you have/can afford.
It's not like you are building 1-2 Planes a Year or there wouldnt be as many videos. So you cant be expected to buy new stuff for every plane.
However I'd love a "this is my build, and here is what could be a cool setup" section.
Then people can opt to either take whatever it is you did use in your build or go for an upgrade if they feel the need to do so.
That aircraft in my opinion is for someone with alot of experience with those same types of fast very delicate airframes...
I agree. It needs to be flown by someone who's experienced in flying with fast aircraft, which is something i don't mind admitting that I am not
@@gizfpv When I try any aircraft, especially special ones, I want to be able to make dozens of essays without the thing exploding at first mild crash...
The problem lies in the fact that those who have a lot of experience with similar models that are fast, sleek, composite aircraft, are all going to be better, larger, easier to land and more durable than this. Which really puts this one in a tough position if even the composite speed guys won't go for it. Also I think the whole FPV angle misses the mark as most of those flyers are los not fpv pilots..
@@nighthawk0077 , this is the same construction as any other high performance RC composite aircraft, including speed 400 pylon racers (about the same size). There is nothing out of the ordinary here with the construction of this thing.
@@abates3747 Watch this review again. He even mentions it's very thinly built and fragile. I've had several composite speed planes and they were all stronger than this.
Thank you very much for your review. @12:38 we are surprised u made it in the air with the shortened bungee cord. Please note that the barrier tape must be fixed behind the hook to ensure a save release. Greetings FlyPurrz-Team
I was thinking exact the same.... what happened to the cord. Actually one needs only a small piece black rubber and 50m - 100m of strong fishing-line does the rest. The comments on the thin skin does not make any sense. Planes are never engineered on crashing, but on flying (like in the hands of a seasoned pilot). Grumble... let me test this FPV-plane and the outcome will be completely different (with a smile on my face).
wow, that crash was heart wrenching. Especially after ALL THAT WORK!!
Yesss I've been waiting for more in-depth videos about this thing, thank you!!
You have my respect for your ability to stay goal oriented even after so much complication and set-backs. Nice work my friend!
I agree. I'm tired just watching this drinking a coffee. I would have given up long ago. Good work indeed!
nice to find out the full story behind your journey with this model, great review. many thanks
I know nothing about this stuff, but that is an amazingly comprehensive review, well done
Tip for running the servo connectors. Use a magnet to drag along the outside of the wing, pulling the the connectors through the inside. Most connector pins are made of plated steel and would be attracted to the magnet. If this is not the case a wire could be inserted into the connectors to attract them to the magnet.
Good trick for the first time! After i got wires pulled through and want to replace servos i usually put a metal wire with hook on one end and hook it up to the servo connector and pull the metal wire through servo wire channel until it comes out on other side. Once i want to put a servo again i just hook up the servo lead to the hook and pull metal wire on other side
Just found your channel really like your style easy to follow but not slow and boring.
this video is sweet!! it helped me see my fpv ASW28 build in person. Im excited, thanks!
Great review and love the honesty 👍👍👍
Often seen on fast fighter jets, Then shows a picture of the slowest fighter jet. Lol
Sorry but who cars really
I think it’s because the harrier is British and he is too?
@@someguy2344 saying anything hateful is a sin
@@someguy2344 I car
Change the motor for a DYS fire 6S running gear with a 5x5 and you may even hit 300kph. I used that setup in an S800 foamie for a clean 200kph and the Purrz has nice drag free lines. Also, to all who want very strong 3d prints, PET-G, very slow, 0.1mm layers and go 30degC hotter, 80degC bed. Your prints will be a bit heavier but almost clear and so strong that you can suspend a 100kg guy off a 5mm print. I used it like this for my kiteboard fins and footplates.
P.S. bungee is perfect technique for hotliners but hook should be about 10% of total length forward of CoG.
Really good video. I was super curious about this thing
Very informative video, so much potential with a drone. Thanks for sharing from another drone creator here
Great review. Enough to ward off the numpties like me from a bad experience......for now, I'll be better in due course.
Great Video Giz straight up told it like it was . I think if they made it a touch bigger and carbon fiber instead of fiberglass and a few structural supports it would stand a better chance and those same speeds would still be attainable
take care
Very good and informative video! Thank you!
For landing I would defenitly take of fpv glasses and do a visual landing..
