You should almost try with drilling random holes ( size and location in the center steel and fill that with copper and then do a traditional copper / steel Damascus. I think it would make for an interesting pattern for a blade.
I just finished a video of my first cu-mai by hand. Didn't realize you had beat me to it. Dennis Tyrell has been a friend of mine for about a year now. I've heard him talk about you. This is my first time watching you work. You and Dennis both make better videos than me. Good job on your cu-mai, I think it'll look good. My copper pipe had thinner wall thickness and was very old. Forge on my by hand brother. 🗡👍
You could even put it all in a container of some sort and melt it all together and it could be like some sort of canister or something that would be unique and never seen before like a one of a kind
Thank you very much Daniel! I really appreciated that compliment! I just finished grinding and heat treating the dagger tonight! The video will post Sunday morning and it is sweeeet! See you there
Dude the suspense is killing me... seriously! I think it is going to be cool as heck, but I think making deeper etching in the steel will only be muy bueno-er! BTW- your channel is awesome... keep ‘er goin’ fer sher!
I enjoyed the video. I don't forge. Educational and different from what Tyrell Knife Works did. Cannot wait to see what Eric does. I follow all three of you. 👍👍👍👍💯 Blessings
Digging that billet, Airin! Should look awesome on a steep-bevelled blade like a dagger! 🗡 Well done 👍🏻 for thinking up an alternative method, too. This is why your channel is on the up 🚀. That and your improving editing skills 👌🏻 (you have snow, too! So far we’re snow-free, but if it does come, my 4x4 Land Rover should be useful!) Boom! 🇬🇧🤜🏻⚡️🤛🏻🇺🇸
We will soon see! I have been intrigued by Cu mai for some time. I follow a guy on Instagram called Dakota Wilson who uses cu mai a lot! His work is fantastic!
I was wondering when someone would simply get things up to temp and melt the copper to form a copper 'braze'. Im not convinced you even need to hit it. You may need to grind more of an intentional pattern to get the desired affect though. Match up the highs with the lows. be very interesting to see what you get. it certainly seems to have stuck!
Actually what you stated was exactly what I'm trying to do in this video the only reason I tapped it with the hammer was just to expel any air gaps that might be between the layers
@@Aleeknivesif it works like other forms of brazing, capillary action should allow the copper to flow into every nook and cranny. if i get a chance in the near future ill try simply stacking some pieces and not even welding them together first. Just heat it up and let the braze do its job. may need some flux though.
@@Aleeknives (first video of yours I've seen, youtube suggested lol) You're the first youtuber (or any smith I've met in real life) I've seen that has figured out that this is just brazing (and how I've always done it) lol everyone struggles with 'oh no it's too hot', just let it cool and it's stuck, then warm it up and beat the hell out of it :P
I am pretty sure I'm going to wish that I had cut my grooves in my layers deeper to give me more of a striking pattern I'll know tonight when I start cutting a knife blank out of it!
7:54 I know it's just for meme but to all the others that are not sure, your screen is not capable of producing light dangerous enough to even partially damage your sight
Totalky true! It wasn't even done as a meme though I just wanted it to be a little more enjoyable to watch for you guys. I was laying in bed in a dark room when I was watching someone weld and got the idea to shroud the arch
Thanks for the mention! Yeah, I was thinking that copper was pretty thick but your idea of doing a dagger is a good one. Curious what that grinding is going to do to the pattern and if it will be active enough. We'll see! Nice job though, looks solid!
@@Aleeknives I think drawing out the billet a bit on the anvil would help too. Spencer at heavy forge just did a 15 layer billet with a bunch of thin copper layers. I think thinner and more layers is a good idea.
watched all 3 videos on this knife... great, loved them n the knife... i want it but im sure i cant afford it sooo...well done.. learned a lot...1 question.. what was the pen made of, ive been thinking about using delron plastic rod to get some new color ...??? thanks....
Really enjoy your videos. What thickness of steel and copper did you use? Been thinking about trying this and don't want to buy steel I might not use. Thanks and keep up the great work!!
This is the part of experimenting that is the fun! Run your core material thinner because it doesn't really move or stretch much. The outer layers, if you want hammer marks run 1/16th if you want to finish it smooth run 3/32nd
Blocking out the weld arc is a nice touch for people that are watching the video in a dark room. I under no circumstance believe it will harm you to look at it on camera but also don't feel the need to flash anyone's eyesight at the same time.
