Thanks for watching! Video chapters can be found in the description. For a summary of everything shown, along with a bunch of tunes I've made, check out the Ultimate Guide Cheat Sheet here: docs.google.com/document/d/10mhPkPcvtET5pGUwy7YTL6pPjPqKUMwZm9MZ3CgnHKE/edit?usp=sharing Some extra notes: - While there's no way to view a car's weight balance in-game, the data for all cars in the game have been extracted thanks to the effort of reverse-engineers. I made a spreadsheet that queries SpecDB (the car info database, included with Nenkai's GT4SaveEditor) and gives a summary of each car's data here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DtAPfe5YhuQ4p1mdoPcVAMF5NzzpZ7Jb0Q0gUpl1sEQ/edit?usp=sharing - I discovered after making this video that each car has hidden grip modifiers for front and rear. For example, the SL 65 AMG I used for the FR drivetrain example has grip modifiers of 990 / 1050, meaning the rear tyres have far more grip in corners than the front. Another example is the RX-7 FD: the pre-facelift models have equal grip modifiers on front and rear, while the facelift models have more rear grip, meaning they feel much more stiff in corners. There's no way to see or adjust these in-game (they're in the spreadsheet linked above, divided by 10 for simplicity), so you usually have to work around them when tuning a car. - Each car also has a hidden "yaw" value that decreases when you purchase weight reductions. Less yaw gives the car a sharper turn radius. Adding a ballast to the car appears to leave its yaw unchanged, however, meaning that purchasing weight reductions and adding a ballast afterwards has benefits beyond adjusting the car's balance. - Equipping an LSD on a GT-R will also override ATTESA, so avoid equipping both the LSD and VCD controller so the car is easier to turn. However, if you'd like to use a GT-R for dirt/snow, equipping them both is ideal for improved stability and traction. The M-spec Nur is an excellent rally car when tuned properly, check out the cheat sheet for my settings. - The MX-5 Miata I used as an example of 50 : 50 weight balance isn't actually 50 : 50, it's 55 : 45. Only the Miata 1600 NR-A and 1800 RS '00 and '04 have a 50 : 50 weight balance. - Almost all 4WD race cars will come with a VCD controller pre-installed (along with most Subaru Impreza's), so remember to lower the front distribution alongside the front LSD to reduce understeer while exiting corners. - One more way to reduce understeer: if you're driving in manual, gearing down mid-corner will enable a sharper turn-in. Try to avoid gearing down too early though, or the car will bounce off the rev limiter and its engine braking will be less effective. Remember to gear back up as you're exiting the corner to prevent oversteer or wheelspin. - The Toyota 7 is incapable of reaching high speeds as it has a very high "drag" stat of 50 (from a range of 18 to 60), forcing heavy wind resistance at 200mph+. This is why gearing up to 4th would have slowed the car down. One of the main goals with the 3-speed setup was to make sure that the car can hold a high speed in 3rd gear while also having a decent launch in 1st.
@@Wirenfeldt1990 I tried it, doesn't seem like it worked. I really don't understand what's going on, they've never worked on any of my videos no matter what I try. The chapters appear fine in TH-cam Studio and Google search results, it's just in the player where they don't appear.
Really great tuning guide. Gran Turismo 4 was released in a time where you couldn't really easily post video footage compared to nowadays it's more affordable, so a lot of text guides were written back in the day but not video guides, so it's great to see video guides like this. The video overlays you show are always good examples too!
Thank you, glad to hear you enjoyed it! Indeed, the text guides were invaluable back in the day, but it was difficult to visualise how each part or setting affects the car from words alone. Research has also become much easier in recent years as well, with tools like emulation save states and Nenkai's GT4 save editor letting you quickly test and edit car parameters. I think the community is beginning to understand these games more than ever before, and it'll be interesting to see where things go from here.
This is a really useful guide, it covers everything people need to start playing with these sliders. For anyone who's discouraged of trying setups, I say, don't. It's fun and you'll be able to drive cars you never considered competitive before!
Thank you! Yep, it's not too difficult once you start off small and work your way up. Even just adding rear camber and adjusting the height makes a big difference for most cars. I'm sure Purplebird would agree as well.
Fully agree. Even with just the weight ballast added to the rear, the Lancer Evo 1 drove much better than I initially imagined it would. Adding properly tuned suspension on top of that and the 4WD Challenge became a breeze, no power upgrades needed. Definitely gonna continue messing with all my cars because I have clearly missed out on this tuning experience
I began playing Gran Turismo 4 thanks to your Ultimate Guide and have been having an amazing time but sometimes Tuning was quite daunting and felt I was doing an average job at it. With this guide and you covering in a comprehensive yet smooth way it makes me want to experiment and tune cars better to improve them much more. Thank you so much for your hard work and dedication for these guides, also seeing the Toyota 7 being tamed and becoming reliable was quite the spectacle.
Glad I was able to help and provide motivation! Yeah, personally I feel like GT4 becomes a completely different experience once you come to terms with its physics and tuning system. I've had a lot of fun over the past few weeks trying out random cars and tuning them to the limit. Hopefully it works out for you as well.
Non commentary is really class! Sadly its not the preferred format of TH-cam anymore but I love being able to read the info at my own pace. Keep doing what you’re doing! Its great.
Thank you, I'm glad you appreciate the format I use! I originally began using this text format because I'm self-conscious about my voice, but I then found that it makes it easier to 'download' the information given when you're reading it, rather than listening to it. Voiceover content can allow for much faster content delivery, but it also makes it much easier to turn off your brain or multitask half-way. I guess there's advantages and disadvantages to both formats, but I'll stick with what I'm doing for now.
I grabbed my ps2 out of storage and started GT4 from the ground up. It’s been a while and hell, I even learned some new things from this guide! Thanks again!
I really appreciated the ending section of you taking two cars, seeing what’s the issue with them, and trying to troubleshoot out the issues with the handling while giving reason behind them. Super informative yet again and really a helpful guide c:
Glad to hear! One of the main pieces of feedback I got for the GT4 guide was that there was no 'tuning process' walk-through like in the GT2 guide, so I made sure to focus on it more this time around.
As far as launch goes, I discovered when using manual gears the game will let you start from 2nd off the line. Helped the launch with a couple cars that were otherwise bogged down or too wheelspiny without having to buy any upgrades. You also generally aren't in 1st gear and it seems like most races are rolling starts.
I customised the settings on the Suzuki Escudo and drastically changed how it handled, before I did it I could manage an approx 6 mins 40 (might be even slower than that) iirc on the Nurburgring, but with the tuning I applied I got it down to 5 mins 50 where I ran out of skill to go faster, but the car was easily capable of a 5 mins 40 if not faster. The Escudo in GT4 is notorious for being almost impossible to turn at any speed faster than continental drift, but I got it to the point where I could outpace cars like the R390, R89, GT-One, and CLK-GTR (AI driven that is) without struggling. The same is true of the Ruf CTR2 and BTR, both obnoxiously difficult cars to drive when stock, but after careful tuning are a lot of fun to drive and really quick. Great guide in any case, I'll have take what I've learned from it and give it a go, as some cars are just hateful in stock form. p.s You can globally set ASM and TCS in the games options menu (in PAL version at least) this way you don't have to try and remember it for each car, I can't remember where they are exactly, but they might be under Race settings where you switch to manual transmission as well.
I found TeaKanji's settings had too much snap oversteer, so try these settings instead if you want a fast escudo that's a bit more forgiving. After a bit of work I got a 5'25.048, it took about 20 attempts to string together a lap, but there's room for a 5'22 or less with a more talented driver. The settings and parts I used are as follows: Tyres R5/Qualify NOS +70 Stage 4 turbo Brake balance 5/3 Suspension; SR 6.5/6.5 RH 100/100 DB 3/4 DR 5/6 Cam 2.0/1.5 Toe 0/0 Stabilisers 4/5 Gearbox as per TeaKanji's document. ASM 0 TCS 1 Downforce 50/65 LSD Init 5/10 Accell 5/15 Decell 25/60 VCD 10 This produces a car with a moderate amount of understeer compared to TeaKanji, but much less snap oversteer, and what is there is much easier to recover from, and for reference this is on all original hardware with a DS2.