Great honest review
Best laptop wallpapers
When you throw the aircraft up in the air at launch --- the rubber band is pulling it down to the ground. (there is a forward vector of force and a downward vector of force) You should be low to the ground when you release and allow the lift of the plane to do all the vertical work.
I am an experienced fixed wing RC pilot and I had three crashes from three attempts trying to hand launch a very heavily loaded Vol asw28 in manual. I then gave up and switched to stabilised FBWA and had no more problems.
Without the stabilisation my launch would never be straight and by the time I got my throwing hand on the aileron stick to correct, it was already in a bad attitude and not enough control surface authority to fix it before it hits the ground.
I suggest taking off in a stabilised mode,
Thanks, I really enjoyed that! May I offer a suggestion? Orient your prints on the bed so that the “grain” or layers, are perpendicular to the load axis. It will make for extra support material when printing, but a more reliable part in the end.
How about just flying bareback before adding all the flight controller and FPV etc... I mean as a general rule, not just for this plane.
Regarding the large RTH radius, maybe it was limited by a maximum bank angle setting, and at 150km/h there's only so fast you can turn. My guess would be iNav uses a relatively simplistic algorithm which only adjusts the elevator to meet the desired altitude, and roll adjustment is expected to meet the desired radius. Would be interesting to see if Ardupilot does any better.
I'm kinda amazed they made such a beautiful molded fiberglass airframe and then.... 3d printed the control horns. Could probably cut 60 of them from one A4 sized sheet of G10. Maybe they don't have a CNC machine?
Seems like the nose could benefit greatly from having even a small amount of backing material (foam, balsa etc) behind the thin walls, but you'd be giving up a lot of useful space.
Impressive speed anyway!!
I was also surprised by their construction choice. It's fairly normal on composite planes to add some carbon tow for stiffening at critical junctions or areas like wing spars, noses, tail surfaces, and wing joiners. I have several truly molded fiberglass ships and while they are heavy, they are next to bulletproof. I've managed to actually chop down small shrubs on landing approaches, and couldn't even find a mark.
I think you're right about the RTH radius. The fact that the purrz cruises over 100mph and there is a bank angle restriction would certainly explain the wide loiter. Like I said in the video though, it would be easy enough to fix. I also agree that just reinforcing the nose would go a long way towards making the airframe more resistant to impact damage. Even if they just thickened the amount of fibreglass by 1mm would probbaly help a lot.
As for flying bareback before adding a FC, tbh I've never done that just because I typically find most aircraft work fine from the getgo with inav installed. On a new to market aircraft though where I don't have the experience of others to fall back on, you're probably right though. In hindsight some testing before installing hevaier hardware could have been a good move.
Can always mount things in reverse and change it on the inav if need those battery wires shorter. Hope your servo links stay didn’t see a z bend in the wires. Thanks for the video !
Just a suggestion, but in the future, you might try thick guitar or bass string to push cables through the fuselage.
looks like the bungee hook is too much forward, making it impossible to climb when engaged.
It's not supposed to climb. By using a bungee you get speed. In order to climb, a much longer cable should be used, and the hook should be fairly close to the CG..
That wallpaper 😂 nice video mate!
I got to say, I have never seen anyone throw a plane on the end of a bungee like that :)
Yeah it's not a high start :D
Agreed, let the bungy take out of your hand.
Maybe move the hook back a bit so it goes up rather than into the ground.
He hasn't spent much time shooting things with rubberbands in school lmao
Admittedly I'd never used a bungee before, so i gave the bungee setup responsibility to my friend (the one you see in the video) as he had used them before. After talking with Flypurrz though it does seem like we didn't set it up correctly so that's a failing on our part
@@gizfpv yeah your friend had no idea and killed ur plane :) make sure the hook position on the plane is correct (this is pretty important) and get a foot release system, there are a couple variations. if you are worried about the aircraft resting on the ground there are 2 ways you can overcome this. 1. a pvc launcher that gives your plane something to rest on and angle it accordingly (similar to larger UAV catapults) 2 . you can make a 2 wheel dolly system that the nose sits on, the weight is still on the hook however it rolls along on the dolly system avoiding catching grass/ground
Thanks!!! I like the FC setup, too. No plastic here an they are too fragile. Great try!
Merry Christmas Giz.
now this is epic
obviously... it is unique
If I buy one of those and stuff it on the first lauch, will they send me another? because if they don't this review video should end aound 8:30...
