I use my gerber eab lite for whittling. It's perfect, light, pretty comfortable, sharp, and cheap. Edit: I think a razor blade is the perfect shape and length for carving.
Lynn Doughty uses a box cutter and is a amazing carver ..so it can be used in the right hands ..But myself ..I cant use a utility knife to carve ..I hate it and too uncomfortable to use ..But thats just me I dont recommend for beginners .because their not a good knife to handle ..But to each their own ..Great video young man
Thanks! Definitely agree that it isn't the best option for beginners, and while I can carve with one it just doesn't compare to a regular carving knife.
Thank you for the video! Another good choice is the Stanley 10-049. Its a nice disposable blade, pocket friendly option. The blade (replacements are not cheap but you can re-sharpen) is a more carver friendly shape than the standard utility knife. But I have seen really nice carvings done with just a standard utility knife. Its really more about the skill of the carver than the knife he or she uses. And skill comes only with practice (and the help of books & our wonderful TH-cam teachers).
Did you know that non-segmented / solid blades are also available for snap-off knives? 9mm snap-off blades are too thin and may only be suitable for engraving small details but 18mm or 25mm snap-off knives with wheel lock can be better alternative to fixed utility knives with trapezoid blades when combined with non-segemented blades. Because the wheel lock allows you to lock the blades so tightly that the blade wont move and gives the similar feeling as a fixed utilitt knife you also don't need a screwdriver to change the blade or to adjust the lenght of the blade. Other than that OLFA CK1 and CK2 can also be an affordable alternative.
Oh man, completely forgot about the OFFA CK1 and 2 knives! And didn't realize that there are non-segmented blades for the snap off knives. I swear, y'all keep teaching me a bunch of cool things :)
I'm not a fan of utility knife for wood carving, but saw you loading this and wondered when you will buy some OCCT blades and make your own handles? Setting the blade can be as easy as drill a hole and epoxy. But splitting a 1" x 1- 1.25" chisel out a relief and glue or pin into place, then 'carve' the handle into a shape you like. I bet you have at least thought about doing this! If you have thought about making handles for Flexcut SK chisels, gouges and 'v' tools, it's pretty simple. I had the design in my head then someone posted 100 purple heart drawer pulls cheap, about 1.5x1.25" perfect for palm handles. drill a 3/8th's inch hole, cut back to abut 10-11mm (the size of the tang) and split a 3/8ths inch dowel and sand back. Glue the dowel in and it's an interchangeable handle.
Oh it's on the list to do :) The only thing holding me back at the moment is that I am trying to find several companies world wide that supply similar blades. I'm trying to make this as world friendly as possible as 50% of my audience is outside the US and I know they will benefit from this the most.
The only things I dont like about them is the skinny handles arent good for applying power to a cut and the blades are more prone to breaking when carving anything harder than balsa. It can be done, but take it slow and be safe.
Hello hello, I don't know where to put that question so I'll post it there. One of my carving knife began to rust. Which is strange because it's the only one started to rust. The other two knives are spotless. I ask this as a total beginner, should I discard the knife? Is this a common problem? and what can I do to avoid this in the future?
Oh ask any questions anywhere! I'll see them all the same :) Quick question for you really quick, are the knives the same brand and style? Most carving knives are made from high carbon steel, not stainless steel. While the carbon steel offers better edge retention, it is more prone to rusting. Things like moisture in the air and oils on your fingers can cause the steel to rust. This is relatively easy to fix and prevent. If you have caught the issue quick enough, you can litterally strop the rust off or use a very very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper (3000 to 6000 grit). I have also used my leather strop to remove small rust specs in the past if caught early enough. To prevent this from happening wipe the blades off after you are done using them and coat them with a very fine layer of oil (3-in-1 oil works). It also wouldn't hurt to store them in a dry place too. I should probably do a video on this :)
@Carving is Fun good to know! Yes, the knives are from the same brand. But are they the same style? (if by that you mean do they look the same then it's a no. It's a beginner kit from beavercraft) Wipe the knives, fine sandpaper and oil and keep 'em dry. Got it! I used the leather strop but couldn't manage to get everything out so I guess I didn't spot the problem early enough So the cause is probably a mix of carelessness and environment. (I live in an area quite humid after all) If you make a video about this, you certainly won't hear me complain hahaha! All in all, thank you very much for your answer :)
Yep, just quick maintenance and you should be fine. Since they are from Beavercraft they will have the same steel. Probably one was just used more than the others or had more air exposure.