@@PaulTheFox1988 Interesting setup. I happened to be trying to make an Escudo drivable last night and ended up with a wildly different suspension setup, so I'll compare yours and see how it feels. I also had to set the LSDs much lower since it felt like even 5 init and 15 accel/decel was severely hurting its ability to turn. Mine might be a lot different since I tried to keep a lot more (35%) torque going to the front wheels since its biggest strength is the strong acceleration if it can actually put its power to the road.
@@MrNukealizer give it a go, although you might not like it, tbh it could still do with some work to properly deal with the snap oversteer and moderate understeer, but it's the best I could come up with. I tend to prefer a more neutral handling set up with a slight tendency towards understeer under hard acceleration, but the escudo is such a strange beast that this is as close as I've ever gotten it to that ideal. Edit: setting the VCD too high on road circuits makes almost all 4wd cars understeer heavily no matter what you do to the rest of the settings. The escudo even with 50% torque split still struggles to get the power down, but will never turn quickly if it's more than about 15%, so don't be afraid to whack all the torque to the rear wheels, you'll find it turns way easier and you won't lose much on acceleration. Also, with my settings, try to avoid suddenly letting off the throttle when turning as that's when it snap oversteers, it's mostly noticeable on high speed turns where lifting off is needed rather than braking.
@@PaulTheFox1988 I tried your setup and didn't particularly like it. The suspension seems pretty good, but the LSDs are way too stiff for my liking and it can't accelerate as well as mine with the 10% VCD. My setup also has the snap oversteer problem (especially when braking while turning) but has less understeer. My settings are as follows. Tires: R5 Nitrous: 40 Turbo: Stage 4 Brake balance: 5/2 Suspension: SR: 6/5 RH: 100/120 Bound: 5/3 Rebound: 7/6 Camber: 2.2/1.8 Toe: -2/0 Stabilizers: 4/5 Transmission (I didn't know about the gear trick so I'll probably redo it): 1st: 6.239 2nd: 3.800 3rd: 2.600 4th: 1.850 5th: 1.397 6th: 1.073 Final: 2.760 ASM: 0/0 TCS: 2 Downforce: 50/65 LSD Init: 5/5 LSD Accel: 5/8 LSD Decel: 8/10 VCD: 35 The suspension settings on the Escudo seem very hard to get right, because you want a fair bit of weight transfer for better turning and grip when accelerating, yet it's disastrous if the weight shifts to the front too suddenly while turning. The best solution I've found is to have the rear a bit higher with softer springs so that the car naturally leans forward a bit but can shift weight to the rear under acceleration. That also seems to help keep the rear down during bumps and heavy braking, making oversteer less unpredictable.
@@MrNukealizer I didn't think you'd like it, but I wonder if a combination of our two set ups might be worth trying? I'll give yours a go later and see how it handles, and then try combining them. Shifting weight forward generally makes the car more stable (ie understeer) and in theory having softer rear springs will make the front go light under hard acceleration, which should also make it more stable on the exits of corners, so I wonder if doing those things defeats the purpose of adjusting the settings to produce less understeer, and you're having to compensate for it with the other settings, which then contributes to snap oversteer? I might be wrong though, and I need to test your settings to see what it actually does to the handling. So much to think about with this car, like I say, it's a weird beast and hard to get right Edit: I tried your settings and really didn't like it, so I played around and I think I might have a combination that works well, basically take all of your settings, use TeaKanji's gearbox settings, and increase the LSD decel to 8/20 or 7/21 The car still has a fair bit of understeer, more than I think you would want, but the snap oversteer is almost completely eliminated, and with those settings I got a 5'18.211, 6.8 seconds faster than my previous best, and with more talent could do a sub 5'17
Thank you, glad you appreciate it! I spend a lot of time thinking about how to explain all of these concepts and phenomena as simply as possible, so I'm glad to hear it's paying off.
Getting back into Gran Turismo for the first time since I was a kid (last one i played was 3) and after a quick search it seemed most people consider 4 to be the best, I thought I may as well pick up where I left off. These guides have been immeasurably helpful to me, thanks for all this effort you put into them man
@@longhairedanon One step ahead of you chief, already sorted that all out haha, the trigger cheat for throttle/break control is a gamechanger, was also surprised how good the online is. No lag/desync at all
Glad to hear the guides have helped out! GT4 is the popular choice for sure, but I feel that all of the retro GT games are worth experiencing. They each have their own identity and learning curve when it comes to physics and handling, and while some have better progression than others, they're all fun once you know your way around them. Have fun diving into them.
I honestly can't thank you enough for this. For all my life how i played is either B-spec or "slap the biggest turbo and pray to God it can still steer". After watching this and starting a fresh save, i found back lost joy from using cars that i thought weren't viable *I won the NA cup in the Dodge RAM LARAMIE truck* That truck still isn't the best handling car there is for it's a truck, but i can tell that it behaves a lot like what i wanted it to be So thanks, man. Really appreciated for your efforts 👍
This is amazingly informative, and an invaluable resource for someone like me, who wants to tune cars in GT4 but never really got the hang of it due to its complexity and lack of in-game explanations. The examples at the end really help drive the points home, I rewatched them a few times. One suggestion I have is making a few separate videos that transform cars using your techniques, like taming the oversteer-heavy Dodge Viper and winning the All American Championship vs the notorious Chapparal 2J, or turning the Nissan R92CP from burning tires fast to lasting longer than the competition.
Glad it's helping out! Re: the suggestion, that was kind of the intention with my supercar builds video in particular yeah, showing how the tips here can be applied to high-powered cars to reduce understeer, wheelspin and tyre wear. Most of those setups should work fine with racing tyres. The Vipers are actually quite understeer-prone IMO, their high torque on corner exit can be fixed with gear setup. I might do something for LMP's/Group C's one day, we'll see.
This is a very helpful guide to getting players unfamiliar with the deeper, more realistic handling model compared to the previous 3 Gran Turismos. Top notch!
I just started GT4 after many years tempted by the notorious randomizer mod experience (still haunting for a prize truck tho...). I'm trying a no car buy run, and upgrades only wing and tires, with some exceptions when car in use is too underpowered, but still keeping tuning mild to keep it challenging. So, setup becomes very relevant. I very noticed how a little change in weight and aero balance can already do a good difference. Now with your guide I'm looking to understand how I can extract the most from the suspension in this game. P.S. I always despised rally in GT4, and when younger I cheated the hell out of it because I couldn't sustain a clean drive. Now I'm forcing myself to drive how it is supposed to do, and man, it's hard. I even won one of the best rally machines (Peugeot 205 gr.B) but I fell in love with a car I even didn't know existed: the Hyundai Clix. This weird shaped box is a 4wd nimble machine with ~300cv, you should give it a try in rally races.
Sounds interesting, definitely you can go really far with just the ballast and rear wing alone, for controlling the car's weight balance and front and rear tyre grip. Hope the video helps out! And cool, I think I tried the Clix a while back but I don't remember much about it, I'll give it a proper go and see how I get on.
Incredible video mate! Your ability to summarise the massively complex and expansive subject that is GT4's driving physics is seriously impressive, and not only that, but the way you were able to explain each key factor in an easily understandable way, along with giving examples of what you're speaking about, ALL WHILE KEEPING A CONSISTANT PACE mind you. I'm blown away by the effort in this video. It was so informative, so well-made and engaging to watch, I can't commend you enough. I hope this video is seen by every Gran Turismo 4 player who has any queries about the handling model of the game, because I haven't seen a better answer to any question someone could have, and I don't think it's possible to make a video that tops this one. I've got to read through the Ultimate Guide Cheat Sheet now, looking forward to it. Seriously, thank you for making this video. It's unbelievably great. Cheers mate 👍👍
Wow, after all these years, i never thought id actually see the Toyota-7 be competitive! When i was younger i thought it'd never win a race! It was such a difficult car for me to tune back in the day!
Thank you! I'll see what I can do; I feel like this video and the Ultimate Guide cover most of what I wanted to share about GT4, but maybe I'll find inspiration to make something else.
the only real times i did tuning in this game was gearing for when i upgrade cars like the subaru 360 and such so they actually be fast, and with the ac cobra when i had to change a bit of stuff so the car wouldnt try to oversteer on me
Man, with this guide along with the other one, I had a blast tuning cars on this game, which I have almost never done. I'm currently trying to get the RUF BTR to have no lift-off oversteer, as it will be used for the Boxer Spirit event, which I remember it will involve the Nordschleife.
