This is a fantastic, through, very informative video... I love that you focused on the small detail elements...like the synchro rocking slightly...but NOT turning. You took a mysterious job (to me) and made it look easy. Thx
I have a 92 non world class that I need to change over from 14 spline to 28 spline so is the wavy washer thing an absolutely necessary part for putting a world class syncro into a non?
Add a small amount of bearing grease when assembling. The transmission fluid will circulate and lubricate that area during normal operation. I use DEX/MERC ATF.
This is a great video! I have a question. I am installing a new Jeep NWC 10 spline shaft into a NWC T5 to bolt up to a SBC. In this video with the WC T5 there is a "special washer" that butts up to the 15 roller bearings inside the input shaft. When I pulled the old input shaft out of my NWC T5 there was no "special washer". Is there supposed to be a washer in the NWC? I open the trans and it didn't fall inside and I am sure I didn't drop it in the shop. If it does require one, are you aware of a part number. I have searched some exploded diagrams and do not see the washer represented
Thanks for the kind words. No special washer is needed. Apparently the NWC T5s didn’t use or need them. I am currently driving a NWC S10 T5 with Jeep shaft and no special washer. No issues whatsoever.
@@Lugnutz65 This is awesome news! I was tearing the shop apart thinking I must have dropped it when I pulled it out. I even had the trans leaning forward like you warned. I am clear to start assembling! I am building a Hi-Boy 31 Roadster. Your video was huge to help me swap the 14 spline out. Thanks for the quick turn on this. You're doing great stuff!
@@WhiteOakRestoration A 1931 roadster. That’s a coincidence. I’m building a 1934 Chevy Master 5 window coupe. Here’s the link to my website build page. The website also has a T5 rebuild page too with step by step pics. lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/1934-chevy-coupe-build-page
@@Lugnutz65 That is a coincidence. That 34 looks cool. Thanks for pointing out your step by step for the T5 but I have spent a lot of time on that site and it has been super helpful. Especially the measuring to shorten the shaft and tube. I'll be sweating that but it will be fine.
@@MrTaDodge Not a stupid question at all. The Jeep shaft solves 2 major issues. 1. The original S10 T5 14 spline input shaft is too long and splines are not cut long enough along the shaft to use with a traditional SBC bell. Jeep shaft solves that. 2. The S10 T5 input shaft has 14 splines but the S10 clutch disc has a smaller surface area than what is desired for a SBC. You can buy a NEW 14 spline clutch disc with a larger diameter (Astro van or another special size sold by Summit Racing) but the cost is the same or more than a new 10 spline clutch disc which you might already have. The Jeep shaft swap MIGHT let you re-use the clutch disc you already have, thus saving some money right away.
Timken Set 5 LM48548 - LM48510 is on the box. Any local parts store can get you an S10 T5 input shaft bearing set. Ask for 1983-1993 Chevy S10 manual tranny input shaft bearing.
The pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft will prevent side to side wobble once the transmission is installed. So it will not wobble at all once in the vehicle.
Not sure I understand the question “eraser”. The bearing race does not lock into place but the bearing spins on the race freely. (Just guessing that is your question. )
This is a fantastic, through, very informative video... I love that you focused on the small detail elements...like the synchro rocking slightly...but NOT turning. You took a mysterious job (to me) and made it look easy. Thx
You are very welcome. Thanks for commenting.
I have a 92 non world class that I need to change over from 14 spline to 28 spline so is the wavy washer thing an absolutely necessary part for putting a world class syncro into a non?
Wavy washer is not essential if you use a brass synchro.
Hello where did you find that special washer for the output shaft to hold the bearing in place
The special washer is found on the world class units. If your non world class T5 transmission does not have one, then you don’t need it.
@@Lugnutz65 It suppose to have one just like your video
@@DavidGarrett-ro7bj it only needs a special washer if it is a world-class transmission.
Do you recommend greasing the shift pivot under the plate. And what grease would you recommend if you do.