Hi, loving the channel. Quick question, I'm a beginner carver and I can't decide between a Opinel no. 6 or a Case medium stockman in CV steel. Which one would you recommend?
Both good choices! But if I were to pick between the two, the case med stockman with cv steel. The case cv steel hardness is 57 HRC vs the opinel carbon steels 58 HRC but you also have several different blades to pick from when carving with the case.
Send me an email at brian@carvingisfun.com and I can send ya a document I wrote up that should help ya. How much work is needed to sharpen at this point will depend on how much work has already been done to the knife. Send me some pictures of the current status of the blade to the email above and we should be able to get the edge sharp.
I also strongly don't recomend using scalpel blades with medical handles. Very dangerous stuff. Also almost unsharpable. Any old used cheap victorinox is much, much better.
@@CarvingisFun was very tempting. At least for me. Some shapes are very nice. One time it broke into 3 very painful and bloody peaces. Without any reason other than using it with too much force.
My first carving set was an Xacto set it had v tools and gouges, I was 12 years old that was over 50 years ago. Have better tools now. Good video 👌
I had one of those tool kits! They got the job done for an affordable price.
@@CarvingisFun I still have the hole kit and use it once in awhile.
I use my gerber eab lite for whittling. It's perfect, light, pretty comfortable, sharp, and cheap.
Edit: I think a razor blade is the perfect shape and length for carving.
Lynn Doughty uses a box cutter and is a amazing carver ..so it can be used in the right hands ..But myself ..I cant use a utility knife to carve ..I hate it and too uncomfortable to use ..But thats just me I dont recommend for beginners .because their not a good knife to handle ..But to each their own ..Great video young man
Thanks!
Definitely agree that it isn't the best option for beginners, and while I can carve with one it just doesn't compare to a regular carving knife.
Nice channel and very thoughtful for us new carvers. Thank you.
Sean
You're welcome :)
Thank you for the video! Another good choice is the Stanley 10-049. Its a nice disposable blade, pocket friendly option.
The blade (replacements are not cheap but you can re-sharpen) is a more carver friendly shape than the standard utility knife. But I have seen really nice carvings done with just a standard utility knife. Its really more about the skill of the carver than the knife he or she uses. And skill comes only with practice (and the help of books & our wonderful TH-cam teachers).
I see a lot of people liking that Stanley blade!
Very true, carving results are primarily due to skill but the tools and tutorials help a little :)
Did you know that non-segmented / solid blades are also available for snap-off knives?
9mm snap-off blades are too thin and may only be suitable for engraving small details but 18mm or 25mm snap-off knives with wheel lock can be better alternative to fixed utility knives with trapezoid blades when combined with non-segemented blades.
Because the wheel lock allows you to lock the blades so tightly that the blade wont move and gives the similar feeling as a fixed utilitt knife you also don't need a screwdriver to change the blade or to adjust the lenght of the blade.
Other than that OLFA CK1 and CK2 can also be an affordable alternative.
Oh man, completely forgot about the OFFA CK1 and 2 knives! And didn't realize that there are non-segmented blades for the snap off knives. I swear, y'all keep teaching me a bunch of cool things :)
Like to see the Stanley 10-049 if you can it's 10 bucks in Amazon at times
I'm not a fan of utility knife for wood carving, but saw you loading this and wondered when you will buy some OCCT blades and make your own handles? Setting the blade can be as easy as drill a hole and epoxy. But splitting a 1" x 1- 1.25" chisel out a relief and glue or pin into place, then 'carve' the handle into a shape you like. I bet you have at least thought about doing this!
If you have thought about making handles for Flexcut SK chisels, gouges and 'v' tools, it's pretty simple. I had the design in my head then someone posted 100 purple heart drawer pulls cheap, about 1.5x1.25" perfect for palm handles. drill a 3/8th's inch hole, cut back to abut 10-11mm (the size of the tang) and split a 3/8ths inch dowel and sand back. Glue the dowel in and it's an interchangeable handle.
