Shoulder Seam Solution
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2020
- In todays tip clip Gail answers the burning question: How do you close the shoulder seam after you’ve used the double fold bias binder? And how do you make it look nice so the binding aligns, the coverstitching matches up, and without a lumpy or bumpy seam? To achieve flat, smooth and aligned shoulder seam edges, watch this video! Comment below with your questions and/or suggestions.
References mentioned:
Double Fold Bias/Kit Binder: • The Double Fold Knit/B...
Woven Stay Tape: bit.ly/3nt4M91
SSI Knit Stay Tape: bit.ly/3kEImzt
Thank you for watching! Be sure to SUBSCRIBE to my channel so you don't miss a stitch.
Happy Sewing & Serging!! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you so much for this video and the one about how to use the double fold knit binder! I am sensitive to seam edges on rtw and really wasn’t sure I would like the attachment but so many people recommended it when I bought a baby lock Euphoria that I decided to try it. Without this video I think I would have regretted buying the binder but I used your tips and am really pleased with the results!
Hi Susan, It makes me happy to read a comment like yours-thank you! Please let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help you. Have a lovely holiday season and thanks for watching!
Hi Gail - great video! - I think you are the only person to cover this issue and how to use the cover stitch binder so thoroughly - I’m in the UK and have put the question about joining the shoulder band after using the machine to various UK bloggers and have yet to receive a reply so I’m very grateful to you! - kind regards Pauline x
Hi Pauline, what a nice message-thank you. Glad the video is helpful and let me know if you have any other questions. Hope all is well in the UK! Thanks for watching.
Everything ok in the UK apart from weather (rain!) and politics! - hence my husband can fall asleep on the sofa with dogs whilst I disappear to the sewing room! 👌- take care 😁 xx
@@craftyvirgo That sounds like my world!
Thank you Gail!! A step closer to perfection for me!!
TheLouisvilleLady Glad I can help and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Gail you are like the new Nancy ! So much help and helping us not to be afraid to try new things thank u 🙏 for all your work
Such a nice compliment-thanks Krystle!
Excellent tips! As always, I learn so much from you.
Glad to be of service and thank you for watching!
Thanks. Good info to have in my sewing arsenal.
Thanks for watching, Lynn!
Great tutorials and tips all times from you, thank you verry much and greetings from Germany
Guten tag, Dagmar and thanks for watching!
Great tip, thank you so much. I can use this tip for other items where I need to match up the seams accurately. I had forgotten about Wonder Stay Tape!
Thanks Shamin. Glad you found the Tip Clip helpful!
Brilliant idea using double stick tape. Thank you.
And it's so easy too! Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips Kathleen!
Now I have to dig in my stash to see if I have decades-old Wonder Tape. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
If you can't find it, you can always buy another roll. It's such a great product. Thanks for watching!
thank you thank you thank you ! I asked for this tip and you did it! wow! learned so much!
I'm glad you did ask for it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you Gail for another fabulous tip! Love this method for bias binding on wovens as well - I've just never thought to use wonder tape to hold it in place before sewing! Brilliant :)
Wonder Tape is wonderful for so many applications. It makes accuracy in positioning seams, trims, zippers, etc. easy and makes my sewing better! Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much. I have sewn, resewn countless times to get that neck edge perfect. What a great solution!
david charles Glad you like it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I will definitely have to try this on my next neckline!
Let me know your results Rene and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Very informative. Your video skills are very good. Love the close up views.
Thanks Angie. I appreciate your comments. I try very hard to get the best camera angles so that each step is understandable. Send along any questions and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Thanks for the great tip.
You’re welcome and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips. BTW, I’ll be teaching serger classes at the Houston Quilt Festival if you’re in that neighborhood in October!
This is the first video of yours I’ve watched and I’ve subscribed. As a beginner, I really appreciate the thorough explanation and the product details. Wonderful video! I can’t wait to try this method. Thanks!
