Very helpful 👍 I thought the foam on my blend doors had deteriorated, but it turns out my white cable which controls the hot/cold air blend fell off. I ended up glueing it and refastening it. Took me a whole day, but I am so happy my ac finally works again! Thanks for the great vid.
Half way there with this, your video really helped a lot, thank goodness for my small hands to get behind the airbox! I would recommend just snapping that tab off at @12:50 so you don't have to ever deal with it again! If anyone else watching that is considering doing this, I would also recommend removing your front seats too so you're not having to contort yourself around in the footwells.
@@hestermannmotorwerks your video was so incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for doing it. I would have never gotten all the way through my fix if you didn't go through this work!
So happens that 6mm is .236in so it's likely a 1/4" driver fits on it just fine. It's relevant because there may be some clever long and/or flexible 1/4" bit drivers that are magnetic, that you can get into this space.
I just got the stupid cover back in from doing this and I hope it does the trick. My ac works fine , but I noticed as the car warmed up , I could feel some heat. When I got it open , the foam wasn't damaged until I touched it. The car was sitting 8yrs so I have a list of repairs before I even get to the Ute part but I'm pretty close now!
17:00 thanks for the el cheapo harbor freight plastic welder. I got a little hamfisted and frustrated with getting that tab released on the removal and I cracked the cover. I thought I had one in the horde and didn't , so that was my next best option. It's a handy tool for working on these plasticmobiles.
18:00 It's helpful to take the plastic pieces and hold them together , and it gives you an idea of how they fit together once you have the whole mess in there and are trying to do it by feel and blind luck😁
good tip! and yes I use a HF one all the time trying to get door panels to look decent. I also keep a bit of the blueish plastic from throw away door panels to use as filler for plastic welding other parts
@@hestermannmotorwerks Yea I sure am! it'll take me a few evenings but I want to position the car in a well lit spot , which happens to be the most cluttered area at the moment 😆 A few hours of cleanup and organizing and I'll have a decent spot to start the cutting.
I came here because I inherited a VW caddy from a friend. The temperature knob does nothing and air always comes through hot. This isn't the only electric problem though. During lockdown my friend wanted to get the inside of the caddy used for her gardening business really clean. She made up a solution of natural cleaning products in a spray bottle including essential oils 🤷 and then sprayed inside the car all over, dashboard etc etc So now we have this heater problem but also electric windows don't work, stereo works but often doesn't light up. And DSG gearbox works fine but when pulling away it's not smooth in 1st, it lifts up the clutch very aggressive and then disengages the clutch. The engine rpm builds up and then just let's go of the clutch again. Often this causes bunny hopping. I find it's better if I give more throttle and just ride out the first clutch dump. I'm am thinking maybe the ECU is damaged/ got wet but I don't really know. If all of the electrics are controlled by a central ECU then I can try swapping it over and seeing what difference it makes if anything. Hoping wires aren't damaged. Aside from laughing at me do any of you know where I should start? Where is the ECU and if I source a spare and put it in, will it function or does it need coding to the car? Failing that I hope to get the air blowing cold because it's coming to summer, and I can drive it as it is but I am keen to get a multimeter and take things apart
Wow that’s a lot! It’s possible but I don’t think those things are all related unless all those things started happening at once after she sprayed down the interior. Usually that doesn’t happen though. We don’t have the Caddy’s here so I don’t know where the ECU is but suspect it is in the plenum chamber under the wipers. So I don’t think she got it wet cleaning the interior. First step is to get it scanned. See what codes the electronics have and the DSG and start troubleshooting from there. I’m guessing the AIr Con has a separate issue and will need trouble shooting all on its own.