Oh it's on the list to do :)
The only thing holding me back at the moment is that I am trying to find several companies world wide that supply similar blades. I'm trying to make this as world friendly as possible as 50% of my audience is outside the US and I know they will benefit from this the most.
While using a box cutter works, most of my slips and cuts happened while using one
How about surgical knife? Many different blade styles and some are cheap ones..
also crafting knife..
The only things I dont like about them is the skinny handles arent good for applying power to a cut and the blades are more prone to breaking when carving anything harder than balsa.
It can be done, but take it slow and be safe.
When did you do the fox, have not seen video of that🤔
Upcoming video tutorial :)
Should be out next week.
@@CarvingisFun great, thanks👍
Hello hello, I don't know where to put that question so I'll post it there.
One of my carving knife began to rust. Which is strange because it's the only one started to rust. The other two knives are spotless.
I ask this as a total beginner, should I discard the knife? Is this a common problem? and what can I do to avoid this in the future?
Oh ask any questions anywhere!
I'll see them all the same :)
Quick question for you really quick, are the knives the same brand and style?
Most carving knives are made from high carbon steel, not stainless steel. While the carbon steel offers better edge retention, it is more prone to rusting. Things like moisture in the air and oils on your fingers can cause the steel to rust.
This is relatively easy to fix and prevent. If you have caught the issue quick enough, you can litterally strop the rust off or use a very very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper (3000 to 6000 grit). I have also used my leather strop to remove small rust specs in the past if caught early enough.
To prevent this from happening wipe the blades off after you are done using them and coat them with a very fine layer of oil (3-in-1 oil works). It also wouldn't hurt to store them in a dry place too.
I should probably do a video on this :)
@Carving is Fun good to know! Yes, the knives are from the same brand. But are they the same style? (if by that you mean do they look the same then it's a no. It's a beginner kit from beavercraft)
Wipe the knives, fine sandpaper and oil and keep 'em dry. Got it!
I used the leather strop but couldn't manage to get everything out so I guess I didn't spot the problem early enough
So the cause is probably a mix of carelessness and environment. (I live in an area quite humid after all)
If you make a video about this, you certainly won't hear me complain hahaha!
All in all, thank you very much for your answer :)
Yep, just quick maintenance and you should be fine. Since they are from Beavercraft they will have the same steel. Probably one was just used more than the others or had more air exposure.
I'm interested in knowing what you think about the Stanley 10-049.
I think it would be a good option to start with if you wanted something affordable yet portable that comes sharp out of the box.
Cool. I just ordered one. They are so cheap but they look so useful. I also ordered the Opinel no 6.
If the blade wobbles, it means you're not going along the wood grain. The wood you're subtracting should shave off like butter.
Hi, loving the channel. Quick question, I'm a beginner carver and I can't decide between a Opinel no. 6 or a Case medium stockman in CV steel. Which one would you recommend?
Both good choices!
But if I were to pick between the two, the case med stockman with cv steel. The case cv steel hardness is 57 HRC vs the opinel carbon steels 58 HRC but you also have several different blades to pick from when carving with the case.
@@CarvingisFun Damn, I thought I was set for the Case but my overthinking ass is now considering a victorinox tinker or recruit haha
Ha, still would stick with the case in that situation too :)
@@CarvingisFun then I'm set. Waiting for a new video!
Hoping to find some time tonight to make a quick and fun video for tomorrow :)
Do you know Morakniv
I have owned several Mora blades, great tools!
Could you help me I so confused why I can’t get my knife sharp I watched your video a lot and I can’t seem to get it could you help please
Sure!
Lets start off with what knife are you sharpening and what sharpening tools do you have?
I have all the supplies in the beavercraft set So stone,leather and sandpaper
Send me an email at brian@carvingisfun.com and I can send ya a document I wrote up that should help ya.
How much work is needed to sharpen at this point will depend on how much work has already been done to the knife. Send me some pictures of the current status of the blade to the email above and we should be able to get the edge sharp.
I also strongly don't recomend using scalpel blades with medical handles. Very dangerous stuff. Also almost unsharpable. Any old used cheap victorinox is much, much better.
Indeed, not in any way good for woodcarving
@@CarvingisFun was very tempting. At least for me. Some shapes are very nice. One time it broke into 3 very painful and bloody peaces. Without any reason other than using it with too much force.
ooch! ya, broken blades can result in a pretty messy outcome.