@@DonnyTerek NO DON'T YOU DARE ever do a voice-over. And I speak as an ex teacher (from Civ. Eng industry), Lecturer, IT Trainer and professional Microsoft Presenter. Your video was EXCELLENT, also as ex RAF Photographer as your camera angles, lighting and capturing the action to be done, with hands not covering up everything was very professional - not an easy thing to do. Too many TH-camrs waffle, do not prepare their script, actions do not match words, they play annoying background music as well, think they need to 'crazy' and over the top - all very annoying and distracting. Also when an IT Teacher when British schools had the National Curriculum, I ended up being the temporary TECHNOLOGY Coordinator mainly as the CDT teachers were ex industry as I was, demanding and very good at getting kids to make wood, metal and plastic items - I became their boss. In truth, it was in name only and I found for two years (which I enjoyed and learnt a lot) taught Craft, Design and Technology. To my point, such experience I believe gives credence to state how good this video was, primarily you did not need a voice-over, and your actions shone out and as others on here stated, it was that good I bet many DIY guys will be making their own loudspeakers and even for others as well. Sadly, I do not have a workshop and the tools required to do so, but it has certainly given me ideas to make two loudspeakers using the tools I do.
TH-cam has suggested me this video. I just wanted to watch a couple of minutes and finally half an hour later... still here totally hypnotized. Great job. So satisfying.
I looked at everything! Durn! Even parts of commercials. Gonna build this for sure. Dude! Your workmanship is amazing! Most relaxing 30 minutes I've ever spent on TH-cam. THANK YOU.
From one carpenter to another I know we are always looking to improve our skills and get better with each project. Learning from others and passing on skills and knowledge is invaluable. So here's me doing my bit, next time you fix the internal structure. Rather than just glueing and screwing, it would be a lot stronger if you rebated a 3 to 5 mm channel for the panels to sit in. That way you've got three points of contact for the glue and less chance of the MDF splitting from the screw. I hope that helps and can be of benefit to you. I love your speaker builds and I'm building a pair of these for my living room.
Thank you for the tip. I have been considering cutting rabbets for the internal structure but decided to screw the pieces instead, saving me quite some time and effort. It would also complicate the project more. The speakers hold and look fine to this day. Though I'm sure it would have made the enclosure more sturdy if I had the rabbets cut for the internal bracing.
@DonnyTerek from one carpenter to two others, rabbiting the internal structure isn't necessary for a speaker build and would unnecessarily complicate the project. The internal structure does not serve the same purpose as a furniture style cabinet, and since you countersunk the screws and their only function is to stiffen the cabinet, splitting should not be a problem. If they were functioning as a shelf in a piece of furniture, it would help, but then you're not using mdf.
Although I don't know a thing about cabinet making, this is so satisfying to watch. Great video and so well filmed. It must have taken so much effort. Thanks for sharing.
I really like the circle-cutter jig you've made for the router. I've made my own design, but now will copy yours as it looks far superior. BTW, I've often been tempted to purchase the Amiga kit several times while browsing PartsExpress.
Thanks! I believe I saw such a circle cutting jig on TH-cam but can't recall where. Decided to make one myself, turned out great. Though it is really important to have tight fit of the parts to minimize any movement while cutting. Had a few enclosures ruined myself when the screw got loose and the router dug into the wood.
Excellent video, thank you. It’s always interesting to see good subject matter, but it’s so much better when you are not being interrupted with unnecessary commentary or music.
He did a great job. But, it really isn't super difficult. BTW, the vendor he used also sells kits with the wood panels precut. You might want give it a try sometime.
Excellent work, and very well done on the video! You make doing veneer look easy. I have built with Baltic birch, to avoid dealing with veneer. I would suggest either removing the woofer when drilling its screw holes, or covering the phase plug; to prevent any dust from getting into the voice coil.
Thank you a lot! Dealing with veneer is not so difficult after all as I thought it would be. Yup, I took extra care when drilling the woofer holes. Since they were a tight fit, I did not want to remove them to drill the holes. Might cover the phase plug next time!
@@DonnyTerek This kit might be a great starting point for a mass loaded transmission line speaker? I have been designing these, and they generally get you cleaner and deeper bass - and more open, less "boxy" midrange. You essentially get the internal baffles as braces, and the quality of the sound - assuming the MLTL design is right - you get the best possible sound from given drivers. I use the Hornresp program to design mine, and if I get a chance I will see if this woofer can work. I would try to make use of the front baffle, possibly?
@@DonnyTerek I watched this video again, and thought that it would be a good idea to add a rib across the inside of the front baffle, right between the drivers. This is the most stressed part of the cabinet, and so it needs to be better supported.
@@appleturnover519 It's not that hard and you don't have to be so serious about making them perfect. A jigsaw and a hand drill will get you a long way. It's simply a fun hobby.
I'd buy a pair of focal chorus 706 for the same price, or a pair of Wharfedale diamond 11.1 or triangle plaisir, etc davis acoustics made some decent tower speakers at that price. I live in France so prices are probably not the same as in the US.
Nice to see the Amigas getting some love! I built these a few years back and they are excellent for the money. I skipped the MDF flatpack cabinets and built the cabs entirely from Baltic Birch plywood. My only gripe is their low efficiency but I knew that going into the project and thats the compromise for F3 of 34 Hz in a relatively small cabinet.
"I skipped the MDF flatpack cabinets and built the cabs entirely from Baltic Birch plywood".. You spent more to make your speakers sound worse, congratulations...
I have used a similar jig and technique to recess flanges for many DIY speakers, but must say I like your jig more than mine and also picked up a few new tricks from your video. Thanks!
How and what established your center to center measurement of the drivers? Tip: try mixing up the thickness of the braces to avoid any resonance build up. MDF has a huge resonance peak at about 200 Hz
I haven't built the Amigas, but currently use a pair of PE's TriTrix MTM TL speakers as my left and right front speakers in my theater as well as one TriTrix MTM as center in horizontal orientation. I built these many years ago and they are still an amazing sounding front stage. Parts Express's kits are very underrated, I feel.
I've been looking at the TriTrix MTM speakers lately, looks like a great set. Might try building these soon. Absolutely agree with you that the PE's kits are underrated - they do deliver great quality at low price + the fun of building one!
Very good, you are the most serious person I have ever met, and you are also the person with the best craftsmanship. The speaker craftsmanship is exquisite and standardized.