@@hestermannmotorwerks hi, thanks for your feedback. Your video is the most clear and well explained by far for this work. I foud several videos how to remove glove box, lower trim bot have not found any video about how remove centre main console or dash (big one) . It will be a challenge to remove it without breaking anything... need to find bentley manual or any workshop manual in pdf for TT Mk1. I wonder if you have any manual for this car. Need to do research before start the work this winter. Thanks in advance and congratulationations for your channel. Great and clear car mainteinance videos
I dont have those flaps in my 2008 vw jetta. I already pulled the whole thing a couple of years ago. My question is, i get ice cold air, and hot air, but it doesnt really gradually get cold or hot. I have to turn it all the way to hot in order to get hot air. Is there an actator that would control that? I only know of the recirculation actuator
Great video. Picked up an mk1 TT and know i have to do this. AC is coolish, and blows warm as the car warms up. DREADING this process as she's pristine with only 30K miles, her only problem, for now :)
wow that is an incredible find with 30K! I think the TT is actually just a little bit easier cuz the lower dash comes apart a little easier (very similar to beetle) but you have to remove a bunch of stuff from the center console (the braces/hand holds). Good luck with the car! little bit jelly of that find!
2001 audi tt 225 quattro 70k kms (42k miles) AC got warmer, had been blowing foam, pulled code, got this: 00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113) Open circuit/short with power - Intermittent. Pulled the Potentiometer and worked flaps by hand but made no difference in ac temp. Question: the blend doors in a TT are controlled by electric motors rather than cables: any tips on manipulating the blend doors when taping? I will be trying the blending doors this weekend.
@@lylejenish6641 i completely forgot about the climatronic system that was an option is the MK4s. They are electronic instead of cable (like yours). the only thing I can think of is to (gently) pull the flaps by hand (or a hook). The motors should rotate and let you move them. Just use a gentle but firm pressure. if you jerk it too hard or apply too much pressure, you risk stripping the little plastic gears in the motor. You could also hook the control panel back up and use it to shift the doors.
Unfortunately 2015s are a different system and I can’t help you with that. But if you haven’t searched @humblemechanic channel, Charles may have a video that would help
Thank you for the video! Question, do you know where the hvac coolant control valve is located? This valve controls coolant to the heat exchanger. Thanks
Do you know if this issue is similar on an 09 Tiguan? I have full heat on driver side. Barely warm on passenger side and is almost just blowing everywhere (feet, face, ect.) I also have found lots of foam in vents indicating it would have a similar blend door. I have the entire dash off right now but can’t seem to get into the heater box without tearing out the entire frame/bracket that holds the dash on. I can’t quite see the doors yet either to even know that there the same door with foam holes or if it is solid. My actuators seem to be okay. The one on the passenger side is a little choppy as if it’s not relaying back to itself it’s position mid way. But it does seem to fully open and close. Any info or guidance for this? Thanks in advance!
Beautiful job.... The problem I have in my audi a3 8l it's about getting warm air from the central dash vents... And cold from sides... 8ve seen foam flyi g from. The vents pushed by the fan... So I guess this is the job I should do.... I just dont have the guts to do it right now..... 😂😂😂
I think you have a vent or control cable issue. When I say vent I mean the actual tubing in the dash. With the controls on dash vents and fan on high is the pressure even between the left and right dash vents?
@@hestermannmotorwerks thanks for the reply. Yes the air pressure is the same on both sides when the controls are on max, just the passenger side doesnt get hot when the heater is on.
@@hestermannmotorwerks sorry if you're busy, I replied to your last comment. Do you know what may be the issue? The air pressure is the same on both sides, but only the driver side vent gets hot when the heater is on.
@@ChrisBrownSmackedRhiRhi I don't know what the issue is there but it has to be one of the passageways or doors allowing heated air into the ducting to go to the passenger side. That is a strange issue though.
What doors are controlled by the recirculate button in a 2006 beetle? Seems like all air is blocked when button is pressed but when off get hot air coming in from the outside.
If you open the right (passenger) side of the dash board, you can look down into the air vent and see the door that separates fresh air from recirculate air. Alternatively, you can take the glove box out and remove the fan to see into that same cavity
@@hestermannmotorwerks Thanks for the response. Turns out i had a small plastic bag blocking the air intake just under the passager side dash. Dooohh I will be doing the door fix also as i have foam blowing out the vents.
true, which is why I recommend using HVAC tape. The adhesive puts up a little better to heat and cold cycles. And you really don't have any other options without removing the system. You might be able to drill/rivet/screw plates over the doors but it would be pretty challenging!