Glad to hear! Tuned to around 550hp, you should be able to tame the BTR's oversteer with gear setup and a light LSD Acceleration setting. I put a tune for it in the cheat sheet if you need something to work with; it still rolls a bit and needs careful driving, but that's to be expected from an RR I suppose.
@@BlackRockStella For the 80's RUFs, especially the BTR and the Yellowbird, because of their engine placement, with the engine being directly over the rear wheels, you want to generally try *not* to go off-throttle during cornering as this shifts the weight forward and off the rear-wheels, which for the BTR with its sharp turbocharged engine response can make the weight shift suddenly and quickly like a pendulum, which is what wipes a lot of drivers out with these cars. One secret is that with MR/RR drivetrain cars, simply keeping throttle mid-corner and modulating does a lot to help keep the chassis stable and balanced. You also just want to naturally try to not induce excess body roll in general with these cars. This works well for every mid/rear-engine car I've driven, although suspension and drivetrain tuning also work well to fight against the oversteer of course. For twitchy mid/rear-engine cars, you can also increase Initial LSD Torque to reduce their twitchiness during direction change/cornering.
Dude, thank you. Having this content at 2023, and free...what a blessing! Such a relaxing and well made video! 👏 Edit: btw, i have a doubt... I have a DS4 to play on my PS2 and it's analog sticks feel kinda sensitive with some cars. I got used to it, but it would be better if it wasn't that way. So, if i change the values of the spring rate, will it maybe make the car less 'sensitive' to smaller adjustments? Without losing the ability to turn, ideally?
Happy to help, thank you! Hmm, yeah, there might be some weird analog sensitivity stuff going on with using a DS4 with a PS2. Stiff spring rates will prevent swings of weight transfer from sudden turns, yeah, though the car's corner entry handling will noticeably worsen. Raising the front camber should also help a lot, it's how I always fixed sensitivity issues in GT1. Best thing to do might be switching to a different controller and comparing to see if the sensitivity is better, though.
8:50- Wow, I never had experimented with the ballast during my last playthrough, but using your ideas I put a ballast toward the front on my very understeer loving Celica GT-Four 98 and it stayed on the road much better. Even Bspec Granny was able to keep it on the road on Suzuka East without flying on the road once staying on 4 for over 10 laps, lol
That's interesting, the Celica is quite front-heavy by default with a 60:40 weight distribution so that explains the understeer. 4WD is by far the most difficult drivetrain to tune in GT4 IMO, since even a small change to spring rates, downforce or weight distribution can cause massive stability issues entering corners. I haven't tried tuning the '98 GT-Four yet, but I'm curious to give it a try now. It was surprisingly good in GT3 because it had adjustable front and rear downforce (one of the only road cars in the game that had it), so it was glued in corners with some setup. I've heard that inducing understeer makes B-spec way more predictable, so it makes sense the front ballast helped a lot there.
Yeah, the GT Four was way better in GT3 I remember. I still don't think I have it quite tuned right in GT4. And I have a big problem with it eating up the front tires as well in races.@@TeaKanji
@@Skyhurricane89 yeah, I almost always go for sports mediums on front and softs on rear for 4WD's to balance out the wear a bit. The combination does cause understeer, but you can tune it out to an extent by softening the springs, setting the VCD to 10 and adding weight to the rear to make it more nimble. Basically what I had to do to make the Ram drivable for my last video. Unequipping any LSD upgrades can also allow the car to turn into corners easier, but personally I prefer the stability that the custom LSD provides, even at lowest settings (with the exception of Skyline GT-R's).
Yeah, I played around with the Celica and used Sports Hard on the front and medium on the rear. Tweaked the suspension for oversteer and VCD to 10. I found that it was best to just take off the LSD completely as any settings I did made the car understeer more. @@TeaKanji
The car stayed on the road better with a 30kg-50kg ballast on the front. If I put any ballast at all on the rear it wouldn't stay on the road. This one is difficult to get right. I had tuned an Impreza a few weeks ago and it was much easier to get right.
You have load balance wrong. More load over an axle relative to the other increases that axle's linear inertia relative to the other, but due to tire load sensitivity effects, the more loaded axle becomes less efficient than the less loaded one, resulting in less grip on the more loaded axle. It's why lighter cars turn better than heavy cars. Longitudinally the linear inertia is the same due to the axis running through both axles, so loading an axle gives it *more* longitudinal grip relative to the other; opposite of lateral.
I'm not sure I understand, since GT4 doesn't have racing modifications; are you talking about the RACINGMODIFY table in SpecDB? That's where the car's downforce and wind drag data is stored.
If you're driving a car on Test Course and it suddenly starts going 190 189 188 187 186 185 and keeps dropping in speed, how do you fix it? Note: it is not just buying full custom drivetrain and setting it to 25, i already do that on these cars
Hey homs, Thank you for this Excellent explanations, but these information that you give, is a little bit confusing. So i will love a tuning for a car. It the MAZDA RX-7 TYPE R (FD, J) please. So can you do it for me?
A question: If I adjust the weight balance with 0 ballast, it causes any effect? Because when I put the weight balance to more rear, I feel the car with more grip in the rear without need of ballast
Great guides, do you have any suggestions for winning the GT World Championship with the CLK GTR? I feel the car is very challenging to setup and even the one provided in the cheat sheet is too understeery and stiff.
Thank you! Yeah, the CLK GTR was one of the most difficult cars for me to tune. It just doesn't have enough rear wheel grip since it has less downforce than the LMP's, and its tyre wear rates are below-average as well. I mainly tuned the car at El Capitan, so it probably feels a bit understeery since I was doing what I could to keep it stable. On flat tracks, you can try raising the front downforce slightly for a bit of extra turn-in. Most important thing if you want to secure a win is to re-roll for a favourable line-up. If a Sauber or Minolta is in pole, you're going to struggle to catch up on a lot of tracks. You probably won't win every race (sometimes the LMP's don't pit at all on El Capitan which is annoying) but you can secure a points lead pretty easily if the line-up is balanced.
Ah, hehe, yeah, I had RetroAchievements enabled and forgot to disable it as I was recording. It's pretty easy to set up if you make an account, then log in using the PCSX2 1.7 nightly build.
I'm having a hard time in Tuning Car Grand Prix with R32 GTS-t Type M albeit highly upgraded often gets passed by that Opera S2000 which almost always keeps 1st position no matter what. Any recommendations for tuning this Specific Car for this event and especially against that Opera S2000?
The AI in that championship are on racing mediums, and the Opera S2000 has insane amounts of grip due to its chassis grip modifiers. Beating it with the R32 is going to be really difficult, as it's quite average stats-wise. Tuning-wise, it's a regular FR affair: max downforce, springs in the 6.0 - 8.0 region, 2 bounds 5 rebounds, 1.4 / 1.4 camber, maybe a 110 / 100 ride height and a rear ballast of around 60 - 80kg would work (it has a 55 : 45 weight distribution). You might be able to afford running soft racing tyres, but keep an eye on the rear tyres and make sure the gears aren't too short so they don't wear out really quickly while exiting sharp corners.
@@TeaKanji Okay I will try using the ballast, softer tyres and maybe change suspension settings a bit. I'am using a R32 because of the challenge and so far Its been fun. Appreciate the reply and thanks for video and spreadsheet guides.
If I understand the question correctly, it's somewhat an "episode 1.5" of the guide, going into much more detail on tuning, but at the same time, it's its own thing. I wanted to make sure that someone new to the channel could watch this video without having seen the guide first.