Is a long servo extender cable going from the VTX to the flight controller bad at all? im running an fpv cam on the tail 20 inches away from where i want to place my flight controller, any tips or ideas helps. Thanks!
It should be fine. Just make sure the wires don't pass by anything that might be effected by EMF. Twisting the wires is often a good idea
Just found your channel sounds really cool and you definitely deserve my subscription and like
Super nice, we have subscribed 😎🇺🇸
great review. its a no deal if it can't take a bit of punishment. nothing worse than being all excited with all the gear to go home with only busted bits.
What is your current favorite winged platform overall? love to know
Either a Strix Nano Goblin or a S800. Hard to choose between the 2, as they are both good. Easy to fly, easy to build and good flight times with both :)
Nice video! I have asked them to send me one to see how fast it can actually go. Was that a wing drop stall at 100kmh on the bad landing? Trying to understand why it rolled and there was no flare.
At 'low' speeds the elevons lose responsiveness and the aircraft becomes harder to control. That's why you kinda have to land it at speed
I really want to use the dji fpv radio to control my planes.. any suggestions?
you can unlock the tbs unify from 25mw quite easily using the button on the VTX
Yeah I know, it was already unlocked and should have been at full power, but for some reason had reverted back to 25mw
i have had many planes similar to that and have always hand launched.
Thanks a lot, very well done review in every aspect.
If it seems almost impossible to land without breaking it, what is the point of it all, especially when the take off is another major risk. The current version would be a nightmare to me, though it is an interesting and expensive/time consuming experiment.
I think that the key to landing it is to have a very large open space with a smooth and soft surface. You also want to get the aircraft lined up for landing at a distance because as it slows down the elevons lose authority and the aircraft becomes harder to control.
the blurred out max alt made me LOL.
awesome, subscribed!!
Very cool, I just Subscribed!
Awesome, but... I think this might should be the race version, perhaps with a high $ carbon option. I think foam sandwich with glass (or maybe kevlar) and epoxy would be a lot tougher than the single wall glass and (probably just polyester) resin. In short, good aerodynamics, excellent though perhaps over-enthusiastic weight minimization. Going double wall with tougher fibers and better resin would be heavier, but it would make the result a lot more durable. Last, those servo linkages (and perhaps the servos themselves) should be installed at the factory. Those linkages might be the most easily damaged part on some fixed wings, but that just looked crazy, and perhaps putting them in at the factory could offset some of the weight of a tougher fuselage. Last a really crazy idea, make the fuselage out of mylar wrapped foam with a carbon spar that everything mounts to. The foam fuselage would be essentially expendable.
Quadmovr made this thing look so good. thanks for showing us a unbiased review!
Do you use any kind of capacitor on the esc? It looks like you have a lot of noise coming in from the motor!
No, no capacitor was used. If you look at the first flight, there was no power noise at all. The reason for power noise on the 2nd flight was due to the VTX being relocated to a position directly beside the battery/xt60 lead. It was therefore probably EMF noise that caused the issue. A capacitor may have helped with this, but as you saw, I never got another chance to fly the aircraft again to try solve the issue
Fast, small...now thats my kind of FPV!
Do the launch directions say you should throw the aircraft upwards before releasing it on the teather?
I'd expect you're introducing all kinds of instability that way...
Just pull it back at waist level and let go maybe?
Can we make universal rc reciver for hitec aurora 9
great vid and plane... but you need a Dremel or any other spinning tool to cut the holes ;-)
That's what I kept thinking also.
I agree, unfortunately I didnt have one to hand
That fin on the underside will make the nose dig in upon landing, further threatening an already fragile plane. Bungee launching is frightful too! I wonder would a uav catapult be any good? Like a scuba diving harpoon....😃
I think a catapult would work well
Would not inav autolaunch have helped in launching this Bird? Maybe it wasn't around when he did this initially?
It might have helped, and had I had more chances to fly it I would have probably tried it. I don't 100% trust autolaunch though which is why I chose to launch manually instead
If you bought a tbs unify "racer" edition then it is only 25mw and is intended for racing or close quarter flying
You forgot to mention on the bad... its Pepto-Bismol pink. This was fun to watch none the less. thanks for posting.
Haha, it is certainly very pink. Luckily they do other colours though 😁
And looks like a penis.....