Looks just like Kirstens old car (which is currently on my lift lol) but this is Vic's car. Almost the same though. took me about 6 hours with all the filming and dealing with broken stuff, and redoing the stereo. Usually its 3-4 hours
My saviour! Thank you from Italy. You are the only one that shows the left hidden bolt, the bronze colored one. Thank you! (Golf mk IV 4motion TDI)
Very helpful 👍 I thought the foam on my blend doors had deteriorated, but it turns out my white cable which controls the hot/cold air blend fell off. I ended up glueing it and refastening it. Took me a whole day, but I am so happy my ac finally works again! Thanks for the great vid.
Half way there with this, your video really helped a lot, thank goodness for my small hands to get behind the airbox!
I would recommend just snapping that tab off at @12:50 so you don't have to ever deal with it again!
If anyone else watching that is considering doing this, I would also recommend removing your front seats too so you're not having to contort yourself around in the footwells.
In case someone else tries this, on my 04 jetta, its a 6mm socket thats needed, not 1/4". Thank you! This was very helpful.
yeah no duh huh? its German, there isn't a single english fastener on the vehicle LOL Thanks for the good correction
@@hestermannmotorwerks your video was so incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for doing it. I would have never gotten all the way through my fix if you didn't go through this work!
So happens that 6mm is .236in so it's likely a 1/4" driver fits on it just fine. It's relevant because there may be some clever long and/or flexible 1/4" bit drivers that are magnetic, that you can get into this space.
I don't own a VW, but I've heard about this problem and your video tutorial colution is genius, thanks so much for posting :)
Thanks got it all done in a couple hours start to finish, no more heat when it's off and much colder AC! thanks!
Glad it helped! Pain to do it but so nice once you get it done! Nice job getting it done in a couple hours!
I just got the stupid cover back in from doing this and I hope it does the trick.
My ac works fine , but I noticed as the car warmed up , I could feel some heat.
When I got it open , the foam wasn't damaged until I touched it.
The car was sitting 8yrs so I have a list of repairs before I even get to the Ute part but I'm pretty close now!
17:00 thanks for the el cheapo harbor freight plastic welder.
I got a little hamfisted and frustrated with getting that tab released on the removal and I cracked the cover.
I thought I had one in the horde and didn't , so that was my next best option.
It's a handy tool for working on these plasticmobiles.
18:00
It's helpful to take the plastic pieces and hold them together , and it gives you an idea of how they fit together once you have the whole mess in there and are trying to do it by feel and blind luck😁
yeah sometimes it looks fine but as soon as you touch it, it turns to dust! old cars LOL. I bet you are getting excited for the Ute part!
good tip! and yes I use a HF one all the time trying to get door panels to look decent. I also keep a bit of the blueish plastic from throw away door panels to use as filler for plastic welding other parts
@@hestermannmotorwerks
Yea I sure am!
it'll take me a few evenings but I want to position the car in a well lit spot , which happens to be the most cluttered area at the moment 😆
A few hours of cleanup and organizing and I'll have a decent spot to start the cutting.
Excellent, straight forward instructions.
Excellent video, it will save me a lot of guess work and time, thank you!!!
This was extremely helpful.
Its vag engeenering diversion. Doors push hot air and AC (correctly working with correct pressure) not give cold air.
Awesome video, I’ve got to do that to my MK3 Jetta GT.
I came here because I inherited a VW caddy from a friend. The temperature knob does nothing and air always comes through hot.