It's basically a measure to prevent wheelspin, reduce tyre wear/fuel consumption, and reduce gear shifts on techncial tracks. I kind of go over my thinking behind it in the Toyota 7 example. Basically I try to find a 1st gear that's long enough to smoothly exit corners without wheelspin, but not too slow to the point where the car stalls on slower tracks like Opera Paris. The rest of the gears end up being unreachable, but that's generally not much of an issue. If you're comfortable driving in MT, you can replace my gear setups with the 'super close pattern' in the gear patterns section. That way, 1st gear can be used only for emergencies if you spin out and you need to rev up quickly, you can launch and exit corners in 2nd gear, and you can have small RPM drops from 3rd onwards so the car is always in the power band on long straights. For the tune list, I usually try to make 1st gear usable so AT drivers can use the the tunes without killing the rear tyres.
I finally got to the end of the video. Indeed the 3 speed lmp was a surprise but there is already one in the game. I'll be doing some drag races to see how much speed is lost by using this trick but it doesn't seem to make the car much slower.@@TeaKanji
@@JessicaMorgani Yeah, it depends if TCS is enabled or not. Running a short 1st gear and letting TCS handle the wheelspin is going to be faster than this 3-speed setup in the 0-1000m, but you need to be driving in MT to avoid dropping to 1st in sharp corners and wearing the tyres really quickly. I find this setup makes the car more forgiving to drive, and keeps the rear tyres cool enough so they don't lose traction as the front tyres begin to wear.
Teakanji can you help me figure how to calculate power to weight or how much torque is nessecary for moving a vehicle of a certain weight. I want to tune the gear ratio just right to make the vehicle weight. Math-Wise
In GT4? There is no math to it, it's pretty much a guessing game. The game doesn't give you enough details about the car's weight and whatnot to make any sort of "definitive" gear ratio setup. On top of that, you'd need to factor in the car's tyre grip as well. Trial and error is unfortunately the easiest way from my experience.
@@TeaKanji I recently playing formula GT event. But now I'm struggling in Nurburgring 15 laps with my Audi R8 race car. The problem is when I playing in arcade mode, the car is stable while pushing around +300kmh but when I race in Gran Turismo mode, the car is likely unstable even I don't reach 300kmh.
Hehe, nah, I'm just a software dev with a lot of time on my hands. It's tough to give a simple way because there's so many small details that can make a difference. Each suspension, LSD and downforce setting can have a pretty massive effect on car handling. I guess the essentials though are: always set bounds to 2, rebounds to 5, rear camber to at least 1.4, front camber to 1.4 if the car feels too understeer-y, rear stabiliser to 7, downforce to max with the rear wing, ASM to 0, and TCS to 0 or 1 depending on the car.
I have an Alfa 147 GTA. It has 412 HP, i tuned the the handlings and thankfully it went better. But my problem is the brakes, the car twitches while i brake when turning. I don't know how to figure out because im afraid if i would ruin the handling tunes
I'm surprised you were able to make the 147 handle well with 412hp. I tried tuning it myself a while back, but only up to 276hp, because any more would have made it wheelspin like crazy. What are the springs and stabilisers set to? Does it have a ballast, and if so, where and how much?
@@muhammaddaffa3047 Ah, okay, yeah, the rear springs are probably too stiff and causing the imbalance entering corners. I always try to keep the rear springs within 0.5 of the front for FF's, or else they lose grip too easily when you let go of the throttle. There's no way to undo the rigidity increase, but it shouldn't cause any major issues as long as you keep the car's rigidity fresh.
@@TeaKanji ahh i see, i think the softest i tried so far was 4.0 and i think it wasnt really stable for my car. I raised it to 5.2 and it went a little bit stable. The car went uncontrollable as we reach the lowest speed during braking
I wish TCS wasn't so strong in this game. Even the minimum value can destroy a FF car cornering ability. I feel it was much more balanced in GT3. Now, about tuning, I'm still very insecure. I like to try out other people tunes and, if I like it, make very feel adjustments to suit me better. Without provided tunes, I try to adjust the car stability mainly with the tires and TCS so I don't fuck up with the settings, and if this is still not enough, that's where I try to go into the settings to see what I can do to fix the car. I also avoid the rear wing and NOS upgrades most of the time because they feel like cheats, and some cars looks really stupid with the spoiler. In the end though, I only use those cars in very specific events because I always feel has suboptimal performance without a proper tune.
Yeah, it's especially annoying when it's enabled in licence tests with no way to disable it. The "NOS is cheating" reputation is a interesting one that I've seen a lot while digging through forums; while I agree that it's overkill on cars that can already get 500hp+, it's also one of the only ways to make FF's competitive in this game. Almost feels like it was intended for the player to use it in the Suzuki Concepts manufacturer event, or else PD was just really bad at balancing. That's another thing yeah, the 'optimal' tune for a car often looks ridiculous aesthetically, with the front height raised up and a massive rear wing. I always drive in roof cam so it doesn't really bother me, but yeah, it can get very silly sometimes.
@@TeaKanji My problem with NOS is not about balancing issues, it's mainly because it's so unrealistic being allowed to use it in a race whereas in real life it is banned in basically any non-drag motorsport event. In the game, you can use it everywhere. I think that for small events like most one make races it is fine thought. The rear wing is worse; the fact you can adjust the FRONT downforce of a car with it makes me feel like it was PD's alternative to racing modifications not being present in the game.
Hey in your tuning guide for the Nissan R89C Race Car, you say put the final to 5.000 then to 2.000. For me it goes to 2.500, I can't get it lower. Is this a typo? Or different version of the game. I don't understand. I'm also on NTSC-U, Serial: SCUS-97328. Also it says v2.00 on my ISO lol. Anyway, thanks for all this in depth information, it's crazy how much effort you put into these videos.
That's probably a typo, my bad, sorry, I'll fix it when I get a chance tomorrow. Just in case you come across any other typos like that, the first final gear will always be all the way to the right, so basically you can set it as far left as it can go if the final doesn't match up. Let me know if you do find more typos though so I can fix them, of course. Thank you by the way, glad you appreciate it!
@@TeaKanji Ahh gotcha, I got the setup now. I'm going for 100% on this game to fulfill my childhood lol. I just beat mission 34 which was painful but only took 1 day of grinding, now ima use the prize for GTWC. Gunna be using your tunes and guides along the way.
Honestly, GT4 was designed for wheels. It never felt right with a controller, even to this day using PCSX2 with my sim wheel setup, stock setups for way less twitchy, and braking is so much more under control on front heavy FR cars. And putting wheel input into FWD cars under power without washing out on corner exit is so much better.
![ง้อ (ALRIGHT) - FOURTH Prod. by URBOYTJ [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qs8ZeV6Dqj8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching! Video chapters can be found in the description. For a summary of everything shown, along with a bunch of tunes I've made, check out the Ultimate Guide Cheat Sheet here: docs.google.com/document/d/10mhPkPcvtET5pGUwy7YTL6pPjPqKUMwZm9MZ3CgnHKE/edit?usp=sharing
Some extra notes:
- While there's no way to view a car's weight balance in-game, the data for all cars in the game have been extracted thanks to the effort of reverse-engineers. I made a spreadsheet that queries SpecDB (the car info database, included with Nenkai's GT4SaveEditor) and gives a summary of each car's data here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DtAPfe5YhuQ4p1mdoPcVAMF5NzzpZ7Jb0Q0gUpl1sEQ/edit?usp=sharing
- I discovered after making this video that each car has hidden grip modifiers for front and rear. For example, the SL 65 AMG I used for the FR drivetrain example has grip modifiers of 990 / 1050, meaning the rear tyres have far more grip in corners than the front. Another example is the RX-7 FD: the pre-facelift models have equal grip modifiers on front and rear, while the facelift models have more rear grip, meaning they feel much more stiff in corners. There's no way to see or adjust these in-game (they're in the spreadsheet linked above, divided by 10 for simplicity), so you usually have to work around them when tuning a car.
- Each car also has a hidden "yaw" value that decreases when you purchase weight reductions. Less yaw gives the car a sharper turn radius. Adding a ballast to the car appears to leave its yaw unchanged, however, meaning that purchasing weight reductions and adding a ballast afterwards has benefits beyond adjusting the car's balance.
- Equipping an LSD on a GT-R will also override ATTESA, so avoid equipping both the LSD and VCD controller so the car is easier to turn. However, if you'd like to use a GT-R for dirt/snow, equipping them both is ideal for improved stability and traction. The M-spec Nur is an excellent rally car when tuned properly, check out the cheat sheet for my settings.