Great video and excellent work. How long did it take in actuality? Also, from my own experience, it's not a good idea to drill the holes for the drivers while the drivers are in the enclosure. I've slipped and ruined expensive speakers before by doing that.
Also, in case of this woofer with its phase plug, small wood chips could get into the opening between membrane and phase plug and from there, maybe into the coil.
Thank you a lot! Hard to tell the actual time frame it took me to build these since I was filming the process which takes quite a lot of time. I would say a week worth of evenings from start to finish. Yep, I do agree that a steady hand is needed if drilling holes for the drivers while they are mounted in place. So far no drivers have been hurt by me.
Very nicely built project, sir -- and a very well shot video also! Thanks for taking the time and effort to put this together. Parts Express really does produce a nice speaker kit at a very reasonable price. I build a pair of their Overnight Sensation bookshelf speakers that I use as the front mains in my home theater and I've been very pleased with them. I found plans online for a matching center channel that I scratch built to complete the front soundstage. It really is hard to beat Parts Express for low cost yet decent sounding products!
Ah, Parts Express. I've known about them since the days of Mail Order. When I was a DJ many years ago, my partners and I built our own set of cabinets with speaker components , crossovers, and a book on Speaker Cabinet design purchased from them. With a little help on the carpentry work from one of our parents, they came out fantastic and sounded great!
Only complaint is @ 26:50 where you smash the soft dome face down, flat on the table, then moments later at installation the ring from being smashed is visible. I'll use scrap material and drill a relief hole so the dome won't be smashed flat.
@@titikalagan3024 I've been doing DIY for a very long time - so I'm not joking. Enter "proac d two inside" -> pictures -> and in which 8th row from the top will the photo be. They don't even take off the label - it's name is Peerless DX25TG used to be produced under the Vifa brand - they cost the same around 25 euro, it is known precisely under the name DX25TG (even Scan-Speak took it into its program, name is D2604/830000 - it costs more for them). In DIY it is considered a solid entry-level tweeter 😊
Oh how I wish my school had taught me woodworking skills. I feel I'd need several years just to learn the tools! Great video BTW. I'd love to be able to make something like this
You used sensible metric units instead of the stupid horse-and-buggy English inches and fractions. By the way I am a natural born US citizen living in Texas. Congratulations.
Donny, the crossover components you used are just fine. NO need to change component choices. And sand cast resistors ARE WIREWOUND RESISTORS. Nice job.
By DIY, you mean: if you have a few thousands (more? I have no sense) dollars of tools and (clearly) years of experience in woodworking (which you do), anyone can make these…. Or something…
Hi! Thanks for the comment. A DIY project definitely does not mean it is for meant for everyone. Some projects may require scissors and some tape, others a few more tools and experience. These speakers were designed so that people can make them with their own hands and the kits that Parts Express provide make it easier for people who may not have experience, time, tools etc. to have these speakers made by themselves. They even provide a full kit which can be assembled using minimal tools and experience, providing clear instructions and info. Since I am able and like to build the enclosures myself, I chose the 'hard' way of making these. And since I made them myself, I consider that quite a few other people can do it too. Hope this sums up my opinion on DIY.
Bro these types of kits could be done with hand tools from a budget store like harbor freight or for a few more pennies tools from a hardware store like home depot, lowes etc. Regardless though a drill, router, and saw will run you about $250 in total (i just spent $267 at home depot on the exact same tools from ryobi recently) so all in youre about $500 for these towers that prebuilt from a company with the same components would run you $2-3k
@@DonnyTerek By DIY, you mean: if you pull up your big boy/girl pants up and… Do It Yourself (which you do), instead of relying on Chinese slave labor to bring down the cost…. Or something… I think we can all agree, shame on you Donny for showing us what it would take to turn mundane material into finely crafted functional furniture and make money from it in the process instead excepting everything to be given to you for free.
Do you really expect to be able to make anything good if you are both poor and stupid? Life isn’t a video game. You can’t just make a house with 3 trees and an axe without knowledge or experience.
Wow that is too much work!! Doing the veneer, baffle, network, cut out etc. It looks easy but they are lots of work and good tools needed. Anyway you are a good craftsman the way you did this so clean and beautiful.
Thank you! It is quite a lot of work if you do it from scratch like I did. But Parts Express provides full cnc-cut kits which saves a lot of effort when assembling and no fancy tools are needed then.
Nice build! I also build speaker kits from PE. I was so glad to see you refrain from using hot glue to fix the X-over components. Every video I've ever seen on speaker building does that. I use silicone myself, which looks like what you are using here.
If you use thicker frontbaffles Troels Gravesen recommends chamfering the inside of the driver holes for midrange / midwoofer drivers for max breathing.
Excellent work! Didn't know these kits existed. Does the MDF inside require routing? Pictures show it routed out, but video had blanks. If I had to route the inside from blank, then this kit seems better suited as raw material for a small to medium sized speaker production company as their incoming raw stock for adapting, or an advanced diy-er. Not a casual assembly speaker build, unless it's prefab with the speaker holes routed. Is the inner volume generally, impedance matched to the speakers?
Thanks! The inside routing is not necessary but it is a good idea to have the inside edge of the woofer rounded over for smooth airflow. The speaker holes are routed and recessed for flush mounting. The enclosures that I made in the video are fully built from scratch, only the speaker components were provided by Parts Express.
Hi Donny thansk for this video, could you share de measures of the cabinet that you build in this video, this because the drawings you share looks some kind differents, and ill appreciate the internal distance between palets.
Чувак ппц как любит всё в стружку превращать :D Как бывший станочник понимаю) Технологичнее было бы склеить половину деталей типа внутренних перегородок, а не вырезать их из массива. С фрезером тоже не понял заморочку, особенно с отверстиями, особенно после того как засветил сверлильный станок, ну мб он ему нравится просто в работе) В общем тех процесс не отлажен😅 на 25:05 разные саморезы рвут мне душу😭, взял бы уже все под шестигранник красиво и надёжно. Ну и сверлить по рабочему динамику крепёжные отверстия, такое себе, быстро, но может выйти дорого.
We knew this project as "Baubo" in Brazil but I missed the inside duct to improve the bass. It's a cheap project that will result in incredible sound based on 6" car speakers. I made my ones.
I’m sure the speakers sound nice… Probably fantastic but your skill level is through the roof. They may sound great but they look gorgeous… You are an artist! Great video by the way.
