Greg, We appreciate the feedback and I want to make sure that I am understanding your comment correctly. We show sealant being applied to the pipe boot at this time stamp in the video, 2:35-2:45. Also at 3:17 = top of the boot at the pipe. Let me know if this resolves this comment. Thank you.
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing I mark where the boot will end up on the pipe, and apply silicone just above that spot before sliding the boot back down, so that the silicone forms a donut inside the boot, preventing any water that should slip past a boot that becomes loose or has any kind of crack/fault from getting trapped inside the boot. Then over the top as well. Takes an extra 30 seconds but gives years of peace of mind.
Slick video for the DIYers. Needed to show a 2" or 3" vent installation, where a hole saw is required. Not quite as easy as a 3/4 or 1" installation using a variable bit.
I do this stuff for a living and I would NEVER recommend this method. If you must use goop don't use silicone use Gutter Seal polyurethane. The way to properly flash a toilet vent is to have a sheet of roof steel longer than the normal pitch. A couple pieces of strapping should be installed beforehand so that you have something to screw into along the bottom of the boot and the top of the vent Measure from the eaves to the bottom of the vent pipe. Mark the steel from the bottom. Measure over from the lap side of the adjacent sheet and mark this steel at the center of the bottom of the pipe. Cut the "U" shape out of the steel so that it just touches the bottom of the vent The top piece of steel should be flipped so that the factory side is down. Once again measure over from the lap of the adjacent piece and mark the top piece of steel. Fasten the bottom piece of steel with a few screws away from the pipe. Slide on the flashing boot so that it overlaps the sheet you just put on. Notch the top piece of steel so that it's an inch or so away from the peak of the roof and overlaps the bottom piece of steel and the boot. Align the ribs carefully and add some screws a few inches up from the edge of the steel, evenly on both sides. If you're able to do this well and there's sufficient pitch on the roof you shouldn't need any goop at all. If you do need roof sealant don't use silicone.
Apparently no one on the planet knows how to vent a bathroom fan or range hood through an Ag panel roof. I have been looking for a month. I only found a few people posting terrible ways to do it that will eventually leak.
Why no silicone under the boot to back up the seal of teh rubber boot? Major oversight.
Greg, We appreciate the feedback and I want to make sure that I am understanding your comment correctly. We show sealant being applied to the pipe boot at this time stamp in the video, 2:35-2:45. Also at 3:17 = top of the boot at the pipe. Let me know if this resolves this comment. Thank you.
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing I mark where the boot will end up on the pipe, and apply silicone just above that spot before sliding the boot back down, so that the silicone forms a donut inside the boot, preventing any water that should slip past a boot that becomes loose or has any kind of crack/fault from getting trapped inside the boot. Then over the top as well. Takes an extra 30 seconds but gives years of peace of mind.
@@gregorywatson4590 Thank you for the excellent installation advice. I'll pin this last comment.
Slick video for the DIYers. Needed to show a 2" or 3" vent installation, where a hole saw is required. Not quite as easy as a 3/4 or 1" installation using a variable bit.
That's a great idea. I wish I would have thought of that prior to filming this video.
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing Thank You.
I do this stuff for a living and I would NEVER recommend this method.
If you must use goop don't use silicone use Gutter Seal polyurethane.
The way to properly flash a toilet vent is to have a sheet of roof steel longer than the normal pitch.
A couple pieces of strapping should be installed beforehand so that you have something to screw into along the bottom of the boot and the top of the vent
Measure from the eaves to the bottom of the vent pipe.
Mark the steel from the bottom.
Measure over from the lap side of the adjacent sheet and mark this steel at the center of the bottom of the pipe.
Cut the "U" shape out of the steel so that it just touches the bottom of the vent
The top piece of steel should be flipped so that the factory side is down.
Once again measure over from the lap of the adjacent piece and mark the top piece of steel.
Fasten the bottom piece of steel with a few screws away from the pipe.
Slide on the flashing boot so that it overlaps the sheet you just put on.
Notch the top piece of steel so that it's an inch or so away from the peak of the roof and overlaps the bottom piece of steel and the boot.
Align the ribs carefully and add some screws a few inches up from the edge of the steel, evenly on both sides.
If you're able to do this well and there's sufficient pitch on the roof you shouldn't need any goop at all.
If you do need roof sealant don't use silicone.
Apparently no one on the planet knows how to vent a bathroom fan or range hood through an Ag panel roof. I have been looking for a month. I only found a few people posting terrible ways to do it that will eventually leak.
So is this the correct way ?
@@Noold This is fine for a pipe. Good luck finding anyone that knows how to do a roof vent though.
@@stwerks any idea how to do a roof vent? I have a small sauna I need to vent out the metal roof.
@@Noold I would try to put it up at the peak and get the top lip under your Ridge cap.
@John Stevenson it's a shed roof, with a very low slope.