Really impressive speed meant for a very experienced pilot. A full CF frame is dangerous for FPV as it cast RF shadows for pilot's video antenna. This model seems like a pilon racer with pusher setup. I didn't get the purpose of the big back lower fin though ( it will wear off of get damaged after many landings).
Nice video, plane is fast but if it's to fast then it's no fun. Plane nose should be reinforced with carbon or plastic inside. Z84 wing is the best 😁
Awesome
you are the man, was very courius about this wing, thanks for the review
Thank you for the review. I drooled over this plane when it's pictures were first released. I still love the design, but the fragility and complexity don't seem to warrant the price for the airframe. Way better off with a Ritewing Mini Drak or other such plane with a hot motor setup.
I that a correct way to mount the Crossfire dipole antenna? I thought they are only meant to be mounted straight.
Nope, absolutely not the correct way to mount the crossfire antenna, but seeing as range wasn't a requirment on this build, and due to limited space, I just stuck it on in the easiest way I could
@@gizfpv ahh yes. That makes sense.
looks like you need a cap on that flight controller, some thing in the way of video interference there.
It's odd because on the first flight there wasn't any power noise on the fpv, but on the 2nd flight there was a lot. My only guess is that the noise became a issue 2nd time around because the VTX had been moved and was right beside the battery. A cap would have no doubt solved it
Magnificent technical achievement, but a Strix Goblin would be more practical for a lot less money.
and slow
@@marc_frank What do you normally fly?
@@MultiSweeney1 own design tp3 and scratchbuilt dlg f5k
Foam has clearly spoiled us as builders and pilots. There was a time, long before FPV, when composite hotliners and performance slopers ruled the skies... and littered the grass with fiberglass shards!
You've got to wonder at a launching system that pulls the plane into the ground by design, and relies on the ailerons to save it. Why not have the anchor point of the bungee like 30cm above ground, and then you'd launch the thing from ground level? This way it'd go upwards instead.
I agree. Feels wrong to have a cord pull the aircraft straight towards the ground. As you saw, that can lead to a pretty devastating crash
Good speed, but where’s the efficient Rc plane that can fly fast on less than 30A 4s? I’m looking for 1 hr long flights not 4 min
I've noticed the launcher person lifted his hands upwards just before release, the bungee then moved up, before rebounding downward right before release, sending the plane in a slope that intersects with the ground. As we all know the earth is composed of materials that are too solid to fly through :-|
I wonder if the bungee could be attached to a 1 ft high stake with a soft ramp for protection in front
Try capacitor on pdb. 35v 1000uf. Clean up video feed
Where did you get it?
Looks like the first rough landing, or a landing on somewhere other than soft gras....will result in the plane exploding on contact.
Much to brittle. Will stick with my drak for speed runs
I would say you missed the cons of hard to launch and hard to land. I also think that Excellent Performance is pretty much a bit redundant next to Easy to Fly and Vary Fast... considering I did not see you actually attempt any fancy maneuvers. I would say that is a 5 vs 2.... and that does not even take into account it is based in Germany and dependent on your location this means longer shipping times, more expensive shipping and likely no replacement parts (like the part you 3D printed). Given the fact than a rather experienced flyer had less than a 50% succe3ss rate building something so hard to assemble just does not bode well for it. I would say 2 out of 5 and it on gets 2 because it came close to the listed speed.
hand Launch full power in in stabilize mode. Ive seen those types of bungees claim so many planes...Its a lottery launching like that.
The first successful flight I showed in the video was a hand launch, in horizon mode. As you saw though the aircraft wildly torque rolls on launch. The aircraft needs to be moving quite fast for the elevons to have enough authority to counteract the torque roll, which is why you have to use the bungee
A bungee is foolproof if the plane is setup well. And certainly safer than hand launching an aircraft that requires high airspeed.
Maybe a big net to catch the fast landing without damage.
That's good thinking. But then again, why is it I imagine my wife standing in the middle of the flying field runway holding up one of those large netted fishing scoops screaming "Just don't hit me with it"?