- The MX-5 Miata I used as an example of 50 : 50 weight balance isn't actually 50 : 50, it's 55 : 45. Only the Miata 1600 NR-A and 1800 RS '00 and '04 have a 50 : 50 weight balance.
- Almost all 4WD race cars will come with a VCD controller pre-installed (along with most Subaru Impreza's), so remember to lower the front distribution alongside the front LSD to reduce understeer while exiting corners.
- One more way to reduce understeer: if you're driving in manual, gearing down mid-corner will enable a sharper turn-in. Try to avoid gearing down too early though, or the car will bounce off the rev limiter and its engine braking will be less effective. Remember to gear back up as you're exiting the corner to prevent oversteer or wheelspin.
- The Toyota 7 is incapable of reaching high speeds as it has a very high "drag" stat of 50 (from a range of 18 to 60), forcing heavy wind resistance at 200mph+. This is why gearing up to 4th would have slowed the car down. One of the main goals with the 3-speed setup was to make sure that the car can hold a high speed in 3rd gear while also having a decent launch in 1st.
I might be wrong, but if you remove the first 00. from your timestamps in the description i believe they wil embed themselves in the timeline
@@Wirenfeldt1990 I tried it, doesn't seem like it worked. I really don't understand what's going on, they've never worked on any of my videos no matter what I try. The chapters appear fine in TH-cam Studio and Google search results, it's just in the player where they don't appear.
Just asking on Gran Turismo 6 if the AWD system would Override also when Equipping the LSD and VCD together with the Mitsubishi Evos?
Really great tuning guide. Gran Turismo 4 was released in a time where you couldn't really easily post video footage compared to nowadays it's more affordable, so a lot of text guides were written back in the day but not video guides, so it's great to see video guides like this. The video overlays you show are always good examples too!
Thank you, glad to hear you enjoyed it! Indeed, the text guides were invaluable back in the day, but it was difficult to visualise how each part or setting affects the car from words alone. Research has also become much easier in recent years as well, with tools like emulation save states and Nenkai's GT4 save editor letting you quickly test and edit car parameters. I think the community is beginning to understand these games more than ever before, and it'll be interesting to see where things go from here.
It really is insane to think this game came out like 4 years before youtube. It still looks magnificent
@@junit7590youtube started out at 2004
This is a really useful guide, it covers everything people need to start playing with these sliders. For anyone who's discouraged of trying setups, I say, don't. It's fun and you'll be able to drive cars you never considered competitive before!
Thank you! Yep, it's not too difficult once you start off small and work your way up. Even just adding rear camber and adjusting the height makes a big difference for most cars. I'm sure Purplebird would agree as well.
Fully agree. Even with just the weight ballast added to the rear, the Lancer Evo 1 drove much better than I initially imagined it would. Adding properly tuned suspension on top of that and the 4WD Challenge became a breeze, no power upgrades needed. Definitely gonna continue messing with all my cars because I have clearly missed out on this tuning experience
I began playing Gran Turismo 4 thanks to your Ultimate Guide and have been having an amazing time but sometimes Tuning was quite daunting and felt I was doing an average job at it.
With this guide and you covering in a comprehensive yet smooth way it makes me want to experiment and tune cars better to improve them much more.
Thank you so much for your hard work and dedication for these guides, also seeing the Toyota 7 being tamed and becoming reliable was quite the spectacle.
Glad I was able to help and provide motivation! Yeah, personally I feel like GT4 becomes a completely different experience once you come to terms with its physics and tuning system. I've had a lot of fun over the past few weeks trying out random cars and tuning them to the limit. Hopefully it works out for you as well.
Non commentary is really class! Sadly its not the preferred format of TH-cam anymore but I love being able to read the info at my own pace. Keep doing what you’re doing! Its great.
Thank you, I'm glad you appreciate the format I use! I originally began using this text format because I'm self-conscious about my voice, but I then found that it makes it easier to 'download' the information given when you're reading it, rather than listening to it. Voiceover content can allow for much faster content delivery, but it also makes it much easier to turn off your brain or multitask half-way. I guess there's advantages and disadvantages to both formats, but I'll stick with what I'm doing for now.
It's almost like this video was meant for me. I've been struggling with understeer on my latest game.
I grabbed my ps2 out of storage and started GT4 from the ground up. It’s been a while and hell, I even learned some new things from this guide! Thanks again!
I really appreciated the ending section of you taking two cars, seeing what’s the issue with them, and trying to troubleshoot out the issues with the handling while giving reason behind them. Super informative yet again and really a helpful guide c:
Glad to hear! One of the main pieces of feedback I got for the GT4 guide was that there was no 'tuning process' walk-through like in the GT2 guide, so I made sure to focus on it more this time around.
As far as launch goes, I discovered when using manual gears the game will let you start from 2nd off the line. Helped the launch with a couple cars that were otherwise bogged down or too wheelspiny without having to buy any upgrades. You also generally aren't in 1st gear and it seems like most races are rolling starts.
I customised the settings on the Suzuki Escudo and drastically changed how it handled, before I did it I could manage an approx 6 mins 40 (might be even slower than that) iirc on the Nurburgring, but with the tuning I applied I got it down to 5 mins 50 where I ran out of skill to go faster, but the car was easily capable of a 5 mins 40 if not faster.
The Escudo in GT4 is notorious for being almost impossible to turn at any speed faster than continental drift, but I got it to the point where I could outpace cars like the R390, R89, GT-One, and CLK-GTR (AI driven that is) without struggling.
The same is true of the Ruf CTR2 and BTR, both obnoxiously difficult cars to drive when stock, but after careful tuning are a lot of fun to drive and really quick.
Great guide in any case, I'll have take what I've learned from it and give it a go, as some cars are just hateful in stock form.
p.s You can globally set ASM and TCS in the games options menu (in PAL version at least) this way you don't have to try and remember it for each car, I can't remember where they are exactly, but they might be under Race settings where you switch to manual transmission as well.
I found TeaKanji's settings had too much snap oversteer, so try these settings instead if you want a fast escudo that's a bit more forgiving.
After a bit of work I got a 5'25.048, it took about 20 attempts to string together a lap, but there's room for a 5'22 or less with a more talented driver.
The settings and parts I used are as follows:
Tyres R5/Qualify
NOS +70
Stage 4 turbo
Brake balance 5/3
Suspension;
SR 6.5/6.5
RH 100/100
DB 3/4
DR 5/6
Cam 2.0/1.5
Toe 0/0
Stabilisers 4/5
Gearbox as per TeaKanji's document.
ASM 0
TCS 1
Downforce 50/65
LSD Init 5/10
Accell 5/15
Decell 25/60
VCD 10
This produces a car with a moderate amount of understeer compared to TeaKanji, but much less snap oversteer, and what is there is much easier to recover from, and for reference this is on all original hardware with a DS2.
@@PaulTheFox1988 Interesting setup. I happened to be trying to make an Escudo drivable last night and ended up with a wildly different suspension setup, so I'll compare yours and see how it feels. I also had to set the LSDs much lower since it felt like even 5 init and 15 accel/decel was severely hurting its ability to turn. Mine might be a lot different since I tried to keep a lot more (35%) torque going to the front wheels since its biggest strength is the strong acceleration if it can actually put its power to the road.
@@MrNukealizer give it a go, although you might not like it, tbh it could still do with some work to properly deal with the snap oversteer and moderate understeer, but it's the best I could come up with.
I tend to prefer a more neutral handling set up with a slight tendency towards understeer under hard acceleration, but the escudo is such a strange beast that this is as close as I've ever gotten it to that ideal.
Edit: setting the VCD too high on road circuits makes almost all 4wd cars understeer heavily no matter what you do to the rest of the settings.
The escudo even with 50% torque split still struggles to get the power down, but will never turn quickly if it's more than about 15%, so don't be afraid to whack all the torque to the rear wheels, you'll find it turns way easier and you won't lose much on acceleration.
Also, with my settings, try to avoid suddenly letting off the throttle when turning as that's when it snap oversteers, it's mostly noticeable on high speed turns where lifting off is needed rather than braking.