Very nice work. One question: why did you route out and bevel the inner braces? They aren't visible, why not leave rough cut? Great job, thanks for sharing!
Oh, just watched a Parts Express video showing their knock down cabinet build. They didn't use any fasteners, it was all glue and clamp. Why did you screw yours, in addition to glue?
Hello, thank you. That is probably not necessary but it helps for smoother airflow inside the cabinet. Since mine weren't as accurate cuts as the Parts Express CNC cut pieces, I used screws. I used PVA D3 glue.
Stupid question, but how do you service them? The backside, or bottom, must always be possible to unscrew so you have access to the stuff inside, unless you’re going to destroy the case, which would be sad.
That's a good question, though there isn't much to service on these. The speaker drivers can be easily removed and right behind them is the crossover, which is held in by screws. Other than that is the port and connection terminals on the back.
Good job. Don't use solder as a glue. Make a physical connection first. Also don't tighten screws home on drivers. Finger tight on opposite sides, then tighten.
Donny you are very multi talented, one video you are building a DIY FAST e bike the next doing excellent wood working project. You must have one heck of a work shop.
the internal bracing. cleaning up the irregularly cut edges you cleaned up with a router, is that a necessary sonic thing to do or just striving for an aesthetic level of perfection?
That is most likely not necessary and would probably not make an audible difference to the ear but it is a good practice to round any sharp edges inside speaker enclosures for the air to move smoothly.
Gracias Donny por tu estupendo video y trabajo. He seguido tus instrucciones y me han quedado dos torres increíbles. Quería preguntarte si habría que modificar mucho las medidas internas para poner dos woofers en vez de uno solo, y si los dos en paralelo los podría manejar el mismo crossover.
Hello, thank you for the kind comment. I would not recommend modifying these speakers. That would require a complete rebuild of the enclosure and crossovers. Why would you want to have 2 woofers? At least to me these speakers have plenty of bass.
Hi Donny. Thanks so much for your help, the speakers are finished and sound great. I followed everything you did on the video and it worked a treat. Glueing the veneer on was really good using the hot iron method.
Hi! Sorry for the late reply. I'm fascinated to see that I've inspired you to build your own. I'm sure you are just as happy owning a pair of these as I am!
Hey, thanks for the nice video! How did you ship the kits to Europe? I believe you're in Vilnius, right? How much import taxes did you need to pay? Thanks!
Hi, the first coat is needed to soak into the MDF board so that the veneer has plenty of grip. The second coat of PVA (once the first one is dry) is let to try for around half an hour once it becomes tacky but does not stick to the finger. This will ensure both surfaces grip together and lock in place when heated with an iron.
By what method is the capacitance of capacitors selected? I have Jamo s506 acoustics, how can I improve their sound by picking up capacitors of a different capacity?
I noticed the tweeter had a nominal impedance of 4 and woofer 8 ohms is that ok and not problematic at all then? Really enjoyed the video . I found it very relaxing and interesting .
I would have made dado's for the cross braces... would have made for a stronger carcass and they'd be self aligned. As for screws, conformant screws are the preferred type for mdf.
What kind of PVA glue is this..? When I tried veneering with plain PVA it curled up in a few minutes to a tube. 🙂 How does it remain so flat with this type of glue? Why it doesn't move the grains while drying?
Interesting video... I enjoyed reading some of the comments as well, particularly the arguments as to whether or not MDF is superior to Birch etc ad nauseam. I began to relate back to how Acoustic Research (and other top tier manufacturers) used plywood in their boxes. Myself, I used MDF (back when they called it particle board before the abbreviation trends took hold) in every speaker box I ever built. Never had any issues, nor did the audio center I'd worked for that built custom speaker boxes on a daily basis (with a simple program I dug up from Usenet... remember them? 🙂) that was able to calculate port sizes and freq. rolloffs etc. as long as you knew the T.S. specs of the woofer. Now all that said, you did nice work. Much attention to detail. Myself, I'd have used a premium grade of contact cement which doesn't require "ironing", and a vernier saw to trim, still have the first vernier saw (German) I ever bought, still sharp. It would have eliminated the need to repair some of the edges in your boxes. I learned vernier work from an old school craftsman who specialized in furniture and vernier work. He's also the guy who described exactly what "hand rubbed finish" actually means. Expect to get sticky, especially with Teak-Öl. I listen to old people... they know stuff. BTW: Your flat iron trick and a hypodermic needle works very well in repairing ancient vernier that has started to blister, same old dude showed me that trick as well. I repaired an ancient "lawyer" book case (1916 vintage) that had blistered vernier, worked nicely, wasn't aware that vernier was that much of a thing a century ago. 🙂 All in all, a very good video... and I like that tweeter, gonna look up some sources.
Nice, I look forward to seeing the cross over and hope its not full of cheesy poly caps, Iron core inductors and sand cast resistors. I did notice one small issue your soldering the input connectors was good and they didn't have any magnetic parts in them. However the cables you used do not appear to be pure copper with the correct coating and the clip on's for the speakers are magnetic and that is two issues for inserting noise into the path of the music. Also thanks for the lesson on Veneering. I have a case for my Vintage Sansui I want to re-due with Teak veneer and a tincture style satin I forget the exact name. It only darkens the darker wood grains leaving the lighter grains alone. And I like your Jig pretty sweet.
Thank you. The cables are indeed pure copper. I did not consider that the clip ons can be magnetic, I might swap them for other ones later. Veneering is kind of fun actually. Quite satisfying to see the boring mdf panels coming to life.
@@DonnyTerek Well according to GR Reaserch the internal cables besides being of pure OFC need a specific type of coating.according to Danny. I assume it has to do with the properties of the electrical signals which run along the outside of the wire or to do with the electrical field the signal creates. He would know as a speaker designer and electrical engineer. lol unfortunately for me I have no room to build a pair myself. Thank you for the reply.
Mdf is heavier so I see how it helps sound quality but it is more flexible than plywood, do you think it would be better for it to be more rigid or heavier?
Nice work, hats off... However, I can't forgive myself for asking why you didn't choose speakers from the same manufacturer and why the bass speaker was used 8Ω and the tweeter 4Ω The only time it would make sense to me is that it is connected to the bridge, which according to the formula resistance... R = (R x R) : (R + R) = +-3 Ω Or what was the real reason? I assume it's not a loss of performance...
20:17 Circle Jig, adjustment, under side view. I'm impressed with it, curious how it works, how it's set. Nice work. Really liked the Oak veneer work and results. Wondering if I bought a pair of old speakers could I use them as the chassis base and then put in that new speaker and electronics kit you have used to update and improve them.