Haha 😁
at 12:18 is the fuselage a second that they sent? looks like a crack
The 2nd fuselage they sent me was 'B' grade, meaning it wasnt aesthetically perfect but still functional. Just had a few defects in it but they were cosmetic
FRP is NOT simply fiberglass with a plastic coating. FRP is what you get with any plastic resin infused fiberglass material also known as a composite. It being coated in plastic on the outer structure has nothing to do with it being FRP. This is how most composites are constructed BTW. Carbon fiber panels are CRP. The main rigid component of the structure is indeed the plastic resin (epoxy in most modern cases). The fiberglass or carbon is there to do exactly what the term suggests, reenforce the resin structure.
I mentione how expensive this was on another forum. Great idea lovely looking model but for £300!
it's a high performance professional model, i wouldn't expect any less to be honest
Looks like it'd be a great product if sold as plug and play or BNF. I don't need another difficult project!
I agree, if Flypurrz did a BNF so you didnt have to do so much of the tricky build yourself that would be awesome
I feel your pain I hate grp it’s like egg shell and really hard to fix. I recon that prop was too big and caused problems on take off due to the torque twisting body causing lack of lift And the lower tail even if you did bleed all the speed on landing will always drive nose into ground Keep the wing and build your own balsa body will b much stronger and you can fix it in the field. I bet it will go just as fast. I can tell this plane vexed you. I had one like this once Although it comes as a kit it takes longer to rig than it would to scratch build from start to finish. Wonder if the creators are actually modellers or cad dreamers. Bet your glad yo didn’t pay for it 👍👍👍👍
Excellent review, well done!
Being very new to drones, that is having only begun my research on them as a patrol tool, my opinions won’t be worth much…
It definitely seems to be a poor investment as the airframe is far too happy to fail from the excessive landing speed combined with it’s pitiful durability!
Flight duration makes it suitable for only the speed inclined flying enthusiast.
I’d have probably cut that troublesome hole from your initial build with a Dremel tool.
Thanks for the review. It contains all the information I found relevant for my needs.
Best,
I'm glad you liked it and found it informative 😊
More Caipi2 videos! :D
Man you sure need a rotary tool bad. Totally destroyed that tail piece for the vtx lol
The main pod needs to be epp and the wings stay fiberglass. Also redesign the wings for slower stall speed. If you can't land at reasonable speed, it's not good.
It's a design compromise; lower stall speed means lower top speeds. And EPP might not have the required rigidity, i.e. is too plastic and therefore flexible. It's another design compromise, which you have to live with if you want this sort of performance I'm afraid.
@@loc4725 I get it but a plane should be able to land safely. Otherwise you better simply build a rocket. Epp can be reinforced with carbon fiber but the pod is not a breaking point, it needs to keep the wings tho.
@@goku445 I'm familiar with fast, high stall speed models and coming in hot is something you both expect and plan for so I don't think it's unreasonable for this model to be the same way. I with you though agree that fibreglass is probably not the best material to use, especially as most high end hotliners these days are made with carbon fiber, often for every part of the body. And having a boom on a model which is going top come in and stop fast isn't a great idea either.
Not sure we'd be legally able to fly that in the UK as its over 100mph/161kph.
When will all these 3d printing dreamers realize it is not a strong option but with this aircraft they had no clue
“Fast fighter jet” shows a pic of the slowest “fighter jet” AV-8/harrier lol
In my point... So much instable flight...so much interference. So much fragile. But... Very nice wing design.
I dont know why but thus video is soo funny
I would be so pissed after the bungee launch smashed it up no way would I have fixed it after that!! way too much work.
Same here I would have thrown it away and not gone back
Dang thing thing looks so slick. I was hoping it wouldnt be garbage.
Is it that difficult to stay below 1000'?
Didn't go anwhere near 1000'. Legal limit here is 400'. However because I was flying on a hillside, occassionally as I flew up the hill the altitude would show as being above 400', relative to the take off point. The aircraft never actually went over 400', but was easier to just blot out the numbers than explain that in the video
So, it needs a small parachute die landing at the wing root
That bungee launch was pilot error. Never throw a plane up! Either in a hand launch or a bungee launch. When you do that it creates higher pressure above the wing and it makes it fly down. And the result is what you see here 8:40
When launching always throw straight forward to gain speed so the aircraft can create its own lift.
Also throwing down is a bad idea because it can create too much lift and crash too.
why not flaperons?
In the future, instead of an axe, use a dremel to install the servo's.
A great little plane, however, bungee launching is always a no-go.
Maybe landing, cathing it in a hanging blanket.
They could send one to me to review... I won't crash it.