Hi Cindy,
thanks for subscribing and if you have questions as you watch the Tip Clips, be sure to post them and I'll answer as quickly as possible.. Happy 4th of July weekend!
Love this method
Glad you like it, Betty and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Thank you for another great tip. I don’t have one those great clappers....just a piece of wood and a hammer, pounding that seam really is the key after you get it all matched up!
Your wood and hammer should work just fine. Did Dr. Lynn put his artistic touches on the wood? Thanks for watching!
Cool print you're wearing!
Thanks for watching!
That is so helpful.
Glad the video is helpful, Blair and thanks for watching. Let me know if you have more questions-happy to help!
Just recently purchased a Coverstitch machine and binder attachment. I remembered watching your shoulder seam solution tip a while ago. I tried it out today on a knit dress I’m making for my Granddaughter. I can’t believe how beautifully it worked, the neckline and the armhole seam coverstitches lined up perfectly. I’m so delighted, this tip is a game changer! 😅
Hi Christine, Thanks for letting me know that this technique gave you successful results and for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Thanks! I’m definitely going to join my shoulder seams like this now. Sometimes mine matched up and sometimes they didn’t.
Linda Smalley let me know how you do and thanks for watching!
so helpful thanks Gayle Clason
Hi Gayle, Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips and tell your sewing friends about it. Happy New Year and stay safe and well!
TY
YW
Another fantastic tutorial, many thanks. A few of my knit patterns have 1/4 “ seam allowance do you think it would work if I added another 1/4 “ so I have a 1/2” SA to make the finished shoulder seam the same as the one you demonstrated.
Eileen McCallum HiEileen, Yes it will work and the 1/2” seam allowance will lay flat and smooth when pressed. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Thanks for the video. I now need to sort out when to use my regular machine vs. coverstitch vs. serger and the various stay tapes (knit vs. woven.)
Hi Cindy, I always use woven stay tape on the shoulder seam on both knit and woven fabrics. The shoulder seam won’t “grow” with that support.thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Knit stay tape is perfect for curved areas (necklines, armholes, etc.)
@@GailPatriceDesign Thanks! I am sewing mainly knit baby clothes and some adult athletic tops. I use both stay tape and wonder tape. I think my wonder tape stash is still from the old "Stretch'n Sew" class days. Just got my Euphoria last week. Still learning when to use it vs. my serger for sewing in elastic or doing bindings and learning the differential settings for both. Before this I did it on my regular machine.
@@cindyw8292 The Euphoria is a wonderful coverstitch machine. It's not difficult to master a dedicated machine as there's no conversion involved. Let me know if you have questions or need help!
@@GailPatriceDesign Thanks, I did my research and knew this was the machine I wanted. I have a 30+ year old Elna pro 5 serger that has always been a beast to thread. The control panel no longer works so I basically was always a 3 stitch overlock with no control. After a couple days threading the Euphoria I got the Acclaim too. I want a totally dedicated machine. The sewing machine store staff are quilters. They don't construct garments and it seems my questions have been beyond their knowledge like....coverstitching in the round. I would like to perfect sewing elastic onto kid's waistbands so I need to master the ratios I get with the differential. Also need to figure out how much stretch I am getting say when I am constructing a onesie that has binding on all raw edges as it is the crossover and snap in front type of onesie. The Acclaim was a floor model and it is extremely clunky sounding. I am not sure if this is the way it is to be. I was packed up and on my way to the store which is a bit of a drive only to get a call saying the feet I wanted had not arrived. No sense going in if I don't have the feet to play with and learn.