Thank you! The circle jig is pretty simple, you loosen the bolt that's on top to move the sliding part. This way you adjust the cutting radius. Unless you can source a pair of speakers the same size and internal volume as these, you could re-use them with somewhat similar results.
Perfect great job! If the front wall with the speakers was made of good quality wood (solid), there could be chamfered edges on the front panel. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with veneer. Still, it's a piece of honest work. Thanks for the video!
Nice video : Try some Nedlab capacitors and film resistors in the tweeter section. / coil placement could have been better / soldering the drivers instead of crimps is a plus.
Excellent woo0dworking skills with a brilliant finish, my only reservation will be only a 7 inch bass speaker will it reproduce the whole frequency range of a recording? with your great skills maybe a 3 way speaker system with a 10 inch good bass speaker would be better? but then again I think this depends on your musical preferences, Excellent job just the same n thanks for posting
Thank you! This is an amazing speaker design by Paul Carmody, intended for these 7 inch speakers. I'm sure there are better options out there but this pair of speakers is outstanding considering the low cost of materials and components used.
Basically due to the lower density of the plywood, you would get sound that is less clear than using MDF for the cabinet. MDF is also easier to work with.
I currently use that DX25 in my home theater speakers mated to Celestion TF0818 midbass "prosound" drivers. Original design had them crossed over a bit too high around 2.2khz, I recently re-enginerded the crossover and pulled it down to around 1600hz. The new parts will be here this week for the crossover upgrade. Can't wait to install! My rationale on using the TF0818 is that the system is intended to be crossed to a sub anyway, so might as well use something more optimized for the intended frequency range. The TF0818 are 5-8dB more sensitive than most 7-9" class HiFi midbass/woofer type drivers (even when compared to 4 ohm drivers) while still being very low distortion and having a pretty smooth response in their usable range. I have them playing down to ~80hz in a 3/4ft^3 box tuned to around 80hz.
Love that there is no voices no loud music at the background and just the noises of the speaker getting built
Thank you! Glad to see you enjoyed the video. I'm sure many viewers would like a voice-over added but I guess that's just my way of making videos.
@@DonnyTerek NO DON'T YOU DARE ever do a voice-over. And I speak as an ex teacher (from Civ. Eng industry), Lecturer, IT Trainer and professional Microsoft Presenter. Your video was EXCELLENT, also as ex RAF Photographer as your camera angles, lighting and capturing the action to be done, with hands not covering up everything was very professional - not an easy thing to do.
Too many TH-camrs waffle, do not prepare their script, actions do not match words, they play annoying background music as well, think they need to 'crazy' and over the top - all very annoying and distracting.
Also when an IT Teacher when British schools had the National Curriculum, I ended up being the temporary TECHNOLOGY Coordinator mainly as the CDT teachers were ex industry as I was, demanding and very good at getting kids to make wood, metal and plastic items - I became their boss. In truth, it was in name only and I found for two years (which I enjoyed and learnt a lot) taught Craft, Design and Technology. To my point, such experience I believe gives credence to state how good this video was, primarily you did not need a voice-over, and your actions shone out and as others on here stated, it was that good I bet many DIY guys will be making their own loudspeakers and even for others as well. Sadly, I do not have a workshop and the tools required to do so, but it has certainly given me ideas to make two loudspeakers using the tools I do.
I saw the intro and thought hey I can do this. Then kept watching. I realized you are a true crafts-man. Amazing quality to detail.
Thought the same thing, excellence at work
Just get the full kit and you at least dont need to worry about the wood cutting part.
The same, haha, but I really want to try, and maybe start my own biz.
Thank you so much! Truly appreciated.
Мастер он,- однако.
TH-cam has suggested me this video. I just wanted to watch a couple of minutes and finally half an hour later... still here totally hypnotized. Great job. So satisfying.
Hello
Wow, glad to see you liked the video! Thank you for watching.
Mee too 🤣 great work !! 👌
Great work.
Where do I get these components.
Thank you. Please check the description.
I looked at everything! Durn! Even parts of commercials. Gonna build this for sure. Dude! Your workmanship is amazing! Most relaxing 30 minutes I've ever spent on TH-cam. THANK YOU.
Awesome! Thank you! Very much appreciated. You won't regret building a set of these speakers, trust me, haha.
@@DonnyTerek I'm still a little conflicted choosing between the Amiga and the Tri-Trix T-line though.
From one carpenter to another I know we are always looking to improve our skills and get better with each project. Learning from others and passing on skills and knowledge is invaluable. So here's me doing my bit, next time you fix the internal structure. Rather than just glueing and screwing, it would be a lot stronger if you rebated a 3 to 5 mm channel for the panels to sit in. That way you've got three points of contact for the glue and less chance of the MDF splitting from the screw. I hope that helps and can be of benefit to you. I love your speaker builds and I'm building a pair of these for my living room.
Thank you for the tip. I have been considering cutting rabbets for the internal structure but decided to screw the pieces instead, saving me quite some time and effort. It would also complicate the project more. The speakers hold and look fine to this day. Though I'm sure it would have made the enclosure more sturdy if I had the rabbets cut for the internal bracing.
@DonnyTerek from one carpenter to two others, rabbiting the internal structure isn't necessary for a speaker build and would unnecessarily complicate the project. The internal structure does not serve the same purpose as a furniture style cabinet, and since you countersunk the screws and their only function is to stiffen the cabinet, splitting should not be a problem. If they were functioning as a shelf in a piece of furniture, it would help, but then you're not using mdf.
The parts may be worth $200, but the labour iw worth at least x10 more! I love your attention to detail. Well done sir!
$185 and about 6 months of my life ... this is something for later in life when the kids are a bit older. I can still dream.
Or get the pre-cut kit and spend a few evenings to glue it up! 😄
Although I don't know a thing about cabinet making, this is so satisfying to watch. Great video and so well filmed. It must have taken so much effort. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you a lot! Glad to see you enjoyed watching.
Nice job, there is something really satisfying about watching woodworking videos.
Thank you! Glad to see you liked it.
I watched the entire thing - and saw no wasted moves. Excellent showcase of shop skills and video editing!
Many thanks! Much appreciated.
Sprzęt kosztuje więcej jak kolumny.
I ta cała zabawa mogła być szybsza to nikt by nie połapał.