@@PaulTheFox1988 I tried your setup and didn't particularly like it. The suspension seems pretty good, but the LSDs are way too stiff for my liking and it can't accelerate as well as mine with the 10% VCD. My setup also has the snap oversteer problem (especially when braking while turning) but has less understeer. My settings are as follows.
Tires: R5
Nitrous: 40
Turbo: Stage 4
Brake balance: 5/2
Suspension:
SR: 6/5
RH: 100/120
Bound: 5/3
Rebound: 7/6
Camber: 2.2/1.8
Toe: -2/0
Stabilizers: 4/5
Transmission (I didn't know about the gear trick so I'll probably redo it):
1st: 6.239
2nd: 3.800
3rd: 2.600
4th: 1.850
5th: 1.397
6th: 1.073
Final: 2.760
ASM: 0/0
TCS: 2
Downforce: 50/65
LSD Init: 5/5
LSD Accel: 5/8
LSD Decel: 8/10
VCD: 35
The suspension settings on the Escudo seem very hard to get right, because you want a fair bit of weight transfer for better turning and grip when accelerating, yet it's disastrous if the weight shifts to the front too suddenly while turning. The best solution I've found is to have the rear a bit higher with softer springs so that the car naturally leans forward a bit but can shift weight to the rear under acceleration. That also seems to help keep the rear down during bumps and heavy braking, making oversteer less unpredictable.
@@MrNukealizer I didn't think you'd like it, but I wonder if a combination of our two set ups might be worth trying?
I'll give yours a go later and see how it handles, and then try combining them.
Shifting weight forward generally makes the car more stable (ie understeer) and in theory having softer rear springs will make the front go light under hard acceleration, which should also make it more stable on the exits of corners, so I wonder if doing those things defeats the purpose of adjusting the settings to produce less understeer, and you're having to compensate for it with the other settings, which then contributes to snap oversteer?
I might be wrong though, and I need to test your settings to see what it actually does to the handling.
So much to think about with this car, like I say, it's a weird beast and hard to get right
Edit: I tried your settings and really didn't like it, so I played around and I think I might have a combination that works well, basically take all of your settings, use TeaKanji's gearbox settings, and increase the LSD decel to 8/20 or 7/21
The car still has a fair bit of understeer, more than I think you would want, but the snap oversteer is almost completely eliminated, and with those settings I got a 5'18.211, 6.8 seconds faster than my previous best, and with more talent could do a sub 5'17
Your written English is really good. Very clear and concise. Just something I really appreciate.
Thank you, glad you appreciate it! I spend a lot of time thinking about how to explain all of these concepts and phenomena as simply as possible, so I'm glad to hear it's paying off.
Getting back into Gran Turismo for the first time since I was a kid (last one i played was 3) and after a quick search it seemed most people consider 4 to be the best, I thought I may as well pick up where I left off. These guides have been immeasurably helpful to me, thanks for all this effort you put into them man
There are patches for GT4 that upscale the textures, UI, and you can apply the superior chase cam from GT3. As well as GT4 Online!
@@longhairedanon One step ahead of you chief, already sorted that all out haha, the trigger cheat for throttle/break control is a gamechanger, was also surprised how good the online is. No lag/desync at all
Glad to hear the guides have helped out! GT4 is the popular choice for sure, but I feel that all of the retro GT games are worth experiencing. They each have their own identity and learning curve when it comes to physics and handling, and while some have better progression than others, they're all fun once you know your way around them. Have fun diving into them.
I honestly can't thank you enough for this. For all my life how i played is either B-spec or "slap the biggest turbo and pray to God it can still steer".
After watching this and starting a fresh save, i found back lost joy from using cars that i thought weren't viable
*I won the NA cup in the Dodge RAM LARAMIE truck*
That truck still isn't the best handling car there is for it's a truck, but i can tell that it behaves a lot like what i wanted it to be
So thanks, man. Really appreciated for your efforts 👍
Glad to hear it helped out, thank you! It's amazing how this game unravels the more you dig into it for sure.
This is amazingly informative, and an invaluable resource for someone like me, who wants to tune cars in GT4 but never really got the hang of it due to its complexity and lack of in-game explanations. The examples at the end really help drive the points home, I rewatched them a few times.
One suggestion I have is making a few separate videos that transform cars using your techniques, like taming the oversteer-heavy Dodge Viper and winning the All American Championship vs the notorious Chapparal 2J, or turning the Nissan R92CP from burning tires fast to lasting longer than the competition.
Glad it's helping out! Re: the suggestion, that was kind of the intention with my supercar builds video in particular yeah, showing how the tips here can be applied to high-powered cars to reduce understeer, wheelspin and tyre wear. Most of those setups should work fine with racing tyres. The Vipers are actually quite understeer-prone IMO, their high torque on corner exit can be fixed with gear setup. I might do something for LMP's/Group C's one day, we'll see.
I've started GT4 after completing GT3 and GT concept but i was suffering about understeer but this video helped me A lot!
Thank you!
This is a very helpful guide to getting players unfamiliar with the deeper, more realistic handling model compared to the previous 3 Gran Turismos. Top notch!
Thank you, glad to hear it's serving its purpose!
Always is nice to watch your tutorials, they can allow enjoy and know some technical info from Gran Turismo games. Thanks a lot mate!
Glad you've been enjoying them, thank you!
I just started GT4 after many years tempted by the notorious randomizer mod experience (still haunting for a prize truck tho...). I'm trying a no car buy run, and upgrades only wing and tires, with some exceptions when car in use is too underpowered, but still keeping tuning mild to keep it challenging.
So, setup becomes very relevant. I very noticed how a little change in weight and aero balance can already do a good difference. Now with your guide I'm looking to understand how I can extract the most from the suspension in this game.
P.S. I always despised rally in GT4, and when younger I cheated the hell out of it because I couldn't sustain a clean drive.
Now I'm forcing myself to drive how it is supposed to do, and man, it's hard. I even won one of the best rally machines (Peugeot 205 gr.B) but I fell in love with a car I even didn't know existed: the Hyundai Clix. This weird shaped box is a 4wd nimble machine with ~300cv, you should give it a try in rally races.
Sounds interesting, definitely you can go really far with just the ballast and rear wing alone, for controlling the car's weight balance and front and rear tyre grip. Hope the video helps out! And cool, I think I tried the Clix a while back but I don't remember much about it, I'll give it a proper go and see how I get on.
Incredible video mate! Your ability to summarise the massively complex and expansive subject that is GT4's driving physics is seriously impressive, and not only that, but the way you were able to explain each key factor in an easily understandable way, along with giving examples of what you're speaking about, ALL WHILE KEEPING A CONSISTANT PACE mind you. I'm blown away by the effort in this video. It was so informative, so well-made and engaging to watch, I can't commend you enough. I hope this video is seen by every Gran Turismo 4 player who has any queries about the handling model of the game, because I haven't seen a better answer to any question someone could have, and I don't think it's possible to make a video that tops this one.
I've got to read through the Ultimate Guide Cheat Sheet now, looking forward to it.
Seriously, thank you for making this video. It's unbelievably great.
Cheers mate 👍👍
That's very flattering, thank you!
Wow, after all these years, i never thought id actually see the Toyota-7 be competitive! When i was younger i thought it'd never win a race! It was such a difficult car for me to tune back in the day!
Lovely video man! Your in depth knowledge of the GT games is beyond impressive! Thanks for the content!
Thank you, glad you appreciate the content! Happy to help wherever I can.
Great video as always! I would like to see more gt4 content like this! :)
Thank you! I'll see what I can do; I feel like this video and the Ultimate Guide cover most of what I wanted to share about GT4, but maybe I'll find inspiration to make something else.
the only real times i did tuning in this game was gearing for when i upgrade cars like the subaru 360 and such so they actually be fast, and with the ac cobra when i had to change a bit of stuff so the car wouldnt try to oversteer on me
3:54
holy moly
Man, the GT6 menu music brings back some good memories... RIP GT6 Online :(
Really good teaching and well explained my friend.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed!
Man, with this guide along with the other one, I had a blast tuning cars on this game, which I have almost never done.
I'm currently trying to get the RUF BTR to have no lift-off oversteer, as it will be used for the Boxer Spirit event, which I remember it will involve the Nordschleife.