So this is the third Cu Mai i've seen (with Tyrell's and Heavy Forge's being the other 2). Very cool! My question is: with the copper running all the way through it, does that weaken the mechanical strength of the meat of the blade? In other words, could it be more prone to bend/warp? Or are the outer and inner layers strong enough to keep it rigid?
The inner layer alone should be able to withstand the abuse! By adding the outer layers of 15n20 that will also be heat treated the knife will solid. Honestly the only reason to add a copper layer is for looks it doesn't improve function. Similar to pattern welded steel, it doesn't make a better cutting instrument but it looks darn cool! I made the core from 1084 so it will hold a super edge!
I watched your presentation on this particular art for a reason I am not interested in the lamenat of copper to steal but copper to copper and is were this is going to take me if you can help me opon my quest I will appreciate it or if you have any knowledge to share I will also be looking for sources of knowledge to learn more of the Damascus arts Thank you in advance pS For the knowledge I have gained so far I feal you may have more For me the future is bright and you my friend may have the tools I am looking for Time to say thank you a press the bell
I see now! I had an understanding of the word amalgamate, however, I did not know that amalgamation in metallurgy had a different meaning. Thank you for the lesson in English.
I am constantly learning and hopefully moving in the right direction! You will never learn anything if the people around you don't take the time to help and teach, so thank you!
There's absolutely no reason that the copper needs to melt...look up diffusion bonding. To make this work like any other plain damascus you only need to go up to 85% of the actual melting temp of the metal that melts first in the stack. Copper melts at about 1950°f........if you put this cu mai stack in the forge and heat it to 1650° you can hammer or press forge that copper to the steel. I have done this a few times a few years back. What doesnt work with cu - mai is extreme distortion (feather pattern , torsion pattern) because the copper is way softer than the steel...it would basically shear off under stress. If you can make this to work ...next step up is making a piece of mokuti (titanium damascus ) and forge weld that to a steel core ;) ;) Here's an example scontent.fbru1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131896735_3546496745432390_7905802974837159450_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=3&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=PP9hnk56rSsAX_XWIZl&_nc_ht=scontent.fbru1-1.fna&oh=651250edb66555905ccc9ebafe56a495&oe=60524737 You can also forge the cu mai thinner...just keep it well below the meltpoint of the copper. Only flatten the billet in small increments and heat it back up. If you overdo the flattening cycle the copper workhardens and could let go of the steel. This was one i made a few years back.....its a copper,nickel to steel cu-mai blade with copper , nickel to mild steel bolsters and endcap. scontent.fbru1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/60473624_2224069774341767_8239102812651257856_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=3&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=M4V88yWzjN4AX8WVTc8&_nc_ht=scontent.fbru1-1.fna&oh=9ca1a195f8ea4ab98f995e7ac7673065&oe=605018CB
Oh my that titanium Damascus cladded steel is insane! Thank you for sharing your knowledge here with us! I will do some more research on that titanium.!
@@Aleeknives You will not find much if any info at all on bonding/forging mokuti to steel......since not to much have done this with succes. First try to make mokuti (you will find info on that part)....the mokuti , thats really the easyest part.(think oxigen free environnement) . Than forge that mokuti on steel you again need a perfect oxigen free and clean metal stack and you need an adittional layer of a certain metal between the steel and mokuti to make this work. I wont tell you what that metal is right now since it would take the fun in experimenting away. Another tip. For the core use a carbon steel type that once hardened and tempered can stand about 900-950° without losing hardness (it does exists). You need that kind of steel because the coloring of the mokuti is done hot by a small propane flame. Its not cheap this experimenting though. :)
You are probably one of the coolest people that have ever commented on the channel! I don't even know you but your ideas and knowledge of said ideas is intriguing! Thank you for your input!