2 lata i gotowe super jaka cena wykonania.
I really like the circle-cutter jig you've made for the router. I've made my own design, but now will copy yours as it looks far superior. BTW, I've often been tempted to purchase the Amiga kit several times while browsing PartsExpress.
Thanks! I believe I saw such a circle cutting jig on TH-cam but can't recall where. Decided to make one myself, turned out great. Though it is really important to have tight fit of the parts to minimize any movement while cutting. Had a few enclosures ruined myself when the screw got loose and the router dug into the wood.
@@DonnyTerek Make a short video about the jig :) It seems to be one of the best ones.
@@SergeyPRKL Will keep that in mind!
Tip for milling holes , use a much smaller groove bit . 4 or 5 mm
For the cut out
Excellent video, thank you. It’s always interesting to see good subject matter, but it’s so much better when you are not being interrupted with unnecessary commentary or music.
This is so impressive to watch. Definitely not something I could do even if I had the tools. You guys really do have a awesome talent.
He did a great job. But, it really isn't super difficult. BTW, the vendor he used also sells kits with the wood panels precut. You might want give it a try sometime.
Wow, many thanks! Much appreciated.
@@williamborges3914 I would love to try this
Excellent work, and very well done on the video! You make doing veneer look easy. I have built with Baltic birch, to avoid dealing with veneer. I would suggest either removing the woofer when drilling its screw holes, or covering the phase plug; to prevent any dust from getting into the voice coil.
Thank you a lot! Dealing with veneer is not so difficult after all as I thought it would be. Yup, I took extra care when drilling the woofer holes. Since they were a tight fit, I did not want to remove them to drill the holes. Might cover the phase plug next time!
@@DonnyTerek This kit might be a great starting point for a mass loaded transmission line speaker? I have been designing these, and they generally get you cleaner and deeper bass - and more open, less "boxy" midrange. You essentially get the internal baffles as braces, and the quality of the sound - assuming the MLTL design is right - you get the best possible sound from given drivers. I use the Hornresp program to design mine, and if I get a chance I will see if this woofer can work. I would try to make use of the front baffle, possibly?
@@DonnyTerek I watched this video again, and thought that it would be a good idea to add a rib across the inside of the front baffle, right between the drivers. This is the most stressed part of the cabinet, and so it needs to be better supported.
A beautiful execution of a great speaker design. You can get nothing like these at a hi-fi store for anywhere near the price. Excellent!
Thank you a lot and very well said!
Yes!! After spending over $5000 on equipment and hours and hours of frustrating work while being confronted by a very steep learning curve. No thanks.
@@appleturnover519 It's not that hard and you don't have to be so serious about making them perfect. A jigsaw and a hand drill will get you a long way. It's simply a fun hobby.
@@appleturnover519 and they cost 300 per speaker for the parts alone.
but to be fair it is a hobby and a fun one.
I'd buy a pair of focal chorus 706 for the same price, or a pair of Wharfedale diamond 11.1 or triangle plaisir, etc davis acoustics made some decent tower speakers at that price. I live in France so prices are probably not the same as in the US.
Very nice cabinet making skills. You absolutely took your time and the finished product shows your effort.
Thank you very much! Means a lot to me.
Nice to see the Amigas getting some love! I built these a few years back and they are excellent for the money. I skipped the MDF flatpack cabinets and built the cabs entirely from Baltic Birch plywood. My only gripe is their low efficiency but I knew that going into the project and thats the compromise for F3 of 34 Hz in a relatively small cabinet.
I commend you on using Birch rather than MDF f****** MDF
@@anthonymartinez2582 A little more work but BB is a MUCH nicer material to work and live with.
@@anthonymartinez2582 MDF is used because of it ability to dampen resonant vibrations.
"I skipped the MDF flatpack cabinets and built the cabs entirely from Baltic Birch plywood"..
You spent more to make your speakers sound worse, congratulations...
@@mymodel6 you’ve got golden ears, congratulations
I have used a similar jig and technique to recess flanges for many DIY speakers, but must say I like your jig more than mine and also picked up a few new tricks from your video. Thanks!
Thank you so much! Happy to see that you found the video useful.
great vaneering skills , they looked better than you could buy from a shop
Wow, thank you! It is a relaxing procedure to have the enclosures veneered. Takes a bit of time and patience but the result is well worth it.
How and what established your center to center measurement of the drivers?
Tip: try mixing up the thickness of the braces to avoid any resonance build up. MDF has a huge resonance peak at about 200 Hz
Hi, thank you for the tip. The design wasn't created by me.
I haven't built the Amigas, but currently use a pair of PE's TriTrix MTM TL speakers as my left and right front speakers in my theater as well as one TriTrix MTM as center in horizontal orientation. I built these many years ago and they are still an amazing sounding front stage. Parts Express's kits are very underrated, I feel.
I've been looking at the TriTrix MTM speakers lately, looks like a great set. Might try building these soon. Absolutely agree with you that the PE's kits are underrated - they do deliver great quality at low price + the fun of building one!
Very good, you are the most serious person I have ever met, and you are also the person with the best craftsmanship. The speaker craftsmanship is exquisite and standardized.
Great video and excellent work. How long did it take in actuality? Also, from my own experience, it's not a good idea to drill the holes for the drivers while the drivers are in the enclosure. I've slipped and ruined expensive speakers before by doing that.
Also, in case of this woofer with its phase plug, small wood chips could get into the opening between membrane and phase plug and from there, maybe into the coil.
Thank you a lot!
Hard to tell the actual time frame it took me to build these since I was filming the process which takes quite a lot of time. I would say a week worth of evenings from start to finish. Yep, I do agree that a steady hand is needed if drilling holes for the drivers while they are mounted in place. So far no drivers have been hurt by me.
You made a seal/gasket for the tweeter but I didn’t see you do it for the woofer and was just wondering why not? Great video
Thanks!
The woofers have a gasket pre-installed in factory.
Very nicely built project, sir -- and a very well shot video also! Thanks for taking the time and effort to put this together.
Parts Express really does produce a nice speaker kit at a very reasonable price. I build a pair of their Overnight Sensation bookshelf speakers that I use as the front mains in my home theater and I've been very pleased with them. I found plans online for a matching center channel that I scratch built to complete the front soundstage.
It really is hard to beat Parts Express for low cost yet decent sounding products!
Wow, thank you so much! Truly appreciated.
