Being former Barber from the old days when we used Straight Razors for shaving we had implements as sharp as a Surgeons Scalpel. Use of our leather strap and honing stones were some of the first things we leaned to do in Barber School. You are in greater danger of cutting someone with a dull Razor then a Sharp one. Dull ones dig in. Sharp ones glide across. One way we detect nicks in our blade was wetting the back of our thumb nail and pulling the razor across it with only the weight of the blade. We also do it after honing and strapping to see if they are removed. If we notice the blade if still pulling as we drag we do more leather strapping until no pull. Then you are incredibly sharp. Some of this may be useful in sharpening woodcarving knifes as well.
i have a beavercraft knife, and i thought grinding it with my dremel was a good idea. this video helped fix the damage i did, it now actually cuts. thanks!
I built my strop from an old leather belt, so no new leather is bought. It’s great the sand paper does the job well or even better, without animal ingredients. 💚 Thank you for the great videos!
@@trap1055 I bought an old leather work belt at a yard sale. I cut sections of it and put the smooth side out on one side and the rough out on the other with a 1*2, cut to a few inches longer than the leather sections. After using it for a year or so, you have to reglue it, I glued it the first time with contact cement. The repairs I do with superglue. A fried asked me about nailing or stapling to make it hold longer but the chance of fowling my edge on the staples or nails is too much for me. So I stick to glue. I also can't tell a noticable difference between the smooth side and the rough side. Next time I'll probably stick to just the rough side out.
I've been sharpening my own knives for a long time. This gives me added insight I didn't know I needed. I've carved 2 spoons with just a mora knife and a coal to get my (bowl) of the spoon. I got a kit coming in just a few days. Can't wait to use your knowledge and put it to practice.
Excellent video. Step by step...as well the close up angles on how to hold your knives. What I didn't notice when you added the compound. I need to sharpen my flex cut knives....and want to make sure I do it right. Over all....job well done.
Thanks!! Are you looking for how to apply the stropping compound? If so, this short video quickly shows how I both remove old compound and apply fresh compound. th-cam.com/video/you_LtIR3Vc/w-d-xo.html
Great video Brian! I especially appreciated the close up horizontal vein with the leather strop and your instructions about tilting it up just a hair. Other videos don’t mention this and we beginners need that kind of detail. Also appreciated your instructions on when you do and don’t use a stone. Keep up the good work!
I'm glad you found the video helpful! It's this channels goal to provide as much information to new carvers as possible to help them better enjoy this wonderful hobby.
Excellent, informative video. I really learned something and I am subscribing even though I am not sure whether or not my carving tools get enough work to warrant it. But it's something I will need to look at again when I need to sharpen stuff again. Thank you.
I'm glad you found the video helpful! Regardless if you use your carving tools a lot, it is still important to know how to keep your tools sharp and ready to use.
I have plans for a complete starter guide video, but right now I have a video on 5 tips to whittle faster: th-cam.com/video/8Ak7k4j468Y/w-d-xo.html And 5 mistakes that beginners can make: th-cam.com/video/DWNV0lf9FAA/w-d-xo.html
@@DG-mv6zw I also appretiate a lot his tutorials. He could be doing a series of skillshare classes( or domestika or lynda, etc) featuring only some essential tips and making money with little work, yet we have the previledge of learning tons of detailed and perfectly well explained knowledge in here, regularly and for free. My gratitude for that is huge.
I'll keep em coming as long as I can! The goal of the channel is to bring in more people to the hobby, but I did at one point consider doing only paid corses. However I thought that making people pay for it would be counter productive and wouldn't really be beneficial
I never thought much of claims about strops but I bought some josco grey compound and just scribbled it all over a timber offcut (radiata pine). My knives were sharp but just a few strokes of stropping has increased the usefulness not just an increment but an order of magnitude. I'm working on a 5" figure of Sun Wukong in ash and I was happy with his cassock but spent last night carving in drapes and wrinkles because I can. I have switched to linseed oil on my bike chain and garden tools since it's always on hand and non toxic. Is it ok for carbon steel?
@@wtfbehindyou1892Dolphin meat? Who the hell would eat dolphin meat, when baby meat is free? Baby meat shallow fried in baby oil. So tender and so tasty.
I discovered your channel and I love it. I just subscribed. You’re so cheerful and explain things so effectively. I’m a brand new beginner. Can you tell me what you use in your strop. It looks so smooth and clean as compared to that green compound.
I'm glad you are finding the channel helpful!! As to the compound, I actuality use the green wax bars :) This video gives you an idea on how I remove and add new compound th-cam.com/video/you_LtIR3Vc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun Wow, thank you for replying so quickly!! I just saw how you apply the compound with the heat. Pretty neat! Many thanks from San Juan Puerto Rico!!
Atb mate...very new to carving...I found a few old large whetstones in a toolbox, is there anyway of telling if its water or oil I should use? If not would it damage the blade if I tried...maybe oil 1st ? Cheers. Lee.
Since the buffing compound is suspended in wax, a heat gun, hair blower, or light heat source will be enough to melt the wax and remove the compound. But for me, I don't often remove the compound but just add to it.
I got some cheap knives with a starter kit as I didn't want to spend too much if I didn't enjoy it. I am enjoying it and so bought a wet stone but I think my best bet is just to get a good knife... I'll wait to see if I win the give away first 🤣
Both will be equally as effective in the long run for stropping, but if you are new to the process applying to the rough side is easier to do than the smooth side.
How often do you need to sharpen tools like flexcut and beavercraft? I know to strop them every 30 minutes of use but actual sharpening is it needed monthly or yearly?
@@CarvingisFun thanks for the reply! Was hard to find an answer to this question. Love the channel. Recently started with a BeaverCraft starter set and has been a great hobby so far.
I've bought an opinel 6 knife since it's really cheap and I've seen it's also not too bad for a starter blade. out of the box I tried it on a piece of wood I had lying around (don't know what kind) and it was quite hard to whittle with. It doesn't cut my finger like i expect it to when i very slightly (and carefully, don't want to actually cut my finger...) run it across the edge. I have no leather strop, but I bought a green "paste for razor strop" which I haven't used before since I don't have a leather strop. I'll go out to buy a piece of leather at a crafts shop to try to do the honing. Is it possible to break the blade with the strop if I'm careful not to have a wide angle? It feels overwhelming to sharpen a blade when I've never done it and i don't want to break it either! sorry for the long winded question, thank you for your videos!