@@Aleeknives Thanks. What good is knowledge if no one shares it ?? I enjoy looking at knifebuilding video's and channels like yours. Its a way to see how other knifemakers make their creations...and what they do different /better. Since you are not constantly fishing/begging for money like alot of other makers lately do... the least i can do is share the little i know...maybe it helps other makers? This cu-mai(go mai) is actually not new...many years back i saw a few video's from a Russian selling cu-mai blades...and later i stumbled upon William Henry pocketknives.....just wanted to have a go at that. I am far from making pocketknives like the beautifull William Henry ones....i probably never will get at that high level. But trying to get there is part of the fun in making knives (and other things). Your way of doing this cu -mai(or go mai) is very different than what others are doing....that in itself is interesting to see. ( sorry for the bad English writing....Dutch is my motherlanguage as a citizen from Belgium)
Thank you for noticing that I am here on TH-cam truly to pass on my knowledge to newer makers! I may not know a lot, I might not be a master, in fact I consider myself a novice even after doing this for coming up on 10 years but I can't help but try to get more people into the hobby or profession. I own and operate a telephone company here in the 🇺🇸 and I did not got to college! I have a strong message to share with kids out there, that college isn't for everyone and just because you didn't go or weren't successful that doesn't mean squat in the real world and you can create a wonderful life on your own if you put your mind to it using your passion about something! Thanks again for sharing! My email is airinlee@swbell.net if you want to start a thread and send some pictures! I would love that!
You do know that a welding arc through a TV screen or computer monitor or telephone screen is not bright enough to hurt anybody’s eyes I’m just saying not trying to be smart Alec or anything because I see people do that all the time and your screen will never be as intense as the Live ark will
That's not actually why I do it. Many people watch these videos on their phones sitting in dark rooms and the weld flare kills your night vision and makes it hard to watch the content. Cheers
For exclusive content and one on one coaching opportunities click here
www.patreon.com/Aleeknives
First person I've seen block out the welding arc. Thank you!
😁 I wondered if anyone would notice! Your welcome! Thanks for watching my videos, glad to have you!
What welding arc?
Not a lot of makers go through the trouble of shielding the welding arc...👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Gonna need the second part of this ASAP, thanks
Part 2 will drop Sunday morning! I ground the blade and heat treated last night and WOW! Hope to see you there on sunday!
But I do want you to know that I do enjoy your videos and content I’ve been watching you for quite some time
Is it just me or does he look slightly stoned? 😂 the cheesy smile gives it away lol but on a serious note you make this look easy. Good work.
😂🤣
Using the copper as the glue! Brilliant man
"This os the way" 😂🤣
Copper lines are looking cool there. Dagger wow my favourite style of knife. Looking forward👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥
Yay! I can't wait! I will start the grind tonight!
I love it man, forge on brother!
Thank you! Will do
Looking forward to the finished product, you have learned new skills.
I am in the process of learning every day!
Do you think my experiment will make interesting patterns in the steel!
Idk but i hope it does. It's gunna be a gorgeous dagger either way
Thanks Nate!
I'm excited and can't wait... But I have to... Thanks Aaron
Sorry for the wait man! I film in realtime
YES !!!!
Dude, this was bloody brilliant! Some fantastic ideas and processes here. Glad I found your channel
Thank you Phil! My mind is blowing up with ideas after this build!
Much love.
I saw a very handsome Chevrolet truck, a model not available locally.
😁thank you about my truck! It's name is Dagger ironically
You should almost try with drilling random holes ( size and location in the center steel and fill that with copper and then do a traditional copper / steel Damascus. I think it would make for an interesting pattern for a blade.
As long as the edge steel isn't compromised with the copper it would be really cool!
Interesting!
s2
Amazing video! Thanks for sharing!
Looking forward to part 2!
Glad you found it
I just finished a video of my first cu-mai by hand. Didn't realize you had beat me to it. Dennis Tyrell has been a friend of mine for about a year now. I've heard him talk about you. This is my first time watching you work. You and Dennis both make better videos than me. Good job on your cu-mai, I think it'll look good. My copper pipe had thinner wall thickness and was very old. Forge on my by hand brother. 🗡👍
Thank you!
You could even put it all in a container of some sort and melt it all together and it could be like some sort of canister or something that would be unique and never seen before like a one of a kind
Thats a super idea!
Fascinating. Never seen stuff like this before (knife making). Way cool.
I ground out the blade last night and it looks so sweet! I will post the video Sunday morning!
@@Aleeknives well I’m subscribed now so I can’t wait to see it!
Thanks man! I appreciate that!
This guy is underrated!
Thank you for that! It's very much appreciated
Dude love your stuff and really enjoy you teaching and reviewing. Very enjoyable and helpful. The Dagger is going to be sick. Happy New Year!