PE's kits are indeed underrated, considering the overall quality for the low price they provide.
ooooooooopoooooopoooooo
The sound of the glue bottle brushing against the wood was so satisfying 😫
Ah, Parts Express. I've known about them since the days of Mail Order. When I was a DJ many years ago, my partners and I built our own set of cabinets with speaker components , crossovers, and a book on Speaker Cabinet design purchased from them. With a little help on the carpentry work from one of our parents, they came out fantastic and sounded great!
Awesome to hear that! Great company they are.
Only complaint is @ 26:50 where you smash the soft dome face down, flat on the table, then moments later at installation the ring from being smashed is visible.
I'll use scrap material and drill a relief hole so the dome won't be smashed flat.
By the way, this is the same tweeter (price 25 euro), which the british put in their bookshelf speakers ProAc Response D Two (price of 5200 euro) 😆😂🤣
Lmao not superior
Not surprised****
What ? !!!! Areyou sure ?
@@titikalagan3024 I've been doing DIY for a very long time - so I'm not joking. Enter "proac d two inside" -> pictures -> and in which 8th row from the top will the photo be. They don't even take off the label - it's name is Peerless DX25TG used to be produced under the Vifa brand - they cost the same around 25 euro, it is known precisely under the name DX25TG (even Scan-Speak took it into its program, name is D2604/830000 - it costs more for them). In DIY it is considered a solid entry-level tweeter 😊
@@genaishivatov1737 incredible..👍
Great job! Magnet structure on those tweeters were impressive. Did you just receive drivers, crossover parts, and plans?
very relaxing watch
Glad you enjoyed it!
Oh how I wish my school had taught me woodworking skills. I feel I'd need several years just to learn the tools! Great video BTW. I'd love to be able to make something like this
Thank you! That's why pre-cut kits are provided in order to skip most of the tools. Links in the description if interested.
good video👍👍
Thank you! 👍
$185? The speakers are priceless. Enjoyed the video.
30 minute video felt like 5 minutes.
Dayton audio, I always support local businesses. Good product 👌🏼
You used sensible metric units instead of the stupid horse-and-buggy English inches and fractions. By the way I am a natural born US citizen living in Texas. Congratulations.
On the right way.
Wow, thank you! Not a big fan of Imperial units myself, haha.
horse dont use inches, or metric. even in texas.
Donny, the crossover components you used are just fine. NO need to change component choices. And sand cast resistors ARE WIREWOUND RESISTORS. Nice job.
Thank you a lot!
Good
Thanks!
Fantastic! It certainly makes me appreciate the craftsmanship that went into my Neat Motive 3 more.
By DIY, you mean: if you have a few thousands (more? I have no sense) dollars of tools and (clearly) years of experience in woodworking (which you do), anyone can make these…. Or something…
Hi! Thanks for the comment. A DIY project definitely does not mean it is for meant for everyone. Some projects may require scissors and some tape, others a few more tools and experience. These speakers were designed so that people can make them with their own hands and the kits that Parts Express provide make it easier for people who may not have experience, time, tools etc. to have these speakers made by themselves. They even provide a full kit which can be assembled using minimal tools and experience, providing clear instructions and info. Since I am able and like to build the enclosures myself, I chose the 'hard' way of making these. And since I made them myself, I consider that quite a few other people can do it too. Hope this sums up my opinion on DIY.
Bro these types of kits could be done with hand tools from a budget store like harbor freight or for a few more pennies tools from a hardware store like home depot, lowes etc. Regardless though a drill, router, and saw will run you about $250 in total (i just spent $267 at home depot on the exact same tools from ryobi recently) so all in youre about $500 for these towers that prebuilt from a company with the same components would run you $2-3k
@@DonnyTerek By DIY, you mean: if you pull up your big boy/girl pants up and… Do It Yourself (which you do), instead of relying on Chinese slave labor to bring down the cost…. Or something… I think we can all agree, shame on you Donny for showing us what it would take to turn mundane material into finely crafted functional furniture and make money from it in the process instead excepting everything to be given to you for free.
Take this as inspiration to start learning woodworking.
Do you really expect to be able to make anything good if you are both poor and stupid? Life isn’t a video game. You can’t just make a house with 3 trees and an axe without knowledge or experience.
Wow that is too much work!! Doing the veneer, baffle, network, cut out etc. It looks easy but they are lots of work and good tools needed. Anyway you are a good craftsman the way you did this so clean and beautiful.
Thank you! It is quite a lot of work if you do it from scratch like I did. But Parts Express provides full cnc-cut kits which saves a lot of effort when assembling and no fancy tools are needed then.
Nice build! I also build speaker kits from PE. I was so glad to see you refrain from using hot glue to fix the X-over components. Every video I've ever seen on speaker building does that. I use silicone myself, which looks like what you are using here.
Much appreciated, thank you! Yep, silicone works well to keep the components in place and reduce vibrations.
If you use thicker frontbaffles Troels Gravesen recommends chamfering the inside of the driver holes for midrange / midwoofer drivers for max breathing.
Really nice cross-over work here.
Excellent work! Didn't know these kits existed. Does the MDF inside require routing? Pictures show it routed out, but video had blanks. If I had to route the inside from blank, then this kit seems better suited as raw material for a small to medium sized speaker production company as their incoming raw stock for adapting, or an advanced diy-er. Not a casual assembly speaker build, unless it's prefab with the speaker holes routed. Is the inner volume generally, impedance matched to the speakers?
I wondered why so much effort went into making the round overs etc when they were just to be covered up.
Thanks! The inside routing is not necessary but it is a good idea to have the inside edge of the woofer rounded over for smooth airflow. The speaker holes are routed and recessed for flush mounting. The enclosures that I made in the video are fully built from scratch, only the speaker components were provided by Parts Express.
Hi Donny thansk for this video, could you share de measures of the cabinet that you build in this video, this because the drawings you share looks some kind differents, and ill appreciate the internal distance between palets.
Sir,
Very nice work!
I think that the SEAS A26 kit would suit your craftmanship even better!
Very nice video!
Thank you!
Would love to put my hands on one of those kits, but the price as a bit steep!
Чувак ппц как любит всё в стружку превращать :D Как бывший станочник понимаю) Технологичнее было бы склеить половину деталей типа внутренних перегородок, а не вырезать их из массива. С фрезером тоже не понял заморочку, особенно с отверстиями, особенно после того как засветил сверлильный станок, ну мб он ему нравится просто в работе) В общем тех процесс не отлажен😅 на 25:05 разные саморезы рвут мне душу😭, взял бы уже все под шестигранник красиво и надёжно. Ну и сверлить по рабочему динамику крепёжные отверстия, такое себе, быстро, но может выйти дорого.