It would be unlikely that you damage the knife with just a leather strop. The stropping compound is a super fine abrasive and will only take off a very very very small amount of metal. It is basically best used once you have the blade at the sharpness level you want and to help keep it honed sharp. You can also use other materials for a strop, Ive seen people use cardboard, thick denim, and even cork board.
@@CarvingisFun thank you so much! I am impressed by your whittling. I am _amazed_ at how you communicate in your videos. Truly, you are a natural teacher.
can you make a video where you make a simple beginner buddha? I really want to learn but can't find any videos, thank you so much ive been binging your account to learn how to whittle :)
Thank you for this video. You demonstrate the slight lift when stropping perfectly. Can I ask, do you do that same lift with the stones or keep the blade flat? Many thanks
Personally, I only do the lift for leather strops as the primary focus for me at that time is the cutting edge. I primarily only use stones for reshaping the edge to the 12 to 17 degree angle I try and target. I still try and make a point with the stones but know that the edge isn't yet refined until I strop it.
If you just wanted to maintain the edge of the pocket knife to a useful edge, the dual sharpener will get the job done. If you're looking for whittling sharp, than a sharpening system will be ideal. Also, I dont have any UK links for ya.
I just use the strop to maintain the edge every 20 to 30 min. If it is a harder piece of wood or softer steel, every 10 to 20 min. Very rarely do I start my sharpening process over again, I only do thst of the blade is damaged.
@@CarvingisFun when you use the Strop every 20 min, do you only do 10 passes per side or do you use the technique of 10-9-8-7 .... 1? thanks again, you are really very kind
Yep, I have plans of completely redoing this video as I know I can do a better job. The compound goesnon before using thr strop. Once you get it on you dont have to apply more for several months to a year later. This video explains it better here at the 20:25 mark th-cam.com/video/cghNbdy0xtc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun thanks mate! really helpful. Keep on the banger Work. Im completely new to whittling and I really enjoying it so far. I'm hoping to learn much from your content!
Is there a reason for different sharpening techniques compared to sharpening kitchen knives with wet stones and honing rods? Or is it just tradition/different styles?
Good question! Some of the different techniques are determined by what angle the edge grind is on the knife, if there is a bevel, depending on the tools you are using, and by the preferred technique of the user. Whittiling and wood carving knives typically have a much narrower cutting edge angle between 12 degrees to 20 degrees. This may require the user to pay atention to how they hold the knives compared to that of a kitchen knife. You can use wet stones and honing rods 8f you want, but usually your higher quality whittling knives come shaped and sharpened to the point where all you need to do is maintain it with a leather strop and polishing compound. Sometimes there is a difference in steel quality and hardness between wood carving knives and traditional kitchen knives. Wood carving knives are typically high carbon steel with a higher rockwell hardness rating and kitchen knives are made of stainless steel with a lower rockwell hardness rating. The high carbon steel allows the wood carving knives to be more durable and maintain thaier sharp edge for longer, but at the risk of corrosion and rust if not properly cared for when compared to stainless steel.
Only when I damage the blade. This is rare for me and some of my knives haven't even seen a stone. Once I bring it to the level of just needing to hone it with a strop that's all I need to use to maintain the edge every 20-30 min of carving.
Can you use a 6000 grit whetstone instead of the sandpaper/leather with compound to further sharpen your knife? Like honing with a grit 6000 every 20-30 minutes, Love your videos btw
I'm sure you could, if that is what you already have at your disposal it will get the job done. It's just that with the leather strop there is no extra preparation to do unlike a whetstone. Strops are more convenient and will typically produce a better honed edge.
What kind of grind do the OCC come with? I like the modified scandi of the mora, flexcut, and beavercraft, because it is so easy to maintain. It looks like the OCC is some sort of flat grind.
Welcome to the channel! Ideally, you want to work your way up to 1000 grit to remove as much of the scratches and roughness added by the lower grit steps. My typical transition is 400, 800, 1000, and then the leather strop with green polishing compound. This allows for a smooth and consistent cutting edge that is easy to maintain with just a leather strop. If your knife has the proper steel hardness and is properly handled, you won't have to use the stone or sandpaper again but just strop every 15-30 min while carving to ensure a nice sharp tool.
Typically, the stone doesnt move around on me as the bottom side has enough grit to hold it in place. Some companies also sell holders to help hold it in place.
You can put wet rag under the stone to prevent it from moving. As for making you knife pointy again: you have to grind the corners where the blade snapped. Try to get a good belly shape, maybe make the point less acute to prevent snaps in the future. You can use coarse stone or file to do the job. Sharpen the knife afterwards
John, this may require some muscle memory training, but try not to lift the tip when sharpening. Also go slow and focus on how you are handling the knife while grinding.
Hey I just discovered your channel and I kinda like your content/videos and thought about to start whitening by myself I watched some videos of you showing how to begin and I understood nearly everything but I'm foreign so I didn't got everything and I got some questions... 1. If I buy a new carving knife and I just use it normally, do I need to sharp it ? or when do I know when to sharp it ? (If I buy a knife that was already sharpened) 2. How expensive is the wood you are buying? I heard you buy it on eBay or something
Not all carving knives come honed to the same sharpness. If it cant effortlessly and cleanly slice through a sheet of paper it isnt sharp enough. The wood I use is pretty cheap, I buy 110 blocks for $38 USD. I would check your local hardware stores and lumberyards for softer woods that would be easy to carve.
Hey I love your videos 😊 I got some questions...can I only use the 1000 grit sandpaper to maintain a sharp edge or do i NEED a stone and a leather strop? I don't want to buy animal products so I don't want to buy a leather strop 🙈. And if it's ok to only use 1000 grit sandpaper can I use a specific spray, paste or abrasive powder as honing compound instead of wax? Or do you only need to use honing compound when you are using a leather strop? Sorry for the many questions 🙈
Sure!! You dont need a leather strop at all, ridgid denim will do thr job or you can use 3000 to 6000 grit set/dry sandpaper to keep it honed. If you start with a quality knife that comes sharp, all you will need is the strop with stropping compound or 3000+ grit sandpaper to keep it honed sharp I prefer the wax bar honing compounds, but there are pastes, powders, and sprays available as well.