Thank you very much Daniel! I really appreciated that compliment! I just finished grinding and heat treating the dagger tonight! The video will post Sunday morning and it is sweeeet! See you there
Dude the suspense is killing me... seriously! I think it is going to be cool as heck, but I think making deeper etching in the steel will only be muy bueno-er!
BTW- your channel is awesome... keep ‘er goin’ fer sher!
I just finished the dagger blade last night and it is sitting in coffee now😁 video drops Sunday morning, I hope yo see you there! Cheers
That’s gonna be a badass dagger!!🔥⚒💪🏻
Thanks man!
I enjoyed the video. I don't forge. Educational and different from what Tyrell Knife Works did. Cannot wait to see what Eric does. I follow all three of you. 👍👍👍👍💯 Blessings
That awesome! I follow those guys also! Thanks for watching!
Cool man! Using the material characteristics in your favor. I have some ideas of my own percolating that involve copper and steel...
Lots of artistic freedom left to explore here! Thanks for stopping by man!
@@Aleeknives you bet!
Awesome idea man! Going to have to try this myself
I would encourage you to but please be safe! The copper melts easily and when you hit it with a hammer it could squirt.
Looking forward to the next Video. 🤘
I'm going to get to grinding tonight so we'll see!
Digging that billet, Airin! Should look awesome on a steep-bevelled blade like a dagger! 🗡
Well done 👍🏻 for thinking up an alternative method, too. This is why your channel is on the up 🚀.
That and your improving editing skills 👌🏻
(you have snow, too! So far we’re snow-free, but if it does come, my 4x4 Land Rover should be useful!)
Boom! 🇬🇧🤜🏻⚡️🤛🏻🇺🇸
We actually had a good amount of snow, have been sledding for a couple days now
@@Aleeknives
Loved sledding! 🛷
Keeping my eyes 👀 peeled 🗡 , buddy 👍🏻
Thank you!
Out of all the knife makers I use as inspiration, you by far is one of my favorite, how can I send you pictures of what you helped me make
That is so cool Chris! I would love to see your stuff! Airinlee@swbell.net
Love it
Thank you!
I really think you got a good idea going on here.
We will soon see! I have been intrigued by Cu mai for some time. I follow a guy on Instagram called Dakota Wilson who uses cu mai a lot! His work is fantastic!
I was wondering when someone would simply get things up to temp and melt the copper to form a copper 'braze'. Im not convinced you even need to hit it.
You may need to grind more of an intentional pattern to get the desired affect though. Match up the highs with the lows.
be very interesting to see what you get. it certainly seems to have stuck!
Actually what you stated was exactly what I'm trying to do in this video the only reason I tapped it with the hammer was just to expel any air gaps that might be between the layers
Spoiler, I ground and heat treated the blade and finished it last night. The next video drops tomorrow morning. It worked!
@@Aleeknivesif it works like other forms of brazing, capillary action should allow the copper to flow into every nook and cranny.
if i get a chance in the near future ill try simply stacking some pieces and not even welding them together first. Just heat it up and let the braze do its job. may need some flux though.
I was afraid all the copper would just run out if I didn't weld it. Kinda of thinking I would have a big puddle of copper in my forge.
@@Aleeknives (first video of yours I've seen, youtube suggested lol) You're the first youtuber (or any smith I've met in real life) I've seen that has figured out that this is just brazing (and how I've always done it) lol everyone struggles with 'oh no it's too hot', just let it cool and it's stuck, then warm it up and beat the hell out of it :P
Hmm, well I guess its my turn to go ahead and make a "The Rivers Experience" version of a Cu Mai.
I am pretty sure I'm going to wish that I had cut my grooves in my layers deeper to give me more of a striking pattern I'll know tonight when I start cutting a knife blank out of it!
I think it would be really cool to do some sort of collaboration with you and your channel this year!
@@Aleeknives
Definitely! I’ll be keen to see that! 👊🏻
Yup, you're up, Erick!
Yup, I agree! We definitely need to do a collab
Cant wait to see how it turns out!
I did the rough grind and heat treat last night! Wow! Video drops Sunday morning! See you there
@@Aleeknives nice, will go well with my coffee!
Nice, I will have one with you!
7:54 I know it's just for meme but to all the others that are not sure, your screen is not capable of producing light dangerous enough to even partially damage your sight
Totalky true! It wasn't even done as a meme though I just wanted it to be a little more enjoyable to watch for you guys. I was laying in bed in a dark room when I was watching someone weld and got the idea to shroud the arch
Thanks for the mention! Yeah, I was thinking that copper was pretty thick but your idea of doing a dagger is a good one. Curious what that grinding is going to do to the pattern and if it will be active enough. We'll see! Nice job though, looks solid!