I had no idea this was the professional way to attach the neck binding! It certainly looks better than a seam in the back. Gail, do you use a 3.0 straight or knit stitch for the shoulder seam? Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth, I use a 3.0 straight stitch for the shoulder seam. The woven stay tape keeps the seam stable without any stretching. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Thank you for the tip and I agree Wonder Tape is amazing stuff. I am loving my L890, but have been unable to purchase the binder as yet, it's out of stock in the UK. However, I normally serge my neckbands on in the rounds and am wondering if there is a real advantage in purchasing the binder, which isn't cheap. I am open to being convinced :-)
Hi Bren, So happy to hear that you love your L890. It's such a fantastic machine and a pleasure to use. I'm still amazed at how quiet and smooth it is. How you finish a neckline is personal preference. If you get good results stitching binding in the round, that's an excellent method. The binder attachment is easy to learn. It takes a little practice but certainly isn't difficult. Plus the swivel feature makes inserting the binding strip super easy. And it can be used on all types of projects, not just garments. If it's out of stock right now, you have time to think about purchasing it but I would definitely give it a "thumbs up!" Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you so much for sharing this tip. I was struggling with this area on my recent t shirt trial. I noticed you recommend using a straight stitch 3 inches in length. What needle do you suggest? I am having trouble with my knit fabric seams getting stuck under the foot or not moving forward when I sew.
Hi Maureen, glad the Tip was helpful. The needle type depends on the fabric. If your stitch formation looks good with any needle, stretch needle or EL x705 then that is the correct type to use. If your fabric isn’t moving forward, maybe your stitch length is too short or lift the toe of the foot to help the fabric get going under the foot. Let me know if you need more help and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Thank you for such a wonderful video. I’m now a subscriber! I’m confused why you used the “woven” stay tape on the shoulder seams when your fabric is a knit. I think you used a knit stay tape on the neck piece prior to putting it through the binder. Just wondered if you’ve done a video that uncovers what tape is used for each application. I now have both products you used but just need more understanding. Thanks again for giving us such useful tools to learn.
Hi Jeanie, excellent question. Woven stay tape keeps the shoulder seam from stretching and because it’s a straight seam, woven works well. Knit stay tape will contour nicely around curves (necklines, etc.) and in a pinch will help shoulder seams. But because there is more flexibility in knit stay tape, it isn’t as stable as woven. Over time when a knit top is on a hanger, the shoulder seams can “grow” and droop when worn. Woven tape will prevent stretching. Let me know if you have more questions and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
You mentioned that you used the 15 mm double fold binder. Is that binder available for the Bernina L890? The double fold binder attachment I have says it's for 36 mm binding. Thank you for your videos. I never thought I would like the binder attachment, but after watching your videos I use it all the time.
Hi Sue, As of right now, just the 36mm binder is available for the L890. I'm hoping that there will be a couple more sizes available in the future, but haven't heard anything yet. You know I'll do a Tip Clip if there are new sizes to show. The binder attachment is fantastic and surprisingly easy to master with a bit of practice. Sounds like you have the technique figured out. Thanks for watching!
great tips i would also like to know how to bind a vee neck
I created a “vanishing binding” technique as part of my Triangulate the Tee pattern that has a V-neck. Fold the neckline raw edge under 1/4” and baste. Cut the binding strip approx. 2” wide. Fold wrong sides together and serge raw edges together. (Give yourself a little extra length on the binding strip.) Baste binding to the neckline exposing as much width as you prefer and taper it to “vanish” at the V. Stitch in place on your sewing machine. Super easy and excellent results. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
hi, you have, such informative videos thank you. where do Buy the serger binder you use? just want to buy from you if I can
Hi Dawn, You can purchase the double-fold knit/bias binder from a Babylock dealer. I don't sell any feet or attachments for machines. Thanks for watching!
@@GailPatriceDesign thank you.
I was wondering if you think the neckline would be more symmetrical and balanced if you did the neckband in two halves and had 2 joins on the shoulders rather then just 1?
Hi Macstronomy, it’s a matter of preference. Ready-to-wear necklines have 1 join and that’s my method as well. The drawback to 2 joins is added bulk but if you like that look better, then definitely do it that way. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
Hello, thank you for the video! Why not make a circular binding and attach after sewing both shoulder seams? I haven't tried it either way, and I don't have a serger. Is this just a way to do it using a serger, or is it easier or nicer to finish the neck this way?