Do you know if those kitchen knife sharpeners where you just run the blade through the device work at all? I think my attempts to use the whetstone that came with my kit probably made things worse😅
You can use them, but they are usually at a different edge angle and rarely do any better than realigning the edge to be less ragged. I don't even use them for my kitchen knives lol.
Thanks your video I tired to sharp my knifes with machine sharper “$250” But i feel it is still not sharp enough Actually not smoothy …. Its sliceing papers but its scraching the wood I got some Factory sharped knife They are very smoothy I think i do something wrong Have you got any idea for solve my problem
Higher grit producesba smoother grind and then honing it on a leather strop gives amazing results. My typical rotation for a new knife the I want to shape and then sharpen is 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 2000 grit and then hone sharp with a leather strop using 3000 to 6000 grit polish. After the knife is dharp, I just maintain the edge with the strop evey 20 min while carving
How can I tell if my knife is too dull to be able to hone with a strop, and that I should take it to a stone? I have a flexcut which doesn't cut so easily and I'm having trouble getting it sharp
Great question!! The easiest way to tell is It wont easily slice through paper anymore. There is another method I use, but I need to make a video on it to explain to preventinjury. I will probably make it in the next few days here and have up for ya.
I'm brand new to whittling, and have a whetstone set that came with an angle guide clip thing that is far too big for my knives. I see you don't use these though. What advice would you give to a beginner to know you're polishing at the correct angle if you have no guide?
Most knives already have an edge angle on them that you can feel exists. If you place the blade on a flat surface and slowly rock it back and forth, you can literally feel where that edge naturally sits and this is the angle you want to maintain. As to sharpening for beginners without a guide, slow and deliberate movements are what you want to do. Don't push too hard, focus more on maintaining a consistent angle, and check your work every 3-5 passes. you will literally see where the steel is making contact with the stone unless you are stropping. Don't be afraid to make the edge your own and make modifications as well. just don't go to small of an angle or the steel will roll on itself.
I sharpen pretty much like you do. At home I have no problems honing the knife back to sharp. In the field camping my leather belt isn't the same as a loaded strop. Do you have a way to hone in the field?
I have been trying to figure out a good way myself, preferably something I can throw in my pocket or on my belt. A while ago, someone was making a neat portable strop but it appears they have stopped. I'll come up with something or find a good one eventually and feature it on the channel.
@@CarvingisFun I have seen folks put leather on back of a altoids tin and rolled up extra wet dry grits and some rubber bands to hold paper down. But I didn't like the banding. But a strop option might work, but I think you would lose compound from it rubbing about in a pack or pocket.
@@CarvingisFun I look forward to your ideas and see what you come up with. I too have had the idea bouncing for years and have tried a few ideas out but not practical yet. I wish you luck at your ideas.
I've heard others having the same issues and am planning on making a new video on this. What sharpening tools did you use? Maybe I can give specific guidance with each tool you have.
@@CarvingisFun I tried to look up what to get, got a 400/1000 whetstone, and a strop with the green sharpener block? Thank you for the reply :) Just for info, when I recieved the knife, it was blunt and didnt even come to a fine point, so I've managed to get the point using your video but just can't get it sharp if that makes sense?
Gotcha, if it came in blunt it sometimes takes more effort shaping the edge. Try this, focus on the 1000 grit side and only pull the knife with the edge trailing (no back and forth motion). Keep the edge you are grinding as consistent as possible and do both sides untill a burr starts forming (small,flimsy piece of metal on the knife edge, best to google "sharpening knife burr" and read the article from Lanskey) Once the bur is formed, move over to the strop and repeat the same drawing motion with the cutting edge trailing. This will eventually remove the burr and result in a sharp edge.
Forgive me if this is an obvious "don't do that", but if you haven't got a whetstone for sharpening, how bad is it to use a kitchen knife sharpener and then follow up with the strop?
The single sharpening rods that you typically see chefs use are a no go. They are designed to realign softer stainless steel knives. This may not be ideal for a carbon steel knife or a knife with a harder edge. Most kitchen knife sharpeners have a steep sharpening angle for the knife and may not be ideal. However, if you use it on a knife with a proper edge angle on it already and you just want to fix a minor chip or dull spot, it may be fine and has the added benefit to create a secondary bevel on the edge that could improve edge retention at a very slight cost of reducing how well the blade goes through the wood. But really, if your edge is already super sharp and you want to whittle with it, you just need to strop it every 15 to 30 min and you should be fine without ever taking it to a stone.
interesting, I do agree that sometimes the steel is a bit softer than some other brands but I have found them pretty easy to hone sharp. What are you using to sharpen and hone them?
If the blade is already sharp, I just hone it sharp with my leather strop with honing compound which is equivalent to a 3000+ grit stone. If you use a regular 600 grit or even a 1000 grit stone you may actually dull the knife instead of sharpening it I reccomend checking out this video at the 11:19 mark fo a full rundown th-cam.com/video/cghNbdy0xtc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun thanks for the reply! English isn't my main language, and maybe it isn't called a regular sharpener, but it's a thing where you have a fixed spit to put your knife into. And then just sweep the knife through it a couple times. Just no skill and for all your regular knives. Is it possible to use such a thing for your whittling knife? And when should I do it? Also every 30 mins? I don't have a leather strop or smth available rn. Btw I have a Beavercraft knife, so I think it already has a good edge, but just the maintenance of the knife, the honing Hope it's clear what I mean, otherwise I'll search a link to the product and comment it. So just say if I'm being unclear
Sounds like you have a set of sharpening rods. As long as they have a super fine grit and you can maintain a consistent edge on them you should be ok. And yes every 30 min
Yep, forgot to mention this. Was probably in the moment and subconsciously knew what I needed to do but forgot to mention it. To answer your question; I do bring my edge to the point of forming a slight burr, but ONLY near the end of SHAPING the cutting edge. This has zero merrit when honing the edge, which is what you will be doing 99% of the time. The point that I am actually looking for the formation of the burr is during the 1000+ grit grind ( so the sandpaper block in this videos case). I find it pointless to try and form a fine burr any earlier than this point A quality made wood carving and whittling knife will come to you with a properly grouned and honed edge from the beginning. If you need to profile your own edge (like you need to do on a SAK or or other pocket knives) then you will be using varying stones, slowly moving to finer and finer grits, to grind the bevel to the point of forming a burr and then hone it off.
the leather strop is just for honing to keep it sharp. If you want to not use leather strops, automotive wet/dry sandpaper with 2000 to 3000 grit glued to a flat surface will get the job done too.