I think I'm going to find I wished that I would have ground deeper grooves
@@Aleeknives I think drawing out the billet a bit on the anvil would help too. Spencer at heavy forge just did a 15 layer billet with a bunch of thin copper layers. I think thinner and more layers is a good idea.
Yes I agree, I watched several people hit the billet with a hammer and shot molten copper all over themselves! Ouch
@@Aleeknives yup, you better have good welds! 😬
and a good apron!
Wow you’re already doing it? I saw your comment on tyrels vid. I’m planning on doing it at some point.
I'm going to grind it tonight so we'll see how it works
I honestly don't think you can get 'arc-eye' from a video of welding 😉
Me neither I think it is more pleasant to watch for people laying in the dark watching the phone. Sometimes bright light can detract from the video
watched all 3 videos on this knife... great, loved them n the knife... i want it but im sure i cant afford it sooo...well done.. learned a lot...1 question.. what was the pen made of, ive been thinking about using delron plastic rod to get some new color ...??? thanks....
Thank you! This pin was g10
Really enjoy your videos. What thickness of steel and copper did you use? Been thinking about trying this and don't want to buy steel I might not use. Thanks and keep up the great work!!
This is the part of experimenting that is the fun! Run your core material thinner because it doesn't really move or stretch much. The outer layers, if you want hammer marks run 1/16th if you want to finish it smooth run 3/32nd
@@Aleeknives Wow...thanks for the reply..I was still watching the video!!
😂🤣😁
Dude a dagger is going to look insane! Flat or hollow?!
Shoot, I don't know now man!
Does he really think that a weld arc thru a screen can hurt our eyes good video tho
Blocking out the weld arc is a nice touch for people that are watching the video in a dark room. I under no circumstance believe it will harm you to look at it on camera but also don't feel the need to flash anyone's eyesight at the same time.
So this is the third Cu Mai i've seen (with Tyrell's and Heavy Forge's being the other 2). Very cool! My question is: with the copper running all the way through it, does that weaken the mechanical strength of the meat of the blade? In other words, could it be more prone to bend/warp? Or are the outer and inner layers strong enough to keep it rigid?
The inner layer alone should be able to withstand the abuse! By adding the outer layers of 15n20 that will also be heat treated the knife will solid. Honestly the only reason to add a copper layer is for looks it doesn't improve function. Similar to pattern welded steel, it doesn't make a better cutting instrument but it looks darn cool! I made the core from 1084 so it will hold a super edge!
Thanks for blocking the weld arc. It always worries me. Ive had the experience once and do not wish to repeat it...
You are welcome! Cheers
what was the thickness of the copper you used?
Good question, I used that water pipe in the picture. I will say ot was to thick really, and would have been happier with a thinner layer
I watched your presentation on this particular art for a reason
I am not interested in the lamenat of copper to steal but copper to copper and is were this is going to take me if you can help me opon my quest I will appreciate it or if you have any knowledge to share
I will also be looking for sources of knowledge to learn more of the Damascus arts
Thank you in advance
pS
For the knowledge I have gained so far I feal you may have more
For me the future is bright and you my friend may have the tools I am looking for
Time to say thank you a press the bell
What thickness of copper do you use for this? 1/16th? 1/8th?
Good question, I used a water pipe that I flattened out
@@Aleeknives Oh that's a good source for copper!
I thought so, basically free if you keep your eyes open
Please do not under any circumstances attempt to combine forge welding of steel with amalgamation, that would be very very bad.
Not sure I understand. Amalgomate= to combine or unite into one structure.
I see now! I had an understanding of the word amalgamate, however, I did not know that amalgamation in metallurgy had a different meaning. Thank you for the lesson in English.
I wouldn't normally be so be such a grammar Nazi, but given that the topic is specifically metallurgical bonding, it seemed relevant.
I am constantly learning and hopefully moving in the right direction! You will never learn anything if the people around you don't take the time to help and teach, so thank you!
aint it just brazing?
Pretty much so!
How do you stamp your logo into your products?