Glad to hear! Tuned to around 550hp, you should be able to tame the BTR's oversteer with gear setup and a light LSD Acceleration setting. I put a tune for it in the cheat sheet if you need something to work with; it still rolls a bit and needs careful driving, but that's to be expected from an RR I suppose.
@@TeaKanji Just tested your tuning, and I gotta say,
I'm in love with it.
@@BlackRockStella For the 80's RUFs, especially the BTR and the Yellowbird, because of their engine placement, with the engine being directly over the rear wheels, you want to generally try *not* to go off-throttle during cornering as this shifts the weight forward and off the rear-wheels, which for the BTR with its sharp turbocharged engine response can make the weight shift suddenly and quickly like a pendulum, which is what wipes a lot of drivers out with these cars. One secret is that with MR/RR drivetrain cars, simply keeping throttle mid-corner and modulating does a lot to help keep the chassis stable and balanced. You also just want to naturally try to not induce excess body roll in general with these cars. This works well for every mid/rear-engine car I've driven, although suspension and drivetrain tuning also work well to fight against the oversteer of course. For twitchy mid/rear-engine cars, you can also increase Initial LSD Torque to reduce their twitchiness during direction change/cornering.
OMG YES PLS MAKE MORE GT4 VIDS
Great video! Super helpful
You're such a blessing!
God I love Gran Turismo 4, but it truly is one of the most frustrating understeer simulator games ever made.
I think a lot of the "understeer simulator" criticism would have been avoided if ASM was off by default.
Dude, thank you. Having this content at 2023, and free...what a blessing! Such a relaxing and well made video! 👏
Edit: btw, i have a doubt...
I have a DS4 to play on my PS2 and it's analog sticks feel kinda sensitive with some cars. I got used to it, but it would be better if it wasn't that way. So, if i change the values of the spring rate, will it maybe make the car less 'sensitive' to smaller adjustments? Without losing the ability to turn, ideally?
Happy to help, thank you! Hmm, yeah, there might be some weird analog sensitivity stuff going on with using a DS4 with a PS2. Stiff spring rates will prevent swings of weight transfer from sudden turns, yeah, though the car's corner entry handling will noticeably worsen. Raising the front camber should also help a lot, it's how I always fixed sensitivity issues in GT1. Best thing to do might be switching to a different controller and comparing to see if the sensitivity is better, though.
8:50- Wow, I never had experimented with the ballast during my last playthrough, but using your ideas I put a ballast toward the front on my very understeer loving Celica GT-Four 98 and it stayed on the road much better. Even Bspec Granny was able to keep it on the road on Suzuka East without flying on the road once staying on 4 for over 10 laps, lol
That's interesting, the Celica is quite front-heavy by default with a 60:40 weight distribution so that explains the understeer. 4WD is by far the most difficult drivetrain to tune in GT4 IMO, since even a small change to spring rates, downforce or weight distribution can cause massive stability issues entering corners. I haven't tried tuning the '98 GT-Four yet, but I'm curious to give it a try now. It was surprisingly good in GT3 because it had adjustable front and rear downforce (one of the only road cars in the game that had it), so it was glued in corners with some setup. I've heard that inducing understeer makes B-spec way more predictable, so it makes sense the front ballast helped a lot there.
Yeah, the GT Four was way better in GT3 I remember. I still don't think I have it quite tuned right in GT4. And I have a big problem with it eating up the front tires as well in races.@@TeaKanji
@@Skyhurricane89 yeah, I almost always go for sports mediums on front and softs on rear for 4WD's to balance out the wear a bit. The combination does cause understeer, but you can tune it out to an extent by softening the springs, setting the VCD to 10 and adding weight to the rear to make it more nimble. Basically what I had to do to make the Ram drivable for my last video. Unequipping any LSD upgrades can also allow the car to turn into corners easier, but personally I prefer the stability that the custom LSD provides, even at lowest settings (with the exception of Skyline GT-R's).
Yeah, I played around with the Celica and used Sports Hard on the front and medium on the rear. Tweaked the suspension for oversteer and VCD to 10. I found that it was best to just take off the LSD completely as any settings I did made the car understeer more. @@TeaKanji
The car stayed on the road better with a 30kg-50kg ballast on the front. If I put any ballast at all on the rear it wouldn't stay on the road. This one is difficult to get right. I had tuned an Impreza a few weeks ago and it was much easier to get right.
Just Subscribed Great Channel Dude.
You have load balance wrong. More load over an axle relative to the other increases that axle's linear inertia relative to the other, but due to tire load sensitivity effects, the more loaded axle becomes less efficient than the less loaded one, resulting in less grip on the more loaded axle.
It's why lighter cars turn better than heavy cars.
Longitudinally the linear inertia is the same due to the axis running through both axles, so loading an axle gives it *more* longitudinal grip relative to the other; opposite of lateral.
What an insane guide, theres only one thing that i dont get really...what effects does racing modification have??
I'm not sure I understand, since GT4 doesn't have racing modifications; are you talking about the RACINGMODIFY table in SpecDB? That's where the car's downforce and wind drag data is stored.
If you're driving a car on Test Course and it suddenly starts going 190 189 188 187 186 185 and keeps dropping in speed, how do you fix it? Note: it is not just buying full custom drivetrain and setting it to 25, i already do that on these cars
Hey homs,
Thank you for this Excellent explanations, but these information that you give, is a little bit confusing.
So i will love a tuning for a car. It the MAZDA RX-7 TYPE R (FD, J) please.
So can you do it for me?
Rettexture MOd, UI texture mod+randomizer/(soon spec 2 mod) Playing with a t300.
A question: If I adjust the weight balance with 0 ballast, it causes any effect? Because when I put the weight balance to more rear, I feel the car with more grip in the rear without need of ballast
On sidenote, you need to do throttle management instead of tapping the throttle
Great guides, do you have any suggestions for winning the GT World Championship with the CLK GTR? I feel the car is very challenging to setup and even the one provided in the cheat sheet is too understeery and stiff.
Thank you! Yeah, the CLK GTR was one of the most difficult cars for me to tune. It just doesn't have enough rear wheel grip since it has less downforce than the LMP's, and its tyre wear rates are below-average as well. I mainly tuned the car at El Capitan, so it probably feels a bit understeery since I was doing what I could to keep it stable. On flat tracks, you can try raising the front downforce slightly for a bit of extra turn-in.
Most important thing if you want to secure a win is to re-roll for a favourable line-up. If a Sauber or Minolta is in pole, you're going to struggle to catch up on a lot of tracks. You probably won't win every race (sometimes the LMP's don't pit at all on El Capitan which is annoying) but you can secure a points lead pretty easily if the line-up is balanced.
Fantastic video! Can anyone tell me the name of the song that starts at 00:49?
Thanks! It's Dream World - KEMMEI.
@@TeaKanji Much appreciated. Is it from GT5?
Id also love to know what the achievements that come up are from?! Are they custom?
Ah, hehe, yeah, I had RetroAchievements enabled and forgot to disable it as I was recording. It's pretty easy to set up if you make an account, then log in using the PCSX2 1.7 nightly build.
@@TeaKanji That’s so awesome, Im gonna try beat em all. Adds so much replayability to gt4
we need something focused only for FFs cause lemme tell ya those cars are a pain to tune
I'm having a hard time in Tuning Car Grand Prix with R32 GTS-t Type M albeit highly upgraded often gets passed by that Opera S2000 which almost always keeps 1st position no matter what.
Any recommendations for tuning this Specific Car for this event and especially against that Opera S2000?
The AI in that championship are on racing mediums, and the Opera S2000 has insane amounts of grip due to its chassis grip modifiers. Beating it with the R32 is going to be really difficult, as it's quite average stats-wise.
Tuning-wise, it's a regular FR affair: max downforce, springs in the 6.0 - 8.0 region, 2 bounds 5 rebounds, 1.4 / 1.4 camber, maybe a 110 / 100 ride height and a rear ballast of around 60 - 80kg would work (it has a 55 : 45 weight distribution). You might be able to afford running soft racing tyres, but keep an eye on the rear tyres and make sure the gears aren't too short so they don't wear out really quickly while exiting sharp corners.