I always say that there is no use honing a blade so that it shaves hair unless you need to shave with it .. a blade that shaves hair will not last a minute when carving or shaving wood !
Yeppers, but if you have ever edited a video at 2am you may also know that mistakes happen and sometimes you dont catch the mistake until it has been live for a week :)
I still have no clue what I’m doing… my dad gave my a knife set for my birthday, but last time I tried to sharpen them, I fucked up the 2 knifes I use the most… and idk how to fix that
For some reason I don't have audio in this video. My theory is the audio was set to mono and one of my speaker doesn't work ( always set to stereo folks)
Ya this was an error in my editing skills. Im sure I messed something up n didnt realize it as I only had one earbud in while editing so I can pay attention to the family at the same time. I remember when I first noticed I I thought youtube had removed all my audio!
@@CarvingisFun I had some when I first started carving but I left them out once and my dog got to them so I haven't worn them in a long while and been fine. Until now
Thanks a lot my left ear really enjoyed this video
Ha! Ya still dont know how that happened.
I only had my right earbud in and couldn't figure out why there was no sound until I saw your comment. 😂
Same
Same! Haha
Thank you for your comment, my left ear is deaf and I was very confused for a moment
Very good information. You have a simple and no nonsense approach. You also don't appear to be a hyper sharpening person. I like that.
Being former Barber from the old days when we used Straight Razors for shaving we had implements as sharp as a Surgeons Scalpel. Use of our leather strap and honing stones were some of the first things we leaned to do in Barber School. You are in greater danger of cutting someone with a dull Razor then a Sharp one. Dull ones dig in. Sharp ones glide across. One way we detect nicks in our blade was wetting the back of our thumb nail and pulling the razor across it with only the weight of the blade. We also do it after honing and strapping to see if they are removed. If we notice the blade if still pulling as we drag we do more leather strapping until no pull. Then you are incredibly sharp. Some of this may be useful in sharpening woodcarving knifes as well.
Yeppers!! Thats how I test my knives edges too!
i have a beavercraft knife, and i thought grinding it with my dremel was a good idea. this video helped fix the damage i did, it now actually cuts. thanks!
Hey, you dont know till you try! It does sound like a plausible idea at face value. Glag you were able to get it sharp again!
I am glag as well.
@@sirkyoj1 Ha! my typos are all over this channel and always makes me laugh when I see em :)
I just want to say thank you for putting in the effort on these videos. You do great work and empowered me to get into whittling.
I built my strop from an old leather belt, so no new leather is bought. It’s great the sand paper does the job well or even better, without animal ingredients. 💚
Thank you for the great videos!
Do you use the belt with skin on or do you peel the them off first?
@@trap1055 I bought an old leather work belt at a yard sale. I cut sections of it and put the smooth side out on one side and the rough out on the other with a 1*2, cut to a few inches longer than the leather sections. After using it for a year or so, you have to reglue it, I glued it the first time with contact cement. The repairs I do with superglue. A fried asked me about nailing or stapling to make it hold longer but the chance of fowling my edge on the staples or nails is too much for me. So I stick to glue. I also can't tell a noticable difference between the smooth side and the rough side. Next time I'll probably stick to just the rough side out.
I've been sharpening my own knives for a long time. This gives me added insight I didn't know I needed. I've carved 2 spoons with just a mora knife and a coal to get my (bowl) of the spoon. I got a kit coming in just a few days. Can't wait to use your knowledge and put it to practice.
Absolutely best sharpening video on internet! Fantastic camera angles. Very good job!
Thank you!
I am interested in starting this hobby and you channel is incredibly helpful! Thank you for doing this!
You are most welcome!!
@@CarvingisFun ty uwu
ty uwu
I just started actually whittling with something better than a Swiss Army knife and I absolutely love it! It's definitely a satisfying thing to do.
Excellent video. Step by step...as well the close up angles on how to hold your knives. What I didn't notice when you added the compound. I need to sharpen my flex cut knives....and want to make sure I do it right. Over all....job well done.
Thanks!!
Are you looking for how to apply the stropping compound?
If so, this short video quickly shows how I both remove old compound and apply fresh compound.
th-cam.com/video/you_LtIR3Vc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun Yes and thank you. I happen to come across your video...shortly after. Thank you...
Great video Brian! I especially appreciated the close up horizontal vein with the leather strop and your instructions about tilting it up just a hair. Other videos don’t mention this and we beginners need that kind of detail. Also appreciated your instructions on when you do and don’t use a stone. Keep up the good work!
I'm glad you found the video helpful! It's this channels goal to provide as much information to new carvers as possible to help them better enjoy this wonderful hobby.
Just now getting intot the art and your videos are super helpful man you explain everything in its simplest form possible!
Thank you so much! The different camera angles really helped. Can't wait to put my new knowledge to work!
Thank for the video. Helped me get my knife sharp to carve a fox.
Thanks for the video. Your channel has been very educational for me!
Thank you so much!!! My whittling knife is better than ever:D
That was a great video! Thanks very much…it answered a lot of questions!
nice videos dude. learning a lot about whittling knives here. keep the videos comin!
Thanks! I'm glad you are finding them useful!
very nice video it explanes exactly the way to strop your knife ..... compliments
Thanks!
Great video! learned a lot.
Thanks! I'm glad you found the video useful!
Excellent, informative video. I really learned something and I am subscribing even though I am not sure whether or not my carving tools get enough work to warrant it. But it's something I will need to look at again when I need to sharpen stuff again. Thank you.
I'm glad you found the video helpful! Regardless if you use your carving tools a lot, it is still important to know how to keep your tools sharp and ready to use.
Great video. I never had a lot of confidence in sharpening/honing or stropping for that matter. Guess I’ll have to learn.
What strop do you prefer
Personally, I have been enjoying my beavercraft strops as they are affordable and of good quality. Plus the green compound is super easy to apply.
@@CarvingisFun Thanks
Thank you! Getting back into carving and loving relearning with you.