I cold stamp my logo, I use to hot stamp but I found out that it introduces slight warps
There's absolutely no reason that the copper needs to melt...look up diffusion bonding. To make this work like any other plain damascus you only need to go up to 85% of the actual melting temp of the metal that melts first in the stack. Copper melts at about 1950°f........if you put this cu mai stack in the forge and heat it to 1650° you can hammer or press forge that copper to the steel. I have done this a few times a few years back. What doesnt work with cu - mai is extreme distortion (feather pattern , torsion pattern) because the copper is way softer than the steel...it would basically shear off under stress. If you can make this to work ...next step up is making a piece of mokuti (titanium damascus ) and forge weld that to a steel core ;) ;) Here's an example scontent.fbru1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131896735_3546496745432390_7905802974837159450_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=3&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=PP9hnk56rSsAX_XWIZl&_nc_ht=scontent.fbru1-1.fna&oh=651250edb66555905ccc9ebafe56a495&oe=60524737 You can also forge the cu mai thinner...just keep it well below the meltpoint of the copper. Only flatten the billet in small increments and heat it back up. If you overdo the flattening cycle the copper workhardens and could let go of the steel. This was one i made a few years back.....its a copper,nickel to steel cu-mai blade with copper , nickel to mild steel bolsters and endcap. scontent.fbru1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/60473624_2224069774341767_8239102812651257856_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=3&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=M4V88yWzjN4AX8WVTc8&_nc_ht=scontent.fbru1-1.fna&oh=9ca1a195f8ea4ab98f995e7ac7673065&oe=605018CB
Oh my that titanium Damascus cladded steel is insane! Thank you for sharing your knowledge here with us! I will do some more research on that titanium.!
@@Aleeknives You will not find much if any info at all on bonding/forging mokuti to steel......since not to much have done this with succes. First try to make mokuti (you will find info on that part)....the mokuti , thats really the easyest part.(think oxigen free environnement) . Than forge that mokuti on steel you again need a perfect oxigen free and clean metal stack and you need an adittional layer of a certain metal between the steel and mokuti to make this work. I wont tell you what that metal is right now since it would take the fun in experimenting away. Another tip. For the core use a carbon steel type that once hardened and tempered can stand about 900-950° without losing hardness (it does exists). You need that kind of steel because the coloring of the mokuti is done hot by a small propane flame. Its not cheap this experimenting though. :)
You are probably one of the coolest people that have ever commented on the channel! I don't even know you but your ideas and knowledge of said ideas is intriguing! Thank you for your input!
@@Aleeknives Thanks. What good is knowledge if no one shares it ?? I enjoy looking at knifebuilding video's and channels like yours. Its a way to see how other knifemakers make their creations...and what they do different /better. Since you are not constantly fishing/begging for money like alot of other makers lately do... the least i can do is share the little i know...maybe it helps other makers? This cu-mai(go mai) is actually not new...many years back i saw a few video's from a Russian selling cu-mai blades...and later i stumbled upon William Henry pocketknives.....just wanted to have a go at that. I am far from making pocketknives like the beautifull William Henry ones....i probably never will get at that high level. But trying to get there is part of the fun in making knives (and other things). Your way of doing this cu -mai(or go mai) is very different than what others are doing....that in itself is interesting to see. ( sorry for the bad English writing....Dutch is my motherlanguage as a citizen from Belgium)
Thank you for noticing that I am here on TH-cam truly to pass on my knowledge to newer makers! I may not know a lot, I might not be a master, in fact I consider myself a novice even after doing this for coming up on 10 years but I can't help but try to get more people into the hobby or profession. I own and operate a telephone company here in the 🇺🇸 and I did not got to college! I have a strong message to share with kids out there, that college isn't for everyone and just because you didn't go or weren't successful that doesn't mean squat in the real world and you can create a wonderful life on your own if you put your mind to it using your passion about something! Thanks again for sharing! My email is airinlee@swbell.net if you want to start a thread and send some pictures! I would love that!
Cu Mai…. Isn’t that just forge brazing? I’m new to all of this, not intending to sound like a wise guy.
Pretty much
You do know that a welding arc through a TV screen or computer monitor or telephone screen is not bright enough to hurt anybody’s eyes I’m just saying not trying to be smart Alec or anything because I see people do that all the time and your screen will never be as intense as the Live ark will
That's not actually why I do it. Many people watch these videos on their phones sitting in dark rooms and the weld flare kills your night vision and makes it hard to watch the content.
Cheers