This isn't the only electric problem though. During lockdown my friend wanted to get the inside of the caddy used for her gardening business really clean. She made up a solution of natural cleaning products in a spray bottle including essential oils 🤷 and then sprayed inside the car all over, dashboard etc etc
So now we have this heater problem but also electric windows don't work, stereo works but often doesn't light up. And DSG gearbox works fine but when pulling away it's not smooth in 1st, it lifts up the clutch very aggressive and then disengages the clutch. The engine rpm builds up and then just let's go of the clutch again. Often this causes bunny hopping. I find it's better if I give more throttle and just ride out the first clutch dump. I'm am thinking maybe the ECU is damaged/ got wet but I don't really know. If all of the electrics are controlled by a central ECU then I can try swapping it over and seeing what difference it makes if anything. Hoping wires aren't damaged. Aside from laughing at me do any of you know where I should start? Where is the ECU and if I source a spare and put it in, will it function or does it need coding to the car?
Failing that I hope to get the air blowing cold because it's coming to summer, and I can drive it as it is but I am keen to get a multimeter and take things apart
Wow that’s a lot! It’s possible but I don’t think those things are all related unless all those things started happening at once after she sprayed down the interior. Usually that doesn’t happen though. We don’t have the Caddy’s here so I don’t know where the ECU is but suspect it is in the plenum chamber under the wipers. So I don’t think she got it wet cleaning the interior. First step is to get it scanned. See what codes the electronics have and the DSG and start troubleshooting from there. I’m guessing the AIr Con has a separate issue and will need trouble shooting all on its own.
great video. Thank you for your great explanations!!!! need to do it in my TT .
The TT center console is a little more complicated to remove but the access to the hatch is better than the Jetta. Good luck!
@@hestermannmotorwerks hi, thanks for your feedback. Your video is the most clear and well explained by far for this work. I foud several videos how to remove glove box, lower trim bot have not found any video about how remove centre main console or dash (big one) . It will be a challenge to remove it without breaking anything... need to find bentley manual or any workshop manual in pdf for TT Mk1. I wonder if you have any manual for this car. Need to do research before start the work this winter. Thanks in advance and congratulationations for your channel. Great and clear car mainteinance videos
WOW What a great detailed video. thank you!
Thanks a lot....my heater is scolding hot now 🙂
I dont have those flaps in my 2008 vw jetta. I already pulled the whole thing a couple of years ago. My question is, i get ice cold air, and hot air, but it doesnt really gradually get cold or hot. I have to turn it all the way to hot in order to get hot air. Is there an actator that would control that? I only know of the recirculation actuator
Totally need to do this with the Beetle
Please consider watch my video
Outstanding! Thanks, my friend!
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Picked up an mk1 TT and know i have to do this. AC is coolish, and blows warm as the car warms up. DREADING this process as she's pristine with only 30K miles, her only problem, for now :)
wow that is an incredible find with 30K! I think the TT is actually just a little bit easier cuz the lower dash comes apart a little easier (very similar to beetle) but you have to remove a bunch of stuff from the center console (the braces/hand holds). Good luck with the car! little bit jelly of that find!
2001 audi tt 225 quattro 70k kms (42k miles) AC got warmer, had been blowing foam, pulled code, got this: 00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
Open circuit/short with power - Intermittent. Pulled the Potentiometer and worked flaps by hand but made no difference in ac temp. Question: the blend doors in a TT are controlled by electric motors rather than cables: any tips on manipulating the blend doors when taping? I will be trying the blending doors this weekend.
@@lylejenish6641 i completely forgot about the climatronic system that was an option is the MK4s. They are electronic instead of cable (like yours). the only thing I can think of is to (gently) pull the flaps by hand (or a hook). The motors should rotate and let you move them. Just use a gentle but firm pressure. if you jerk it too hard or apply too much pressure, you risk stripping the little plastic gears in the motor. You could also hook the control panel back up and use it to shift the doors.
I'm going to try this tomorrow, hope it fix the issue with my A/C...
I hope it goes well AND fixes your issue!
Dose this also happy in the 2015 2L diesel I'm get lots of heat on passengers side but no heat on driver side 😊
The ac blow cold and heat blow hot on passenger side only I grt air on driver side but no heat
Unfortunately 2015s are a different system and I can’t help you with that. But if you haven’t searched @humblemechanic channel, Charles may have a video that would help
Thank you for the video!