Welcome back! You'll pick it back up right quick :)
Very easy to follow this video. I'm interested in learning to Whittle this summer. Do you have any videos explaining whittling techniques?
I have plans for a complete starter guide video, but right now I have a video on 5 tips to whittle faster: th-cam.com/video/8Ak7k4j468Y/w-d-xo.html
And 5 mistakes that beginners can make: th-cam.com/video/DWNV0lf9FAA/w-d-xo.html
amazing videos when i started whittling and I don't think I could've have gone so far without you!!!
Im glad you are finding the videos helpful!
Great, methodical and well explained tutorial. Wonderful job at demystifying the whole process. Always appreciated. Thanks so much. 👍
Glad you found the video helpful!
@@CarvingisFun More than you probably realize, Brian. Keep them coming, my friend. Thank you and greetings from Scotland 👍🏴
@@DG-mv6zw I also appretiate a lot his tutorials. He could be doing a series of skillshare classes( or domestika or lynda, etc) featuring only some essential tips and making money with little work, yet we have the previledge of learning tons of detailed and perfectly well explained knowledge in here, regularly and for free. My gratitude for that is huge.
I'll keep em coming as long as I can! The goal of the channel is to bring in more people to the hobby, but I did at one point consider doing only paid corses. However I thought that making people pay for it would be counter productive and wouldn't really be beneficial
loved this video now i know how to sharpen my knifes with out messing them up. thank you for this helpful video.
Im glad you found the video helpful!!
How do you use the green stuff? I’m new to whittling idk what it’s called
Its commonly called stropping compound or honing compound.
This video should answer all your questions th-cam.com/video/5Tt3K-kXhJc/w-d-xo.html
Dude, You answed many old questions of mine, Thank You!
Glad to help!
Very nice video with high quality view and precise explanations!
Thanks.
Thanks! I'm glad you found the video useful :)
Great video! one question on applying the polish. Do you put it on the strop, or the blade?
On the strop itself.
This video will help ya out on what to do th-cam.com/video/5Tt3K-kXhJc/w-d-xo.html
I never thought much of claims about strops but I bought some josco grey compound and just scribbled it all over a timber offcut (radiata pine). My knives were sharp but just a few strokes of stropping has increased the usefulness not just an increment but an order of magnitude. I'm working on a 5" figure of Sun Wukong in ash and I was happy with his cassock but spent last night carving in drapes and wrinkles because I can.
I have switched to linseed oil on my bike chain and garden tools since it's always on hand and non toxic. Is it ok for carbon steel?
I don't think you will have a problem with linseed oil on carbon steel knives, you should be fine.
@@CarvingisFun Thankyou.
An alternative to 3 in 1 oil is mineral oil. I use Johnson's Baby Oil - it's great and all my knives smell nice! 😂 True story.
Thanks Brian. 👍
Never thought about using baby oil!
@@CarvingisFun Well, you never heard a baby squeak, right?
I bet you eat dolphin meat! Using oil made from babies!! What's wrong with you? Jk good to know I will give it a shot myself.
@@wtfbehindyou1892 🤣👍
@@wtfbehindyou1892Dolphin meat? Who the hell would eat dolphin meat, when baby meat is free? Baby meat shallow fried in baby oil. So tender and so tasty.
I discovered your channel and I love it. I just subscribed. You’re so cheerful and explain things so effectively. I’m a brand new beginner. Can you tell me what you use in your strop. It looks so smooth and clean as compared to that green compound.
I'm glad you are finding the channel helpful!!
As to the compound, I actuality use the green wax bars :) This video gives you an idea on how I remove and add new compound th-cam.com/video/you_LtIR3Vc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun Wow, thank you for replying so quickly!! I just saw how you apply the compound with the heat. Pretty neat! Many thanks from San Juan Puerto Rico!!
Atb mate...very new to carving...I found a few old large whetstones in a toolbox, is there anyway of telling if its water or oil I should use? If not would it damage the blade if I tried...maybe oil 1st ? Cheers.
Lee.
The only way I can think of is if you put water on the stone and it absorbs in a few min then it may be a whetstone instead of an oil stone.
From how much application do I have to remove the paste from the leather and how do I do it?
Since the buffing compound is suspended in wax, a heat gun, hair blower, or light heat source will be enough to melt the wax and remove the compound. But for me, I don't often remove the compound but just add to it.
I got some cheap knives with a starter kit as I didn't want to spend too much if I didn't enjoy it. I am enjoying it and so bought a wet stone but I think my best bet is just to get a good knife... I'll wait to see if I win the give away first 🤣
This was immensely useful! Thank you!
Thank you for the great video. Which side of the leather would you recommend for the strop (smooth side or rough side).
Both will be equally as effective in the long run for stropping, but if you are new to the process applying to the rough side is easier to do than the smooth side.
Thankyou so much, very clear and educational
You're welcome! Glad you found the video helpful 😀
How often do you need to sharpen tools like flexcut and beavercraft? I know to strop them every 30 minutes of use but actual sharpening is it needed monthly or yearly?
As needed. My knives havent hit anything other than a strop unless I damage them.
@@CarvingisFun thanks for the reply! Was hard to find an answer to this question. Love the channel. Recently started with a BeaverCraft starter set and has been a great hobby so far.
I've bought an opinel 6 knife since it's really cheap and I've seen it's also not too bad for a starter blade. out of the box I tried it on a piece of wood I had lying around (don't know what kind) and it was quite hard to whittle with. It doesn't cut my finger like i expect it to when i very slightly (and carefully, don't want to actually cut my finger...) run it across the edge. I have no leather strop, but I bought a green "paste for razor strop" which I haven't used before since I don't have a leather strop. I'll go out to buy a piece of leather at a crafts shop to try to do the honing. Is it possible to break the blade with the strop if I'm careful not to have a wide angle? It feels overwhelming to sharpen a blade when I've never done it and i don't want to break it either!
sorry for the long winded question, thank you for your videos!
It would be unlikely that you damage the knife with just a leather strop. The stropping compound is a super fine abrasive and will only take off a very very very small amount of metal. It is basically best used once you have the blade at the sharpness level you want and to help keep it honed sharp.
You can also use other materials for a strop, Ive seen people use cardboard, thick denim, and even cork board.
is it recommended to use kitchen sharpening tool on a whittling knife, please and thank you
I like all your videos...Very helpful!