Add a small amount of bearing grease when assembling. The transmission fluid will circulate and lubricate that area during normal operation. I use DEX/MERC ATF.
This is a great video! I have a question. I am installing a new Jeep NWC 10 spline shaft into a NWC T5 to bolt up to a SBC. In this video with the WC T5 there is a "special washer" that butts up to the 15 roller bearings inside the input shaft. When I pulled the old input shaft out of my NWC T5 there was no "special washer". Is there supposed to be a washer in the NWC? I open the trans and it didn't fall inside and I am sure I didn't drop it in the shop. If it does require one, are you aware of a part number. I have searched some exploded diagrams and do not see the washer represented
Thanks for the kind words. No special washer is needed. Apparently the NWC T5s didn’t use or need them. I am currently driving a NWC S10 T5 with Jeep shaft and no special washer. No issues whatsoever.
@@Lugnutz65 This is awesome news! I was tearing the shop apart thinking I must have dropped it when I pulled it out. I even had the trans leaning forward like you warned. I am clear to start assembling! I am building a Hi-Boy 31 Roadster. Your video was huge to help me swap the 14 spline out. Thanks for the quick turn on this. You're doing great stuff!
@@WhiteOakRestoration A 1931 roadster. That’s a coincidence. I’m building a 1934 Chevy Master 5 window coupe. Here’s the link to my website build page. The website also has a T5 rebuild page too with step by step pics. lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/1934-chevy-coupe-build-page
@@Lugnutz65 That is a coincidence. That 34 looks cool. Thanks for pointing out your step by step for the T5 but I have spent a lot of time on that site and it has been super helpful. Especially the measuring to shorten the shaft and tube. I'll be sweating that but it will be fine.
@@WhiteOakRestoration
You can contact me anytime on that website. I try to reply promptly. Is your 31 a Ford?
are the bronze synchronizer rings the same as those of the t177?
I really don’t know. Contact Allstategear. They sell the synchro rings.
Possibly stupid question here. Why can't you use the stock S 10 clutch between the sbc flywheel and pressure plate.
@@MrTaDodge
Not a stupid question at all. The Jeep shaft solves 2 major issues.
1. The original S10 T5 14 spline input shaft is too long and splines are not cut long enough along the shaft to use with a traditional SBC bell. Jeep shaft solves that.
2. The S10 T5 input shaft has 14 splines but the S10 clutch disc has a smaller surface area than what is desired for a SBC. You can buy a NEW 14 spline clutch disc with a larger diameter (Astro van or another special size sold by Summit Racing) but the cost is the same or more than a new 10 spline clutch disc which you might already have. The Jeep shaft swap MIGHT let you re-use the clutch disc you already have, thus saving some money right away.
What’s the part number for the input shaft bearing and the brass syncro?
Timken Set 5 LM48548 - LM48510 is on the box. Any local parts store can get you an S10 T5 input shaft bearing set. Ask for 1983-1993 Chevy S10 manual tranny input shaft bearing.
@@Lugnutz65 thanks so much!
The timing of this video was so clutch! Prepping to do this for my 1950 Chevy 3100 with a Chevy 250 inline 6.
Thanks again
@@tarleton1988
My website has a lot of T5 tips for Chevy trucks and T5 transmissions. Google Lugnutz65.
Where do you get the syncro
Allstategear.com has them. Needs to have the small notch.
What’s the part number for the sycnhro
Contact Allstategear. They can help. www.allstategear.com
In the video you say "side to side wobble is ok", why is that?
The pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft will prevent side to side wobble once the transmission is installed. So it will not wobble at all once in the vehicle.
I watched your Jeep input shaft demo. On the retainer, does the eraser move around freely or does it have to be stationary?
Not sure I understand the question “eraser”. The bearing race does not lock into place but the bearing spins on the race freely. (Just guessing that is your question. )
What year Jeep shaft are you using?
Motive Gear part # 1351085008R. Supplies have been limited in the last several years but Summit Racing can usually get it.