We knew this project as "Baubo" in Brazil but I missed the inside duct to improve the bass. It's a cheap project that will result in incredible sound based on 6" car speakers. I made my ones.
great job, but why didn't you veneer the wood first, then cut all the holes? saves from sawdust and debris collecting in the case once its sealed up.
For the webbing, I would make one as a template then use a copy bit on a router to make the rest.
Excellent workmanship!
Thank you!
I’m sure the speakers sound nice… Probably fantastic but your skill level is through the roof. They may sound great but they look gorgeous… You are an artist! Great video by the way.
Wow, thank you so much! Truly appreciated.
Very nice work. One question: why did you route out and bevel the inner braces? They aren't visible, why not leave rough cut? Great job, thanks for sharing!
Oh, just watched a Parts Express video showing their knock down cabinet build. They didn't use any fasteners, it was all glue and clamp. Why did you screw yours, in addition to glue?
Another question: what glue did you use: PVC? Contact? Bondtite wood?
Hello, thank you. That is probably not necessary but it helps for smoother airflow inside the cabinet.
Since mine weren't as accurate cuts as the Parts Express CNC cut pieces, I used screws. I used PVA D3 glue.
Stupid question, but how do you service them? The backside, or bottom, must always be possible to unscrew so you have access to the stuff inside, unless you’re going to destroy the case, which would be sad.
That's a good question, though there isn't much to service on these. The speaker drivers can be easily removed and right behind them is the crossover, which is held in by screws. Other than that is the port and connection terminals on the back.
Wow nice video of detailed work. 90% work of cabinet... 10% everything else.
That's speaker building in a nutshell
Good job. Don't use solder as a glue. Make a physical connection first. Also don't tighten screws home on drivers. Finger tight on opposite sides, then tighten.
Thank you.
Great build, really enjoyed this video.
How long did it take you to finish the speakers?
Thank you! It is hard to say since filming takes most of the time. It took me a couple of weeks' evenings to build these.
The amiga sell on parts express, does it include the speakers as well? Or is just the cabinet? Are you in the US?
Yes, they do include the speaker drivers as well. I am in the EU.
Could iron the sheets while building them Multi tasking ! Cool , nice job . Good luck with them !
Donny you are very multi talented, one video you are building a DIY FAST e bike the next doing excellent wood working project. You must have one heck of a work shop.
Thank you so much! I actually do not own many tools or a large workshop.
What a pleasure to watch. Great project, but why did you choose MDF, (price)?
Thank you!
MDF is a great choice for speaker building due to its qualities and relatively low price compared to plywood.
Just an FYI - there are plenty of woodworking adjustable countersink drill bit sets out there. They save time and produce a better end result.
the internal bracing. cleaning up the irregularly cut edges you cleaned up with a router, is that a necessary sonic thing to do or just striving for an aesthetic level of perfection?
That is most likely not necessary and would probably not make an audible difference to the ear but it is a good practice to round any sharp edges inside speaker enclosures for the air to move smoothly.
Gracias Donny por tu estupendo video y trabajo. He seguido tus instrucciones y me han quedado dos torres increíbles.
Quería preguntarte si habría que modificar mucho las medidas internas para poner dos woofers en vez de uno solo, y si los dos en paralelo los podría manejar el mismo crossover.
Hello, thank you for the kind comment. I would not recommend modifying these speakers. That would require a complete rebuild of the enclosure and crossovers. Why would you want to have 2 woofers? At least to me these speakers have plenty of bass.
Hi Donny. Thanks so much for your help, the speakers are finished and sound great. I followed everything you did on the video and it worked a treat. Glueing the veneer on was really good using the hot iron method.
Hi! Sorry for the late reply. I'm fascinated to see that I've inspired you to build your own. I'm sure you are just as happy owning a pair of these as I am!
Классные колонки изготовлены, профессионал высочайшего уровня!
Ну да, тем более с такой мастерской можно хоть мелкосерийное пр-во открывать) А я всё на коленке подручным инструментом)))
Hey, thanks for the nice video! How did you ship the kits to Europe? I believe you're in Vilnius, right? How much import taxes did you need to pay? Thanks!
Hi Donny. Is there any need to do two coats of PVA (letting one dry first) or would one work ok? I'm getting very close to putting the veneer on.
Hi, the first coat is needed to soak into the MDF board so that the veneer has plenty of grip. The second coat of PVA (once the first one is dry) is let to try for around half an hour once it becomes tacky but does not stick to the finger. This will ensure both surfaces grip together and lock in place when heated with an iron.
By what method is the capacitance of capacitors selected? I have Jamo s506 acoustics, how can I improve their sound by picking up capacitors of a different capacity?
Wow! These look as good as - if not better than some - what you'll find in any HiFi shop. Nice!
Thank you! Much appreciated.
Very nice. Would you put these in a home theater and if so what center speaker would you pair with these?
Very clean build
Thanks!
my favorite part was when you were putting together that driver board! that was so cool!
This is now my favourite video ever. Fantastic work!
Thank you so much! Truly appreciated.
Great job! Everything is done very carefully and thoughtfully.
Thank you! Means a lot to me.
I noticed the tweeter had a nominal impedance of 4 and woofer 8 ohms is that ok and not problematic at all then? Really enjoyed the video . I found it very relaxing and interesting .
That is not a problem, the crossovers are designed for this woofer and tweeter. Thank you! Glad to see you enjoyed the video.
That veneering job is on another level
Thanks!
Built something similar using Dynaudio drivers 25 years ago, still going strong so something like this can last a lifetime if you do it right.
Well said!
I would have made dado's for the cross braces... would have made for a stronger carcass and they'd be self aligned. As for screws, conformant screws are the preferred type for mdf.
What kind of PVA glue is this..? When I tried veneering with plain PVA it curled up in a few minutes to a tube. 🙂
How does it remain so flat with this type of glue? Why it doesn't move the grains while drying?
Hi, I am using PVA D3 glue. It does curl up the veneer but I use a heat gun to make the drying process faster.
Absolute craftsman! Thanks for doing this loved watching the video.
Much appreciated, thank you!
Great video,Amazing skills.Think the crimped spade connectors are the weak link to a fantastic project
Thanks! Much appreciated. I added a bit of solder on the crimped parts off-camera.