Thanks! I'm glad you find them useful!
Do you have any videos showing how to apply the honing compound, and how much to use?
This one shows me removing and then applying a fresh layer
th-cam.com/video/you_LtIR3Vc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun thank you so much! I am impressed by your whittling. I am _amazed_ at how you communicate in your videos. Truly, you are a natural teacher.
can you make a video where you make a simple beginner buddha? I really want to learn but can't find any videos, thank you so much ive been binging your account to learn how to whittle :)
Thank you for the idea! I'll add it to my list of project ideas.
thank you this was very helpful
You're welcome!
Thank you for this video. You demonstrate the slight lift when stropping perfectly.
Can I ask, do you do that same lift with the stones or keep the blade flat?
Many thanks
Personally, I only do the lift for leather strops as the primary focus for me at that time is the cutting edge.
I primarily only use stones for reshaping the edge to the 12 to 17 degree angle I try and target. I still try and make a point with the stones but know that the edge isn't yet refined until I strop it.
@@CarvingisFun thank you very much
will this work on swiss army knives? i am new to knife sharpening and idk what to buy
Yep, it most certainly will work on SAKs as well!
@@CarvingisFun ok thank you
@@CarvingisFundo you have any amazon uk links for what whetstone to buy? i am going to make a strop with some spare leather i have
i was also thinking about buying the victorinox portable dual knife sharpener
If you just wanted to maintain the edge of the pocket knife to a useful edge, the dual sharpener will get the job done. If you're looking for whittling sharp, than a sharpening system will be ideal.
Also, I dont have any UK links for ya.
Nice video, keep it simple
Very good video ..good job
Thanks Gene!
while working the wood after how long do you have to sharpen the blade? do you just use the Strop or do it all over again? Thanks!
I just use the strop to maintain the edge every 20 to 30 min. If it is a harder piece of wood or softer steel, every 10 to 20 min.
Very rarely do I start my sharpening process over again, I only do thst of the blade is damaged.
@@CarvingisFun when you use the Strop every 20 min, do you only do 10 passes per side or do you use the technique of 10-9-8-7 .... 1? thanks again, you are really very kind
I probably do 3 sets of 10 per side, alternating sides each set of 10. No need to get fancg with it.
Can you do a video about how to sharpen a hook knife/spoon knife?
I did a little video that should help ya here th-cam.com/video/ujMs6-8RMl4/w-d-xo.html
Do you need the wax on the strope when honing?
Yeppers! The wax bars is what holds the super fine abrasive powder that does the honing.
one question i have now is, where does the Polishing compound comes into play ?
At the leather strap part i don't see any of it.
Yep, I have plans of completely redoing this video as I know I can do a better job. The compound goesnon before using thr strop. Once you get it on you dont have to apply more for several months to a year later.
This video explains it better here at the 20:25 mark th-cam.com/video/cghNbdy0xtc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun thanks mate! really helpful. Keep on the banger Work. Im completely new to whittling and I really enjoying it so far. I'm hoping to learn much from your content!
Is there a reason for different sharpening techniques compared to sharpening kitchen knives with wet stones and honing rods? Or is it just tradition/different styles?
Good question! Some of the different techniques are determined by what angle the edge grind is on the knife, if there is a bevel, depending on the tools you are using, and by the preferred technique of the user.
Whittiling and wood carving knives typically have a much narrower cutting edge angle between 12 degrees to 20 degrees. This may require the user to pay atention to how they hold the knives compared to that of a kitchen knife.
You can use wet stones and honing rods 8f you want, but usually your higher quality whittling knives come shaped and sharpened to the point where all you need to do is maintain it with a leather strop and polishing compound.
Sometimes there is a difference in steel quality and hardness between wood carving knives and traditional kitchen knives. Wood carving knives are typically high carbon steel with a higher rockwell hardness rating and kitchen knives are made of stainless steel with a lower rockwell hardness rating.
The high carbon steel allows the wood carving knives to be more durable and maintain thaier sharp edge for longer, but at the risk of corrosion and rust if not properly cared for when compared to stainless steel.
@@CarvingisFun Thank you, this is a fantastic response! :)
You're welcome!
How often do you need to sharpen with a stone?
Only when I damage the blade. This is rare for me and some of my knives haven't even seen a stone. Once I bring it to the level of just needing to hone it with a strop that's all I need to use to maintain the edge every 20-30 min of carving.
Can you use a 6000 grit whetstone instead of the sandpaper/leather with compound to further sharpen your knife? Like honing with a grit 6000 every 20-30 minutes,
Love your videos btw
I'm sure you could, if that is what you already have at your disposal it will get the job done.
It's just that with the leather strop there is no extra preparation to do unlike a whetstone. Strops are more convenient and will typically produce a better honed edge.
What kind of grind do the OCC come with? I like the modified scandi of the mora, flexcut, and beavercraft, because it is so easy to maintain. It looks like the OCC is some sort of flat grind.
I believe it is a flat grind as well.
Thanks for sharing, I look forward to your other videos
You're welcome!
Very useful. Wish me luck! 😉
Much luck to you! If you have any questions feel free to ask :)
Hi. Just subscribed. Is 1000 grit as high as needed/necessary for whittling knives or could you stop at 400 or 600 then strop. Thanks.
Welcome to the channel!
Ideally, you want to work your way up to 1000 grit to remove as much of the scratches and roughness added by the lower grit steps. My typical transition is 400, 800, 1000, and then the leather strop with green polishing compound.
This allows for a smooth and consistent cutting edge that is easy to maintain with just a leather strop. If your knife has the proper steel hardness and is properly handled, you won't have to use the stone or sandpaper again but just strop every 15-30 min while carving to ensure a nice sharp tool.
@@CarvingisFun Great Reply! Thanks for that info.
What do I do if there are little tiny chips in the blade?
I usually take it to a 1000 grit stone and work my way up to 2000 grit and then a leather strop
What all do you use to keep the stone from moving around?
How do I put a point back on my pocketknife I got from a yard sale?
Typically, the stone doesnt move around on me as the bottom side has enough grit to hold it in place. Some companies also sell holders to help hold it in place.
You can put wet rag under the stone to prevent it from moving. As for making you knife pointy again: you have to grind the corners where the blade snapped. Try to get a good belly shape, maybe make the point less acute to prevent snaps in the future. You can use coarse stone or file to do the job. Sharpen the knife afterwards
This one is just rounded on the tip.