Question, do you know where the hvac coolant control valve is located? This valve controls coolant to the heat exchanger. Thanks
So I hope this works for 97 Passat, at least it gives me an idea what I’m getting into
You talking about two thinks One is blend door and other is Actuator!
Actuator is little motor what opens and closes bland door.
Correct!?
Do you know if this issue is similar on an 09 Tiguan? I have full heat on driver side. Barely warm on passenger side and is almost just blowing everywhere (feet, face, ect.) I also have found lots of foam in vents indicating it would have a similar blend door. I have the entire dash off right now but can’t seem to get into the heater box without tearing out the entire frame/bracket that holds the dash on. I can’t quite see the doors yet either to even know that there the same door with foam holes or if it is solid. My actuators seem to be okay. The one on the passenger side is a little choppy as if it’s not relaying back to itself it’s position mid way. But it does seem to fully open and close. Any info or guidance for this? Thanks in advance!
Sorry I am not familiar with the set up on a Tiggy.
Hi I was wondering what type of camera you used to film this..
You did a great job! Thanks for the tutorial.
Just my iPhone. Sometimes I use a GoPro but the iPhone usually gives the best microphone/camera combo
Awesome video. Did you mention there were three doors to be taped?
Yes but two of them are actually the same piece of steel. It just has a bend in it and it functions as two
Beautiful job.... The problem I have in my audi a3 8l it's about getting warm air from the central dash vents... And cold from sides... 8ve seen foam flyi g from. The vents pushed by the fan... So I guess this is the job I should do.... I just dont have the guts to do it right now..... 😂😂😂
if you take your time, you can do it!
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍
My AC works fine and my heater works great but only for the driver vent. Is this just the actuator or a blend door leak?
I think you have a vent or control cable issue. When I say vent I mean the actual tubing in the dash. With the controls on dash vents and fan on high is the pressure even between the left and right dash vents?
@@hestermannmotorwerks thanks for the reply. Yes the air pressure is the same on both sides when the controls are on max, just the passenger side doesnt get hot when the heater is on.
@@hestermannmotorwerks sorry if you're busy, I replied to your last comment. Do you know what may be the issue? The air pressure is the same on both sides, but only the driver side vent gets hot when the heater is on.
@@ChrisBrownSmackedRhiRhi I don't know what the issue is there but it has to be one of the passageways or doors allowing heated air into the ducting to go to the passenger side. That is a strange issue though.
what are those holes on the flaps for?
What doors are controlled by the recirculate button in a 2006 beetle? Seems like all air is blocked when button is pressed but when off get hot air coming in from the outside.
If you open the right (passenger) side of the dash board, you can look down into the air vent and see the door that separates fresh air from recirculate air. Alternatively, you can take the glove box out and remove the fan to see into that same cavity
@@hestermannmotorwerks Thanks for the response. Turns out i had a small plastic bag blocking the air intake just under the passager side dash. Dooohh I will be doing the door fix also as i have foam blowing out the vents.
Would it possible to dremel a gap through the final piece, push your hand in to tape the blend door and reseal the gap ?
yes you could approach it that way but I think you'd end up making more work for yourself trying to get it sealed up again.
Best video for sure!! 👍🏻
Wow, thanks!
Tape has glue. Once it gets hot the glue will come off the tape and it falls off..
true, which is why I recommend using HVAC tape. The adhesive puts up a little better to heat and cold cycles. And you really don't have any other options without removing the system. You might be able to drill/rivet/screw plates over the doors but it would be pretty challenging!
Quality video
Thank you sir!
Nice!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video. I know not to buy a VW now.
Hey THANX A LOT!!!! Great vid!!!!!
Glad it helped!
You are great!!!
Bro, that car is sweet! How many hours did it take you?
Looks just like Kirstens old car (which is currently on my lift lol) but this is Vic's car. Almost the same though. took me about 6 hours with all the filming and dealing with broken stuff, and redoing the stereo. Usually its 3-4 hours
I'd like to see the blend door actuator replaced on driver side of 2012 vw passat. (Hot on driver cold on passenger)
Does this work with auto-Climatronic unit too? Is it the same "clima box"?