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Blend door actuator & engine ticking
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ธ.ค. 2020
- If you own a VW, then you can feel my pain. I spend soooo much money on this car versus my Honda. But... It has become an obsession to figure how to fix things on it, which is a monthly challenge!
Outfreakinstanding sir thank you for showing me to the point where that actuator is located. Havent found any others that get to the point like that. Also Ive got the exact same lifter noise. If you happen across a solution let us know.. Thanks again!
I had the same noise on my 2008 VW Eos. I’m sure it’s the exact same thing. The timing cover is made of plastic, over the years of getting cold and hot it start to flex and take on a different shape. The cover starts to rub on the crank shaft pulley . I believe it’s 6 torque screws that hold on the pulley. Once you pull off the pulley you will see where it is rubbing. I used a grinder to grind down where it was rubbing. You can also start the car with out the pulley on to make sure that, that was the problem.
It was in fact the lifters. Pulled the cam girdle and shafts and out to find 2 lifters that were stuck. Replaced all of them and haven't had a problem since. Other than a couple oil filter housing and an alternator. Siting on 249,000 miles
Appreciate it you helped alot
How did you get the bolt way up there for the metal piece that covers the blend door actuator? I cannot manage to take the last bolt off to remove the metal piece.
I was upside down, contortionist style and I believe I had a 10 mm socket that I had to bare handed take the bolt out. That sealed the deal about never put that shit back in there.
Listening to your video, is it possible that the ticking noise is either the high pressure fuel flow control valve, or the purge valve. Both can be noisy. Also, for those who have trouble with the metal bracket, VW service manual says to remove the bottom bolt and pull the bracket over toward the accelerator pedal, then swap the actuator. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing the video.
The ticking was from stuck lifters. After removing the cams, I found 2 that were not expanding so I replaced all of them while I was in there. 237,136 miles on it this day
Thank man it help.
i have the same ticking on my 2014 passat tdi, have you figured out what that is? thanks to you i’m going to tackle the blend door actuator now!
The ticking was the lifters. I had at least 2 of them that were collapsed. I replaced all of them. She runs like a champ now.. 227,774 miles on the clock
I have a 2005.5 Jetta and the A/C does not work most of the time, but randomly kicks in. I have a- 01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left (V158) code. What I am not sure of is this: Even if the actuator is bad, shouldn't the compressor still produce coldness? In my case the compressor does not. I am just wondering of the actuator somehow tells the compressor to kick in. Thanks
I think the compressor should still kick on.
did you get the calibration done? How did it go? I need to get mine calibrated.
Yes, I used VCDS.
Well I am looking for a wirless andriod out deck for 2015 passat.
Do you have one installed?
No, everything on my car is stock. I contemplate upgrading, but it has 227,200 miles on it. Hate to dump any significant amount of money on her.
I have 2015 VW Passat diesel and sometimes the air works but the heat doesn’t or the heat works and the air doesn’t. The only way I can get whichever one isn’t working is to change the control knob back and forth a bunch. I saw your video where you changed out the actuator control valve and wondered if you were having this same issue. Thanks, Mic
I'm not familiar with the newer models.. Yours probably has dual climate control also. It may be a problem with the controls, but I'm not certain.
@@headstrong6523 Thank you.
cool this helps im just now tryin to fix the heat on my vw cc
I've done so much to this car. Wish I would've documented more of it. Replacing the lifters fixed the ticking sound
@@headstrong6523 How difficult was it to replace those lifters?
@@bc4092 not that bad, but I had replaced the intake cam previously so I was familiar with the tear down. If you haven't replaced the cam chain tensioner or chain, I'd do that too while you're in there. The cams lift out and then you can access the lifters. From experience, don't reuse old anaerobic sealer on the cam tower! Car runs perfect now, just rolled over 221,000 miles
i took the actuator out and putting the new one in im having trouble connecting the new one with the OE arm ordered a new one with the same issue. so did you replace your arm or did you use the old one? any help would be appreciated
I just replaced the actuator.
@@headstrong6523 i’m gonna work on it tomorrow hopefully i can figure out how to put the arm back together with the new actuator
Does that blend door actuator also control where the heat goes? I've got good hit but it wont come out defrost and is clicking
There are a couple actuators. Check the one behind the glove box area maybe... I know there's a recirculation door actuator over there.
Actually.. On my air direction control, there's a cable that runs from the control to the air deflector box.
How do you remove the plastic trim pieces (one underneath the steering wheel, and the one by gas pedal)? I cant figure out how to remove them to even be able to get to the actuator.
There are a couple torx screws under the foam that surrounds the vent holes for the plastic below the steering wheel. 1 screw by the pedal and the panel can be pulled downward and toward the front of the car. A trim tool will help if you have one because it's a snug fit.
Can you help me out with this problem? I think it’s the same actuator door that went wrong with yours but on my 2015 Passat TDI, the heat sometimes works and sometimes never works. Sometimes it also works and then stops maybe when my engine fans come on to cool the engine but not all the time. Sometimes it just works the whole time and no problem. I’ve gotten my dual climate zone actuators serviced and that was another issue where only one side was getting heat.
I'm not familiar with the newer models, but I would assume that the actuators are in the same location.
Have a oil leak notthe main any suggestions?
Oil filter housing or valve cover
And the end, did you solve the ticking noise ? If so, what was it ?
Yes I solved the ticking... It was a couple stuck lifters. I pulled the cams and replaced all of them and haven't had a problem since then. Currently sitting on 246,732 miles.
How hard is it to remove the dash above? I couldn’t get the part under steering wheel off
I haven't attempted Dash removal. I'm sure it would be time consuming. That bolt is hard to access for sure... Which is why I didn't reinstall it 😂
@@headstrong6523 you in order to get to the Actuator you didn’t remove any of the dash? I’m trying to replace it in my gf Passat so I’m struggling lol
@@zerocorgan88 no, I didn't remove any of the dash. Just that metal bracket straight up from the accelerator pedal. I think it was a 10mm bolt all the way up being the steering column that was the biggest pain. I remember being twisted like a contortionist and upside down to get at it.
@@headstrong6523 ok thanks so much I guess I’ll just remove the seat lol
@@zerocorgan88 that would probably help a lot. Worst case, cut it out. It's soft metal
Think a 2017 the same?
Possibly, I'm pretty sure the heater core is in the same location.
I know this is an old video. I hope you’re using liquid Molly and not mobile one years ago with the original five cylinder anytime I put mobile one in it or noise went to Castro recommended by Audi run away.
I am actually still running Mobil 1 0w 40. After this video, I took the cams out and replaced the lifters and it solved the problem. I now have 255,000 miles on her and she still runs great and only burns about half a quart between 5k mile oil changes.