Which reminds me, how do you keep from rounding the tip when sharpening?
John, this may require some muscle memory training, but try not to lift the tip when sharpening. Also go slow and focus on how you are handling the knife while grinding.
Hey I just discovered your channel and I kinda like your content/videos and thought about to start whitening by myself I watched some videos of you showing how to begin and I understood nearly everything but I'm foreign so I didn't got everything and I got some questions...
1. If I buy a new carving knife and I just use it normally, do I need to sharp it ? or when do I know when to sharp it ? (If I buy a knife that was already sharpened)
2. How expensive is the wood you are buying? I heard you buy it on eBay or something
Not all carving knives come honed to the same sharpness. If it cant effortlessly and cleanly slice through a sheet of paper it isnt sharp enough.
The wood I use is pretty cheap, I buy 110 blocks for $38 USD. I would check your local hardware stores and lumberyards for softer woods that would be easy to carve.
@@CarvingisFun thank you :)
Is the strop compound supposed to feel a bit waxy when you load the strop?
Yeppers
The abrasive compound is litteraly suspended in a wax :)
OK I was just curious becase I feel some resistance when stropping the knife, almost like is sticky, I made sure not to put too much on
Is that normal when you first put it on? To feel a resistance when stropping? Thanks!
Just a little resistance at the beginning is normal until it smooths out a bit
Windex (or any similar product) makes a great cutting fluid on sandpaper. It will cut faster, reduce loading, and prolong the life of your sandpaper.
Nice tip! I'll have to try that out.
Thanks.
@Carving is Fun; Does it work?
I just dip my (wiped) blade in my coffee. lol
Hey I love your videos 😊 I got some questions...can I only use the 1000 grit sandpaper to maintain a sharp edge or do i NEED a stone and a leather strop? I don't want to buy animal products so I don't want to buy a leather strop 🙈.
And if it's ok to only use 1000 grit sandpaper can I use a specific spray, paste or abrasive powder as honing compound instead of wax? Or do you only need to use honing compound when you are using a leather strop?
Sorry for the many questions 🙈
Sure!! You dont need a leather strop at all, ridgid denim will do thr job or you can use 3000 to 6000 grit set/dry sandpaper to keep it honed.
If you start with a quality knife that comes sharp, all you will need is the strop with stropping compound or 3000+ grit sandpaper to keep it honed sharp
I prefer the wax bar honing compounds, but there are pastes, powders, and sprays available as well.
@@CarvingisFun Thank you for the quick and helpfull answer 😊
Do you know if those kitchen knife sharpeners where you just run the blade through the device work at all? I think my attempts to use the whetstone that came with my kit probably made things worse😅
You can use them, but they are usually at a different edge angle and rarely do any better than realigning the edge to be less ragged. I don't even use them for my kitchen knives lol.
@@CarvingisFun Hmm, ok - thank you!
Newspaper is surprisingly abrasive, I've used a Post It on occasion.
Never thought about using newspaper!
I've heard about the newspaper strop before, seen people do it with good results. I suppose a brown lunch bag might also be alright.
Thanks your video
I tired to sharp my knifes with machine sharper “$250”
But i feel it is still not sharp enough
Actually not smoothy ….
Its sliceing papers but its scraching the wood
I got some Factory sharped knife
They are very smoothy
I think i do something wrong
Have you got any idea for solve my problem
Higher grit producesba smoother grind and then honing it on a leather strop gives amazing results.
My typical rotation for a new knife the I want to shape and then sharpen is 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 2000 grit and then hone sharp with a leather strop using 3000 to 6000 grit polish.
After the knife is dharp, I just maintain the edge with the strop evey 20 min while carving
Did i miss the part where you use the green polishing compound
Nope, completely forgot to go over that in this video. I show ya how to do it here th-cam.com/video/8LQ4-dZo99g/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic.
How can I tell if my knife is too dull to be able to hone with a strop, and that I should take it to a stone? I have a flexcut which doesn't cut so easily and I'm having trouble getting it sharp
Great question!!
The easiest way to tell is It wont easily slice through paper anymore.
There is another method I use, but I need to make a video on it to explain to preventinjury. I will probably make it in the next few days here and have up for ya.
Thank You my love!
I'm brand new to whittling, and have a whetstone set that came with an angle guide clip thing that is far too big for my knives. I see you don't use these though. What advice would you give to a beginner to know you're polishing at the correct angle if you have no guide?
Most knives already have an edge angle on them that you can feel exists. If you place the blade on a flat surface and slowly rock it back and forth, you can literally feel where that edge naturally sits and this is the angle you want to maintain.
As to sharpening for beginners without a guide, slow and deliberate movements are what you want to do. Don't push too hard, focus more on maintaining a consistent angle, and check your work every 3-5 passes. you will literally see where the steel is making contact with the stone unless you are stropping.
Don't be afraid to make the edge your own and make modifications as well. just don't go to small of an angle or the steel will roll on itself.
You can also put some sharpie on the blade and see if it wears off while sharpening. If yes you're probably doing it right
I sharpen pretty much like you do. At home I have no problems honing the knife back to sharp. In the field camping my leather belt isn't the same as a loaded strop.
Do you have a way to hone in the field?
I have been trying to figure out a good way myself, preferably something I can throw in my pocket or on my belt.
A while ago, someone was making a neat portable strop but it appears they have stopped. I'll come up with something or find a good one eventually and feature it on the channel.
@@CarvingisFun I have seen folks put leather on back of a altoids tin and rolled up extra wet dry grits and some rubber bands to hold paper down. But I didn't like the banding. But a strop option might work, but I think you would lose compound from it rubbing about in a pack or pocket.
I have a few ideas floating around in my head that would prevent the compound from coming off, just have to see if they are practical first :)
@@CarvingisFun I look forward to your ideas and see what you come up with. I too have had the idea bouncing for years and have tried a few ideas out but not practical yet.
I wish you luck at your ideas.
@@CarvingisFun Something along the lines of this?
th-cam.com/video/hkuF1dljmjE/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I've followed your tutorial but I think I'm doing something wrong? I got my knife to a point but it just isn't sharp, what am I doing wrong?
I've heard others having the same issues and am planning on making a new video on this.