@@TeaKanji Okay I will try using the ballast, softer tyres and maybe change suspension settings a bit. I'am using a R32 because of the challenge and so far Its been fun. Appreciate the reply and thanks for video and spreadsheet guides.
@@TeaKanji I Did It! Just needed Sports Softs with a bit more suspension tuning and ballast hehe
one dude:this guide it is the episode 1.5 of the gran turismo 4 complete guide or isn't from the theme?
If I understand the question correctly, it's somewhat an "episode 1.5" of the guide, going into much more detail on tuning, but at the same time, it's its own thing. I wanted to make sure that someone new to the channel could watch this video without having seen the guide first.
@@TeaKanji pd:good video from always 😎
Btw why do some cars in your guide have weird gears? Like your 2004 pescarolo uses only 4 out of it's 6 gears... Why???
It's basically a measure to prevent wheelspin, reduce tyre wear/fuel consumption, and reduce gear shifts on techncial tracks. I kind of go over my thinking behind it in the Toyota 7 example. Basically I try to find a 1st gear that's long enough to smoothly exit corners without wheelspin, but not too slow to the point where the car stalls on slower tracks like Opera Paris. The rest of the gears end up being unreachable, but that's generally not much of an issue.
If you're comfortable driving in MT, you can replace my gear setups with the 'super close pattern' in the gear patterns section. That way, 1st gear can be used only for emergencies if you spin out and you need to rev up quickly, you can launch and exit corners in 2nd gear, and you can have small RPM drops from 3rd onwards so the car is always in the power band on long straights. For the tune list, I usually try to make 1st gear usable so AT drivers can use the the tunes without killing the rear tyres.
@@TeaKanji Oh wow thank you!
I finally got to the end of the video.
Indeed the 3 speed lmp was a surprise but there is already one in the game.
I'll be doing some drag races to see how much speed is lost by using this trick but it doesn't seem to make the car much slower.@@TeaKanji
@@JessicaMorgani Yeah, it depends if TCS is enabled or not. Running a short 1st gear and letting TCS handle the wheelspin is going to be faster than this 3-speed setup in the 0-1000m, but you need to be driving in MT to avoid dropping to 1st in sharp corners and wearing the tyres really quickly. I find this setup makes the car more forgiving to drive, and keeps the rear tyres cool enough so they don't lose traction as the front tyres begin to wear.
Teakanji can you help me figure how to calculate power to weight or how much torque is nessecary for moving a vehicle of a certain weight.
I want to tune the gear ratio just right to make the vehicle weight.
Math-Wise
In GT4? There is no math to it, it's pretty much a guessing game. The game doesn't give you enough details about the car's weight and whatnot to make any sort of "definitive" gear ratio setup. On top of that, you'd need to factor in the car's tyre grip as well. Trial and error is unfortunately the easiest way from my experience.
How can I turn on ASM in Gran Turismo mode?
It's already enabled by default for each car, it would be in the Driver Aids section of the car settings menu. Why would you want to enable it though?
@@TeaKanji I recently playing formula GT event. But now I'm struggling in Nurburgring 15 laps with my Audi R8 race car. The problem is when I playing in arcade mode, the car is stable while pushing around +300kmh but when I race in Gran Turismo mode, the car is likely unstable even I don't reach 300kmh.
are you mechanic?? cause the guide so comprehensive... thank you very much
but is there more simple way for me casual gamer?
Hehe, nah, I'm just a software dev with a lot of time on my hands. It's tough to give a simple way because there's so many small details that can make a difference. Each suspension, LSD and downforce setting can have a pretty massive effect on car handling. I guess the essentials though are: always set bounds to 2, rebounds to 5, rear camber to at least 1.4, front camber to 1.4 if the car feels too understeer-y, rear stabiliser to 7, downforce to max with the rear wing, ASM to 0, and TCS to 0 or 1 depending on the car.
I have an Alfa 147 GTA. It has 412 HP, i tuned the the handlings and thankfully it went better. But my problem is the brakes, the car twitches while i brake when turning. I don't know how to figure out because im afraid if i would ruin the handling tunes
I'm surprised you were able to make the 147 handle well with 412hp. I tried tuning it myself a while back, but only up to 276hp, because any more would have made it wheelspin like crazy. What are the springs and stabilisers set to? Does it have a ballast, and if so, where and how much?
I scored 7:13 in Nurbugring with the car so far haha. For the springs its 3.9-5.2 and stabilizers are 6/5. Ballast is -50 with 150kg weight
My current suspect is i the increase rigidity upgrade which i think i accidentally bought it and idk how to revert back to stock
@@muhammaddaffa3047 Ah, okay, yeah, the rear springs are probably too stiff and causing the imbalance entering corners. I always try to keep the rear springs within 0.5 of the front for FF's, or else they lose grip too easily when you let go of the throttle. There's no way to undo the rigidity increase, but it shouldn't cause any major issues as long as you keep the car's rigidity fresh.
@@TeaKanji ahh i see, i think the softest i tried so far was 4.0 and i think it wasnt really stable for my car. I raised it to 5.2 and it went a little bit stable. The car went uncontrollable as we reach the lowest speed during braking
I wish TCS wasn't so strong in this game. Even the minimum value can destroy a FF car cornering ability. I feel it was much more balanced in GT3. Now, about tuning, I'm still very insecure. I like to try out other people tunes and, if I like it, make very feel adjustments to suit me better. Without provided tunes, I try to adjust the car stability mainly with the tires and TCS so I don't fuck up with the settings, and if this is still not enough, that's where I try to go into the settings to see what I can do to fix the car. I also avoid the rear wing and NOS upgrades most of the time because they feel like cheats, and some cars looks really stupid with the spoiler. In the end though, I only use those cars in very specific events because I always feel has suboptimal performance without a proper tune.
Yeah, it's especially annoying when it's enabled in licence tests with no way to disable it. The "NOS is cheating" reputation is a interesting one that I've seen a lot while digging through forums; while I agree that it's overkill on cars that can already get 500hp+, it's also one of the only ways to make FF's competitive in this game. Almost feels like it was intended for the player to use it in the Suzuki Concepts manufacturer event, or else PD was just really bad at balancing. That's another thing yeah, the 'optimal' tune for a car often looks ridiculous aesthetically, with the front height raised up and a massive rear wing. I always drive in roof cam so it doesn't really bother me, but yeah, it can get very silly sometimes.
@@TeaKanji My problem with NOS is not about balancing issues, it's mainly because it's so unrealistic being allowed to use it in a race whereas in real life it is banned in basically any non-drag motorsport event. In the game, you can use it everywhere. I think that for small events like most one make races it is fine thought. The rear wing is worse; the fact you can adjust the FRONT downforce of a car with it makes me feel like it was PD's alternative to racing modifications not being present in the game.
Hey in your tuning guide for the Nissan R89C Race Car, you say put the final to 5.000 then to 2.000. For me it goes to 2.500, I can't get it lower. Is this a typo? Or different version of the game. I don't understand. I'm also on NTSC-U, Serial: SCUS-97328. Also it says v2.00 on my ISO lol.
Anyway, thanks for all this in depth information, it's crazy how much effort you put into these videos.
That's probably a typo, my bad, sorry, I'll fix it when I get a chance tomorrow. Just in case you come across any other typos like that, the first final gear will always be all the way to the right, so basically you can set it as far left as it can go if the final doesn't match up. Let me know if you do find more typos though so I can fix them, of course. Thank you by the way, glad you appreciate it!
@@TeaKanji Ahh gotcha, I got the setup now. I'm going for 100% on this game to fulfill my childhood lol. I just beat mission 34 which was painful but only took 1 day of grinding, now ima use the prize for GTWC. Gunna be using your tunes and guides along the way.
♥️
Good video but it's painful to read 44 minutes lol I only watched 2 minutes and I can't' do it anymore.
Would be nice if you were just talking
I understand, but Sadly not everyone good at it. His writing is incredible tough
You can't speak?
Fr he should use an ai voice
You can't read?
I know a good way.
play another game.
Honestly, GT4 was designed for wheels. It never felt right with a controller, even to this day using PCSX2 with my sim wheel setup, stock setups for way less twitchy, and braking is so much more under control on front heavy FR cars. And putting wheel input into FWD cars under power without washing out on corner exit is so much better.