Absolutely the same compressor as Thor, Moab, Stop N Go, and all the others. Rebadged and marked up. A micro quickfist would be perfect to hold that hose on the molle panel and won’t vibrate. Nice install.
I hadn't thought about a micro quickfist. That would be pretty slick. He already had the flashlight holder and it was kind of an afterthought so we ran with it. The quickfist is a great idea.
Pretty slick mount you guys came up with. I was really impressed and have been recommending them to a lot of people. My only feedback would be to include 120 amp Anderson connectors for the wiring kit. I assume you aren't having any issues with the 50 amp, but it still makes me nervous.
I’m getting ready to mount my (similar) compressor in the rear of my JLU and run the wires in a similar fashion. I see you used an inline fuse that came with the kit. I’m trying to figure out if I should use a relay or a fuse on the positive cable. Thoughts?
I'd use the fuse regardless. If you only wanted the compressor to run when the vehicle was on, you could also add a relay that was triggered by an ignition hot source or a switch in the cab. I would wire it batt>fuse>relay>compressor.
Great install. I guess the only question I have is why not just run the 12V+ cable to the battery, and the ground back at the rear, like a seat belt bolt, or frame bolt somewhere in the rear. That would save running the two big cables up through all the confined spaces. It would be no different than installing a big audio amp in the back, keeping your grounding side nice and short; saves time, money, and frustration ;)
You certainly could do it that way. After chasing enough bad grounds over the years, I am not a fan of chassis grounds, especially for high amp draw items.
It is definitely smaller than the SB175 connector. Plus, the terminals are suited for 2-6awg conductor. However, the 175A connector will do the job, too!
So the install video is great, ss 6 ga wire sufficient for the length of wire from the battery to the compressor? Have you done a full air up test to see how hot the wires get?
Yes we did. I was a bit skeptical as well but was pleasantly surprised. No issues with heat taking his 37s from 10psi to 28psi. I would replace the 50 amp Anderson Connector with 120 or 170 though. I have seen some others report issues with the 50 amp. The compressor does pull 90 amps running.
did you purchase anderson brand connectors or a different brand? Are the Anderson ones worth the extra money? Looking to do your compressor modification, air hoses and wiring process - should I go with the 120 amp connectors?
The Andersons were Amazon specials. They seem to work just fine. 120 amp are perfect if you are just wiring for a compressor. The 175 amp allow you to run heavier wire to use for plug in jumper cables if that is in your future plans. Hope that makes sense.
Why? It wouldn’t get in the way of a soft top. You just reinstall with the hardtop off. Fit with hard top, sort top or no top. Just remount with the hard top bolts.
![Thors Lightning OFF-ROAD TEST: Rapid 4 Tire System & Total Control Compressor [Colorado Adventure] 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0p1zJGLs76s/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely the same compressor as Thor, Moab, Stop N Go, and all the others. Rebadged and marked up. A micro quickfist would be perfect to hold that hose on the molle panel and won’t vibrate. Nice install.
I hadn't thought about a micro quickfist. That would be pretty slick. He already had the flashlight holder and it was kind of an afterthought so we ran with it. The quickfist is a great idea.
That's a great looking compressor mount :)
Pretty slick mount you guys came up with. I was really impressed and have been recommending them to a lot of people. My only feedback would be to include 120 amp Anderson connectors for the wiring kit. I assume you aren't having any issues with the 50 amp, but it still makes me nervous.
I’m getting ready to mount my (similar) compressor in the rear of my JLU and run the wires in a similar fashion. I see you used an inline fuse that came with the kit. I’m trying to figure out if I should use a relay or a fuse on the positive cable. Thoughts?
I'd use the fuse regardless. If you only wanted the compressor to run when the vehicle was on, you could also add a relay that was triggered by an ignition hot source or a switch in the cab. I would wire it batt>fuse>relay>compressor.
Great install. I guess the only question I have is why not just run the 12V+ cable to the battery, and the ground back at the rear, like a seat belt bolt, or frame bolt somewhere in the rear. That would save running the two big cables up through all the confined spaces.
It would be no different than installing a big audio amp in the back, keeping your grounding side nice and short; saves time, money, and frustration ;)
You certainly could do it that way. After chasing enough bad grounds over the years, I am not a fan of chassis grounds, especially for high amp draw items.
FYI, Anderson makes an SB120, which is a 120amp connector
Interesting. I thought the housing was the same size on those though. I'll have to take a deeper dive on them. Thanks.
It is definitely smaller than the SB175 connector. Plus, the terminals are suited for 2-6awg conductor. However, the 175A connector will do the job, too!
Anyone figure out what they used for the models that allow the user to select the PSI?
So the install video is great, ss 6 ga wire sufficient for the length of wire from the battery to the compressor? Have you done a full air up test to see how hot the wires get?
Yes we did. I was a bit skeptical as well but was pleasantly surprised. No issues with heat taking his 37s from 10psi to 28psi. I would replace the 50 amp Anderson Connector with 120 or 170 though. I have seen some others report issues with the 50 amp. The compressor does pull 90 amps running.
did you purchase anderson brand connectors or a different brand? Are the Anderson ones worth the extra money? Looking to do your compressor modification, air hoses and wiring process - should I go with the 120 amp connectors?
The Andersons were Amazon specials. They seem to work just fine. 120 amp are perfect if you are just wiring for a compressor. The 175 amp allow you to run heavier wire to use for plug in jumper cables if that is in your future plans. Hope that makes sense.
Works great so long as you never intend to use a soft top.
They'd still have to unbolt it to steal it. If they are that prepared, hard top wouldn't stop them either.
Why? It wouldn’t get in the way of a soft top. You just reinstall with the hardtop off. Fit with hard top, sort top or no top. Just remount with the hard top bolts.