What sharpening tools did you use? Maybe I can give specific guidance with each tool you have.
@@CarvingisFun I tried to look up what to get, got a 400/1000 whetstone, and a strop with the green sharpener block? Thank you for the reply :)
Just for info, when I recieved the knife, it was blunt and didnt even come to a fine point, so I've managed to get the point using your video but just can't get it sharp if that makes sense?
Gotcha, if it came in blunt it sometimes takes more effort shaping the edge.
Try this, focus on the 1000 grit side and only pull the knife with the edge trailing (no back and forth motion). Keep the edge you are grinding as consistent as possible and do both sides untill a burr starts forming (small,flimsy piece of metal on the knife edge, best to google "sharpening knife burr" and read the article from Lanskey)
Once the bur is formed, move over to the strop and repeat the same drawing motion with the cutting edge trailing. This will eventually remove the burr and result in a sharp edge.
@@CarvingisFun Okay! I'll do my best and give it a go! Thank you so much! 😁
Hey what side of the strop do I use
Either is fine. The rough side is easier to apply compound to but the smooth side looks nicer. Ive noticed no difference in the end result
@@CarvingisFun thanks so much i just started my journey
Forgive me if this is an obvious "don't do that", but if you haven't got a whetstone for sharpening, how bad is it to use a kitchen knife sharpener and then follow up with the strop?
Are we talken bout the single sharpening stick or the ones where you put the blade in a grove and slide it back and forth a few times?
@@CarvingisFun the latter - but what are you thoughts on either option?
The single sharpening rods that you typically see chefs use are a no go. They are designed to realign softer stainless steel knives. This may not be ideal for a carbon steel knife or a knife with a harder edge.
Most kitchen knife sharpeners have a steep sharpening angle for the knife and may not be ideal. However, if you use it on a knife with a proper edge angle on it already and you just want to fix a minor chip or dull spot, it may be fine and has the added benefit to create a secondary bevel on the edge that could improve edge retention at a very slight cost of reducing how well the blade goes through the wood.
But really, if your edge is already super sharp and you want to whittle with it, you just need to strop it every 15 to 30 min and you should be fine without ever taking it to a stone.
ty
My right ear is jealous…
Why is it left ear only?
Bad editing on my end lol
I have Beaver Carving Knifes Problem the not hold a sharp edge and it is hard to sharpen
interesting, I do agree that sometimes the steel is a bit softer than some other brands but I have found them pretty easy to hone sharp. What are you using to sharpen and hone them?
Can you just use a knife sharpener? Like, I'm a beginner and don't know if I'll ruin the blade if I use a regular sharpener.
If the blade is already sharp, I just hone it sharp with my leather strop with honing compound which is equivalent to a 3000+ grit stone.
If you use a regular 600 grit or even a 1000 grit stone you may actually dull the knife instead of sharpening it
I reccomend checking out this video at the 11:19 mark fo a full rundown th-cam.com/video/cghNbdy0xtc/w-d-xo.html
@@CarvingisFun thanks for the reply!
English isn't my main language, and maybe it isn't called a regular sharpener, but it's a thing where you have a fixed spit to put your knife into. And then just sweep the knife through it a couple times. Just no skill and for all your regular knives. Is it possible to use such a thing for your whittling knife? And when should I do it? Also every 30 mins?
I don't have a leather strop or smth available rn. Btw I have a Beavercraft knife, so I think it already has a good edge, but just the maintenance of the knife, the honing
Hope it's clear what I mean, otherwise I'll search a link to the product and comment it. So just say if I'm being unclear
Sounds like you have a set of sharpening rods. As long as they have a super fine grit and you can maintain a consistent edge on them you should be ok. And yes every 30 min
@@CarvingisFun okay thank you!
Hi. You don't mention bringing your edges to a burr as most sharpening vids do. Do you not find this necessary.
Yep, forgot to mention this. Was probably in the moment and subconsciously knew what I needed to do but forgot to mention it.
To answer your question; I do bring my edge to the point of forming a slight burr, but ONLY near the end of SHAPING the cutting edge. This has zero merrit when honing the edge, which is what you will be doing 99% of the time.
The point that I am actually looking for the formation of the burr is during the 1000+ grit grind ( so the sandpaper block in this videos case). I find it pointless to try and form a fine burr any earlier than this point
A quality made wood carving and whittling knife will come to you with a properly grouned and honed edge from the beginning. If you need to profile your own edge (like you need to do on a SAK or or other pocket knives) then you will be using varying stones, slowly moving to finer and finer grits, to grind the bevel to the point of forming a burr and then hone it off.
@@CarvingisFun Thanks for the clarification.
👍 nice
Is there any way to sharpen the knives without using leather? o:
the leather strop is just for honing to keep it sharp. If you want to not use leather strops, automotive wet/dry sandpaper with 2000 to 3000 grit glued to a flat surface will get the job done too.
I’m a beginner and got imymee
I always say that there is no use honing a blade so that it shaves hair unless you need to shave with it .. a blade that shaves hair will not last a minute when carving or shaving wood !
Ever heard of stereo?
Yeppers, but if you have ever edited a video at 2am you may also know that mistakes happen and sometimes you dont catch the mistake until it has been live for a week :)
@@CarvingisFun banter mate. No offence.
No offence taken :) Still amused at myself for not catchen it during editing.
Left ear ASMR
Ya, i did a goof on this one
ty uwu
Do you have an Instagram account?
I do, just don't really use it.
I still have no clue what I’m doing… my dad gave my a knife set for my birthday, but last time I tried to sharpen them, I fucked up the 2 knifes I use the most… and idk how to fix that
Can you tell me what you did and in what order?
For some reason I don't have audio in this video. My theory is the audio was set to mono and one of my speaker doesn't work ( always set to stereo folks)
Ya this was an error in my editing skills. Im sure I messed something up n didnt realize it as I only had one earbud in while editing so I can pay attention to the family at the same time.
I remember when I first noticed I I thought youtube had removed all my audio!
Explanation too good now I'm missing a part of my finger
Oh goodness, well I can sympathize as Ive been there many times before.
A slice resistant glove will help protect your hands!
@@CarvingisFun I had some when I first started carving but I left them out once and my dog got to them so I haven't worn them in a long while and been fine. Until now
🥰🥰
👍👍👍👍🍺😎