Nice. The music used for the outro is very Pink Floyd.
In an amplifier, large ceramic resistors get 🔥🔥🔥. IDK if they will in a crossover, but be careful mounting to wood.
Is the outro a sound demo of the finalized speaker?
EDIT: Nvm, I got it.
What's special with those pointed 2 piece feet. Is it solely for appearance or it provides any functional benifit?
It is more for appearance than function but they do reduce the vibration produced by the speakers to the ground or in this case the TV stand.
Interesting video... I enjoyed reading some of the comments as well, particularly the arguments as to whether or not MDF is superior to Birch etc ad nauseam. I began to relate back to how Acoustic Research (and other top tier manufacturers) used plywood in their boxes. Myself, I used MDF (back when they called it particle board before the abbreviation trends took hold) in every speaker box I ever built. Never had any issues, nor did the audio center I'd worked for that built custom speaker boxes on a daily basis (with a simple program I dug up from Usenet... remember them? 🙂) that was able to calculate port sizes and freq. rolloffs etc. as long as you knew the T.S. specs of the woofer. Now all that said, you did nice work. Much attention to detail. Myself, I'd have used a premium grade of contact cement which doesn't require "ironing", and a vernier saw to trim, still have the first vernier saw (German) I ever bought, still sharp. It would have eliminated the need to repair some of the edges in your boxes. I learned vernier work from an old school craftsman who specialized in furniture and vernier work. He's also the guy who described exactly what "hand rubbed finish" actually means. Expect to get sticky, especially with Teak-Öl. I listen to old people... they know stuff. BTW: Your flat iron trick and a hypodermic needle works very well in repairing ancient vernier that has started to blister, same old dude showed me that trick as well. I repaired an ancient "lawyer" book case (1916 vintage) that had blistered vernier, worked nicely, wasn't aware that vernier was that much of a thing a century ago. 🙂
All in all, a very good video... and I like that tweeter, gonna look up some sources.
Thank you so much! Was a pleasure to read through. Don't get many comments this long too often!
Rounding or chamfering the outside edges of the cabinets will reduce diffraction effects on the sound. Particularly important on the front.
Nice, I look forward to seeing the cross over and hope its not full of cheesy poly caps, Iron core inductors and sand cast resistors. I did notice one small issue your soldering the input connectors was good and they didn't have any magnetic parts in them. However the cables you used do not appear to be pure copper with the correct coating and the clip on's for the speakers are magnetic and that is two issues for inserting noise into the path of the music. Also thanks for the lesson on Veneering. I have a case for my Vintage Sansui I want to re-due with Teak veneer and a tincture style satin I forget the exact name. It only darkens the darker wood grains leaving the lighter grains alone. And I like your Jig pretty sweet.
Thank you. The cables are indeed pure copper. I did not consider that the clip ons can be magnetic, I might swap them for other ones later.
Veneering is kind of fun actually. Quite satisfying to see the boring mdf panels coming to life.
@@DonnyTerek Well according to GR Reaserch the internal cables besides being of pure OFC need a specific type of coating.according to Danny. I assume it has to do with the properties of the electrical signals which run along the outside of the wire or to do with the electrical field the signal creates. He would know as a speaker designer and electrical engineer. lol unfortunately for me I have no room to build a pair myself. Thank you for the reply.
Mdf is heavier so I see how it helps sound quality but it is more flexible than plywood, do you think it would be better for it to be more rigid or heavier?
Fine job, that's a helluva lot of work.
Nice work, hats off... However, I can't forgive myself for asking why you didn't choose speakers from the same manufacturer and why the bass speaker was used 8Ω and the tweeter 4Ω The only time it would make sense to me is that it is connected to the bridge, which according to the formula resistance... R = (R x R) : (R + R) = +-3 Ω Or what was the real reason? I assume it's not a loss of performance...
Thank you! These are designed by Paul Carmody. More on the design: bit.ly/3Jm8xYj
20:17 Circle Jig, adjustment, under side view. I'm impressed with it, curious how it works, how it's set.
Nice work.
Really liked the Oak veneer work and results.
Wondering if I bought a pair of old speakers could I use them as the chassis base and then put in that new speaker and electronics kit you have used to update and improve them.
Thank you!
The circle jig is pretty simple, you loosen the bolt that's on top to move the sliding part. This way you adjust the cutting radius.
Unless you can source a pair of speakers the same size and internal volume as these, you could re-use them with somewhat similar results.
Perfect great job! If the front wall with the speakers was made of good quality wood (solid), there could be chamfered edges on the front panel. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with veneer.
Still, it's a piece of honest work. Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much! It is possible to have chamfers with veneer but I feel it is a bit too much work for me.
Nice video : Try some Nedlab capacitors and film resistors in the tweeter section. / coil placement could have been better / soldering the drivers instead of crimps is a plus.
Thank you for the tips! Might try that out to see if I hear any difference.
Great looking build. Very skillfully put together as well. Nice job. They look great.
Thank you so much!
Excellent woo0dworking skills with a brilliant finish, my only reservation will be only a 7 inch bass speaker will it reproduce the whole frequency range of a recording? with your great skills maybe a 3 way speaker system with a 10 inch good bass speaker would be better? but then again I think this depends on your musical preferences, Excellent job just the same n thanks for posting
Thank you! This is an amazing speaker design by Paul Carmody, intended for these 7 inch speakers. I'm sure there are better options out there but this pair of speakers is outstanding considering the low cost of materials and components used.
Is the any downside (other than cost) to using Baltic birch plywood instead of MDM?
Basically due to the lower density of the plywood, you would get sound that is less clear than using MDF for the cabinet. MDF is also easier to work with.
I currently use that DX25 in my home theater speakers mated to Celestion TF0818 midbass "prosound" drivers. Original design had them crossed over a bit too high around 2.2khz, I recently re-enginerded the crossover and pulled it down to around 1600hz. The new parts will be here this week for the crossover upgrade. Can't wait to install!
My rationale on using the TF0818 is that the system is intended to be crossed to a sub anyway, so might as well use something more optimized for the intended frequency range. The TF0818 are 5-8dB more sensitive than most 7-9" class HiFi midbass/woofer type drivers (even when compared to 4 ohm drivers) while still being very low distortion and having a pretty smooth response in their usable range. I have them playing down to ~80hz in a 3/4ft^3 box tuned to around 80hz.