You can do the binding on a closed neckline on a sewing machine just as you described. But when using a binder attachment on a serger, one shoulder seam needs to stay open while attaching the binding. Both methods are lovely finishes. It's your choice!. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
@@GailPatriceDesign Hi, again! Thanks for answering so quickly; I really didn't know if you would see it given that you posted this a while back. Now I really feel like sewing!
@@anne-marie8018 I received notification of questions from all Tip Clips no matter how long ago they were posted. Let me know if I can help you with anything! Glad your sewing mojo is amped up too!
Actual solution promised by the video title starts at around 8:50.
Hola recién descubrí sus videos ojalá pudiera traducirlos a español quizá tampoco sepa español usted gracias
Definitely love Wonder Tape but I have a suggestion instead of having to hand sew to tack the bias tape down at the shoulders just use that product called Lite Steam-a-seam. it works similar to Wondertape but when you actually apply the iron then it becomes permanent. Great stuff
dcwatashi thanks. There are many ways to get a great result and Lite Steam-a-Seam is a good product to hold the seam allowances in place (especially if someone doesn’t like to hand sew. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching Serger Tip Clips!
@@GailPatriceDesign I would like to know how in the world you were able to get a haircut during this time 🤔😂🤣💇
@@dcwatashi Believe it or not, I snipped away in the areas I could see and reach. Then I asked my husband to cut the back as I directed. (I think he was more nervous than I was.) Almost nobody was going to see me anyway, so if I made a big booboo, it would grow eventually.;-) Now hair salons are open with guidelines in CT, so my last haircut was done by someone who knew what she was doing. And believe it or not, she didn't scream in horror when she looked at my tonsorial artistry.
@@GailPatriceDesign I better make an appointment soon mine is so long it's disgusting plus winter times coming and I feel there will be a second wave of this pandemic get everything done now
What size of binder did you use for the cream binding? 8 or 12 mm
The cream color binding is 10mm. That width is the width typically seen on many ready-to-wear garments. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!
I can’t seem to get my serger over the shoulder seam. I used the 10mm binder on some lightweight merino wool knit. I changed my foot to a clear one from the regular. Are there some knits that are just too thick?
Hi Michelle,
Did you use merino wool for the binding also? If so, try to find a lighter weight fabric that coordinates well with your merino knit fabric. You're right about it being too thick and dense. The clear presser foot is great for added visibility but doesn't have the same "gripping" power as a metal foot. And It's better to stitch the seam on your sewing machine for it to lay flat when the seam allowances are pressed open. The other alternative for thicker binding is to use the single fold binder which eliminates a couple of layers when the shoulder seam is joined. Keep me posted and if you need a phone consultation, let me know. Thanks!
@@GailPatriceDesign Thanks Gail, I did use the same merino fabric to bind the neckline/armholes. I’ll have to try some of your alternatives. I love your craftsy classes and now I’m loving your TH-cam channel 👌🏻☺️
@@imperialmaker Let me know your results and if you need a consultation-thanks,
@@imperialmaker did you try switching to the standard or cover/chainstitch foot? Both are metal and might grip the fabric.
My t shirt has a center back seam with a button loop closure. Would it make sense for me to leave open center back seam instead of shoulder and use the excess binding on one side to make the loop for the button? I assume I would need to use narrow binding to do this. And how would I terminate the button side binding for neat finish?
Hi, Yes, use the center back seam as your open seam. I would start and finish with an extra 1/4" - 1/2" of the binding strip from the edges. Probably 1/4" is enough to fold under even with the T-shirt open edge and either handstitch or machine stitch in place. For the loop closure, you could leave a longer strip and form a loop and stitch the raw end into the binding. But it might look bulky. I would make a skinnier loop and before stitching the binding end, tuck the loop into it then stitch. Let me know if that's clear or if you have more questions and thanks for watching!
Thank you, Gail. Thats very clear!@GailPatriceDesign
@@msmonet Great! Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!
I clicked on show more, but just the video comes up. How do I buy the binder?
See the previous answer-thanks!